Wednesday, 22 July 2020


Charnuis Boulders North Ballachulish

Park at the forest road entrance at the top of Mausoleum Hill NN 07235 59884. Follow the forest road up to a junction then go left (west) until another forwarder track goes up. Go up this then bear left up to the bouldering keeping a whaleback boulder on your right, to the obvious blocks at NN 07029 60123. You can take another track if you go too far down the other side crossing a big fallen oak. The first block is “Two Stump Block”

These rocks are a bit unique being a pumice like Leven Schist with similarities to Limestone having pockets. Good rough rock and excellent friction, the area faces South and is a sun trap so all year round is good and many routes stay dry even when raining. Also catches a breeze which makes it relatively midge free which in summer Lochaber is a bonus.  Plenty scope above the boulders for the adventurous as the crags up above are a good bit bigger than they look. Duncan, Fiona and Davy Gunn 2020

Whaleback Boulder. Climb the front face up to a big jug 5 (V0+) A bit of approach fun if climbed direct.
The crucial letter box hold visible next to Duncans' backside on "Two Stump Wall" and you also get an idea of the pocketed nature of the Leven Schist and that the boulder is quite big. Bouldering mats recommended.
Two Stump Slab. Above the two obvious standing stumps

Two Stump Wall. Take the steep wall nearer its left side moving up and out to the left edge and an obvious slot. Continue more easily up the edge 6a+ (V3) ***

Stumped. From the wall center go up to a good edge, move up and back left to join the above route 6a (V3) ***

Pocket Rocket. Step off the pointed rock left of the undercut crack onto the steep slab and move directly up 6a+ (V3) **

Right edge crack. Use the obvious under cling and careful feet to the obvious niche avoiding the temptation to cheat SS 6a (V2)
Two Stump Block

The Block. Above and Right

Short Haul. On the right facing East is an obvious big ledge. A stiff pull up and rock over to top 5 (V1)
Short Haul

Pocket Wall.
Just above the Block is an obvious and attractive pocketed slab
Take the center of the steep wall on good crimpy holds up the steep slab above 6a+ (V3) the best route here ***

SS variation. Start low on the left moving across to a down facing nose then up and onto the slab above 6b (V4) **
Pocket Wall
The Bow. Just across and up is an obvious prow with a distinctive profile

Keelhaul. The obvious edge of the Bow with a bad landing, even with a mat. 6C (V5)