Given the Horn by a Unicorn, and a Tinkers Curse

Summer of 1982 Bernard Newman editor of “Climbing” one of the UK’s most popular climbing magazines is working on a book for the series started by Ken Wilson with “Hard Rock”. Hard Rock was followed by “Classic Rock” and now soon to be “Extreme Rock.” Bernard and Janine, his wife were good friends of Ed and Cynthia Grindley who were by now married and living in Glencoe Village where Cynthia was district nurse.

I had first met Ed Grindley about 1975 when he was working for Glencoe School of Winter Mountaineering and staying at Tigh Dearg Ian and Nicky Cloughs house in Glencoe Village. Summertime he was back in Bannockburn just outside Stirling where he and Cynthia lived for a time. We had a few adventures climbing and on winter rescues back then, and he liked to party. As a Lakeland climber of some note Ed was established as one of the best rock climbers of the time. His organised approach to gear preparation and training had quite a significant impact on me. Pre “Friends” from Wild country, nuts were the thing for protection, and he would have two full sets. Chouinard “Stoppers” 1-10 in full sizes on one side and 1-10 in half sizes on the other. Also epoxying the wires into the end so they could be fangled in without the wire pushing through. These and sets of hex’s for camming. I can remember him gluing thicker pieces of canvas to the heels of his EB’s to give more edge support and squeaking his soles for maximum grip and being taken by the thoroughness.

One of my earliest climbing trips away with Ed was in 1976 and involved going to Wales via Aviemore to do the “Needle” on Shelterstone also with Bill Amos. Its was hellish windy and Bill and I set off up the chairlift to the top with the ropes while Ed faffed about at his van. We got to the top to be told the chair was closing due to the wind. Having no idea if Ed was on the chair and no sight of anyone else on the chair looking back down the line we pleaded to get back to the bottom. Only to get halfway down meeting Ed on the way up having pled his case. Thankfully he was allowed to come back down with the lifty at the top on the last run. The lifty being John MacLean of the Creag Dubh. A bit of an inauspicious start to a day’s climbing, so we decided to go into Newtonmore for a few pints. After a few we headed down to Dunkeld and soloed a few routes such as Ivy Crack, Poison Ivy. I still had on my big “Lionel Terray “Fitzroy” boots. A few more beers in Dunkeld then a night on the floor at Banockburn. Next day down to Llanberis to stay at the Fell and Rock hut at Yns Ettws and a week in baking hot sunshine, drought, and pubs with no beer. I first met Rab Carrington there and many well know characters of the day and played darts with Joe Brown and Don Whillans. I thought I could do Cenotaph Cotner in boots but couldn’t. Cloggy is too good not to be in Scotland. Ronnie Rodger and I had another trip to Wales with Ed and Cynthia on their honeymoon but that’s another tale.

Ivy Crack in big boots 

Stob Coire nan Lochan isn’t Cloggy, but it does have some very good routes, two of which were to feature in the new book. “Scansor” Tut Braithwaite’s route had received a second ascent by Paul Nunn and Ian Nicholson (I think). Unicorn, Jimmy Marshalls route, had about half a dozen ascents. Both routes due to lack of traffic still had some loose stuff, especially at the top.

We arrived at the “Pipers Lay Bye” the upper car park for Stob Coire nan Lochan. So called as back then a certain Mr MacPhee in full regalia including bearskin hat would ply his trade with his bagpipes there. Play might be too kind a word, but he plied his skirl to advantageous effect. He had a wee table set out with a bowl for donations and to sell some lucky white heather, and either his wife or daughter would be about in their old van. Ed and I travelled up together ahead of the others. At that time he had a bright orange RS Cosworth Ford Escort. He thought it might be a laugh to go a bit fast and handbrake stop just before the piper. On reflection it could have gone even more badly than it did as although he stopped in time, the piper MacPhee on diving for cover had gone over the bank. On going to help him back up and to apologize we were on the receiving end of much cursing and swearing. He appeared unharmed apart from his attire being all over the place. We grabbed our kit to get away and MacPhee hurled a “Buidseachd” or curse at us in Gaelic, shouting, “one of you will not come back here today.”

A great start to the day. Ed, Me, Cynthia, Bernard and Janine slogged up the grinding path which back then hadn’t been made into the climbers superhighway it is now. Always a grind with ropes and a heavy rucksack and the steps don’t make that any less.

Scansor was the first route with Ed leading the crux and Cynthia and I following. Ed was taking some pictures with a compact camera and Bernard had an SLR on a tripod in the Corrie. Scansor was a bit mossy and the technical crux overlooking SC gully airy but ok. The rest of the route was a bit broken and loose. Not a great route, but ok if you’re up there anyway. Along we went and then back down forked gully searching for winter gear dropped by others and got some swag. Then it was onto Unicorn for Ed and me. I led up and belayed in the corner avoiding the normal belay to try and do it in three pitches. Then Ed led through on our twin 150ft ropes. He was high in the corner near the end when I heard him shout and looked up to see three big slabs of rock heading down the corner towards me. I had no helmet on, and nowhere to go. One big bit missed my head and bounced off the side of my shoulder chopping a belay sling, one was in space, but the other passed down my chest hitting my ankle and then off down to the Corrie. A smaller bit gave me a scalp wound. My shoulder was badly bruised and cut but not broken I didn’t think, but my ankle was really sore and already swelling. Ed went into self-rescue mode, but I thought it easier to finish if I could. Surprisingly, and with the adrenaline fix of nearly getting taken out I was able to climb up then hobble back down forked gully. Bernard had one hellish fright watching this unfold through his camera lens and was a bit shaken up. With the size of the rocks he thought I had no chance. It was just sheer luck I didn’t get one square on the head although a small one gave me a scalp wound which bled into my thick dark hair. I doubt a helmet would have helped if it was one of the big ones but I was fortunate with the small one. I have seen too many brain injuries now not to know the consequences. I made my way slowly down to the car. The piper was gone by the time we had made it back to the road thank goodness.

We went back to Ed’s as I had arranged for Fiona to meet us there and to take me back to Duror. She was already in Ed's house waiting when he went in ahead and said, “I nearly killed your husband today.” Bernard got his pictures and story, and Extreme rock was a considerable success with our climbs in it, although not the full story which Ed published a couple of years later in Climber magazine pipers curse included. While Unicorn is a great route and Scansor ok they were curious choices for the book in my opinion. I understood that some of the classics like Shibboleth had been covered in Hard Rock, but I think Ed’s own route “The Clearances” or Pete Whillance’s “The Risk Business” would have been better choices to represent the grade jump early 1980’s and they are routes of a higher quality than Scansor. Unicorn while an outstanding outing is more old school and would have been a better Hard Rock contender than Swastika - IMHO

Extreme rock only had one print run as a fire destroyed all the typeset and so it was never re printed. It now commands a remarkably high price among climbing book collectors. When skint, fed up and wanting to walk away from climbing after another friend was killed, I sold my free copy. Ed, Bernard and Janine had signed it. I got £375 for it in 2007 as I also included this tale you are reading now.  I put the money towards a road bike. I regret that. I also regret the 200 or more 35mm rescue slides I threw out when I left MR thinking that was a door closed. Fortunately some had doubles or almost as good other takes.

I had a big swollen ankle after Unicorn and struggled to walk for a few weeks after. I didn’t think it was worth going to hospital. Some years later I broke my ankle on a rescue after being thrown off a 4x4 vehicle, on reading the X Ray a doctor came to me and said I see this isn’t your first ankle fracture as you have a healed one that’s showing on the malleolus. I looked at its position on the film and the penny dropped that I had climbed an E15b with a broken ankle and then walked to the road. Ed later did an article for Climber magazine “Curse in the Corrie” about our day. I am referred to as the boy (I was 25) and needing quietened down which is partly true, although it was cursing with pain and anger "are you trying to fucking kill me Grindley!)

We climbed a lot together in the early 1980’s and did some new routes in Glen Nevis. Ed introduced a lot of young folk to climbing as a teacher at Lochaber High School. His legacy of climbs extends from the Southwest of England to hard Lakeland routes such as “Fallen Angel” which is still a pokey hard E4, Glencoe’s “Clearances”, Sky’s Neist Point “Supercharger” and a host of others in Glen Nevis.

An Adventure in "The Gully" with the Fox

Twas in the Clachaig gully that young Murray rose to fame

On the slabs of the Great Cave Pitch

Where other men had failed his experience prevailed

And he crossed that fateful ditch -

On the Wall of Jericho, they shouted "Will it go"?

As he hung on hair trigger hold

He answered not a word and rose like a bird

Through the mud and the slime and the cold

           Tom Patey "The Ballad of Bill Murray"

Clachaig Gully with the Fox

I got some new boots from the rescue team. My old ones were left in the porch at the front entrance of Kingshouse after helping out on a winter rescue from Ravens Gully where sadly a young lad died. The victim was 17 and so was I.  Someone left one of my size eights and one of theirs size ten. Despite asking Jim Lees the owner and manager to ask around and waiting a few months the boot never turned up so Hamish had a pair of new ones sent up from George Fishers in Keswick. In between times I was on old worn out “Super Pros” that were bald and leaky and had toe caps stuck on with evo stick to cover the holes. The new boots that arrived were Lionel Terray “Fitzroy” which like the Galibier “SuperPro” were the winter climbers and alpinists boot of choice at that time. Heavy full leather, metal shank they took a bit of breaking in so off I went up the Pap of Glencoe in them one Saturday. The Pap wasn’t a popular hike back then. It was a rite of passage for local teens getting to the top, just to say they had done it but other than that you rarely saw anyone going up. The Pap has been a good training route for me over the years, both hiking it and running it many times once as a bet to the top and back to the church in Glencoe in under an hour. Even winter climbing it once up its North side on rock hard neve and ice up and over rock steps at about grade II/III with a stunning outlook for a smaller hill surrounded by giants.

The day of the new boots was a bit overcast but dry, and the up and down went quickly meeting no one else on the way. You would be hard pushed to find it that way now as it’s so popular. I was walking back down the road to the village and see Sandy Whellans a local police sergeant coming toward me in his van. He stops and suggests I jump in as there is someone injured in the Gully. Clachaig Gully was more simply known as “the Gully” to us. Not because there are no other gullies as there are plenty around Glencoe and Glen Etive such as the Buachaille Chasm, Dalness Chasm, and others but it was by far the most popular. “The Gully” has a lost world feel to it. Deep, gloomy, wet sometimes, although a heat trap in direct sun, and above the climber the walls hang with vegetation and loose tree lined rock, on vertical or overhanging deep side walls. The Gully is about 37 pitches in all with only 4 of real note. The Great Cave, The Ramp, Jericho Wall, and the Red Chimney. Jericho Wall and the Red Chimney are above the tree line. Jericho Wall so named as the walls of the gully are only 5 meters apart at this point and the pitch goes up the right (East) wall. W.H Murray likened Clachaig Gully to a “Monstrous beauty like the hindquarters of an Elephant” quoting Elroy Flecker. His first ascent with Marskell, MacAlpine and Dunn made famous in his classic book Mountaineering in Scotland. I grant you I was young, but I already had notched up a few harder climbs, had epics, been on a few rescues and been rescued myself. I could handle myself and was strong.

The lower gully pitches are short and escape easier but have nippy little bits for the unwary or those not used to climbing in boots. One pitch of note had disappeared after rock fall. Before this it was a bridge up using the gully sides below a short waterfall which could be dammed up and then burst to soak the second as a bit of fun.  It’s a short hard bouldery move to get over now. I did it just after the rock fall and reaching over the top felt a latex glove which was mine from a fatal accident two months earlier. The casualty on that occasion was climbing second on the rope several pitches past the Great Cave when his friend knocked off a large rock. This struck the casualty on the rucksack and hit an aluminium water bottle that broke ribs and punctured his lung causing a condition called a pneumothorax. Even though we were very quick to get there, by the time we had been called out, run up and abseiled in it had gone into tension, a serious and immediately life-threatening condition. Despite resuscitation efforts and advanced life support he did not survive. Those that deal with these medical emergencies know that a lot of kit gets left around, and even though you try and tidy up on the rocky bed of a gully stuff gets missed especially in the dark so that’s the gloves litter explained.

A Rescue in Lower Clachaig Gully

Several parties would climb the gully of a weekend back then. As a result it was well visited by the rescue team. An average roped time for the entire gully would be about 5 hours although one ascent for a party of four took two days. Hauling stuck folk out was a common event, but also sadly some nasty accidents and fatalities. Back then the gully was graded Hard Severe. It’s been soloed by many including my late wife Fiona with Cynthia Grindley, but back then when this story took place I had not met her.

I jump in the van with Sandy, and we park up at Clachaig where Hamish is waiting for the old green ex-army rescue truck to arrive. Huan Findlay is bringing it from the Elliots. Sandy mentions that someone has called the police worried as they have friends doing the Aonach Eagach and should have come back but have not. We meet up with the fellow who reported the gully accident. He had abseiled “The Great Cave” pitch leaving a fixed rope, then come out an escape route path on the West side and down to the hotel to phone for help. His friend had fallen off “The Ramp” pitch (crux), the technical crux of the gully (4b/c) and with no runners had fallen about 50ft onto the rocks at the top of the Great Cave.

Hamish and I set off up the path to the exit point of the escape path then scramble down into the gully. Hamish has some technical gear, a radio and first aid and I have nothing. We climb the Great Cave pitch solo. It’s not a hard pitch and goes up to a tree, then a step down, and a move across to a short corner then up to the ledge where the casualty is lying. The poor fellow is struggling when we arrive. He has a broken jaw, wrist and chest injury and scalp wounds but is conscious. And in pain.

Opiates for chest injuries can be controversial as they can depress the respiratory drive. However, if the casualty is in so much pain they can’t breathe and there is no sign of a lung injury like a pneumothorax then it’s a good thing to alleviate the pain. Hamish rummages about in his wee red stuff sack with the first aid kit and hands me a syrette of “Omnopom” which is an opiate like morphine. I inject it into the back of the casualties’ hand and then we bandage him up the best we can.

Sandy radios Hamish to say he is organising a helicopter to look for the folk on the Aonach Eagach and to help us out,  and also a new report has come in that shouts are being heard coming from around Ossians Cave. The helicopter was coming from 202 squadron then based at Lossiemouth and getting one was much less easy than now.

The rescue truck arrived as a base station and folks are asked to bring up a stretcher, casualty bag and a long static rope. Eventually this arrives in the gully below us and we use the rope left in place to get the static line attached to pull up to us with a big sling to make me a harness and a fig 8 descender for me. Hamish spies a good strong Rowan tree 15ft above us and takes the static line up and ties it to the spindly but apparently well rooted tree. We pull up the stretcher and casualty bag having also asked for another rope to be tied onto the foot end of the stretcher. The stretcher is hauled up and between us we get the casualty onto the stretcher after a lot of humping groaning and pain. Challenging work for just two of us and painful despite the analgesic for the casualty. Hamish gets out two swing cheek pulleys he’s made in his workshop. Rustic but functional pre Petzl he also had his own design rope jammers. We rig the stretcher with tape slings as the Mk 3/4 didn’t have wire strops pre fitted, we then put the pulleys on the static line and clip them to the top and bottom stretcher tapes and connect up our climbing rope as a back rope to the stretcher on a belay. Then get the bottom end of the static line taken up and out onto the path to the West side of the gully, where there is a group of rescuers. We ask them to tug of war the static rope tight and lock it off on a belay. The static rope is angled down so the end is much lower than us. This rope tension lifts the stretcher airborne above us and clear of all obstacles and we then lower it with our rope. Someone below grabs the rope at the feet end of the stretcher which hangs to below the pitch and walks it out of the gully, joins another rope on and pulling it as required to coax the stretcher out onto the West side. It goes well sky lining across the width of the gully airborne until our rope runs out, but the stretcher is almost there and has a good landing at the side. Its then carried over the short distance to the path and a flatter spot. A couple of hours have passed but timing was perfect as the helicopter arrived and flew up to where the stretcher was waiting. The “Whirlwind” only had a 60ft winch wire so not a lot of capability and certainly would not be able to winch from the gully. The “Wessex” from 137 Leuchars which replaced it a couple of years later had a 300ft winch and twin free gas turbine jet engines and could at a push take up to sixteen people although not in its SAR role where 7 plus crew was a load. The Wessex changed mountain rescue completely and RAF Leuchars SAR crews and MRT were all good friends.

Fiona Gunn in Clachaig Gully

The casualty is picked up and flown away to hospital. Hamish and I have to abseil off on the abandoned rope doubled and placed over a rock spike pulled down after us then get out onto the path and head down. 25 minutes later we are at the base vehicle to be told Sandy is up on the ridge on his own and has found the missing folk and guiding them down. We go up with the binoculars to see if anything is visible at Ossian's Cave. Sure enough there is a group of about 7 people, and they are waving an orange bivi bag. We ask for the helicopter to return, and it does so lifting up a couple of team members and winching them down near Ossian's Cave. One casualty with a broken leg is winched up quickly, and then the rest of the group guided back down to the bottom. There is a particularly good picture of the Pilot John Stirling landing on the A82 to pick up team members. A busy day. As we were near an excellent pub we made the most of what was left of the day and quite a lot of the night refreshing ourselves.

The Wessex last job before being replaced with the "Sea King" April 1993