Thursday, 15 December 2022

Avalanche Victim Recovery Considerations Part 2

 Davy Gunn American Avalanche Association Pro Member, FIPS Avalanche Working Group and UK Recco Trainer

Learning to dig as a team
Students on an Avy Level 1 course at Glencoe Mountain

      The definitive locating device is a transceiver. Carry one that's digital and has 3 antennas. And with charged batteries. New ones like the Diract Voice are good

      The definitive location device is a probe. Carry one that's at least 240cm, preferably 270cm+ The Carbon 280+ pfa is a good one

      The definitive airway device is a shovel. Carry one that's alu, has a good blade and can convert to a hoe if possible.  Ortovox Pro alu III is a good one

      RECCO might not save your life but might save a rescuers as being searchable reduces time on scene and exposure to secondary avalanche. Given the longest Scottish survival is 27 hours it might also save your life. Be Searchable

      Digging out a victim you should attempt to dig in toward the victims chest and head from the side, not above so as not to compress any air pocket. Dig in from below approximately the same distance down showing on your probe mark. If possible have more than one probe in place.

      Take care when uncovering the mouth and nose and have an experienced avalanche rescuer assess Airway of the ABC's. If  your not experienced class it as open. Clear it of debris. Expose the chest and begin CPR as soon as is practicable. Data suggests starting CPR before complete extrication (if possible ) improves outcomes. Its also hard work so get other climbers and skiers on board to take turns if they offer help.

      Avalanche Victims may have Trauma, they will also be Hypothermic. So all buried avalanche victims should have further heat loss prevented. Trauma and Hypothermia plus blood loss (contributing to Hypothermia) is a lethal triad.

      Other victims in a multi burial may be very nearby, or under the first recovered victim. If many victims are buried some may survive for a very very long period due to air spaces among other bodies. A salad of transceiver distances can be confusing. Get as many probes in to make contacts as you can.

      Multiple burials are resource hungry, messy, require leadership and discipline. Fail to practice these scenarios and its a shitstorm. Spread limited resources too wide and everyone might die. If limited person power get the first located victim out first and fast before moving on. You might at least save one.

Note: Pulse and Breathing may be very hard to detect. Not finding these vital signs does not mean that they are not present. You just may not be able to detect them. Many cases of survival are documented where CPR had been continuous for 5+ hours. Make it good CPR

If you start resuscitation, regardless of how long a victim had been under, you do not cease unless rescuers' lives are in danger or the decision is arrived at from a consensus of experienced avalanche rescuers and medical consensus that it's futile.

Chest compression's may be interrupted for a short time because of evacuation and rescue procedures but continuous unbroken CPR is the goal.

Do not swallow the myth that most Scottish avalanche victims die from trauma. Many undoubtedly do but we should focus on saving those that don't have catastrophic fatal injuries. There are no studies to prove the trauma myth, and plenty of stats from similar maritime snow packs where studies have been done to support that trauma isn't the only killer and only a smaller percentage. My own anecdotal experience is here: https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2016/12/triple-h-or-trauma-in-scottish.html

As a personal opinion this trauma fallacy could cost lives by giving the impression being searchable and companion rescue is a waste of time. Follow the international rescue commission guidance and you will not go wrong.

Important reading. Full Article:  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3080528/

Synopsis of Full article: https://earnyourturns.com/9079/avalanche-survival-time-reduced/

Prehospital core temperature measurement in a hostile environment will be unreliable. Unresponsive victims will often be about Swiss Staging HT3 level or more, and so Severely Hypothermic. Use the Swiss Staging scale to describe levels of hypothermia. Learn it. 

Final rescuer thoughts. Responsive survivors may not complain of injury as very cold, and unresponsive victims who maybe alive can be assumed to have occult trauma. Careful handling onto a vacuum matt immobilises the spine, closes the book of the pelvis, and prevents limb fractures from moving. A vac matt also provides good insulation. Better to use this as an SOP as its easy to miss an injury in an avalanche rescue and recovery

NO AVALANCHE OR HYPOTHERMIA VICTIM IS DEAD UNTIL THEY ARE WARM AND DEAD

Thursday, 24 November 2022

An Adventure in "The Gully" with the Fox

Twas in the Clachaig gully that young Murray rose to fame

On the slabs of the Great Cave Pitch

Where other men had failed his experience prevailed

And he crossed that fateful ditch -

On the Wall of Jericho, they shouted "Will it go"?

As he hung on hair trigger hold

He answered not a word and rose like a bird

Through the mud and the slime and the cold

           Tom Patey "The Ballad of Bill Murray"

Clachaig Gully with the Fox

I got some new boots from the rescue team. My old ones were left in the porch at the front entrance of Kingshouse after helping out on a winter rescue from Ravens Gully where sadly a young lad died. The victim was 17 and so was I.  Someone left one of my size eights and one of theirs size ten. Despite asking Jim Lees the owner and manager to ask around and waiting a few months the boot never turned up so Hamish had a pair of new ones sent up from George Fishers in Keswick. In between times I was on old worn out “Super Pros” that were bald and leaky and had toe caps stuck on with evo stick to cover the holes. The new boots that arrived were Lionel Terray “Fitzroy” which like the Galibier “SuperPro” were the winter climbers and alpinists boot of choice at that time. Heavy full leather, metal shank they took a bit of breaking in so off I went up the Pap of Glencoe in them one Saturday. The Pap wasn’t a popular hike back then. It was a rite of passage for local teens getting to the top, just to say they had done it but other than that you rarely saw anyone going up. The Pap has been a good training route for me over the years, both hiking it and running it many times once as a bet to the top and back to the church in Glencoe in under an hour. Even winter climbing it once up its North side on rock hard neve and ice up and over rock steps at about grade II/III with a stunning outlook for a smaller hill surrounded by giants.

The day of the new boots was a bit overcast but dry, and the up and down went quickly meeting no one else on the way. You would be hard pushed to find it that way now as it’s so popular. I was walking back down the road to the village and see Sandy Whellans a local police sergeant coming toward me in his van. He stops and suggests I jump in as there is someone injured in the Gully. Clachaig Gully was more simply known as “the Gully” to us. Not because there are no other gullies as there are plenty around Glencoe and Glen Etive such as the Buachaille Chasm, Dalness Chasm, and others but it was by far the most popular. “The Gully” has a lost world feel to it. Deep, gloomy, wet sometimes, although a heat trap in direct sun, and above the climber the walls hang with vegetation and loose tree lined rock, on vertical or overhanging deep side walls. The Gully is about 37 pitches in all with only 4 of real note. The Great Cave, The Ramp, Jericho Wall, and the Red Chimney. Jericho Wall and the Red Chimney are above the tree line. Jericho Wall so named as the walls of the gully are only 5 meters apart at this point and the pitch goes up the right (East) wall. W.H Murray likened Clachaig Gully to a “Monstrous beauty like the hindquarters of an Elephant” quoting Elroy Flecker. His first ascent with Marskell, MacAlpine and Dunn made famous in his classic book Mountaineering in Scotland. I grant you I was young, but I already had notched up a few harder climbs, had epics, been on a few rescues and been rescued myself. I could handle myself and was strong.

The lower gully pitches are short and escape easier but have nippy little bits for the unwary or those not used to climbing in boots. One pitch of note had disappeared after rock fall. Before this it was a bridge up using the gully sides below a short waterfall which could be dammed up and then burst to soak the second as a bit of fun.  It’s a short hard bouldery move to get over now. I did it just after the rock fall and reaching over the top felt a latex glove which was mine from a fatal accident two months earlier. The casualty on that occasion was climbing second on the rope several pitches past the Great Cave when his friend knocked off a large rock. This struck the casualty on the rucksack and hit an aluminium water bottle that broke ribs and punctured his lung causing a condition called a pneumothorax. Even though we were very quick to get there, by the time we had been called out, run up and abseiled in it had gone into tension, a serious and immediately life-threatening condition. Despite resuscitation efforts and advanced life support he did not survive. Those that deal with these medical emergencies know that a lot of kit gets left around, and even though you try and tidy up on the rocky bed of a gully stuff gets missed especially in the dark so that’s the gloves litter explained.

A Rescue in Lower Clachaig Gully

Several parties would climb the gully of a weekend back then. As a result it was well visited by the rescue team. An average roped time for the entire gully would be about 5 hours although one ascent for a party of four took two days. Hauling stuck folk out was a common event, but also sadly some nasty accidents and fatalities. Back then the gully was graded Hard Severe. It’s been soloed by many including my late wife Fiona with Cynthia Grindley, but back then when this story took place I had not met her.

I jump in the van with Sandy, and we park up at Clachaig where Hamish is waiting for the old green ex-army rescue truck to arrive. Huan Findlay is bringing it from the Elliots. Sandy mentions that someone has called the police worried as they have friends doing the Aonach Eagach and should have come back but have not. We meet up with the fellow who reported the gully accident. He had abseiled “The Great Cave” pitch leaving a fixed rope, then come out an escape route path on the West side and down to the hotel to phone for help. His friend had fallen off “The Ramp” pitch (crux), the technical crux of the gully (4b/c) and with no runners had fallen about 50ft onto the rocks at the top of the Great Cave.

Hamish and I set off up the path to the exit point of the escape path then scramble down into the gully. Hamish has some technical gear, a radio and first aid and I have nothing. We climb the Great Cave pitch solo. It’s not a hard pitch and goes up to a tree, then a step down, and a move across to a short corner then up to the ledge where the casualty is lying. The poor fellow is struggling when we arrive. He has a broken jaw, wrist and chest injury and scalp wounds but is conscious. And in pain.

Opiates for chest injuries can be controversial as they can depress the respiratory drive. However, if the casualty is in so much pain they can’t breathe and there is no sign of a lung injury like a pneumothorax then it’s a good thing to alleviate the pain. Hamish rummages about in his wee red stuff sack with the first aid kit and hands me a syrette of “Omnopom” which is an opiate like morphine. I inject it into the back of the casualties’ hand and then we bandage him up the best we can.

Sandy radios Hamish to say he is organising a helicopter to look for the folk on the Aonach Eagach and to help us out,  and also a new report has come in that shouts are being heard coming from around Ossians Cave. The helicopter was coming from 202 squadron then based at Lossiemouth and getting one was much less easy than now.

The rescue truck arrived as a base station and folks are asked to bring up a stretcher, casualty bag and a long static rope. Eventually this arrives in the gully below us and we use the rope left in place to get the static line attached to pull up to us with a big sling to make me a harness and a fig 8 descender for me. Hamish spies a good strong Rowan tree 15ft above us and takes the static line up and ties it to the spindly but apparently well rooted tree. We pull up the stretcher and casualty bag having also asked for another rope to be tied onto the foot end of the stretcher. The stretcher is hauled up and between us we get the casualty onto the stretcher after a lot of humping groaning and pain. Challenging work for just two of us and painful despite the analgesic for the casualty. Hamish gets out two swing cheek pulleys he’s made in his workshop. Rustic but functional pre Petzl he also had his own design rope jammers. We rig the stretcher with tape slings as the Mk 3/4 didn’t have wire strops pre fitted, we then put the pulleys on the static line and clip them to the top and bottom stretcher tapes and connect up our climbing rope as a back rope to the stretcher on a belay. Then get the bottom end of the static line taken up and out onto the path to the West side of the gully, where there is a group of rescuers. We ask them to tug of war the static rope tight and lock it off on a belay. The static rope is angled down so the end is much lower than us. This rope tension lifts the stretcher airborne above us and clear of all obstacles and we then lower it with our rope. Someone below grabs the rope at the feet end of the stretcher which hangs to below the pitch and walks it out of the gully, joins another rope on and pulling it as required to coax the stretcher out onto the West side. It goes well sky lining across the width of the gully airborne until our rope runs out, but the stretcher is almost there and has a good landing at the side. Its then carried over the short distance to the path and a flatter spot. A couple of hours have passed but timing was perfect as the helicopter arrived and flew up to where the stretcher was waiting. The “Whirlwind” only had a 60ft winch wire so not a lot of capability and certainly would not be able to winch from the gully. The “Wessex” from 137 Leuchars which replaced it a couple of years later had a 300ft winch and twin free gas turbine jet engines and could at a push take up to sixteen people although not in its SAR role where 7 plus crew was a load. The Wessex changed mountain rescue completely and RAF Leuchars SAR crews and MRT were all good friends.

Fiona Gunn in Clachaig Gully

The casualty is picked up and flown away to hospital. Hamish and I have to abseil off on the abandoned rope doubled and placed over a rock spike pulled down after us then get out onto the path and head down. 25 minutes later we are at the base vehicle to be told Sandy is up on the ridge on his own and has found the missing folk and guiding them down. We go up with the binoculars to see if anything is visible at Ossian's Cave. Sure enough there is a group of about 7 people, and they are waving an orange bivi bag. We ask for the helicopter to return, and it does so lifting up a couple of team members and winching them down near Ossian's Cave. One casualty with a broken leg is winched up quickly, and then the rest of the group guided back down to the bottom. There is a particularly good picture of the Pilot John Stirling landing on the A82 to pick up team members. A busy day. As we were near an excellent pub we made the most of what was left of the day and quite a lot of the night refreshing ourselves.


The Wessex last job before being replaced with the "Sea King" April 1993


Wednesday, 26 October 2022

Sport or Trad, its Rock

Pebble pulling on "Moy Bueno"
As an ageing "climber" it's really hard to improve. The only way is to look at your weaknesses and work hard on them and even then maybe you only hold off the decay not improve. Among these weaknesses are a reluctance to get injured - again.  My major injuries are mostly work related, overuse or similar.  Achilles tendon injury with a chainsaw, crushed lumbar vertebrae and pelvic injury from falling back and getting knocked out turning a huge log from the "cant-hook" breaking during the lumberjack years before using my brain to study and get out of the woods. Broken ankle on a rescue, collar bones from motor cycle and bike race crashing, concussion and neck injury from mountain biking, and a slipped disc (most painful of them all) from a shite core. None of these makes you want to take a ground fall and why I take a clip stick for some routes 

I had many good trad years ticking off many classics, almost all the hard rock routes, and a few of the extreme rock climbs. Many of the most memorable days were not on hard routes but good days with good people on classic routes. It's not good to be too hung up on grades although the old graded lists in SMC guidebooks and some routes reputations gave goals to train for, and an impetus to get better at it. Mostly trad was about a head game not always how physically strong you were. Many routes had an aura about them but very few deserved it.
Dunira "Georges Bush"

I came late to sport climbing. After years of being among other things, a paramedic, climbing instructor, ski instructor, ski patrol. I then took at job at Joint Services Mountain Training. A great place to work among enthusiastic mountaineers. Only I was burnt out, and for a long time climbing had a smaller place in my life. Eventually the lads at work got me back into it and with the opening of the ice factor I took an interest in training and getting back into climbing more seriously. Then came bike racing (again) and a bit of a swansong until 3 years ago when training on the local roads just became stupid. What to replace it with? I migrated into sport climbing and competitions. Mainly because Duncan my son was climbing very well and training hard and it rubbed off on me. I realised that with a modern approach and the "knowing how to train" from bike racing I could get right into it from an analytical point of view and see how an ageing and slightly worn body could adapt to training loads for climbing. Very quickly I realised that running and cycling took away from hard sport climbing if you wanted to improve.

Sanna Bay Bouldering
From just going to the wall to lead or top rope to get the endurance, I then found the single biggest  benefit was bouldering, and lots of it. Not the floppy bouldering of arsing around. Focused problem solving and identifying my physical weaknesses and working problems. Very quickly it was apparent that cycling had done me no favours and my hips were tight and my core weak. Sure, I could rock out 30 sit ups and plank a couple of minutes, but that's not the only core you need. Stretching, yoga. weights and a big variety of stuff was needed. And I continue to work on it. Also finger strength. I had always been told I had strong fingers. For trad maybe, for harder bouldering or sport not so. So a finger board and weights has sorted that out to some extent (and given a few chronic injuries!) "Lattice" testing and training gives the numbers to see how its going. Outside sport requires indoor training discipline. I often have "me" days where I go up to a wall specifically to do repeaters of easier routes with a weight belt for endurance, or nights where I target a few newly set hard routes and try and onsight them. I prefer onsighting 6c/7a to working 7b, but if a harder route inspires me, I am happy to work it. 
Lower Lednock "Black Magic"

Bouldering helps with the harder routes as it helps with seeing sequences and patterns and working out body positions. This helps when on the harder lead routes (IMHO). The wall in general also gives a carry over. We get such shite weather that the wall cushions the days or weeks between outdoor days as you are kept strong. I personally don't find it too bad going for a month with only indoors then going hard out. As long as you are pushing it hard leading indoors you retain the clipping technique, endurance, and can read the rock. Perhaps the only weakness is footwork but with conscious thought and quiet feet this can also be worked indoors.

So, sport climbing, bouldering and indoor climbing have been great for me. It provides a training purpose, goals, and a social with both young and old like minded folks. Many of us older climbers  struggle with illness as well. Mine relatively minor, but for others serious, and  the local wall or easily accessible sport crag keeps them climbing and involved with the tribe that is climbing. That's important for both physical and mental health and an additional benefit of sport crags. Black Rock, Dallens and Clach a Phrionnsa as three good local examples.

It could also be said that given the availability of local rock very few folks are putting the work into development and these venues mentioned would not be there without the graft of two or three locals. Black Rocks harder routes are still needing re bolted but I guess folks do not have the time or money to do this. Rannochan as well. Young Tom Ballard was ahead of the game. It would be good memorial to him to have all his local sport routes re equipped IMHO and I would happily put money into a bolt fund.
"Uncertain Emotions" Tunnel Wall Glencoe

Tom was ahead of his time in Lochaber, as was "Cubby" before him on the Tunnel Wall. Sport climbing was long shunned by the more traditional Scottish mountaineers. Bolt chopping and slagging was rife until relatively recently. I always found that both bizarre and hypocritical given climbing history. Many harder trad classics are only climbable at their grade and safe because pegs were banged in after technical ability wasn't up to it and only hammering the route into submission remained. Also, past legends were not averse to the odd rest, point of aid, or pre placed runner. Sport climbing is at least honest about being fun and about technical challenge. 

It's also a safer fun way to utilise areas where climbing most likely would not happen. It's also the entry point for many transitioning from inside to out. Many good sport climbers later go on to enjoy the adventure of trad routes, although most drop many grades until they get a feel for how to climb them safely. Sport climbing can't be ignored and is mainstream, and the old guard should embrace it and guide it in the right direction. There are acres of rock unsuitable for trad climbing in the honeypot areas such as Glencoe that could be developed, but folk are too scared to touch it in case the grey haired ghosts of climbing past come and revile them. The old masters need to embrace Sport and encourage appropriate development. Sporting a Kalymnos suntan and yet not supporting the same type of climbing in Scotland is just hypocrisy. Sport climbing is not apostasy, it's just another aspect of enjoying climbing rock. If folk need convincing, just look at how many youths and younger folk are having fun doing it. Scottish climbing is not all about the past, it's also about the future and Sport is part of it.
Yes we do still "trad" Ardnamurchan "Uisge"


Thursday, 13 October 2022

Avalanches, Beacons and Being Searchable

1. Learn How to Interpret the Avalanche Forecast. Don't get avalanched ......



The Avalanche Danger Scale uses five progressively increasing danger levels: Low, Moderate, Considerable,  High and Extreme. It indicates the likelihood of avalanches, how they might be triggered and recommended actions in the back country. However, the wording is very brief and does not include a meaningful indication of risk. Below is an explanation of each danger level, including the transitions between levels, signs of instability at each level and the implications of slope angle, aspect and elevation.
Understanding the SAIS forecast as acting on it could save your life
Low
Travel is generally safe. The snow pack is well bonded and natural avalanches will not be seen except for small sluffs on extremely steep slopes. Human-triggered avalanches are unlikely except in isolated locations in extreme terrain. The danger will usually be from wind-driven snow in gullies and chutes or deposited across very steep open slopes near ridge lines. Ski or board one by one as smoothly as possible without falling if you suspect the formation of wind slab. Be aware of shaded, north to east aspects where the danger may be transitioning to Moderate. There are few fatalities at this danger level.

Moderate
This is the most difficult danger level for back country skiers and boarders to assess snow stability. Many of the usual indicators such as cracks, settling, whumpfing and signs of recent avalanche are absent, especially at the lower end of the moderate level. Key indicators are any recent snowfall, and wind deposition. Snow pack tests may help assess stability.

Conditions are generally favourable for travel providing routes are chosen carefully. The snow  pack is only moderately bonded on some steep slopes. Areas of danger are usually restricted to certain types of terrain such as bowls and gullies. The altitude, aspect and type of terrain where danger can be expected are usually detailed in the Avalanche Forecast. Remote triggering is unlikely, so you only need to be concerned about the steepness of nearby terrain features.

Human-triggered avalanches are possible. Ski or board carefully, one by one, in suspect terrain and avoid high loading of the snow pack by spreading people out on the uphill track. Carefully evaluate the stability of very steep slopes (steeper than 35°) and aspects identified as potentially dangerous in the Avalanche Forecast.

Be especially careful if the higher elevation band in the forecast, or the danger on other aspects, is Considerable. There is a significant difference in instability between Moderate and Considerable. Don’t get sucked onto higher, steeper and more dangerous slopes. Although naturally triggered avalanches are not expected, ice climbers should watch out for the sun warming steep collection zones above their climbs. If deep-slab instability due to a persistent weak layer is mentioned in the Avalanche Forecast, you need to pay careful attention to the terrain. Avalanches from such a layer are not only likely to be large and extensive, they are completely unpredictable. Unless you have specific local knowledge, keep off large open slopes at this danger level if the forecast warns of a persistent weak layer.

29th March 2013 using the older SAIS Graphic for localised considerable hazard
Persistent Weak Layer March 2013

Click pics to enlarge

Large Slab Triggered off persistent weak layer 30th March 2013
Fatal Avlx x 1 Skier Glencoe
Considerable
Conditions have become much less favourable. The snow pack is only moderately or poorly bonded over a much larger area of the terrain. Human triggering is possible by a single skier on steep slopes and aspects mentioned in the Avalanche Forecast. Remote triggering of avalanches is possible, so the maximum steepness of the slope above you should be used when deciding if you want to continue.

Instability indicators mentioned in Moderate danger above will likely be present. Back country touring at this danger level requires good route finding skills, and experience in recognising dangerous terrain and evaluating slope stability. Keep to slopes of less than 35°, especially slopes at the altitude and aspect indicated in the Avalanche Forecast. Remember that remote triggering is possible. Typically the scree fans at the bottom of gullies start out at around 30° and the slope steepens as it gets higher. Keep off such slopes at this hazard level. The remarks about persistent weak layers in the previous section on Moderate danger level also apply to this danger level.
New SAIS graphic as stripes for localised "considerable"

Reports such as the above showing stripes as areas of  localised "considerable" risk  to North and South within a moderate NW to SW aspect and considerable risk NE to SE. This is the sort of thing that it's easy to become complacent about as its a common feature of the Scottish winter. You might very obviously if you have any sense, stay well clear of the NE to SE aspects but wander into a high risk situation on descent on the N to S aspects.  The majority of avalanche incidents in Europe occur in these moderate to considerable forecast days as they occur most frequently in the season and folk become complacent (the familiarity heuristic) and that's why route choice approaching a climb and thinking about descent options prior to leaving and during a trip as wind and weather change should become part of your thinking.

High
Conditions have become dangerous, most often as a result of significant amounts of new snow, snowfall accompanied by wind or the snow pack becoming isothermal and threatening wet-snow avalanches. The snow pack is poorly bonded over large areas and human triggering is likely on steep slopes (steeper than 30°). Remote triggering is likely and large natural avalanches are to be expected.

Stay on slopes that are flatter than 30° for any part of the slope and be aware of the potential for avalanches from slopes above. If you do decide to walk ski or board on less steep slopes, be very aware of the surrounding terrain to avoid inadvertently crossing the bottom of steeper slopes or cutting down a steep convex rollover.

Usually this level of hazard is only present for a few days at a time. The smart back country traveller will stay in simple terrain until conditions improve. If you are caught out on a multi-day trip you may have to dig in and wait for travel conditions to improve and the avalanche danger to lessen.


These stripes in the avalanche forecast. My take is to think of them as landmine strips blown by the wind, lurking in eddies from cross loading when the wind blows across as well as down or over a slope, the colour of them is the sensitivity of the pressure plate to you the trigger. If there are enough of them the explosion will propagate setting of others, or if the surrounding slope is weak enough then it will slide with it. As you can see there are areas of High on slopes with a localised "considerable" and a"considerable" risk to the South.  A lethal combo of  narrow safe travel options making for events that will take lives if you don't tread warily and navigate with extreme care.

Extreme
Extreme danger levels are rare in Scotland as usually this level is associated with buildings and roads or alpine villages under threat, and usually the result of unusually large amounts of new snow. The snow pack is weakly bonded and unstable. Numerous large avalanches are likely. The weight of the new snow can trigger avalanches on layers buried deep in the snow pack. Natural avalanches can release on slopes of less than 30° Back country touring is not recommended and often impossible. Avoid all avalanche terrain and keep well away from avalanche path run outs.

Avoid Groupthink
In psychology "Groupthink" or "Risky Shift" behaviour is well known in groups and most of us will be aware that we have given in to it or even encouraged it. I strongly believe that in avalanche incidents in Scotland this groupthink or risky shift has become the biggest education issue and maybe why we see large group incidents or group events as occurred in the Cairngorms when two separate groups were avalanched last winter. Much has been made of the quick response from folk training in the corrie who helped.  And good on them. What I am about to say is not a reflection on these helper folks choices, as I am sure they stayed in safe terrain.  The  "however" bit though is that just by being there and numbers increase with lots of MRT's training, and groups under instruction, then a larger "Groupthink" takes place. Groups less experienced or not under instruction maybe feel safe, what McCammon labels  as Social Facilitation.  I would call this a  "risky shift". It's often this way in the climbing and skiing honey pots such as the Northern Corries where folk gather. Aonach Mor or ScRL in Glencoe are other places. Even if the waggon wheel of death shows Red on these slope aspects, they are still the places to be seen by the instructor masses who are now at the height of their annual gatherings with paying students. These are the places instructors are familiar with, and therefore where less experienced folk feel safer with an apparent safety in numbers. They maybe went there when they were on a course. Group thinking on a large scale perhaps.

Better minds than mine have already written about risky shift and here's an excellent article on it The Risky Shift Phenomenon and Avalanches. This kind of stuff has been getting applied to avalanche instructor training for a while by AAA.  Do current winter mountain training schemes  include enough if anything on this sort of thing?  I put this as a question, as I am certainly not in a position to know, and maybe it is already covered. What I do know is that there is nothing that can change the pretty piss poor odds if buried and that pretty universally all of us involved in avalanche education are trying to jump forward and get to "no rescue".

No matter what we do, mountains and people are unpredictable. As a keen off the piste skier I have to accept that luck is also in there as well, as on good snow days I am first in the que and having gone through the forecasts, stability tests you are only left with how the snow feels under you ski's and gut instincts. Sometimes it's a very subtle thing where in the morning it feels wrong, and by afternoon the snow "feels" safe.  I don't know how the feck that would stand up in court! I also know its taken 40 years and I still can't always be sure it all won't go tits up one day. I also know that it pays to voice your opinion when in a group, and make your own choice, not getting swept along by the group and it's most vocal leader. Beware Risky Shift!



"Destiny is a good thing to accept when it's going your way. When it isn't, don't call it destiny; call it injustice, treachery, or simple bad luck"   Catch 22 by Joseph Heller

For backcountry travel, side stash/off piste, or indeed anything out of ski area and uncontrolled, always carry the three essentials of transceiver, shovel and probe and do a pre depart group beacon test and practise.



If you need an airbag you have fucked up but might survive. If you need your transceiver you have fucked up and probably won't!

2. Get a Beacon, Shovel and Probe. Some Transceiver Observations:

These 3 antenna beacons are all good purchases, but like all technology when used for scenarios that are not simple then their effectiveness is challenged and quirks come out. Only realistic practise with the beacon you own will make you the user aware of what these are, and work arounds.  What this means is practise and realistic scenarios to challenge you the searcher. That's what Beacon training parks are there to help you with. I have attempted to be non biased but declare a conflict of interest as I am an Ortovox retailer.

Auto revert or random transmit from rubber-neckers is the curse of the avalanche search. Be aware of it when on a long search, and be aware if its pre set on or you have to activate it as part of the pre trip beacon check.


I do a special offer of the pro level "Diract" and "Diract Voice" to SMR and Ski Patrol. For professionals I recommend folk wanting an upgrade to consider this very advanced Beacon. It takes you straight to the victim, has a very reliable "mark" feature and a host of other built in pro features such as actually displaying visually where each victim is with distance, a longer range (55m) than other digital beacons (most are 25m) and of course the smart antenna that gets you found faster. Also incorporated is a Recco reflector inside as back up and the smart antenna to get you found.

click over image to read

Ortovox Diract Transceiver/Beacon

3. Get some Training and Practice Digging


Learn how to interpret the days SAIS forecast and some basic snowcraft

Learn how to use your transceiver effectively

Learn how to find, digout and take care of an avalanche victim
Learn how to dig effectively as time is oxygen and your shovel is the key to living or dying. Can you resuscitate your friend or provide first aid if they are injured ?


4. Recco. Mountaineers are not Searchable - most of the time ...............

Don't get buried! But if you do you want to be searchable 
and found FAST!
Recco is another important part of the organised rescue strategy. Education and avalanche avoidance is primary, being found early by companions if it goes wrong is vital and prior practise makes this work. Organised rescue requires a triple response: Dogs, Recco and Probe Lines. Until now Scotland has only been able to apply two of the three unlike alpine rescue avalanche search where for years all three have been used. Survival is time critical. Much has been made of trauma being the main factor in poor survival in Scottish avalanches. Largely based on recent tragic avalanche incidents where trauma has clearly been the dominant factor.

These anecdotal observations and opinions make easy it to forget the victims where triple "H" syndrome has been the killer of which there have been many over the last decades. Anecdote though is not enough, and there is no recent data set from necropsy studies in Scotland, (if there is its not readily available). One thing is sure, being searchable and getting found quickly increases survival. Some Scottish MR teams already have Recco as part of their search strategy (Tayside, Glencoe, Cairngorm MRT's) and Cairngorm, Glencoe and Nevis Range Ski Patrol. A good thing. I can imagine nothing worse than a victim recovery delayed because a search team did not have a detector and the victim is found to have either a Recco reflector or a harmonic on them. Recco is of course for "organised rescue". Everyone including Recco and the clothing manufacturers endorse the view that not getting avalanched through education and training is better than needing any search devices which may be too late. However, in the real world shit still happens and unless someone is "searchable" a rescuer cannot find them readily even if the poor victim has bottomed out of the survival curve. We should not forget Robert Burnett's remarkable 22 hour survival in the Southern Cairngorm's. All victims surely deserve the benefit of the doubt and rescuers throwing all resources at an attempt for a live recovery.
Small sticky reflectors that can be attached to boots or helmets
As "off piste" and "Backcountry" skiing grows in popularity there is every reason to imagine that being more searchable can save lives.  Nothing can replace education and prevention, or fast effective companion rescue with beacon, shovel and probe, but as ski patrols and MR teams take up Recco and the reflectors can be bought and carried then the chance of getting found alive by organised rescue if on scene quickly increases. I would recommend two reflectors to mountaineers, One front top and one back bottom.
Sewn in reflector


So Recco is here in Scotland and its great to see the take up by enlightened Scottish rescuers adopting alpine best practise. Who knows when Recco will save a life, but if it does it's job then its been donation money well spent.
Live recovery of a victim located by her Recco reflector from 3m burial
Glencoe Ski Patrol doing a precautionary combined 457mhz transceiver search and Recco harmonic search. The R9 detector searches both, and at close range can find many other harmonic devices such as mobile phones.

The reflector for Harmonic Radar or RECCO




Friday, 16 September 2022

Fiona Gunn, née Ducker - A life

 For what is it to die?

But to stand naked in the wind
and to melt into the sun.
And what is it to cease breathing?
But to free the breath from its restless tides,
that it may rise and expand and seek God, unencumbered.

Only when you drink from the river of silence
shall you indeed sing.
And when you have reached the mountain top,
then you shall begin to climb.
And the earth shall claim your limbs.
Then shall you truly dance

Kahlil Gibran "The Prophet"

How do justice to a remarkable woman, and share a life full of love family and adventure. Not an easy task but here is a eulogy to that remarkable person much of which was hidden under a self effacing manner and selfless character. She was a quiet Christian preferring to live her faith in acts of kindness rather than talking. Here's an insight into that person with some text and photos. The images will enlarge with a click over them if you wish.

Young Fiona already with flowers


Fiona was born in Bath 28/02/1960. A child full of character and with a mind of her own from an early age. She spent formative early years with her parents John and Mary in Africa where they were called for mission work, John flying a Cessna to various remote corners of Africa delivering doctors, medical supplies and doing important work. Mary manning the radio and bringing up Fiona and her siblings Chris, Pandy and Julia who arrived later. Fiona remembered the float plane and swimming in Lake Victoria after a Hippo check flypast, and memorable dirt track journeys to and from School in Jos Nigeria. Kenya, Sudan, Chad and Tanzania were countries they worked in over the years and John thinking nothing of a quick nip into the Ngorongoro crater to see the wildlife with family or friends. Africa left an indelible impression, some good some not so. A common thing with Mission children. Sadly we never got back to some of these places. North Africa was as far as we got and the edge of the Sahara where we were turned back because their was a war.

John, Mary Fiona, Chris and Angela (Pandy)


Fiona defending dolly from curious locals

Fiona at the Blue and White Nile junction

When a pre teen she came back to Wadhurst School in Sussex where she stayed until the family decided to come back to the UK and set up the Christian Adventure Trust on Tanera Mor just off Achiltibuie North of Ullapool. At 16 she was a boarder at Dingwall academy. Tanera was formative, it was here that a young girl evolved into a woman with a taste for adventure that could run rampant among the mountains and in the sea. Kayaking, Sailing and Mountaineering, sun bleached blond hair and brown as a berry from a life outdoors. 

Wild Child Fiona on her summer holidays at Tanera Mor

Fiona  right with one of the ponies on Tanera

The family moved from Tanera lock stock and barrel with staff in 1975 when the lease ran out on the Island. They moved to "Carnoch House" home of the late Hugh Grant, and re started as Carnoch Outdoor Centre. This ran from 1975 until 1988 before being bought and run by the Williams family as Glencoe Outdoor Centre which it is to the present day.

I first saw Fiona on her Icelandic pony riding bareback through the village with her sister Angela (known as Pandy by the family). Venga and Meshoni were the horses names. I was struck by this blond attractive girl looking a bit wild and interesting so meeting her at the Tidal pool one day didn't hesitate to ask her on a date. The date consisting of a walk to Clachaig and a pint of Cider for her and beer for me. The rest, well lets just say I had a girl/woman who didn't want to be tamed, was up for anything and always had a huge laugh and big smile not far from her face, even when half way up a deluge in Clachaig gully. 

Fiona in Clachaig gully retro style. Cynthia and her both soloed it one summer evening 1hr 50m bottom to top and back in the pub 

The 17 year old bombshell mucking about on Carnivore which she later did in proper shoes. EB's

17 years old at Dingwall Academy. A bit colder than Tanzania


At 21 Fiona was the first West Highland Way Ranger, a job she did for 3 years

She was just seventeen. Six months later we got engaged and Nov 1978 we got married in St Mary's Glencoe then moved into a tied house at Achindarroch Duror where I was working with a Forestry winch and Felling team clear cutting hundreds of thousand's of tons of old Growth forest. Some huge tree's and tragically some accidents including a fatal one to a friend. Fiona was involved as she was at home and the nearest phone for the emergency services. I was very much involved during our courtship and after with the mountain rescue team. Fiona came and helped on many rescues although not made to feel very welcome by some old hands, one of whom told her he came on rescues to get away from his wife and its no place for a woman! That she had climbed some of Glencoe's hardest routes and the complainant was no climbing star it was particularly ironic, and although it hurt it didn't bother her for long. She became a highly competent mountaineer summer and winter and shared a rope most often with me, but also climbed with many of the folks who went on to be IFMGA Guides or already had the carnet. 

Fiona and I about to do "White Wall Crack"

Fiona back right 3rd in next to Cathel MacLeod. Front runners Paul Moores, Jim Morning. The first Highland Cross event to raise funds for a CT Scanner for Raigmore. CT scans were to become a big part of life in the future. 

Fiona was also a very good skier doing her BASI 3 when in her early twenties and helping run the ski school at what is now Glencoe Mountain but back in the late 70'a and 80's was "White Corries". The outdoor centre took over the ski school and ski hire from Ronnie Weir, running it for 10 years. When Philip Rankin did some midweek opening the ski school did the ski rescue as the weekend volly's were not up. Fiona often took the lead in first aid and rescue using the MacInnes stretchers up the hill getting folk down the old chair lift to the bottom. Fiona skied with a neatness and economy of effort even on steep terrain. We messed up once in Verbier ducking some ropes on Mont Gele into a couloir, and its was rock hard ice. It was very scary near death experience in this 1,500 gully, but she held it together even managing a kick step above an ice pitch. I couldn't make the kick turn and dropped the pitch nearly loosing it totally. The cable car had stopped above us to watch and when we got to the bottom the pisteurs just shook their heads. Not sure if it was admiration or or bewilderment!

Below Easy Gully Nevis Range

Fiona was also a good sailor with an RYA senior instructors ticket which she gained at Cumbrae National Training centre on the Clyde, being assessed on the day of the famous 1986 Hurricane. We also did our windsurfing instructors awards there. Windsurfing was big part of our lives through the 80's. Any big wind day would see us loading up the boards or heading down to the Ballachulish sailing site to rip across the loch on our short boards or out to loch Linnhe for a bit of wind against tide wave action at Corran. Fiona also windsurfed the entire 26 mile length of Loch Ness on a Mistral short board, broad reaching miles more than the lochs length. She was a powerful and strong athlete, the term used these days would be ripped. With her bleached blond long hair she was bonny lass indeed. 

Spring 1979 seven months married

A foray off Arisaig on the long board during a family camping trip of which there were very many

Gunn Clan at the beach

We had married young. Fiona 18 and me 21. We had a lot of fun in our twenties, but settled after 12 years married and decided to have a family. One last adventure being us both working a full ski season in the French alps working at various resorts such as La Clusaz, Valloire, Vars, Les Orres and finally in Pra Lou until late April. From March we new Fiona was expecting as we had planned to start a family. It was hard work running the ski school, liaising with the ESF instructors and dealing with morning sickness, as well as odd days above 2,300m. Fiona didn't adapt well to altitude above 2,300m, I was fine, but I was not expecting.

On our return in May I met up with Dr Bob one of the British Association of Ski Patrollers' (BASP) founders. I had met up with Bob and fellow patrollers over the previous two years during and after the associations founding. He mentioned that the current association secretary was standing down and the position vacant. So Fiona's name was put forward and at the 1990 agm at Kingshouse she became secretary. Part time working from home it was ideal when Esther came along. She continued with BASP for the next 23 years developing both the association and first aid training programme. BASP became the leading provider of First aid and medical training for outdoor pursuits instructors and NGB's as well as many mountain rescue teams. Organising courses all over the alps and UK, and also international meets such as FIPS.  During this time we were blessed with Duncan my son and later with Rebekah. Juggling family and work long before Covid. 

Scottish Ski Patrollers training with the PHGM Modane crew at Tignes FIPS 2005. Fiona 2nd left


The family meant everything to her. "I love you to the moon and stars" her favourite saying

She used her instructional skills to help all our family become competent skiers and rock climbers as well as she herself taking to mountain biking like a duck to water, and our 3 children enjoyed it. Many family holidays were to the 7 Stanes, weekends at trail centres, or constructing our own tracks around Glencoe. She and I also road biked, entering Sportive rides or weekly road racing or time trailing with West Highland Wheelers or North Argyll cycle club. 

MTB Glen Feshie

Etape Caledonia

After 48 off road miles in the 3G's cycle race. We also won a pairs at a 10 under the Ben


After Cancer struck first in 2011 she raced less but did a lot of time keeping for the clubs. Always a good club volunteer. Until 2018 we biked a lot but that year the Cancer returned and major surgery on her skull between her eyes and then radio therapy set her back. Very few folk realised she had this as it wasn't visible. She basically had her forehead removed and put back but such was the surgical skill the big scars were under the hairline and not seen after the staples were out. She referred to the staples as her Tiara. She was back on the bike in a couple of weeks. I had by then got back into outdoor rock climbing as had my son Duncan, and the girls inside climbing.

During Chemo her project was clearing "The Secret Garden"

The secret garden was and is a work in progress which was her therapy as much as any treatment. Its now in the good hands of a group of community volunteers who all loved Fiona.

A woman who liked her hands in the soil and had very green fingers even the week before passing. She often used the language of flowers to express how she felt in giving plants to folks that had some meaning  to how they were.

Fiona's mastectomy and surgical implant and rebuild  of her chest wall meant she couldn't climb but she did belay us all, and in particular held my ropes from below on some hard sport climbs. She probably shouldn't have mountain biked but loved the thrill of a gnarly trail. She biked up until 3 months before she passed away. Despite an electric bike which she reluctantly bought, it was getting too much. 

After leaving BASP in 2012 she worked at West Highland College UHI until she passed away, enjoying 10 years with some great folk who became friends for life. She was a remarkable woman. Her grandmother who was a formidable lady aptly described her when she said "Ducker women are full of vim and vigour". 

Julia, Granny at 100, Angela (Pandy) and Fiona remarking that Ducker women had "Vim and Vigour"


Motor replacement in a Dyson. She loved cars and between us we stripped an engine and re bored it and replaced it and the gearbox ourselves when just married, and she serviced the carburettor and was really good at setting engine timing.

Fiona doing a bit of Yoga at 10,000ft above Durango the Colorado bouldering mecca


"Vim and Vigour". Very true, I count myself lucky to have married one with it in spades as she kicked me up the backside and made me whatever it is I became never ceasing to encourage, cajole and support. She supported me in mountain rescue, climbing, and all aspects of my life. It was she who recognised I had a good brain and should go into adult education and University. When I received my MBE I always thought it was hers and the family's more than mine. Behind every man is a good woman. That woman was Fiona to me and she was a stunning woman in every aspect. That she was in my life for 45 years is something I will always thank God for. We always felt we were the best for each other, and that glue kept us together until death parted us.

MBE day with the Queen at Holyrood. She was so proud and yet it is she and the others worrying at home while we are out on the mountains that deserve the medals


40th Wedding Anniversary





Two oldies

                   She lived to see Daisy our Grand daughter. A delight to us both

On the Death of the Beloved by John O’Donohue

Though we need to weep your loss,
You dwell in that safe place in our hearts,
Where no storm or night or pain can reach you.

Your love was like the dawn
Brightening over our lives
Awakening beneath the dark
A further adventure of colour.

The sound of your voice
Found for us
A new music
That brightened everything.

Whatever you enfolded in your gaze
Quickened in the joy of its being;
You placed smiles like flowers
On the altar of the heart.
Your mind always sparkled
With wonder at things.

Though your days here were brief,
Your spirit was live, awake, complete.

We look towards each other no longer
From the old distance of our names;
Now you dwell inside the rhythm of breath,
As close to us as we are to ourselves.

Though we cannot see you with outward eyes,
We know our soul's gaze is upon your face,
Smiling back at us from within everything
To which we bring our best refinement.

Let us not look for you only in memory,
Where we would grow lonely without you.
You would want us to find you in presence,
Beside us when beauty brightens,
When kindness glows
And music echoes eternal tones.

When orchids brighten the earth,
Darkest winter has turned to spring;
May this dark grief flower with hope
In every heart that loves you.

May you continue to inspire us:

To enter each day with a generous heart.
To serve the call of courage and love
Until we see your beautiful face again
In that land where there is no more separation,
Where all tears will be wiped from our mind,
And where we will never lose you again. 

Fiona Gunn 28.02.1960  - 25.08.2022