tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62622410614412698382024-03-05T16:20:55.724+00:00CrankitupGear GlencoeNeed to hire a cycle, help or advice on a new bike or a repair then give me a call on 077468 60023 email:davygunn@gmail.com We might only have a bike shack but we can sort most things. Need a Transceiver or ski's then I can supply Ortovox and Movement Ski's and some other brands at very competitive prices. I am a professional member of the American Avalanche Association and work as a ski patroler and rescuer providing professional training including UK Trainer for RECCOCrankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.comBlogger376125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-50005037371222704602024-01-16T18:00:00.008+00:002024-01-16T21:42:53.997+00:00Avalanche Jenga Season <div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9dJxNcU0ZR5Ous0jnGNwXtfIfXvUT9OlMnMoTEAmazJvN55_OUbCs809avQnuvPWmaGDJtL_KAuI9QbKQ82ZC1TpNO-2nenkIqJpcS3scR-plxXttvKgW24TOyZEQRDjxEwxJBmdfTY/s2048/NR+GM.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9dJxNcU0ZR5Ous0jnGNwXtfIfXvUT9OlMnMoTEAmazJvN55_OUbCs809avQnuvPWmaGDJtL_KAuI9QbKQ82ZC1TpNO-2nenkIqJpcS3scR-plxXttvKgW24TOyZEQRDjxEwxJBmdfTY/w636-h358/NR+GM.jpg" width="636"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Recco Training at Glencoe Mountain <br> Nevis Range and Glencoe Professional Ski Patrols<br><br></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;"><br></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: red; font-family: arial;">These musings by a now almost, but not quite, burnt out arm chair pundit who has been buried and also weilded a shovel too many times in avalanche recovery, should not be taken as gospel, just my personal opinion. Always seek out other opinions. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Forecasting and local avalanche risk assessment is about prediction based on past and future weather forecasts, therefore it will always be uncertain, and a game of probability. Especially when what is an area forecast is applied more locally. Local topographic effects, and slight weather variations will make a difference. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As an example. There may be a difference between the Glencoe Mountain ski area weather and snowpack at the East end of Glencoe, and the Ballachulish Horseshoe circuit at the West end. Interpretation and application of forecast information to a trip is a process of increasing or decreasing uncertainty. Its rarely 100% certain. That's why a degree of flexibility in decisions and dynamic risk assessment is essential during a day out in the mountains. Conditions might be quite different to what you thought, and plans will need revised. Mountaineers and skiers who reach pensionable age have become good observer's of small and subtle weather and snow pack detail, and possess a spatial awareness while also being very respectful of the mountains while journeying among them. Its not required to achieve an objective some days, and quite enough to listen to what the mountains are saying to you. This may be go home, or it might be todays the day, so get the rope/ski's on and enjoy.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In off piste skiing and touring, you couple uncertainty with risk homeostasis from airbags, carrying the three avalanche rescue essentials of transceiver, shovel and probe. Have a ponder that its a recipe for feeding the white room spin cycle if you don't stop and think. The decisions you make with the presence of consequence reduction kit such as these should be no different to that ones you would make if you left them behind. The idea is not to get avalanched and need them. Acknowledging human fallability and uncertainty, they are there of the unforseen "Black Swan Event", </span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #202124; text-align: left;">a phrase nore commonly used in the world of finance, </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #202124; text-align: left;">for </span><span style="color: #040c28; text-align: left;">an extremely negative event or occurrence that is impossibly difficult to predict.</span></span></span></div>
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The top graphic is pretty obvious. Its pretty certain that natural and human triggered avalanches are predicted above 650m on North to South Eeast aspects, and a localised avalanche risk is present below this altitude from the North West through South. Most folk with a brain will avoid the areas above 500m (allowing a bit of leeway!). RED is the colour of danger (obviously) and folk will choose to go to safer aspects, which in the above is green, which as a colour the colour of</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> greater certainty of</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> safety. Things become less certain on yellow, and very uncertain at orange. This uncertainty especially at Orange is where the risks are, as the risks are localised. Yellow the probability of getting caught is less, but still uncertain, stick a localised considerable orange strip in there and you have a mine field of uncertainty lying in wait.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">
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How do you mange or minimise risk if you have to travel on these aspects, or choose to ski them? Well you don't manage the risk with any degree of certainty as you just don't know for sure where weak spots are, and you will for sure <b>not </b>know the true propagation risk from a trigger. <b>You can't minimise a risk you don't know.</b> For the inexperienced person there is a temptation to look at these localised hot spots in the graphic and think you can avoid them, thinking, surely I will recognise these weak areas and can ski/walk/climb around them. Folk dont though, which is wahy folk still die in Scottish avalanches.</span></div>
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So my take on why it is that most folk get whacked when the risk is considerable or localised, is that being outdoor optimists (as we all are), and perhaps having got knackered climbing up a mountain or skinning into a valley, or maybe having a bluebird pow day, folk get used to that middle risk level, as it's used the most representing the most common and therefore familiar avalanche conditions that occur for the longest periods. That risk level has the most uncertainty and therefore is the most dangerous for the winter sports person IMHO</span></div>
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I suppose if you were to roughly put a % chance of probability of being avalanched on the European avalanche scale you could say that:<br>
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<b style="background-color: #cccccc;">Black</b> 100% chance of getting whacked while either minding your own business, in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galt%C3%BCr_Avalanche" target="_blank">Galtur </a>or being suicidal side piste in Tignes<br>
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<span style="background-color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: red;"><b>Red</b></span><span style="background-color: #cccccc;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: white;"> </span></span>98% chance of getting whacked on an aspect with that high level of risk. The Scottish highest level of risk. </span><span style="font-family: arial;"> Apart from the </span><b style="font-family: arial;"><a href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/record/rcahms/25194/gaick-lodge/rcahms" target="_blank">Gaick Lodge</a> </b><span style="font-family: arial;">avalanche,</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> our main roads and villages are not in avalanche run out zones so Black does not apply. If an aspect is RED in the forecast then go to the pub or climbing wall or find a nice safe low level walk or ski run.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">
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<span style="color: orange;"><b><span style="background-color: #cccccc;">Orange</span> </b></span> If the rose is all orange then in my view its just the same as red, just a tad less obvious. You have a very high chance of getting whacked. Stick some localised Orange risk in among yellow, then it becomes 50/50 and that's scary uncertainty, as some folk think they can recognise the danger hot spots and avoid them. Maybe they can, but then maybe not. Its certainly dicing with the big white avalanche room. This would be</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> low angled slope day for me, well away from run out areas. The more times you roll the dice in the orange/considerable risk zone then the more chance you won't be needing your old age pension. 50/50 isn't odds, its worse than Russian Roulette!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">
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<span style="color: yellow;"><b style="background-color: #cccccc;">Yellow</b></span> maybe a 40% of getting away with it, but victim triggered death is still very likely if you hit a hot spot and it propagates into something bigger. Even if smaller avalnches can be lethal especially if it takes you into a terrain trap. This is true of all terrain features you can end up in if avalanched.<br>
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<span style="color: lime;"><b style="background-color: #cccccc;">Green</b></span> Well, either its the best of Scottish neve and you should be climbing with the axe and crampons in blue skies, or be getting the lawn mower out. If its the best of Scottish neve and its a sunless aspect then watch out next time it snows as there's could to be something growing on the top surface like hoar or faceting that will give a higher avalanche risk when it next snows fi its early winter especially.<br><br>
<b>Piss or get off the pot</b><br>Only one thing is for sure, we can only manage uncertainty up to a point. We live in a chaotic universe, bad things happen to good people, and a lot of good things happen to good people as a reward for getting out there making the effort. I think we have to accept that the line between the best day skiing of your life, and getting taken out by a slide is pretty close if you want to ride the powder days on higher angled slopes. If you don't accept that take up another sport. We can reduce risk by managing uncertainty, and reduce consequences by equipment and terrain choices. Avalanche prediction and avoidance will never be 100% accurate. I am told knitting is pretty safe, if you prefer a more sedate pastime with a surer risk assessment.<br>
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<b>Avalanche Types and Uncertainty</b><br>
Some types of avalanche are more predictable i.e "certain" and some less so and some types of avalanche risk can be more easily seen in tests and observations. The ones that concern us the most are the least predictable with the greatest uncertainty so require extreme caution. Windlsab is the biggest enemy. Have a think about the following:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><ul><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Aspects</b> that might be affected from a weather forecast, and very importantly observed wind direction </span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Angle</b> of slope based on contours, precipitation type and deposition </span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Altitude,</b> and what the precipitation is, and its likely rate of deposition </span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Anchored</b> to. Whts under the snow, based on summer knowledge of your ski patrol/local area. Or avalanche forecasts that mention surface or deeper instabilities within the snow pack.</span></li></ul></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Wet snow release triggering a weakly anchored slope</span><br><br></span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i><b>Powerful wet snow glide avalanche that takes </b><b>everything in its path. Buachaille Etive above Lagangarbh. You don't want to be in here if its raining during a thaw just after a big snowfall.</b></i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;">Persistent slab, skier triggered slab March 30th 2013 Glencoe Mountain Ski Area - Fatal</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><br></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Organised rescue teams use RECCO which is harmonic radar that can also be used from a helicopter. RECCO is a standard search tool by mountain rescue in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe.</st1:place> Three Scottish mountain rescue teams, and threes ski patrol's use it. No search and rescue helicopters have adopted it in the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">UK</st1:place></st1:country-region> for avalanche rescue to date, but the hand held can be used from a helicopter with an adaptor system from a 3rd party manufacturer. I have one here in Glencoe as I am also the UK trainer for Recco.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><br></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7zQAKBPzJiRqI2eHYMtyyIg3K_suVHOBpFtme-g5XZfLoL-D25IxZULpBLdo4wxV17oAnt-0Z7iMDQDsQuVKIsObL8MKEMY0RhwTU7DpqLsEf70PVS-DhLCh34rA0RXHAOfpNMXEVfA/s1600/3+.jpg"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial";">A skier going off piste or touring in the mountains should carry three essential items. A transceiver to be located, or to locate a buried companion, a collapsible snow probe to confirm the victim’s location, and a strong aluminium shovel to dig them out quickly.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial";">Recovery of buried companions in an avalanche is time critical with a 90% survival if victims are located and dug out within less than 15 minutes. After this time survival is very poor. It follows that practise in locating and digging out a victim is critical. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><br></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRatInZqrMPmFt-N9u4uLgQZANzrTZZzEX8Llrfx01YWb89JpUKrW2uC450qJls9n3dXiLaaVbzv_krK2kgi4AIsJRdQ9ybwRvE9hmdSrHhUqNfMC0uQ1D-1CJ__J4pPIjuxXL1_K-oZk/s1600/DSCN0079.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRatInZqrMPmFt-N9u4uLgQZANzrTZZzEX8Llrfx01YWb89JpUKrW2uC450qJls9n3dXiLaaVbzv_krK2kgi4AIsJRdQ9ybwRvE9hmdSrHhUqNfMC0uQ1D-1CJ__J4pPIjuxXL1_K-oZk/w586-h265/DSCN0079.JPG" width="586"></span></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Killin Mountain Rescue and a group of Freeride skiers using the Glencoe Mountain Avalanche training park</span><br><br></span></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Q5LGZc7pQW5ZdN0FOy_z7Uxpopiu_BQgHISSx9m8dOdskUp7E_iIl7-7AiZfhXaaU1EpYSi4VSt5fzlalwtFYdsMkERpDBf7JVI5BBKMfQH0-401nz4hac8nwvwcbbKmC_60rbFJHQk/s2751/RECCO_logo.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="2751" height="73" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Q5LGZc7pQW5ZdN0FOy_z7Uxpopiu_BQgHISSx9m8dOdskUp7E_iIl7-7AiZfhXaaU1EpYSi4VSt5fzlalwtFYdsMkERpDBf7JVI5BBKMfQH0-401nz4hac8nwvwcbbKmC_60rbFJHQk/w176-h73/RECCO_logo.png" width="176"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="http://www.recco.com/the-recco-system">Recco</a> is another important part of the organised rescue strategy. Education and avalanche avoidance is primary, being found early by companions if it goes wrong is vital, and prior practice makes this work. Organised rescue requires a triple response: Dogs, Recco and Probe Lines. Survival is time critical. Much has been made of trauma being the main factor in poor survival in Scottish avalanches. Largely based on a few tragic avalanche incidents where trauma has been the dominant factor.<br><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Anecdotal observations and opinions make easy to forget the victims where <a href="http://users.south-tyrolean.net/avalanche/e/res02_e.html">triple"H"syndrome</a> has been the killer, of which there have been many over the last decades. Anecdote is not enough, and there is no data from coronial studies in <st1:place w:st="on">Scotland to support the Trauma versus Triple H debate.</st1:place></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Being searchable and located quickly increases survival. Some Scottish MR teams already have Recco as part of their search strategy (Tayside, Glencoe, Cairngorm MRT's) and Glencoe Ski Patrol. There has been a demand for buying two single Recco reflectors to carry by mountaineers. One in a front pocket and one in back (on the person. never the rucksack or ski). Reflectors are light, passive requiring no battery and small. For the burdened winter mountaineer already with a heavy pack it provides a cheaper and lighter option than shovel, probe and beacon.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">I can imagine nothing worse than a victim recovery delayed because a search team did not have a Recco detector and the victim when recovered is found to have either a Recco reflector or a harmonic like a mobile phone on them. Recco detectors are of course for "organised rescue". Recco and the many clothing manufacturers who sew in the Recco relflectors, endorse the view that not getting avalanched through education and training is best. However, in the real world shit still happens, and unless someone is "searchable" a rescuer cannot find them quickly. Even if the poor victim has bottomed out of the survival curve a vistim recovered quickly reduces rescuer risk exposure, and provides some closure to waiting family. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><u style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; font-family: arial; font-weight: bolder; text-align: start;">How does a Recco Reflector work?</u></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><u style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; font-family: arial; font-weight: bolder; text-align: start;"><br></u></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: arial;"><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">Professional rescuers can <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">quickly pinpoint a buried reflector-equipped person’s precise location </span>using harmonic radar. Often quicker than a transceiver.</li></ul><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #292b2c;"><br></span></div><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">This two-part system consists of a RECCO R9 detector used by professional rescue groups, and RECCO reflectors that are attached to clothing, helmets, protection gear, and boots worn by skiers, mountaineers and riders and other outdoor users.</li></ul><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">When used in conjunction with a RECCO Detector, <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">the reflector's diode mixer acts as a harmonic generator </span>to produce multiples of the frequencies received from the detectors.</li></ul><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">The returned signal is translated into an audio tone whose volume is proportional to the returned signal, and by means of volume control, a trained rescue operator can literally go straight to the buried reflector once a signal is detected.</li></ul><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">It is a <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">non-powered device</span> meaning that it never needs to be switched on, <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">will never lose signal strength</span> and needs<span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;"> no batteries to function</span>. It is <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">maintenance free</span> and has a virtually <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">unlimited life.</span></li></ul><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;">In total more than <span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">900+ search & rescue organizations</span> in the world endorse it.</li></ul><div style="text-align: left;"><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #292b2c;">The Recco Rescue System is different from an </span><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;"><span style="color: black;">Avalanche Transceiver</span></span><span style="color: #292b2c;"> because its a small band-aid size sticky transponder which is not powered, the reflector can be applied to your boots or helmet, the Recco detector does not contain any antennas and cannot be picked up by an avalanche beacon, the Recco detector has a range of over 200 metres which professional mountain rescue teams can pick up in the case of an avalanche.</span></p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;">Due to it not being a passive device the reflector will not lose signal strength and no battery to malfunction. </p></div></span></div></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">We should not forget Robert Burnett's remarkable twenty two hour survival in the Southern Cairngorms. All victims surely deserve the benefit of the doubt, with rescuers throwing all resources at an attempt at a a live recovery.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCriBwiIgi8Bu3GuCTeB1aI596TBefF4Kiy1mIuuyEqosZAs6snaU7_EryoVrhXFwFzIwdBMmotJUpjj-Oj_8tRP5AGsMmzeF2eIt5qAi2HsevF9yZ5Ycytp0wbAhf4ctyvvkO9RXReGc/s1600/burnett.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCriBwiIgi8Bu3GuCTeB1aI596TBefF4Kiy1mIuuyEqosZAs6snaU7_EryoVrhXFwFzIwdBMmotJUpjj-Oj_8tRP5AGsMmzeF2eIt5qAi2HsevF9yZ5Ycytp0wbAhf4ctyvvkO9RXReGc/w306-h400/burnett.jpg" width="306"></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;">Robert Burnett - 22 hours Buried. Pic courtesy of Hamish MacInnes<br><br></span></i></b><b style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: left;">A really good summary of this pretty miraculous survival on the web site </span></span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="http://reccoprofessionals.wordpress.com/2011/12/30/buried-22-hrs-scotland-1964/#more-453" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">RECCO Proffessionals</a></span></b></div></b></span><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></i></b></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br></span></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9GlZexQZW-Fnamkma36gmHC37M2YDQofjVvcQsdp7uQX67tHoHV_aIxefF1bYfDCPLv__nsFhNK0bCh11J8trQb99XVkQEdXA1Jx9hrcokjcUmoz0Z8NzrtfE2_3vf2sELDVi3s1MH0/s2048/Recco.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1147" data-original-width="2048" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9GlZexQZW-Fnamkma36gmHC37M2YDQofjVvcQsdp7uQX67tHoHV_aIxefF1bYfDCPLv__nsFhNK0bCh11J8trQb99XVkQEdXA1Jx9hrcokjcUmoz0Z8NzrtfE2_3vf2sELDVi3s1MH0/w400-h224/Recco.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The hand held R9 Recco detector is the size and weight of a hard back book and easy for rescuers to get to the scene and search with.</span><br><br></span></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2rDVHxPm6GusbAAE72mkxUd9slczzOnQy_PzPFzixDnhnyQ_SoYWK1XGC1OTFjIPxARULrTDHNWEKGnHPQDYt30_gc1ryg05NypSEIBV2WDqMcT8lQV04Chp5c9uYESrivy1Pg1kK_6s/s2048/Recco+SAR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1178" data-original-width="2048" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2rDVHxPm6GusbAAE72mkxUd9slczzOnQy_PzPFzixDnhnyQ_SoYWK1XGC1OTFjIPxARULrTDHNWEKGnHPQDYt30_gc1ryg05NypSEIBV2WDqMcT8lQV04Chp5c9uYESrivy1Pg1kK_6s/w400-h230/Recco+SAR.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;">The underslung Recco SAR pod picture right. Searches 200x200m in a minute and the above Austrian crew hadsjust recovered a victim located with it. <br><br>Recco Helicopter based SAR is based at these sites, with more added including a prospective private North of England site soon:</span><br><br></i></b><ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #292b2c; font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px; text-align: start;"><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Switzerland</span> – Zermatt, Sion</li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Italy</span> – Aosta, Bozen, Trento</li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Austria</span> – Hohenems, Innsbruck, Linz, Graz</li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Norway</span> – Alesund, Hastad, </li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Sweden</span> – Ostersund </li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">Canada –</span> Snohomish Helicopter Rescue Team, Snohomish, WA</li><li style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: bolder;">United States – </span>Alpine Helicopters, Canmore AB</li></ul><b><i><br></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGy6zkD2QjKyJPQtnHFWJxYDRQr4I3KU3i8D032-sBl_FHz8_NZ1B6Stq9RnB1dzdo8tRyiQL3PsJqLjr0o0F1_eh3R_km4wL5QTvbPxra_qv3BHGhz7w-WR-di7be7VtOKPPKvO4YqYg/s1600/1.5m+alive.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGy6zkD2QjKyJPQtnHFWJxYDRQr4I3KU3i8D032-sBl_FHz8_NZ1B6Stq9RnB1dzdo8tRyiQL3PsJqLjr0o0F1_eh3R_km4wL5QTvbPxra_qv3BHGhz7w-WR-di7be7VtOKPPKvO4YqYg/s400/1.5m+alive.JPG" width="400"></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Live recovery of a victim located by her Recco reflector</span><br> </span></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8CIyh4JuTyxbotYTO-mlp5iZT7-7N-JUI5NQlkbdnTw44Xs7eDv9ge-8Jv29J-AX0IVkBO6CJbSSLHbH_ABL5Q5oOJ9-uaqjROj-T8K9ibPc50Sujtwo3jbXYIUyDkG9h1Hd9eBidYWo/s1600/Recco+Glencoe.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8CIyh4JuTyxbotYTO-mlp5iZT7-7N-JUI5NQlkbdnTw44Xs7eDv9ge-8Jv29J-AX0IVkBO6CJbSSLHbH_ABL5Q5oOJ9-uaqjROj-T8K9ibPc50Sujtwo3jbXYIUyDkG9h1Hd9eBidYWo/w400-h278/Recco+Glencoe.JPG" width="400"></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Glencoe Ski Patrol doing a precautionary combined 457mhz transceiver search and Recco harmonic search on the "Fly Paper". The R9 detector searches both, and at close range can find many other harmonic devices such as mobile phones.</span><br></span><br></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><br></div></div>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-36391822755027821262023-11-28T11:30:00.004+00:002023-12-06T15:08:32.059+00:00A Slightly Tongue in Cheek Guide to Snow<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Snow science seems to be in vogue
and nothing wrong with that. But - most folk are not avalanche forecasters just
Joe average trying to make good decisions. I like to simplify it when
discussing so here’s a white board session based on a picture taken on an avy course I ran some time ago when the PowerPoint projector failed and I had to cuff it. A good whiteboard session is good as an instructor as you need to know your subject and cant hide behind pictures:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><i></i></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyZ8ASWKyQPZ02qKcpRhOUD3lNR5vW5V0WJcm8L8JC4XppWcruf-_kNfNQeNsVqS7ib9sH_058FofAzFLBRYcQhaa8XrnQzr1UGH2uoyiIt6ZqLKtAYaY9Ep0jB6j_bQkvQVqK7py91puYIjxD27Q-jpitUQUsvI2uzDiY3CyWMigwKTdTL4ZNJcmU=s1528" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1016" data-original-width="1528" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyZ8ASWKyQPZ02qKcpRhOUD3lNR5vW5V0WJcm8L8JC4XppWcruf-_kNfNQeNsVqS7ib9sH_058FofAzFLBRYcQhaa8XrnQzr1UGH2uoyiIt6ZqLKtAYaY9Ep0jB6j_bQkvQVqK7py91puYIjxD27Q-jpitUQUsvI2uzDiY3CyWMigwKTdTL4ZNJcmU=w400-h266" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mountaineers are seldom "searchable"<br />Above "The Gate" below Summit Gully Glencoe<br />Spot Probe Finds x 2 Fatal</span> 😢</span></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;">The avalanche forecast is an area
forecast. The local risk may be different + or –</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Read the forecast and its
nuances, snow pack history and snow profile – and the blog. They have done 80%
of the work for you. You decide the rest</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Terrain choice is a big deal,
Angle, Aspect and Altitude, Complexity, Commitment and Consequences</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Water becomes ice or something
along a continuum</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Snow flakes have branches which break up
if transported by the wind</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">More wind more break up, denser snow pack i.e Slab</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Graupel is not hail which is a laminate, but it is a ball of softish ice. Graupel are ball bearings with similar effects
with new snow laying on top. They eddy into rock features causing local weakness.
Rocks can be Islands of safety or a landmine.</span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The deeper you go down the
snow pack the less cold it gets until at ground level its zero or just
above. Mice shrews and invertebrates live there.</span><span> </span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Water vapour rises through the
snowpack.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Crystals can grow/regrow in cold
conditions either on the surface as hoar or within the snowpack as hoar/crystal regrowth.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Early season shallow snowpacks can be just as lethal as big deep snowpacks as water vapour causes surface hoar which if snowed on become lethal, graupel can be trapped around prominent rocks causing trigger points, or crystal re growth/faceting can occur and get buried. Shallow is just as lethal as deep.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Avalanche forecasters measure the
snow temperature every 10cm. If the temperature is greater than 1c in 10cm
going up the snowpack then the snowpack is getting weaker. Less than 1c in 10cm then overtime the snow pack will eventually get stronger, Strong gradients grow facets, weak gradients
make rounds.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">In rain, thaw and warmer weather crystals
round off sometimes joining to each other</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Wet snow is Water logged snow and
can flow like a concrete river down gullies, corries and obvious slide paths.
Beware spring thaws or after heavy rain.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Wind blown slab snow shears or
collapses on a layer underneath and just like rice crispie's there's a snap,
crackle and pop</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Whump is the sound of air escape
from under the slab, the snap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If it doesn’t
pop go buy a lottery ticket as your lucks in.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Windslab most often requires a
trigger. You are the trigger and in the poop!</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Snow pits should be kept simple. The SAIS and other forecasting services in alpine </span>countries<span> do the heavy lifting. Snow pits and profiles are only relevant for the couple of </span>square<span> meters where you dig. They are good places to take stock, talk and communicate. The data might confirm </span>what<span> you see but also might not. Its just a hole in the snow. The armpit test is fast and repeatable but not definitive. Dig out a small hole and above cut out as deep a column as you can with a ski end, pole or shovel. Pull on it to see if the surface slab is bonded to the underlying snow pack.</span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The progression of survival
probability such as % survival at a given time is a statistic. You could
survive a couple of hours if in the miracle headline survivor group, but more likely
dead from hypoxia unless companions dig you out fast. Bear in mind ski patrollers who can get to fully buried victims in alpine resorts fast, give BLS with fast helicopter access and
ALS from dedicated SAR Docs taking the victims to specialist centre's and even then victims do
not survive to discharge. Your companions are your saviours.</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A shovel is an airway opening
device</span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">If you are not searchable your
fucked</span><span> </span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">That's about it really</span></li></ul><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRiQacNQf9niB5Pq-iHuVTXdxzoZGdEwO-gAdEY7UUrncrqKLGA74MH0RocuAnuBNfvrTCyfRs_w3Sw_-rjfm4LP8TASWU8knErw6LaI4Rdg_yENMXuw3q-y3FIrltCMYpHuNxgzr5cnK9h0eHDxgIxlOo2o_z1R1GbNVpsThHnHz2WvfiyB9Zp1B4/s1000/81Wq9+dqpaL._AC_SL1500_.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="829" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRiQacNQf9niB5Pq-iHuVTXdxzoZGdEwO-gAdEY7UUrncrqKLGA74MH0RocuAnuBNfvrTCyfRs_w3Sw_-rjfm4LP8TASWU8knErw6LaI4Rdg_yENMXuw3q-y3FIrltCMYpHuNxgzr5cnK9h0eHDxgIxlOo2o_z1R1GbNVpsThHnHz2WvfiyB9Zp1B4/s320/81Wq9+dqpaL._AC_SL1500_.jpg" width="265" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7o6M4RfurRXiDCgHPCTBarIx0B2WA-pfx5blmV8HoxPUe69lJuVzshrApK_J_7iKpL7Jy-sjAxa49l1ZA3Cbp85a8LjzgzpNrSvbW2AcLyebLjR3e_Xz-acq1sLrcGxRIEySmemusQLNjg32fFQr70L6N-yn0oTE3Y9ojfsH6pm8V48Du-G272zjT/s1000/2022-Ortovox-29754-AVALANCHE_RESCUE_SET_DIRACT_VOICE-B-01_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="461" data-original-width="1000" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7o6M4RfurRXiDCgHPCTBarIx0B2WA-pfx5blmV8HoxPUe69lJuVzshrApK_J_7iKpL7Jy-sjAxa49l1ZA3Cbp85a8LjzgzpNrSvbW2AcLyebLjR3e_Xz-acq1sLrcGxRIEySmemusQLNjg32fFQr70L6N-yn0oTE3Y9ojfsH6pm8V48Du-G272zjT/w400-h185/2022-Ortovox-29754-AVALANCHE_RESCUE_SET_DIRACT_VOICE-B-01_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><p></p>
Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-33006325889865361672023-10-25T16:38:00.002+01:002023-10-25T16:42:56.178+01:00Snow and Avalanche Safety Equipment from Ortovox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPvvJZo0-4fkeSCDWUgrTzQRR5NU2AMGbRjP_R6Ev5AkGAFeV_g_gxbw1gIGlssZ6crqqWzvtXeaHA34ixHZbfhU3gXNEanjEIu3eudbV8EyQ_TNKixQYSzrc2wAxez_G6LjspLSgi9uTGvhip-06vvQEihurabRlvulKCUiZEAzGJXq_uEfum2-rnhz4/s944/CKU%20Avy%20Logo.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="944" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPvvJZo0-4fkeSCDWUgrTzQRR5NU2AMGbRjP_R6Ev5AkGAFeV_g_gxbw1gIGlssZ6crqqWzvtXeaHA34ixHZbfhU3gXNEanjEIu3eudbV8EyQ_TNKixQYSzrc2wAxez_G6LjspLSgi9uTGvhip-06vvQEihurabRlvulKCUiZEAzGJXq_uEfum2-rnhz4/w320-h153/CKU%20Avy%20Logo.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>I Sell Ortovox Avalanche Safety Equipment. UK RECCO Representative and Trainer</b></span></div><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; text-align: justify;">It’s that time of year again. We anticipate winter and its many
false starts before we finally get going on the skins, ice tools or uplift.
Backcountry/Side country skiing has grown its market share as folk want to earn
their turns or be away exploring. Uplift and ski resorts are the slingshot
getting folks high and fast before skinning away to summits or dropping into
bowls or gullies. Some stay ski area inbound and some folk go outbound. A lot
of the “side country” skiers are resort skiers who may have acquired few mountain
skills and may not be “searchable” (Recco Strip and/or Beacon). Serious backcountry
tourers tend to be mountaineers, be more avalanche aware, and will be more likely
have the essential three items of shovel, probe, and avalanche beacon, and so
be searchable and rescue capable. No matter how you play it, more and more folk are exploring all
aspects of the ski areas, not just frontside. With that comes the inevitable
consequence of the aspect, angle and precipitation posing a risk to the less mountain aware, less experienced folks who
are not avalanche aware and so perhaps more incidents. Be it near misses or unfortunately sad events.</span></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNJFG7zqAJxF-fmmZJBwpxaXN9n5NYHRjtOWj-IyvX4rk8hknS1YaLYgwv_3VK3Bc_ajvYx6QxhN8dL1D5WyjdTQs3zZYlAi3Faymog72gEu4zCnfZ53LjQjf8uLxBZul8wTi_CZ0s_cIfxnfqxqe38v-vEmrg28ShMWRyb1-cvdafkaYEUxUnINAUUY/s1080/Screenshot_20221130-212121.png" style="clear: right; float: right; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="1080" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNJFG7zqAJxF-fmmZJBwpxaXN9n5NYHRjtOWj-IyvX4rk8hknS1YaLYgwv_3VK3Bc_ajvYx6QxhN8dL1D5WyjdTQs3zZYlAi3Faymog72gEu4zCnfZ53LjQjf8uLxBZul8wTi_CZ0s_cIfxnfqxqe38v-vEmrg28ShMWRyb1-cvdafkaYEUxUnINAUUY/w320-h169/Screenshot_20221130-212121.png" width="320" /></a><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt; text-align: justify;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Now is the time to dig out the search tools. Check your avy beacon, fit
new batteries and get familiar with it again (use three antenna beacons only –
bin the two antenna or old analog). Even consider upgrading older three
antenna ones that have had daily seasonal use for more than five years. If you
upgrade don’t go too fancy. You can’t go wrong with something like the Ortovox
3+ or "Diract". Avalanche beacons like all technology evolve. In the last year
some of the new beacons coming on the market have much faster signal
acquisition and processing. Newer models have much better signal separation,
GPS to keep you going forward and the “flag/mark” feature is much more reliable
if it’s a multiple burial. This makes locating multiple victims easier. But
they still need dug out, and unless you have many hands with shovels then you
may be better excavating the first one found fast rather than all of them slow.
Personally my take is that unless you have more than four folk with shovels on
the surface don’t spread your resources until you have the first located
victims face exposed, some of the chest clear and started resuscitation. Some
research has shown that airway management with ventilation and if possible,
chest compressions should begin immediately, even when the victim is still
partially buried. See link to Scandinavian Journal of Trauma Resuscitation and
Emergency Medicine paper below.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGduKoR8NTF7WYlnzYvmjb2eARKJWtvu5Sn8P0KIGw9umjrlZvs52OPx2_49GS3X1s-t2YQ2tOq9MD_aYopxvNGWl0cCNKMYrZT3pHJow0Tjx2Ry1GJIX0hRJ0WaYyP7OaIA9aEyghec/s1200/11410-diract_voice-d-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGduKoR8NTF7WYlnzYvmjb2eARKJWtvu5Sn8P0KIGw9umjrlZvs52OPx2_49GS3X1s-t2YQ2tOq9MD_aYopxvNGWl0cCNKMYrZT3pHJow0Tjx2Ry1GJIX0hRJ0WaYyP7OaIA9aEyghec/w236-h236/11410-diract_voice-d-01.jpg" width="236" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">New avalanche beacons such as the Ortovox “Diract” are now coming with
useful features such as voice prompts, re chargeable Li Ion batteries, hardware
checking via a phone app and via the app software updates to future proof them.
The curse of the “auto revert” from an inactive rescuer during training or during the
real deal is now less of a problem with a beacon standby mode prompt when you go back from search to transmit,
or if searching when a light sensor on the display gets covered it puts the
beacon back to transmit.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Its sensible to have a longer probe if you can fit it in your pack. Most
ski specific day rucksack sleeves only take a 240cm probe, although touring
rucksacks are bigger. I find a 280cm carbon probe in my day sack a good
compromise. MRT and Ski Patrol should have some 3m+ probes for when the
companion rescue phase is taken over by rescuers. It used to be assumed that
folk buried deeper than the 240cm had a poorer chance of survival. In fact,
it’s only poor as it depends how fast they are dug out and with less
people and fatigue that remains partially true. Ski patrol, mountain rescue
should be able to have lots of diggers available. With strategic digging methods and enough rescuers folks are now getting dug out alive from 4m+. </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmjpxEz2HgSVoKtuEyQqm1H5TYY1gI9g7dHaCvmm0vmR6B37Y51OZPC_Yohyphenhyphens9HMXBHGWeZLJ-7PUBiYbQu8QqxdMoiaP6dolof6DPUxw80ndJXKtE2mNghMMxDROlCDYiNKhK5Ogu_k/s900/666974d2-e474-4aed-97de-cc416d16312aPROBE-CARBON-280-PFA-22441-HiRes.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="900" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmjpxEz2HgSVoKtuEyQqm1H5TYY1gI9g7dHaCvmm0vmR6B37Y51OZPC_Yohyphenhyphens9HMXBHGWeZLJ-7PUBiYbQu8QqxdMoiaP6dolof6DPUxw80ndJXKtE2mNghMMxDROlCDYiNKhK5Ogu_k/w262-h246/666974d2-e474-4aed-97de-cc416d16312aPROBE-CARBON-280-PFA-22441-HiRes.jpg" width="262" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Avalanche rescue is also a logistics issue requiring delegation and
leadership as well as regular training and skills practice. Realistic scenarios
get teams or groups working together and well drilled. If the victim has no
beacon transmitting, or Recco reflectors then its avalanche dogs early on
scene, or probe searching. Probing the slowest of all methods to find a victim. Probing requires more rescuers and good line
discipline. Initially it may be members of the public co-opted (if deemed safe)
spot probing while rescuers carry out beacon and Recco sweeps. MRT and SARDA
should be on the way ASAP. Survival is best with the “all in” approach where
every search method is called in and deployed as soon as possible. Formal probe
lines are like herding cats. Fail to practice this and you plan to fail. It’s a
neglected area which is why rescuers need to practice.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It remains that the most effective
airway opening device is a good shovel in the hands of someone who’s not work
shy. A memorable example was local builder Brian MacDermott a member of
Lochaber Mountain Rescue who I witnessed shift more snow in a short space of
time than 4 other rescuers in a multiple victim event in the Great Gully of
Buachaille Etive. We normal folk can achieve similar as a group by employing a conveyor
and using a more strategic organised approach to digging. The tool needs to be
an alu shovel with a wide blade and extendable handle such as the Ortovox Pro
Alu III. It’s also useful if it can convert to a hoe as sometimes those in a
conveyor behind the front person are better to be pulling the snow away from the front digger.</span><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzkfUHBmIt7nCp_iCrwwInUM76jqBa_9IKvzmxByyc95h_apA0ez9_E5bZv8lApxK55nkaittmVOYP2eVtxa03bLVgBnpzWeM_y08LSAlA4iux_MZBKotb3Hs_RLgWeG_Lf77rqv9Fw10/s1000/ortovox-pro-alu-3-shovel-p27840-65032_image.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzkfUHBmIt7nCp_iCrwwInUM76jqBa_9IKvzmxByyc95h_apA0ez9_E5bZv8lApxK55nkaittmVOYP2eVtxa03bLVgBnpzWeM_y08LSAlA4iux_MZBKotb3Hs_RLgWeG_Lf77rqv9Fw10/w250-h250/ortovox-pro-alu-3-shovel-p27840-65032_image.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">While we wait for the snow to arrive there is plenty for us to train and
probably not enough time to do it all. But it can be a sociable time and a good
mental preparation for a season that’s not just going to be unpredictable for
its weather, but also from a snow hungry public with time to make up and
perhaps less risk averse. The pieces to be picked up by rescuers.</span></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;"><br /></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;"><br /></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;"></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qbajQOc3CFaP0D3cvEEXula8QaOxOIEt4jljBcr3HvNWCa1o1ij_bYGKsKh1J5sWvYIw48l4v6lGgRH5UZ7lNGlSMh0zBrl9gWS5CtJU64Pd3AXMxmOPuP485gbecusC8OwS0pwtDzHlq2_Qw39dDwYY4WdZR1CjicNT8mZRhy1n3oOaNZhioWCnalg/s2048/Avalanche_rescue_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qbajQOc3CFaP0D3cvEEXula8QaOxOIEt4jljBcr3HvNWCa1o1ij_bYGKsKh1J5sWvYIw48l4v6lGgRH5UZ7lNGlSMh0zBrl9gWS5CtJU64Pd3AXMxmOPuP485gbecusC8OwS0pwtDzHlq2_Qw39dDwYY4WdZR1CjicNT8mZRhy1n3oOaNZhioWCnalg/w400-h300/Avalanche_rescue_01.jpg" width="400" /></a></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">For all you mountaineers out there. "Be Searchable" if your pushed for money or carrying the full winter climbing kit and no space for more kit then at least consider a couple of RECCO reflectors. £40 that might either save your life, or a rescuers life as they are not exposed for longer than necessary to avalanche risk - and they may actually find you. Several Scottish MRT's and Ski Patrol have Recco R9 detectors as this is part of the standard "all available search tools" immediately deployed to an avalanche scene as per International Alpine Rescue protocols. A Helicopter airborne Recco search capablity is currently under way in the North of England as it can search huge areas very fast as the detector looks down from the sky. Also drone technolgy for deployment is also now possible. If you require any information on RECCO please contact me as I am the UK Trainer and rep.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://recco.com/global-network/"><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">https://recco.com/global-network/</span></b></a></div><p></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0Glencoe, Ballachulish PH49, UK56.682559899999987 -5.102271328.372326063821141 -40.2585213 84.992793736178839 30.053978700000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-51040766758615615012023-09-08T08:00:00.020+01:002023-09-08T08:56:26.917+01:00Peter Pan and A Lost Boy<span style="font-family: times;">The philosopher and author Jordan Peterson a contentious writer who I seldom agree with on some issues but aptly describes a <a href="https://youtu.be/SGGIN3nQ5kQ">"Peter Pan" effect</a> when boys don't grow into men by their mid 20's and take personal responsibility for the direction of their lives. He's quite a contentious philosopher but there is much truth in what he says of boys to men. He hints that when men do come out of being a "lost boy" (some of us had to grow into manhood much, much quicker than that) its ok to rediscover the freewheeling attitude of youth, try different new things or throw yourself back into old things with gusto. Basically get some youth back into your old bones and soul. I guess I'm a bit like that now much to the amusement of my family.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cloughs Cleft E25b</span></b> </i></td></tr>
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Climbing re-discovered for me was and is my late life Peter Pan effect, I think. I have been among the mountains and trying to be a climber since I was maybe 13 years old. Not always very successfully as an early rescue of myself and friends proved when at 16 years old Hamish and the team rescued us from the icy North Face of Aonach Dubh when I was left at the end of the frozen rope in an icy gully. Mountain Rescue involvement was long part of that growing as a person as at that time it was a small rescue team very strapped for cash. It was where all active local mountaineers migrated to or were co opted to help out. Rescues were a moral obligation and often there just were not enough team members, and it was the only way someone was going to be recovered. This only really changed in the mid 1980's. The only way it could happen was if the local or visiting mountaineers went out and made up a rescue team. Folk were called up by phone, grabbed out the bar or co opted when up staying with a friend on a climbing trip. Often these were among the best mountaineers of their generation and from Glencoe School of Winter Mountaineering. It was in effect also a climbing club. As a young lad learning to become a mountaineer and having a love of the mountains could be overshadowed by tragedy and a normalisation of dealing with that. Putting somebody in a body bag at the foot of a route then climbing the same route at some future point and with a smile on your face because you had enjoyed it seemed ok. So I suppose like other lads in Highland Glens who took to climbing, the two things, MR and Climbing ran in parallel and were a little bit firewalled from each other. Although making the same mistake on "Big Top" as a climber who we knew was killed by not extending the runner on the bulge and step on the last pitch was thought provoking, as was the fact it had started raining hard while literally hauling the rope a bit at a time to the top. Character building. </span></div>
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I always thought that was ok as it never stopped me exploring and climbing some of the hardest routes of that time. Over that forty five or so years, forest work, falls and accidents took its toll a bit. Crippling back injuries, chainsaw cuts and broken bones, a debilitating chronic illness and also some mental health issues from trauma and tragedy, not all MR related all at one point came to a head and I turned my back to the mountains and hated them. When an old back injury came back to haunt me and I couldn't walk I sold all my climbing gear. That was it over with the mountains as places that take too much - or that was how it seemed.<br />
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I was on my first rescue at 15 years old and on reflection the early years were a golden period where tragedy was never permitted mentors to interfere with the climbing as they were climbers and mountaineers above all else and that was just the price for fucking up or bad luck. I would be very wary of allowing my son even now who is a good climber in his mid 20's to be involved in what is now a more organized but not necessarily a better mountain rescue service. I think firstly team members need to become good climber/mountaineers for themselves before allowing the mountains to show you the dark side on a regular basis. It's too easy to become an addicted rescuer trauma junkie rather than mountaineer who rescues, as it was back when obligated by a small population with few mountaineers and a local necessity to form a rescue party.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVRlw8892_P-r474TVaE2AdV7KbNBHalJBlaK2pxB8XMu6uO56-NdJLSmMS1fVE6fNchm7f8Jgqk4qLFFst4PKI5wKHnFogz2O0982xTpj9kx86cvqXY77aFQS_V9M4k2c0Wk6cnyRQk/s1600/Duncan+1.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1065" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVRlw8892_P-r474TVaE2AdV7KbNBHalJBlaK2pxB8XMu6uO56-NdJLSmMS1fVE6fNchm7f8Jgqk4qLFFst4PKI5wKHnFogz2O0982xTpj9kx86cvqXY77aFQS_V9M4k2c0Wk6cnyRQk/s320/Duncan+1.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A bit of sport fun at Glen Lednock</span></b></i></td></tr>
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These musing are leading somewhere. Its maybe a bit of stream of consciousness stuff. After selling my kit and hating the mountains, five years later and after much rehab I could run again despite a hip impingement picked up on an MRI on my spine and raced my bike and then really got back into ski touring. Due to my son getting the bug again for climbing it got me back up to the wall and training and ending up having to buy some climbing gear. I was really well supported by lifelong friends especially Sean MacNeil who donated his old climbing rack to me. In just about everything I do I try and apply myself to be the best I can. Be it self taught spey casting for salmon, to sport climbing or skiing. If you work hard at it you improve. </span></div>
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Currently I do some core work, yoga stretches and conditioning and follow a basic <a href="https://www.climbstrong.com/" target="_blank">"climbstrong"</a> plan, and despite the years I see progress. There is lot I can't do from old broken bones. I have broken lots of bits and in particular had a head injury and spinal </span>trauma, but I am blessed with strong fingers and arms and I am maintaining and even seeing progress despite the years. Self improvement doesn't stop when you get a free bus pass. Climbing and the mountains re discovered give back that feeling of being part of a unique tribe of wanderers and seekers among or over the high tops, and meeting like minded folk. But also, since Fiona's passing a new perspective and a grace allowing the mountain obsession to not rule as other good people come into your life and share gentler pastimes.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">It's not always about grades although for me, that merely provides a measure of indoor success at the walls and being goal focused it provides a measurable result. While at a wall folk chat about what they have done, where they have been or life in general and its good social. The same is true out at the crags. It's great to enjoy the mountains again and to have forgiven them. They are in the end benign lumps of rock but they allow us space to be free. This quote sums it up better than I can:<br /></span>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #14171a; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>“The secret of the mountain is that the mountains simply exist, as I do myself: the mountains exist simply, which I do not....I ring with life, and the mountains ring, and when I can hear it, there is a ringing that we share” <b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Peter Matthiessen, The Snow Leopard</span></b></i></span></span></div>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-8445835017787334242023-07-16T14:50:00.002+01:002023-07-16T17:27:25.385+01:00A Guides Tale<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><p class="MsoNormal">When to the sessions of sweet silent thought<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">I summon up remembrance of things past,<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">I sigh the lack of many a thing I sought,<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">And with old woes new wail my dear time’s waste …<o:p></o:p></p><p style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium;">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><i>Shakespeare Sonnet 30</i></b></p></span></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Back in the day ..........</b></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;"><b><br /></b></span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">Guiding was as yet confined to few
within the Glen and these few mostly in the employ of the old fox or his 2ic
Ian Nicholson. Many were on an ad hoc basis recruited when business was brisk.
Notables being the likes of Fyffe or Spence or maybe Dave Knowles when he was
about.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">At that time I was a mere youth as
yet not tempered by attempting hard men’s climbs and harder drinking in the wee
snug after hours. One climb above all
was revered by us fresh youths, both from behind and in front of the bar. This
was partly out of convenience. Like the hindquarters of an elephant as eloquently
described by Bill Murray, it started only 10 minutes from the bar door. “The
Gully” could be accomplished either solo before twelve thirty Sunday opening,
or roped between two thirty and six thirty, usually by a mixed company of
barman/maid and customer. It is fair to say “the gully” was well known to us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">Walking down the village one
Saturday a passing car stopped and wound down its window with the driver asking
if I knew of a local guide for hire. A
couple of names were passed to him and the chosen route asked. When the reply came that it was none other
than “the gully” I felt compelled to offer my services – for a reasonable fee
of course.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">So it was that I was hired, but not
before my clients revealed that they were a professional couple, betrothed, and
in addition they belonged to a “socialist mountaineering club” (The Red Rope)
and as such were happy to support the local proletariat but not at excessive
cost. We settled on a less than princely sum, perhaps due to my obvious youth
and assumed lack of experience. I went home to collect my climbing gear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">My kit at that time was by modern
standards very meagre, but at 17 years old, dances, Ceilidhs and girls took
priority. So it was that I as a junior bergfuhrer assembled my rack at the foot
of the gully. 200’ No 2 Viking nylon
donated by Robin Turner after an abseil lesson of his cottage roof, a pair of
new Lionel Terray boots from Hamish, as the originals had been stolen from
Kingshouse after a rescue in Ravens Gully that winter when I took them off to
go in the lounge bar (under the watchful eye of the proprietor Jim Lee), and
the most modern harness of its age – the ubiquitous Whillans. This along with a
set of nuts made by clog attached to wire hawser, a selection of pegs and
several slings in bright pink tape concluded the ironmongery for the ascent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">It had not rained for a month but
never the less it would not have occurred to me to wear rock boots, even though
I had a pair of EB’s donated to me by Sandy Whillans a local policeman. The gully is a boot climb. That’s how Bill Murray did it and you always
follow in the footsteps of the master, don’t you?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">We started the gully at its root via
a pitch shown to me only the Sunday before by one of the barmen. This pitch is walked
passed by most but I thought that as I was getting paid for the job in hand
then a refund might be requested should all available rock not be included in
the ascent. It went very well, with the pair climbing very fast and alarmingly
competently in parallel on the twin No 2 weight Nylon ropes. During conversation it became apparent that
proper guides were hired on a regular basis by the couple – indeed the previous
weekend a “proper” guide had been secured in the Llanberis pass for the same
rate as I, and three of the classics of the pass, including the renowned
“Wrinkle” had been successfully ascended.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">By now the haze of morning had
becoming a black menacing shroud of afternoon, and soon the occasional very
large plop of rain fell. By this time we
had passed the lower greenery and were in the more austere surroundings of the
crux slab above the “<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Great</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Cave</st1:placetype></st1:place>”. The atmosphere was
oppressive and clearly it was going to become very wet. We passed a road sign
saying “ice” complete with metal post, put
there the previous year by some pranksters on a fresher’s weekend. The slab was climbed and soon we were at the
redoubtable “Jericho Wall” which at that time was pitch 7 or 8 of the roped pitches if you include the
lowest pitch. I regaled them with stories of daring doo and an account of the
early history of the gully, plus of course a few rescue stories to enhance the
atmosphere. It clearly had the desired
effect as they were keen to push on and seemed apprehensive to say the least.
This was further heightened when the rain started and they realised we were in
for a deluge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">The pressure was on, but could the
aspirant bergfurher pull it out the bag without needing the services of the
rescue team? Absolutely - afterburners
on it was all go with each subsequent pitch dispatched at full speed with a
full blown thunderstorm breaking around us.
With drowning and falling as a combined incentive the pair climbed well
despite being visibly terrified, so all credit to them as I was feeling a burden
of responsibility beyond my years. We
topped out after a 5 hour ascent, 30 odd pitches, over 1,700 feet of climbing
and in a reasonable time for a roped
party of three. Some parties have taken
upwards of 14 hours and in one case 2 full days. For us all that
remained was the knee wrecker down to the pub and a beer by the fire.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">Two hours later as a bedraggled crew we
arrived at the pub. They reluctantly
bought me a beer as I was underage but complemented
me on a fine though short day. As the
day was shorter than they had in the famous Llanberis pass, and the climbing
deemed inferior they had discussed the fee and felt that it should be
halved. So it was that barely enough
cash for an evening “session” was handed over to the naive bergfurher, who
there and then decided that the peoples flag was brightest pink and not as red
as he might think. </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">Guiding might not be for him after
all.</span></div>
Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-16440868042392599492023-07-16T10:14:00.030+01:002023-07-16T15:03:40.657+01:00The Long Road Home. Quite a Tale!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCuv8YEiuGh7np8Hi4qkU9uSzJVQCgeV4aUHn5eELzjK_i5lNdz1KvYFpx27UbZ6-Cn5kyDdypO0MQ2iiiiKFL1lP0cMgkTYi2Gpfs0bK9dC_IrUi3fExHJubVsV7KCm1DGYQ0IJDHyk/s1600/Dad+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCuv8YEiuGh7np8Hi4qkU9uSzJVQCgeV4aUHn5eELzjK_i5lNdz1KvYFpx27UbZ6-Cn5kyDdypO0MQ2iiiiKFL1lP0cMgkTYi2Gpfs0bK9dC_IrUi3fExHJubVsV7KCm1DGYQ0IJDHyk/s200/Dad+1.jpg" width="141" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Angus "Angie" Gunn my Father</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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My father as well as many local men from North Argyll and Oban fought with the Argylls and the Norfolks of the 51st Highland Division at the rear guard action of St Valery which sacrificed thousands of men, partly so that Dunkirk was a success. They fought on hard against Rommel's troops for many days after Dunkirk was over and done with before surrender 12th June. This sacrifice was not acknowledged until 50 years later. Possibly because it was contentious and an embarrassment to Churchill. The privations of "the long walk" both to the salt mines and logging camps in Silesia, then escaping the Russians back west at the wars end cost many Highlanders lives.</div>
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<i>Audio Interview With the Three Escapee's</i> <a href="https://youtu.be/pEk-B5JQhBM"><b>https://youtu.be/pEk-B5JQhBM</b></a></div>
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<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Information on the Sty Valery Surrender and its lead up </i><a href="https://51hd.co.uk/history/valery_1940"><b>https://51hd.co.uk/history/valery_1940</b></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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The three men in this story showed remarkable initiative and this story is worthy of any Hollywood movie. As a wee boy I remember "the blood" telling the tale at a Glencoe Village Hall Celeidh and also my Dad and "Ginger" talking about the war up at the Elliots Cottage where we would go at New Year. From what I gathered in conversation I don't think it was as easy as this understated interview leads you to suspect. And of course things occurred that are best not in print. It was war after all.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-jS9q5iDEEBGP1SJr9IQS2W5xFwBm1-fnilbErBUVxhIcdhMJpSrBl5OZmGf3EFHhGj-K1CbQUY2Uh85wyfsokYLWsHo4P-Qcr0gpG53dIXtCuBWOIOE82XnX7gik8MsvgjspcG6yn4/s1600/Musketeers3img039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-jS9q5iDEEBGP1SJr9IQS2W5xFwBm1-fnilbErBUVxhIcdhMJpSrBl5OZmGf3EFHhGj-K1CbQUY2Uh85wyfsokYLWsHo4P-Qcr0gpG53dIXtCuBWOIOE82XnX7gik8MsvgjspcG6yn4/s640/Musketeers3img039.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-82165641903337745112023-06-27T09:14:00.068+01:002023-06-27T23:06:48.446+01:00The Black Crow and Feeding the Rat<div style="text-align: justify;"><p style="background: white; margin: 0cm;"><br></p><p style="background: white; margin: 0cm;"><strong></strong></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><strong><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMCACa8qhqYqxzo6v5WQEbjhzGHbtCPdW14GiJP1vqht1E-_sBLt1E38lyQhnMYKfHqqGdlrrcNAP534EFgF1NXVIe5GaGKk6bPBE98RKM3WtEQD0U7I4F5WeYX7gJf8K1Y3o1I0hEMETEisQ_w8MBeGegQyjF5xfFBljrW8RQhXr0DTnp_9A8ewtESs/s750/americancrow0lr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMCACa8qhqYqxzo6v5WQEbjhzGHbtCPdW14GiJP1vqht1E-_sBLt1E38lyQhnMYKfHqqGdlrrcNAP534EFgF1NXVIe5GaGKk6bPBE98RKM3WtEQD0U7I4F5WeYX7gJf8K1Y3o1I0hEMETEisQ_w8MBeGegQyjF5xfFBljrW8RQhXr0DTnp_9A8ewtESs/w225-h320/americancrow0lr.jpg" width="225"></a></strong></div></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;">As we pass the summer solstice I get introspective and undoubtedly feel a change as I am sure we all do. West Highland life is essentially a bit bipolar and can make for a dark season of the soul unless we continue to seek light outside, or inwardly lift ourselves.</span><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div>
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I can tell when it's changing for me as bad dreams occasionally come back with restless muggy nights. A few are mountain related. The randomness of climbing near misses such as a piss poor belay ripping out with 16 stone hanging at the other end and someone holding us both on by the hood of my jacket. Working in the wood and a one ton skyline carriage skiffs past my head as it falls from the sky, or my work mate killed next to me when 150ft of Sitka swings his way and not mine, these all seem random bad luck compared to actual choices in the mountains like the poor belay on offer as no choice, that still gives me the shivers as I visualize flying out over Aonach Dubh. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Climbing mountains has soul and becomes your church and tribe and risk acceptance part of that compensates for adventures heavy price. We all have a Pandora's box and occasionally the lid lifts a bit and this reflective stuff gets out before we jump back on top of it again. The claustrophobia and fear of burial in winter is a recurring one for me when I have a chesty cough or cold that makes breathing hard at night. Hay fever the recent trigger. Youtube and other places where you see avalanche recoveries cannot convey the pressure on your chest and sheer terror of not being able to shift air. No one is unchanged after being buried. Hayfever is an unusual trigger I guess. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2TRjPJVZfzlFF_AJQo3C5P5B8P5jiVLKMNicsP_uQX_ThTDWR5AzJU_1LZ50B39i_xUC5ynJh5_3JnV_D_dspsoHNkRaLbzncdDUEvaF3vTL6lozQ66KkM6cADk8wwMFC_uSbX2nfY4dPfe1onK5ZiKgNGh56mI7Cpmxgp1ZEqWOcRVK4I0HOWR2W-KI/s4080/PXL_20230626_164524132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2TRjPJVZfzlFF_AJQo3C5P5B8P5jiVLKMNicsP_uQX_ThTDWR5AzJU_1LZ50B39i_xUC5ynJh5_3JnV_D_dspsoHNkRaLbzncdDUEvaF3vTL6lozQ66KkM6cADk8wwMFC_uSbX2nfY4dPfe1onK5ZiKgNGh56mI7Cpmxgp1ZEqWOcRVK4I0HOWR2W-KI/w400-h301/PXL_20230626_164524132.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bracken ticks and midgies and soft evening light. Very Highland<br><br></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Seasonal melancholia can be mistaken for mental illness. Which of course it can be. Having downers is pretty normal living here. Its all down to Latitude and dare I say by dropping the "L" how we approach it. We have to hunker down and see it through. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div style="text-align: justify;">We have just had an exceptional spell of dry sunny weather to top up morale and body batteries. Mood is high for a but. Surfing that positive wave with good friends and activities is the way through the troughs to come. Or as I am now considering, moving to where there is more sun. But the West when it delivers is so special and delivers big so it might be Appin not Spain! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div style="text-align: justify;">If not West maybe East or central like Aberfeldy or Callander. Who knows but the positivity of the sun and good company sure helps with moods. I would certainly miss my friend many of whom are new to the area but have been steadfast during a difficult year. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Feeding the adventure rat gnawing away inside is also a good way to help. I started soloing about a bit recently and went a bit old school leaving the phone and not telling anyone to spice it up old school style. I have quickly realised that I don't have the mental resources for this anymore with too many people to live for and love and to miss if it all goes wrong. I'm no longer prepared to pay the heavier price for adventure and so I will stick to well protected trad and clipping. And hugging and beer.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">
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</i><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETq49W889lW6cLkdi1hWzMs7aCk8NGf6vo7HV9MOltqStyHAUJHi7S49UqldPEQUoU6sopoW38uBkr9JQu58l8QOartLXoJ9Q5LZBAaH5m_X3ztAIcLFnmLHen-m5kWRPxndiSBLO6KSEvFDG54lTFT36_YkmFNs8SHjcQCmhpveRRh0wBIYMwzEdvuI/s4080/PXL_20230615_205744708.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETq49W889lW6cLkdi1hWzMs7aCk8NGf6vo7HV9MOltqStyHAUJHi7S49UqldPEQUoU6sopoW38uBkr9JQu58l8QOartLXoJ9Q5LZBAaH5m_X3ztAIcLFnmLHen-m5kWRPxndiSBLO6KSEvFDG54lTFT36_YkmFNs8SHjcQCmhpveRRh0wBIYMwzEdvuI/w400-h301/PXL_20230615_205744708.jpg" width="400"></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Edinburgh midsummer from Gilmerton. Nice!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><i><br></i><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>. </i></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div>
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</div></div>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-69429826181460887712023-05-08T10:00:00.002+01:002023-05-08T13:00:10.434+01:00My Five Favourite Hard Rock Routes in Glencoe<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HOoz7Q-QG0qF3xrWtg34Gfu_yvzg9zGUqU4rjAzk8hK_TD8k-XHluAiwH8Ji4LwiZKQg60lPVN05JM8LbUClMwlhTOLDKCsiAr7vEnGNmsGykN5ToM_EPOd8q5UQjj3CwS5iXVWgmJhJYrpEpXB4A0xnwfC5alXA7ypt9-5wV0k95E6KwCb37IGh/s3663/WWCrack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3663" data-original-width="2566" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HOoz7Q-QG0qF3xrWtg34Gfu_yvzg9zGUqU4rjAzk8hK_TD8k-XHluAiwH8Ji4LwiZKQg60lPVN05JM8LbUClMwlhTOLDKCsiAr7vEnGNmsGykN5ToM_EPOd8q5UQjj3CwS5iXVWgmJhJYrpEpXB4A0xnwfC5alXA7ypt9-5wV0k95E6KwCb37IGh/w280-h400/WWCrack.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Davy White Wall Crack Free HVS 5b </b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">photo Alan Thompson</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT4mob2rKj-9TVZAZLKl97RLOqJ0Yrb7jrGm1CBkz2I3RIMfoAr96K8bzbSWKQogWUxV8jq8PqpxU1Wxfg2Sg3Wuqxj5LnksefeXP5UkyMwIEYxSVnl7Gd7gwvFUdN4qzD9MnJScfeczxpbG8rccGEcxXgzJdeuk0My2PAwGEEBu6OJRgefvSosiZt/s2682/Lineup%20Me.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1881" data-original-width="2682" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT4mob2rKj-9TVZAZLKl97RLOqJ0Yrb7jrGm1CBkz2I3RIMfoAr96K8bzbSWKQogWUxV8jq8PqpxU1Wxfg2Sg3Wuqxj5LnksefeXP5UkyMwIEYxSVnl7Gd7gwvFUdN4qzD9MnJScfeczxpbG8rccGEcxXgzJdeuk0My2PAwGEEBu6OJRgefvSosiZt/w400-h280/Lineup%20Me.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Davy Line Up HVS 5a </b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">photo Alan Thompson</span></i><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Plenty of time on my hands at the moment and it's so dry, so I got to thinking about rock routes that inspired me or made an impact on my climbing be it good or bad. There are quite a lot to sift through and many of the most enjoyable routes have been notable not just by epics or grades but by the people I have shared them with. I also confess that I have always loved climbing in the Lakes and the Peak. I have done a lot also in North Wales but as someone from a Gaelic culture always struggled with the attitude of some of the locals as it was so out of keeping with what I was used to. An example being deliberately speaking to friends in a language they new they couldn't understand. I have never come across that here even in tight knit Island communities where hospitality and courtesy is seen as normal. I have to say that I liked Cloggy though, but always shat it at Gogarth while above the sea!</div>
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There just isn't space here to cover every route that made an impact so I will stick with the ones I literally grew up on before expanding my ambitions a bit more to the Ben, Shelterstone and further afield. Some routes especially when I was a young man, were notable because of the psychological barriers they presented. That was often because myth and an aura of impregnability surrounded them, or in one case because I had been on two fatal rescues on the route where leaders had fallen, and yet it was a classic I wanted to tick (Big Top "E" Buttress). It took me 10 years after the last rescue there to have the courage to climb it. An absolutely stunning big mountain rock climb in outstanding situations and technically not too hard at all. I even managed the pitch that had claimed leaders in a heavy drizzle. The sense of elation at finally laying that itch to rest was pretty heady. Trapeze, Big Top and Hee Haw as a triple in a late afternoon sunset gives the very best of Glencoe rock.</div>
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The harder rock routes of Glencoe for me all had an aura and were shrouded in legend. The names Smith, Marshall, Cunningham and Whillans were all in there, as was Dougal Haston (although Turnspit and Kneepad hardly do him credit) and also home grown hero's such as Thomson and Hardy (Kingpin). My top five to bag in the graded lists were:</div>
<ul>
<li>Big Ride</li>
<li>Gallows</li>
<li>Carnivore</li>
<li>Yo Yo</li>
<li>Shibboleth</li>
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There are others that are also memorable. Bloody Crack or Ravens in summer (a hard little number!) Marshalls Wall or Valkyrie, or maybe Lechers/Superstition which is a fantastic combo. These five above though had the biggest aura so I will work through them although not by chronological order. I have worked from Glen Etive to down Glencoe as per guidebook. Kingpin came when I was much older and wiser and less overawed by who had done what, and is one of the best routes in Scotland. That came 15 years later!</div>
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<b>The Big Ride.</b> Dougal Haston fell off the big ride many times before giving up and producing an inferior line with a tensioned rope traverse called "Frustration". He finally went back and straightened it out to give "The Big Ride" aptly named for the scalps it claimed pre sticky rubber. Alan Fyffe took on a bet that he would shave off half his beard if he fell off it when doing what may have been the second ascent. Sure enough he peeled off the crux going for a 100ft slide and removing a lot of skin and had to comply with the bet. Alan was and remains one of Scotland best mountaineers. Still graded at E3 6a this route still requires some bottle. I did it on the 5th May 1983 with Wall Thomson and Mary Anne his daughter with me leading all the pitches so Wall could look after Mary Anne who was just 15, and also take pictures. I still remember the knack of reading the slab for tiny indents and gently rubbing off any loose grains as the crack of a granite grain under your rock shoe would have you off. The crux is at about 100ft out with no gear up a thin flange where the slab steepens by a few degrees and if you are very careful you can get a micro nut behind it before committing to the last 50 ft. So 150ft one runner and a 6a move takes you to the belay. A mental game!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGOMBJYRfTLtgdkHQC3x75j4JfZPEZjdCluZAu_hzosRigq59uwGCqLsCcst3Ka1_Ko4FZOctElth-jDOD0yWkqU8_Ct9wLMKpUVrVIAi3RgTAT0iG_bPfn3s9lG9TtZ2E2V17lDQ0nA/s1600/DG+Etive+Pier.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGOMBJYRfTLtgdkHQC3x75j4JfZPEZjdCluZAu_hzosRigq59uwGCqLsCcst3Ka1_Ko4FZOctElth-jDOD0yWkqU8_Ct9wLMKpUVrVIAi3RgTAT0iG_bPfn3s9lG9TtZ2E2V17lDQ0nA/s400/DG+Etive+Pier.jpg" width="391" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>At the pier Glen Etive sometime in the 70's I had long hair!</b></td></tr>
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<b>Gallows. </b>I had been climbing with "Wull" on the Buachaille and we were wandering about doing various routes as you can there. I think we had come up from Central Buttress doing a route over there that might have been "Iron Cross". I don't know if its recorded but it was Squirrel club little test piece, then we did Engineers Crack and a route that's called "The Widow". We then went across and did Brevity, and a couple of other HVS routes when John Anderson walked across and suggested I should cut my teeth on Gallows. I hadn't really thought of it - but why not! Although quite short the first few crux moves are about 5c and take you out on a rising traverse for about 50ft before the first bit of gear. So Gallows is a test of bottle and thankfully as well warmed up, and with an audience of Creag Dubh who had come to gloat should I fall off, I managed to piss up it and make a bit of a name for myself. This was in 1982 so forgive me for being chuffed as I daresay its regarded as an easy tick these days. We did a route onto the middle of the top tier after up a thin crack line well right of the corner and it was harder!<br />
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<b>Carnivore.</b> I was beaten to this by Fiona my wife. We climbed very many routes together and she was a pretty able climber. Sadly removal of the lymph glands on one side from breast cancer later scuppered. We lived in Duror when first married and I worked as a woodcutter. To say I was fit and strong would be an understatement. George Reid my regular climbing partner phoned me up to see if I would take the afternoon off and go climb "The Villains Finish" with him. I was away up the wood out of contact so Fiona offered to hold the rope. The back rope on the first traverse pitch jammed on them so they climbed the entire route on a single 9mm which was pretty necky. The Villains finish had a fairly big reputation for being brutal so a good effort. To say I was pissed off would be an understatement. The monsoons came then winter arrived early and so I had to wait until the following year to work off my frustration. I was in a hurry to get it done and so I press ganged a young instructor at the Glencoe outdoor centre to be my rope man. So mid March in a snowstorm I stormed the first pitch. Linked the second two pitches into a one and belayed by Duncan Freeman prepared for the overhanging crack that gives the direct finish. Good rock, but hanging out over big space it's an up out and right move with a stiff 5c pull onto the wall above then a gearless runout to the top at a steady 5a and it had started to gently snow. Kev Howett and Dave Cuthbertson were on the crag that day dropping a rope and cleaning what is now a tunnel wall bolt classic. Kev snapped a photo of me which I have always wanted to see. I knew Don Whillans a bit as he was often a Glencoe visitor, first meeting him and playing darts against him and Joe Brown at the Padarn pub on trips to Wales. I never climbed with Don but I did climb with Joe who was a fairly regular visitor to Glencoe at that time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmlrz5qBer9wObq8P-imPcNIoCpkIl9GYtRuKJRhxgx7ikf6ziPLefXYAO8YRqb8CWPfO_tp9_La3M_N8kPRlAJP3e30zMR4e9sR71aEAmHKCjIYKUvTLFtFJ6j-65lgVi9MC-SwaguYo/s1600/Carnivore+meJPG.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmlrz5qBer9wObq8P-imPcNIoCpkIl9GYtRuKJRhxgx7ikf6ziPLefXYAO8YRqb8CWPfO_tp9_La3M_N8kPRlAJP3e30zMR4e9sR71aEAmHKCjIYKUvTLFtFJ6j-65lgVi9MC-SwaguYo/s400/Carnivore+meJPG.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Carnivore first pitch</b><u> </u></td></tr>
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<b>Yo Yo.</b> As I worked as a woodcutter accidents were sadly common. I had a bust pelvis and crushed vertebra then unzipped my Achilles and a friend was killed next to me in the wood. Fiona eventually persuaded me to use my brain and I left then went and studied pharmacology, human physiology and went on to become the first person in Scottish MR to be a paramedic who was also registered by the state. This was before the NHS had "Paramedics" so a lot of training was based on the US DOT syllabus and Nancy Caroline "Emergency Care on the Streets". I left the wood and Duror's monster old Sitka and Douglas and my life went in a different direction after this. When I did Yo Yo and I was recovering from my chainsawed my Achilles. The tendon was nicked and I had unzipped the back of my the ankle. Lots of stitches in the Belford by a Dr Sen and a few weeks recovery and I was gagging to get a route in. Loads of holes from the stitches just recently pulled out didn't deter me from persuading Duncan the lad I did Carnivore with to come and do Yo Yo. So on a hot July afternoon we made our way up the scramble to the bottom. That whole N. Face intimidates me having been rescued off it at 16 stuck and hypothermic with some others. And I had taken a fall late at night in winter up there on a rescue, getting pretty badly ripped up legs. So there was an edge to just getting to Yo Yo. I thought my foot would trouble me but it was fine. The first pitch is supposed to be hard and wet but it was just a wee bit damp, and fairly easy. I found the middle pitch hard and thrutchy. The last pitch was out into late afternoon sun and the climbing was superb. Steady and interesting with a huge atmosphere, it finished all too soon on "unpleasant terrace". Getting off the terrace is interesting so worth keeping on the rope. What a great route. Quite thuggy but nothing too bad, and what a place! Ed's route the Clearances next door is also one of Glencoe's best, but a tad harder and a bit more serious. </div>
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<b>Shibboleth</b>. Of these routes this one was a bigger breakthrough than all the others combined. This route was Robin Smith's finest in Glencoe, and while maybe not technically the hardest route of it's time, it was the boldest. I know the routes history fairly well as I new folk that had had climbed with Smith. He made several attempts at it, one resulting in a broken leg for Al Frazer his belayer and a huge impromptu rescue operation from the combined forces of Squirrels and Creag Dubh clubs. Al Frazer had broken his leg badly and was pulled up onto N. Buttress, along above Ravens and out onto the Buachaille summit ridge and then carried down to the bottom. Smith soloed off the route to the side to go summon help which on its own was bold and brave. The rescue was a huge physical task. Al Frazer later worked in Raigmore with a climbing friend of mine who has sadly passed away, Bill Amos.<br />
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My early interest in the route came from the infamous graded list in the red coloured guidebook I had covering Buachaille Etive Mor and Glen Etive. This guide listed Agag's Groove as suitable route of decent from Rannoch Wall (Ian Nicholson is the only person I know who used it as this). With various friends and later Fiona I had been working my way up the graded list and only Shibboleth was left. Many routes at the bottom deserved a place nearer the top! I had looked across at the route from various angles doing routes on either side and watched another party from the SMC (Graham MacDonald) on it while I was doing Bludgers/Revelation with George Reid. I even had John MacLean (The Great White Hope was John's nickname after Smith got chopped) regaling me with the tale of the 2nd ascent he did when he was "looking for that fucker Wheechs peg" while rolling a fag while I was on the crux of "Pete's Wall" at Huntly's Cave. "Wheech" being Smiths nickname.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMs3xu23saO9aa9Td5as1XTz9wH9XpEvkBwYMPDY26rsVqtGBRSD5c-n9M80iiCJYwSxjUOIgVolATV02m3KUMc1UUl3OGxrTCkwMa_NddYr_hOBoyzcukdnJsqrh7HK0XVCGpaM3JNE/s1600/Mole+&+I+Shiboleth+83.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMs3xu23saO9aa9Td5as1XTz9wH9XpEvkBwYMPDY26rsVqtGBRSD5c-n9M80iiCJYwSxjUOIgVolATV02m3KUMc1UUl3OGxrTCkwMa_NddYr_hOBoyzcukdnJsqrh7HK0XVCGpaM3JNE/s400/Mole+&+I+Shiboleth+83.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Gearing up for Shibboleth</b> <b>with George</b> <b>aka "The Mole"<br /><br /></b></td></tr>
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1982 was a washout summer and despite getting a lot of routes done in the Lakes, Derbyshire etc it was very much a poor Scottish rock season until in late August the weather finally cleared and we had a few dry days and sun. So one Saturday in early September, George Reid and I arrived at the foot of Ravens and looked up the black winking groove of the 5c second pitch. The SMC party who had been on the route while we were doing Bludgers were back doing the Bludgers/Revelation combo themselves, which was a coincidence. Fiona came up to take a few pictures but had to leave as she was guiding a group up Gear Aonach later that day as the senior instructor at an outdoor centre.<br />
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I can still remember stepping onto the first pitch, up past a block with no gear until just before the winking black groove. I was pretty nervous. The black groove was wet necky and hard with a cold welded nut hammered into the crack. The 3rd pitch up to below Revelation flake is a joy but with a sting in the tail pulling onto the belay ledge. The best pitch is up the wall to the right of Revelation flake. A long pitch of steady successive 5b moves on little rough holds on a plumb vertical wall, then a pull over a small overhang then up the wall to the belay. With one runner! All with the gaping maw of Great Gully below, and Ravens winking from the shadows. Absorbing climbing. The final two 45m pitches to N. Buttress are great 5a climbing up steep walls, or go back as we all do one day and do the route again but traverse right across the cave and do "The True Finish" which Smith added later. The Hard Rock book version is the 5a finishing pitches which really are great. The cave is just truly spectacular! On finishing we went across and did Yamay, Yam, Happy Valley and May crack in the company of the now sadly dead Tam Macaulay and Glencoe ski regular Dave "Paraffin" who were well impressed we had done Shibboleth, especially as the crux groove was so wet.<br />
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We went to "The Ferry Bar" later that night (under the bridge at Ballachulish) which was "the" climbers pub at that time. Ian Nicholson and several others shook our hands saying well done lads, and for the next week we had folk saying I hear you guys did Shib well done! I don't think many routes had that reputation credibility and aura in Glencoe. It was nice for once to feel the equal of the legends. I can't think off many mountain routes since that were such a turning point in confidence. Winter perhaps doing the point in the early 1970's was still something, even though Ian had soloed it in an hour. Rock climbing probably doing Cenotaph Corner in a pair of big boots might come close!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0scD90Pa-umlJlZ-s1XIiPJKjbtSIsR3Sy2YUnTWjDZFn0EI5eOiY0a7M7FhvIoOQQHrOTI2APduC8ngM6D618hyWDHYgZbcKJP9euSNBvMFJTltPoO-mXuKxnly7H99p_Wdli-hbBYU/s1600/Ronnie+Slabs2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0scD90Pa-umlJlZ-s1XIiPJKjbtSIsR3Sy2YUnTWjDZFn0EI5eOiY0a7M7FhvIoOQQHrOTI2APduC8ngM6D618hyWDHYgZbcKJP9euSNBvMFJTltPoO-mXuKxnly7H99p_Wdli-hbBYU/s400/Ronnie+Slabs2.jpg" width="386" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption"><b>Ronnie Rodgers on the slabs with the sticky boots of the day! Ronnie and I were probably the only two local boys of the time to take up climbing. Ronnie did Centurion with Jimmy Marshal and his first route on the slabs was a solo of Spartan slab with Ian Nicholson who said it was just an easy intro to the slabs.</b></td></tr>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-35567671525134843102023-04-27T10:00:00.005+01:002023-04-28T09:29:16.258+01:00North by North West. Rescued in the Nick of Time<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbsjoe-nUguXEA-lkrqOfD4ht-63QvW2r-cTGulJ3gQWj8ZL7538WUh59hUECO3MJbCQIJ1YVza1h6IK7rOAVLMbsOKT4tQLsjXQXxnyV0rglVcFGWvfcM9e3OFSnxRkmJQ4TNBkmFkNaUEmanuu7EkLYhvSWbay06n_uvrRXkZl_InJ00rWdbpcB/s1500/NW%20Gully%20R%20Branch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbsjoe-nUguXEA-lkrqOfD4ht-63QvW2r-cTGulJ3gQWj8ZL7538WUh59hUECO3MJbCQIJ1YVza1h6IK7rOAVLMbsOKT4tQLsjXQXxnyV0rglVcFGWvfcM9e3OFSnxRkmJQ4TNBkmFkNaUEmanuu7EkLYhvSWbay06n_uvrRXkZl_InJ00rWdbpcB/w400-h266/NW%20Gully%20R%20Branch.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Stob Coire Nam Beith </b><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">click to enlarge all images</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Late
February, bitterly cold and moonlit to the point of making a head torch largely
redundant. Alan, a very experienced local climber has set off earlier that day
with a local lad who was learning the winter ropes, literally. Their route Northwest Gully Stob Coire Nam Beith. NW Gully is a modest guidebook 450m grade
II/III winding its narrow way up past "The Pyramid" and
"Sphinx" rock features on the biggest face of Glencoe, Stob Coire
nam Beith which has an alpine feel. The route if taken direct can be harder on
steeper ice and a few have been stuck on it over the years. The rock
architecture is truly fantastic and although the route is 450m in the guides,
it’s actually an awful lot longer than that to the summit where the route
really ends if you take the right variation which is best. That day the snow was bullet proof neve and in great condition. No
mobile phones back then and no great shakes to be a little late back, so Alans
wife Anne was not too concerned when he wasn't home by five o'clock, although,
like myself we often expected to be back 4 o'clock-ish. When the pair had not come back by Eight
o’clock, Anne phoned Hamish. He wasn't at all concerned as Alan is experienced
and no point in calling the team out when they were probably just finishing
late. Anne however felt something wasn't right and called Hamish back again later
only to get the same response. Meantime, as one of Alans friends she called me
and asked what she should do. I said I would get a couple of the lads from next
door, and we would go up have a look. I radioed the team and said four of us
were going up for a nosey to put her mind at rest. My neighbours at that time
were Peter (Chalky) White on one side, and Paul Mills on the other. Chalky was
a forecaster with the SAIS, ex RAF MR, and a good mountaineer and rescuer. Paul
"Millsy" was working as an independent Mountaineering Instructor
after leaving Glenmore Lodge and at that time was staying in a wee damp hovel
of a cottage next to Tigh Dearg which has since been knocked down. Gary Latter stayed
in in it before him. Malcolm Alans son one of the fittest lads in the rescue
team came along as obviously worried about his dad.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">We
set off up into the corrie moving pretty fast as it was now about ten pm at night making our way around the right of the corrie to near the "Rognon"
a raised feature on the West side up towards Hidden Gully where we started
shouting. Faintly we heard shouts back and could just about make out that one
was injured. This changed things immediately and we moved into rescue mode. I called
up the team, and asked for a rescue helicopter. Millsy and I headed down
towards "the Gate” a feature in the Corrie and started soloing up Summit
Gully crossing over into NW Gully at a little shoulder. By this time, it’s
getting on for eleven at night. We climbed up steep neve and snow ice until we
reached the right fork of NW Gully and the variation finish. Chalky was able to
direct our lights towards the shouts and a faint beam of light he was able to
see occasionally. The right fork goes up the Sphynx, then to the Mummy where
there is an ice pitch up to the shoulder. This is probably old-fashioned grade
IV short and steep and a bit of a sting in the tail after such a long climb. We
got to just below their belay at about midnight when SAR 137 a sea king, the
first we had seen as the Wessex had just been retired arrived. It flew in the
hover above us. It was horrendous from downdraught, blowing spindrift and the bitter cold. Alans leg and ankle was very badly broken and the Tibial plateau
in pieces, and tibia open # out the knee after a fall and a crampon catch. The
young belayer was hypothermic and going down from the cold. The helicopter
stayed in the hover above us for about 30 interminable minutes as it was a
highly technical winching operation from difficult ground. John Greive could be
seen in the door looking down on us being deluged and buffeted and was ready to
be winched down if needed to help. The winchman did a fantastic snatch rescue
courtesy of a knife and balls of steel. We never again doubted the Sea King. Previously
we thought it wouldn't be up to the job like the Wessex. That was proved wrong
time and again.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">That
left two of us in the gully smothered by spindrift and frozen, with a back climb of 400m+.
Bugger the abseiling we decided, as we were too cold. The gully had loaded up
with slab to a depth of about 40cm or more from the hover and a funnel effect
from the summit slope fan, so we had to be very careful as it was on a solid
base. It’s a complicated area, but I
knew my way around it as well as anyone could, so headed down trying to avoid the steeper section
of NW Gully above Isis Buttress. I knew a shortcut down a narrow corridor right
of Isis to go down. I remember dropping into the gully facing in, both axes
placed, and a whump and roar as it went off below my feet, I had to climb over
the 30cm crown wall with Millsy following. We didn't give it much thought, shit
happens. You don’t sign up for MR in Glencoe if you want an easy time and if
I’m to be honest I often enjoyed the unexpected mountaineering challenge and
unpredictable nature of it especially in technical terrain. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">We
continued down into the corrie where we met Chalky and Malcolm and in the wee
small hours as dawn was coming up descended back down the path to the Elliot's.
The Elliot's were all in bed, the team had gone home long ago, so we felt a bit
of a let-down as no welcome party and tea and medals. So with nothing for it
but home for a brief sleep, and for me at that time back up a hill to Ski
Patrol at Glencoe for day shift and broken skiers.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Alans
tough but needed a long rehab after reconstruction at Raigmore. The young belayer survived and would
certainly have died that night if out any longer, as might Alan. It's a dilemma
often occurring in mountain rescue where experienced folk are late, and no one
wants to embarrass them by calling out a rescue team too hastily. When is the
right time to worry and take action? There are no right or wrong answers. I had put
my own wife in that position when late back from a new winter route. However, I think
for Alan it was a bit too close a call and were it not for his wife’s instincts
and his resilience the consequences could have been tragic.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">As
mentioned, I was very late one night, and Fiona called John the team leader and
he rightly said we would be fine as I was with Arthur Paul and Andy Nelson, and
we couldn't all be dead! Tongue in cheek
and Johns way of allaying fears. He was right. John had good keen instincts and
saved many lives by taking no chances and getting the team out early on many
future occasions when leader. Hamish made a call that night with Alan, and we
as our climbing brother’s keeper, we made one too. Rescuers and Mountaineers are
one and the same and God help mountain rescue if it loses that ethos and
becomes just another risk averse collection of wanna bee’s. There is no right
and wrongs and such are the heavy burdens of a rescue team leaders’ role. The
public are probably unaware just what a big responsibility that is for MR teams
like Glencoe and Lochaber. In my own time as both deputy leader and team leader
I also had to make them on occasion and a degree of luck, judgement and
serendipity is involved.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">I
felt I needed to get this tale down. Surviving 10 hours hanging on a rope with
a shattered leg with a relatively novice young climber freezing, while cajoling
them to stay with it and encourage them to survive while your very broken took a lot of courage from Alan. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Alan has written an excellent and much better written account of his ordeal which was featured in the Glasgow Herald. As a journalist as expected its a work of great craft and damn good read. I have tried to get it from the Herald archive but no luck. Below are scans of the actual newspaper article and even though bits are cut the quality of the writing and tale is obvious. My writing is a poor comparison but perhaps serves as another side of the tale.</span></p></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCKI4CvQ38Q1u8mfuw032O8SoivCS_bT98SzHSf2qT4VtCkBQjjwkb1iJeKbpDrOg2uIzUV9uLBp-KTHzD6ixqSyyINevaVVwA5g8NTjydFdhIqoL5u0D8lbvyYkXN4Fn5QqO-VfJBlr4SOdE8heqIf928Gj9A24h4M6zl0dWm_KI58eh9ToU4hFH8/s2100/AT%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2100" data-original-width="1373" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCKI4CvQ38Q1u8mfuw032O8SoivCS_bT98SzHSf2qT4VtCkBQjjwkb1iJeKbpDrOg2uIzUV9uLBp-KTHzD6ixqSyyINevaVVwA5g8NTjydFdhIqoL5u0D8lbvyYkXN4Fn5QqO-VfJBlr4SOdE8heqIf928Gj9A24h4M6zl0dWm_KI58eh9ToU4hFH8/w418-h640/AT%201.jpg" width="418" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>click to enlarge</b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Ggah4PTJT7bYXTDu0fG8jlr6o4_xnv-TegyApVtlHvgRVHn8fb-pnhcoiXX5KHavahiQsBgWOqRXUVoMJ2E2fM5kFV0_-TUqFvR17Hwptw9k0ZovgST-rEljXL-m4mzNTtM_wwnoXgV_Oxup0csle0rew6b37Nir_2VEvfqOWWL4cFJ9uyBpIcyd/s2090/AT%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2090" data-original-width="1303" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Ggah4PTJT7bYXTDu0fG8jlr6o4_xnv-TegyApVtlHvgRVHn8fb-pnhcoiXX5KHavahiQsBgWOqRXUVoMJ2E2fM5kFV0_-TUqFvR17Hwptw9k0ZovgST-rEljXL-m4mzNTtM_wwnoXgV_Oxup0csle0rew6b37Nir_2VEvfqOWWL4cFJ9uyBpIcyd/w400-h640/AT%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>click to enlarge</b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9W6QaZDbQ0rx6q4-_Lot97JHlejkrrFKN2WFcB2nO6Z0W2ZAetShHF5VMtJGNv6CAopKbRLaFbJBHE4vE5IYNsf7LFqtJaDdMnZu-mhYQvKVccrZf9Yw9jjbQdALLwyeWEcn2Vwpigd0/s1600/NW+Gulley+1983.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9W6QaZDbQ0rx6q4-_Lot97JHlejkrrFKN2WFcB2nO6Z0W2ZAetShHF5VMtJGNv6CAopKbRLaFbJBHE4vE5IYNsf7LFqtJaDdMnZu-mhYQvKVccrZf9Yw9jjbQdALLwyeWEcn2Vwpigd0/w640-h435/NW+Gulley+1983.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Below NW gully. SAR 137 taxi hovering its way up to pick two dead avalanche victims from an earlier incident where they were avalanched out off the same spot as us</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table>
Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-7868357846603583252023-04-27T09:21:00.009+01:002023-04-27T10:50:20.325+01:00Falling Back - Lurching Forward<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: trebuchet;"><i><span>"For what its worth: its never too late or, in my case, too early to be whoever you want to be. There's no time limit, stop whenever you want. You can change, or stay the same, there are no rules to this thing"</span><span> <b>F.Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby</b></span></i></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;">I guess as we age we reminisce more and look back, as there is more back than forward. I do a bit of that these days. I also do look forward quite a bit as there is I hope quite a bit of it left! I am goal oriented needing a progression or something to aim forward at. Preferably without a ball, but certainly needing engagement. My teachers at school certainly thought I had a short attention span. But I didn't I was just bored with rote learning. Primary education was fairly strict in our wee Highland village school St Mary's Episcopal. At St Mary's you got the three "R's" or the belt, often times both. In fairness I could be a wee shite but aren't all boys now and again when bored. We had some Gaelic and minor Scottish history at school in among the revisionist clap trap of glorious English history, 1066 and all that. Its not so much that Scottish history was ignored, it just seemed a footnote to the Great British empire and revisionist myths. Little did we realise at the time that our history and culture, Neolithic, Celtic, Dalriadan, Celtic Warrior Priests, Vikings, Jacobite's and Scottish enlightenment was both our local and National history that had far reaching influence, European and World. Darien to the Heights of Abraham, Hanseatic League to the Somme and extirpation of the menfolk of the <b><a href="https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/moray/1606656/the-cabrach-offers-a-ghostly-reminder-of-the-great-wars-devastation/" target="_blank">Cabrach</a>.</b> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzLESRPmi9plBMnpKONC7MhaHTWxU2yog8IaRjBVmaKttB-bT9u4SjJqAajMvvUuVg9WeEBMzhKfUqMK-2oqYYz7fAWm6H699kAXi-WeOfJiTK5GdoALv0Cgor1jrV1nPpqyEI3PzSg12xK5tR9xTha313PNc4PdlTdEEgRp0rkXePSAiB1DINSQK/s849/Capture.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="849" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzLESRPmi9plBMnpKONC7MhaHTWxU2yog8IaRjBVmaKttB-bT9u4SjJqAajMvvUuVg9WeEBMzhKfUqMK-2oqYYz7fAWm6H699kAXi-WeOfJiTK5GdoALv0Cgor1jrV1nPpqyEI3PzSg12xK5tR9xTha313PNc4PdlTdEEgRp0rkXePSAiB1DINSQK/w320-h185/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p style="text-align: justify;">Secondary School up the road at Kinlochleven was just a travail among some burnt out bullies for teachers and de motivated kids. For me it was class room days of longing to be out with a fishing rod on a hill loch or wandering the river. I had not read "Highland River" by Neil Gunn then, but later on reading it I found Kenn the protagonist and I shared many childhood wonderings and wanderings. The source for me was always high in the mountains of the Glen. Filling me with terror and longing at the same time. Highland River is a quest. The salmon symbolising knowledge from the Druid/Celtic mythology of <span style="background-color: white; color: #202124; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">An Bradán Feasa. </span></span>Fishing was and still is a wander with a rod. Less about what you catch (these days I put them back if I can) and more about what you feel see and think along the way - perhaps an enlightenment. I can partly be defined as an angler, and I hope now also a conservationist. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvn-ax3q7gFBL9KEaZ1A-mXSWKb8RJuhpsTNPt2jqh6LUFTWNFFxMFeySMVl5rUqo58_OCO_aNmf4zBM8vRwAEPrMTjICAOA-tnxfgipfF8SEqFC22syNkmkV1ZakElYhSIqHCzIjhcDM/s500/9780099087205-uk.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvn-ax3q7gFBL9KEaZ1A-mXSWKb8RJuhpsTNPt2jqh6LUFTWNFFxMFeySMVl5rUqo58_OCO_aNmf4zBM8vRwAEPrMTjICAOA-tnxfgipfF8SEqFC22syNkmkV1ZakElYhSIqHCzIjhcDM/s320/9780099087205-uk.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">The source for Kenn on high moorland, for me up high among austere Dalriadan rock and Andesite. When exotic "climbers" such as Ian and Nicki Clough bought an old house to do up in the village I got my first exposure to folk who went up into the mountains as climbers. As a clueless teen along with another local lad we started exploring these high places and had adventures. I became a hillwalker and wannabe climber. Several adventures and misadventures later I was in the mountain rescue team. I was still very much a wannabe climber and in no way competent enough, but folk were patient and I got strong. Then, and for several years after, the team were working hill men and climbers who went on rescues. It was fairly informal and just expected that you or a competent visiting climbing friend would help out if someone was in trouble. Later as I became a better mountaineer and rescues became frequent it became less informal, and to meet the improvements in pre hospital care mountain rescue also changed. I also discovered I was a wee bit cleverer than my teachers had indicated and entered adult education with a gusto never felt in my younger days when I bailed out of school at 14 and didn't go back. No regrets. Carpenter, Lumberjack, Mountaineering and Ski Instructor, Paramedic, Husband and Father. Success in life isn't money, property or status. Its only quantifiable in love. The more pain love causes in its loss the more depth it has. Learning to embrace that is a spiritual journey. Only loss of love, grief and pain awakens us to how fragile we all are, how little material goods matter and that money is a token.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">I write. Probably not very well. Some are tales of rescue and of its great characters and legends. I still rescue day shift as a ski rescuer working ski patrol with a group of great folk up at Glencoe Mountain. Every time that damn helicopter fly's over I wonder what's happening with the MRT and think of the new young stalwarts of the team, remembering getting my head around the trauma and relating it to my own ambitions on some of the same climbing routes of the fallen. MR can stealthily grip and steal away the mountaineer, substituting a trauma junky. Pedalling the hit of helicopters, kudos and the excitement of the unknown. As potent as heroin to the adrenaline junky of which I was and maybe still am one.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">I do feel very much a climber again even if it's clipping bolts or several grades down my old trad abilities. I love wandering with a rod or exploring an old coffin route on a mountain bike. We are the sum of all past things, but it does not mean a future only looking back along some cursus of where we have come. Does it?</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Be it a journey of the mind or a piece of rock there is plenty out ahead if you reach for it. That reaching is a hard journey but I have light ahead up that magic mountain.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It is said that before entering the sea</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: arial;">a river trembles with fear.</span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #212529;">She looks back at the path she has </span><span style="color: #212529;">travelled</span><span style="color: #212529;">,</span></div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">from the peaks of the mountains,</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">the long winding road crossing forests and villages.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">And in front of her,</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">she sees an ocean so vast,</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">that to enter</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">there seems nothing more than to disappear forever.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">But there is no other way.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">The river cannot go back.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">Nobody can go back.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">To go back is impossible in existence.</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">The river needs to take the risk</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">of entering the ocean</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">because only then will fear disappear,</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">because that’s where the river will know</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">it’s not about disappearing into the ocean,</div></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: justify;">but of becoming the ocean.</div></span></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #212529; font-family: inherit; text-align: start;"><b><i>Kahil Gibran</i></b></span></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-23605912136131738032023-02-20T17:32:00.004+00:002023-03-15T09:06:58.950+00:00Road Trip with the Lads<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Road trips are a big part of climbing culture. I certainly did plenty with Fiona as I was lucky to have a climbing and life partner all in one. Lads trips fuelled by beer and bravado were also great fun. Most relatively straightforward. Drive, climb, beer, repeat. Some were mini epics even before the drive though. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We were only about 3 years married. I had an old banger Ford Escort with no MOT or handbrake for taking firewood from the Forest above our house where I was clear felling. I had filled it with logs at the bottom of what we knew as "The Tarry Brae". Unusually it was a steep section of forest road that had tar laid on it. I filled the car up with logs, went over the top and the bugger just stopped and started slowly rolling back. I thought I had time to get the brick under a back wheel but it skewed out and I was left hanging off the open boot full of logs and slipped off the the side as the car went back stopping itself on a big butt at the side of the road. Pretty grazed up and shaken I got back in and after several try's got the car going again and gunned it over the top and back down a gentler but longer way back. Arriving back I dumped the old car at the house and Fiona told me George Reid had been on the phone. Paul Rodgers and Paul Moores both Joint Services Mountain Training Instructors were going down to North Wales for three days did I want to come so we had two ropes of two. I ok'd it with Fiona, and they agreed to come down and collect me about 7 o'clock that night, but we needed to go down via an up to Fort George. </span></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcJbJbuwK-Bu2SYv3AkRMVutr18gXzoSzHyAIZqgD7IY3ju89gz_F_pMWNV5ckMr0nCEh8nafrslOGkcu9ScrM-6EoXTT94pbBJ3W3_ECXH14Th7uYfAY_-jPwkBF6qYU9S07eLHWRzoxU8KekoS7zPMbA4iPKWn4KYwoRZ92tTbE3W8gxSxWfw_7/s1000/CC%20Hut.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcJbJbuwK-Bu2SYv3AkRMVutr18gXzoSzHyAIZqgD7IY3ju89gz_F_pMWNV5ckMr0nCEh8nafrslOGkcu9ScrM-6EoXTT94pbBJ3W3_ECXH14Th7uYfAY_-jPwkBF6qYU9S07eLHWRzoxU8KekoS7zPMbA4iPKWn4KYwoRZ92tTbE3W8gxSxWfw_7/s320/CC%20Hut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Climbers Club Hut Llanberis</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We arrived in Inverness about 9pm, found a bar and Paul went off to Fort George for something. We got picked back up about 11pm and headed South at mach1 in Pauls RS Cosworth arriving late at a </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> railway bridge near Penrith where we could get under and sleep. I kept rolling off down into a fence where rail tracks were and every half an hour a goods train rumbled past. Not the best of sleeps. Early morning we head South with a visit to the Great Orme Pen Trwyn and climbs left of Parisellas Cave where sport climbing had recently started. Short brutal hard climbs and a Jerry Moffat playground. Llandudno is a sort of Welsh Blackpool with not much to commend itself to climbers but plenty if your old. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Wrecked fingers later and off to Llanberis and the Pass. It had been five years since my last visit to the pass, where darts with Mo, Joe and Whillans at the Padarn were the evening entertainment. Again we stayed at Ynys Ettws the climber Club hut where there was a meet on including some Fell & Rock folk we new such as Nick Escort. We manged to blag the last available bunks. I was on the top one of a three tier. Down to the "old Vic" for a beer with Mo and Joe which turned out to be several as folk we knew turned up like John Ellis Roberts whom I had met through mountain rescue a few years earlier. Many pints were had. I vaguely remember folk gathered around me in the middle of the night as I got up for a piss forgetting I was 15ft up and crashed onto the floor waking everyone up. I don't know how, but I didn't piss myself! Anyway, breakfast at Pete's Eats then out to Gogarth for Quartz Icicles, Dreams of White Horses, abseils, drowning potential, sea and sunshine. "Dreams" was regarded as an exciting HVS 4c back then, which technically is about right. However, waves crash over the first pitch if you go low, and if you fall off the last pitch you better have prussiks or your not coming back up. The other option is down into the Zawn and drowning.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTr3g7YOB5tST2FZMxAAaDu5sAUUBnMG1WUfOVv6F86gB-JQKzwIIJlbAadf_5QhWO6zUejQ2ydKLP0fMzRTFYNaaFoQSi_jXsbmYP2d1Blrb49lzxeVfMkm5_N-dnG_oOs4JgL2EjpZxpaODe__p9rUljmVhyhGpNHDwT3ckI8rBr_Ma_lvWL-LD/s597/Capture.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="373" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTr3g7YOB5tST2FZMxAAaDu5sAUUBnMG1WUfOVv6F86gB-JQKzwIIJlbAadf_5QhWO6zUejQ2ydKLP0fMzRTFYNaaFoQSi_jXsbmYP2d1Blrb49lzxeVfMkm5_N-dnG_oOs4JgL2EjpZxpaODe__p9rUljmVhyhGpNHDwT3ckI8rBr_Ma_lvWL-LD/w250-h400/Capture.JPG" width="250" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A good days climbing was had and we headed out to sunny Caernarfon for beer, fish and chips, and visit to a local climbers pub with rough men, pretty women and trouble brewing. I </span>made<span style="font-family: inherit;"> the mistake of </span><span style="text-align: left;">thinking I could just chat to a girl that came over to speak not realising green eyed monsters were watching. </span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;">We escaped back to the Llanberis and the old Vic again. Next day was spent in the pass ticking of Brant Direct, Slape Direct and Ribs with Crackstones and Crackstones with Ribs, Eroded Grooves and me flying off a polished Unicorn Direct not knowing it was a sandbag. Many routes later and dehydration so George produces two cans of Macewans Export from his rucksack. We stash gear and put on our packs. He cracks a tinny and takes a good slurp puts the can down and I bend over to get it and a huge rock hits my back and knocks me over. A guy above the crag must have knocked the rock off. You kind of just shrug that shit off. I was more shaken from flying off the shiny polished second pitch of Unicorn as my hand jams pulled.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDQMpiYnBpKE7nuwzgU16ZKHEVAF0zgF89vPJYAYRR7r8rhq90bYY5OMiIcsovJb3U2V0OeKpqWVOGNkKqPG_fnMGVZ_U_KjEYplM4l73XMf2YTQGW-A40YV9Yv7aMo-aKN_9gC-TDa-q5XUc25NRgti-JfT2nS0sEuv3IBBhfRkMmYNIeCYIwr7W/s500/61MAqR6pnSL.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="353" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDQMpiYnBpKE7nuwzgU16ZKHEVAF0zgF89vPJYAYRR7r8rhq90bYY5OMiIcsovJb3U2V0OeKpqWVOGNkKqPG_fnMGVZ_U_KjEYplM4l73XMf2YTQGW-A40YV9Yv7aMo-aKN_9gC-TDa-q5XUc25NRgti-JfT2nS0sEuv3IBBhfRkMmYNIeCYIwr7W/w226-h320/61MAqR6pnSL.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tremendous Book ***</i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Back down to the car and mach1 northwards through late Sunday night traffic, arriving back in Duror about 1am. A snuggle up to a warm cosy young wife, get up at 7am, collect the Husky chainsaw, fuel cans and stuff and up the wood to cut as many tons of trees as I could. Road trips were fun. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Not sure where time has gone as back then we thought we had forever. Now only memories. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Post Script. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><ul><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">John Ellis Roberts died in a climbing accident on Dinas Cromlech July 2014</span></li></ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Paul Rodgers lost his life in the </span>Cairngorms <span style="font-family: inherit;">January 1984 </span></li></ul></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">"Where the mountains touch the sky,</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div>Where poets DREAM, where eagles fly,</div><div>A secret place above the crowd,</div><div>Just beneath a silver-lined cloud"</div></span></div>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-66649067279692931812023-02-04T09:57:00.008+00:002023-02-04T10:18:17.657+00:00Spring, a notional concept<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPBnp-hbj9zClZBTHdreYi63iw3s08iSwdUj__azpIY2G1nK1DuC-gc1udEQd9FZqe-j4An0PaqC8rlpz1a-IuoNCpHMQUFQcPNa9WNP3Y34HoMIPh81-wNawMczHfF-ZtK3rhtrDVdI/s1600/tignes_thumb.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPBnp-hbj9zClZBTHdreYi63iw3s08iSwdUj__azpIY2G1nK1DuC-gc1udEQd9FZqe-j4An0PaqC8rlpz1a-IuoNCpHMQUFQcPNa9WNP3Y34HoMIPh81-wNawMczHfF-ZtK3rhtrDVdI/s1600/tignes_thumb.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>“Spring passes and one remembers one’s innocence.</i></div>
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<i>Summer passes and one remembers one’s exuberance.</i><br />
<i>Autumn passes and one remembers one’s reverence.</i><br />
<i>Winter passes and one remembers one’s perseverance.” </i></div>
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<b><i>Yoko Ono<o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
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The Scottish "Spring" has arrived early and as usual it is a very notional concept as we have some winter up high. Snow drops are popping up early, bulbs and daffys are growing and even Glencoe village has the sun threatening to appear after is long holiday below Am Meall. Glencoe Massacre day on the 13th is when we at the lower end of the village get a blink. Ironic on a day of remembrance of a tragedy.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">The best best time in the mountains is approaching with longer days, shorter nights, and you could say better weather (that's a very notional thing). Winter isn't over and has a few throws at us yet though. late Feb/March is a great time to get the touring ski's out, or the free ski's to get exploring. The spring snowpack is often a granular corn and much les avalanche prone too. But as we all know we can end up with big dumps, high winds and full winter conditions right up until May. Don't let you guard drop too early.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">I am always banging on about avalanche risk as in a way it's my bread and butter as a Recco trainer and Ortovox retailer, also working with the great folk of Glencoe ski patrol on a mountain that has many interesting slopes. Being a three sided polygon the ski mountain always has an aspect that loads, and two of the aspects give great off piste itineries with the main one the best snow holding in Scotland. Spring snow days with good cover and folk are dropping off into the back and having fun or venturing over to Clachleathad and Creise.</div>
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Selling avalanche equipment and teaching avalanche rescue is very satisfying. The courses I used to run were not really about rescue though, which is a misconception some seem to have. They are about awareness of the weather, causes of avalanches, how to avoid them through planning, thinking about group dynamics and communication, and terrain interpretation. In this context the rescue and recovery scenarios are very much about acknowledging that we get things wrong and bad things happen. If you have not succeeded in avoiding the risk then by practicing with the rescue tools (beacon, shovel, probe) in realistic scenarios you can reduce the consequences. No enough emphasis is given on risk exposure and risk acceptance. Basically off piste skiing you are tugging the tail of a dragon. The more often you tug the more likely that one day it will flame you out. You can dig pits, look at crystals and do all that stuff but keep dropping 32° slopes on new snow days and one day your burnt.</div>
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It's dead easy to slip a red ski patrol jacket on, or become an armchair expert and be risk averse. But, most of us have learned more about the subject by our own errors, and most often if you work or play hard in the mountains with risk exposure, sadly with time your number will come up. That's the mountains and specifically when off piste skiing where the line between the best day of your life and the last day can be ephemeral. Unless folk accept that as a basic premise they might as well take up knitting. Skiing the steeps and the deeps can never be made 100% safe by ski patrollers, bombs or fences. It's down to you the skier, ski patroller (or mountaineer) to get out, and get experience away from your familiar areas of recreation or work, so you that you are forced to learn to make plans, decisions and terrain choices in unfamiliar places. That's where you learn quickest. You have to do this to stay alive.</div>
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There are no shortcuts. Only time in the mountains (a lifetime), respect for them (humility) and learning to read them (terrain) will keep you alive. Oh! and a defecit of hubris helps.</div>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOjj5F08oARuqX43So30z1G02-tUccqSapxeo3SBfsjeQosgCa5W5HAInlpUv6N3VPNpvByhTS_kx98NXfr1ptWTQyfq7S-eGfxJwhMfEV7gk8ZtA_LNJGxej3PvCFX7_MLYH_giwxa980JwK3k67J6Ldpv9QsN6Po6yJUMTML6B1ZWeHjX4dBIlP/s1879/View%20Summit%20Tow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="949" data-original-width="1879" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOjj5F08oARuqX43So30z1G02-tUccqSapxeo3SBfsjeQosgCa5W5HAInlpUv6N3VPNpvByhTS_kx98NXfr1ptWTQyfq7S-eGfxJwhMfEV7gk8ZtA_LNJGxej3PvCFX7_MLYH_giwxa980JwK3k67J6Ldpv9QsN6Po6yJUMTML6B1ZWeHjX4dBIlP/w400-h203/View%20Summit%20Tow.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0Glencoe, Ballachulish PH49, UK56.682559899999987 -5.102271328.372326063821141 -40.2585213 84.992793736178839 30.053978700000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-34171659273799461682023-02-01T11:00:00.004+00:002023-02-04T10:19:36.338+00:00The Tribe from where the Mountains Weep<p style="text-align: justify;">Its such a stoke to see all the great winter mountain and climbing pictures from the many folk who have made Lochaber and in particular North Argyll/South Lochaber their home. Summer and Winter weather is such a big part of our moods and positivity. Its undoubtedly a hard place to live, even as someone born and bred here I can attest to that suffering from the darkness of depression at times. But living here teaches patience and gratitude for when the good days come. And my goodness didn't they come in full over the last Month if your a winter mountaineer and ski tourer. So many folk out on the mountains having fun and enjoying the epic conditions. Fantastic hill walks, snowboard adventures, ski touring exploration and steep technical ice climbing.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">The local mountain community has always had its dips and surges so its great to see it on the up and post Covid. In the past these good times were beset by tragedy which set back folks enthusiasm when key movers and shakers were lost from the climbing community. As a young man the best climbers in the area were by default in the rescue team, it just came with living here. Or they worked for Hamish's Glencoe School of Winter mountaineering (GSWM), Ian Cloughs Glencoe climbing School or were doing some private guiding work. Qualifications back then were just being a good safe mountaineer as there were few formal qualifications and no NGB's with the exception of the BMC and SMC as guardians of the tradition and ethics of UK mountaineering</p><p style="text-align: justify;">My own early days were touched by folk who had lost their best friends in the Italian Climb tragedy on Ben Nevis when 4 locally based climbers were avalanched and only one survived. That survival all alone above the avalanched party by Jon Greive was remarkable and required much fortitude. Events like that knock a climbing community back, as its heart is temporarily gone. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2oMjUSRWPcTVV4UNH6wAyfCCEmWvsYFKhcZiCTuV9Dveac9JoFNNZX_LaEgxiX0lBDGjRhoxI8Wu-m4P2OYP_zJSLn4htfcL9xQPc6alp1ifzEkOH2SY_hLdxr_BfP5Y_eDVIyZjqtQ/s1768/Add+Italian+4.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1768" data-original-width="1246" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2oMjUSRWPcTVV4UNH6wAyfCCEmWvsYFKhcZiCTuV9Dveac9JoFNNZX_LaEgxiX0lBDGjRhoxI8Wu-m4P2OYP_zJSLn4htfcL9xQPc6alp1ifzEkOH2SY_hLdxr_BfP5Y_eDVIyZjqtQ/w226-h320/Add+Italian+4.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Italian Climb Avalanche Aftermath</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table>The turn of the 1960's to 70's were over shadowed by this, even before more loss occurred. Tom Patey although not a local was a frequent visitor and often in the village at "Tigh Dearg" Ian and Nicki Clough's house, or putting out tunes with my uncle Charlie Campbell up at Clachaig. As a boy I saw a slide show on the Old Man of Hoy by Patey in Tigh Dearg the Cloughs house. I was a pal of one of Nicki Cloughs nephews who came up in the summer holidays where we swam in the river most days or fished. Little did I know I was rubbing shoulders with mountaineering legends when in having tea and buns. They certainly inspired me as that's what got me hooked into climbing. Patey's death through lack of attention to safety on the "Maiden" a sea stack took away a climbing legend and character. Although a great mountaineer he could be reckless and perhaps a bit cavalier. The mountains don't forgive complacency especially in the form of an old carabiner used to hold your trousers up and no system back up such as is taught nowadays. <div><br /></div><div>Then Ian Clough was killed on Chris Bonington's 1970 Annapurna South Face expedition right at the end near camp one when it was all over bar the shouting after Dougal Haston and Don Whillans summited and were back down safe. More than any other sad loss this wiped out the heart of the local climbing community and was keenly felt in the village as he was liked by all. </div><div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxrLEYUl8_yU-BsMkbwg9J0_-LmBSlHTR5v-8Loud4krmM579oCKkA__rX2DWOa6dOwHU9PrHREFT4Jj7EpGxlEjYrKv9Eeuzk2XCSJYMZupwa7A856TSQJb63zTcleStPC94atNPZFw/s910/Ronnie+Slabs2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="910" data-original-width="881" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxrLEYUl8_yU-BsMkbwg9J0_-LmBSlHTR5v-8Loud4krmM579oCKkA__rX2DWOa6dOwHU9PrHREFT4Jj7EpGxlEjYrKv9Eeuzk2XCSJYMZupwa7A856TSQJb63zTcleStPC94atNPZFw/w388-h400/Ronnie+Slabs2.jpg" width="388" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Local lad Ronnie Rodgers on the Slabs</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkvUpf_yncZrkVI6GRlIUUeintjD2yWeugSEiFcJLmfqDBrjqJVFRkCOrkrh_fNk_41xOC8-grEeOd5qKM98Px7iJc1_HsfQBa7UT44023h56K3WsYUds7dR6ajLxNIYer_PYZwn7JOo/s544/Ian+Clough.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="431" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkvUpf_yncZrkVI6GRlIUUeintjD2yWeugSEiFcJLmfqDBrjqJVFRkCOrkrh_fNk_41xOC8-grEeOd5qKM98Px7iJc1_HsfQBa7UT44023h56K3WsYUds7dR6ajLxNIYer_PYZwn7JOo/w254-h320/Ian+Clough.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ian Clough</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="text-align: justify;">Mountaineers are nothing if not resilient and addicted to their passion and of course new blood came in. Notably active at that time were the various instructors both part and full time with the winter climbing school. Spence, Fyffe, Nicholson, Knowles and MacInnes himself, as well as Wull Thompson and John Hardy when not cutting tree's down for a living. Dave Knowles was killed on the Eiger, hit by a rock kicked off by a rigger on the film </span><a href="http://theclinteastwoodarchive.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-eiger-sanction-tragedy-on-eiger.html" style="text-align: justify;" target="_blank"><b>Eiger Sanction</b></a><span style="text-align: justify;"> starring Clint Eastwood. Dougal Haston was the safety advisor on the film but after this incident left the film set and Hamish MacInnes took over. The most memorable scene had Clint Eastwood doing his own stunt work falling down the North Face on an assembly of ladders tied together by Hamish. Dave Knowles loss again affected the local climbing community. He and his partner lived at Invercoe. So as you can see the 1970's when I started climbing the climbing community had a bit of a cloud over it. </span><a href="https://www.adventure-journal.com/2020/12/historical-badass-climber-dougal-haston/" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Haston died in an avalanche</b></a><span style="text-align: justify;"> in Leysin where he lived and worked. A film was made of him "Haston - </span><a href="https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/haston-a-life-in-the-mountains-2005" style="text-align: justify;" target="_blank"><b>A life in the mountains"</b></a></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcv-xXZV2v_x-3t640w_Ln8j3ohvWDGs_0-VLO5iU8aesMEMAx87JLOtKamccOrWyofrv61fplbfVziBG9rfgEJjl98ooUnEUFbpkjmG_GAS2zomPOmjjMNG4G90DGdq40Yfb7zeL9V4E/s2048/20210219_204723.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1558" data-original-width="2048" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcv-xXZV2v_x-3t640w_Ln8j3ohvWDGs_0-VLO5iU8aesMEMAx87JLOtKamccOrWyofrv61fplbfVziBG9rfgEJjl98ooUnEUFbpkjmG_GAS2zomPOmjjMNG4G90DGdq40Yfb7zeL9V4E/w400-h304/20210219_204723.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Robin Campbells fine eulogy to Dougal Haston "Cumha Dughall"</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: start;"><span style="text-align: justify;">I met </span><a href="https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0461514/bio" style="text-align: justify;" target="_blank"><b>Dave Knowles </b></a><span style="text-align: justify;">in the Clachaig bar one afternoon after climbing Clachaig Gully for the umpteenth time (it was handy and has a pub at its foot) and he gave me some very good advice after I mentioned how the psychological barrier for local hard routes was so high with folk either trying to psyche you out with route info on how hard things were, or implying only legends got up them. "youth", he said, don't climb in Scotland. Get yourself down South away from all that bullshit and climb there then come back. It was good advice as most (but not all!) the local routes I later climbed required no superhuman powers. However superhuman or not, some routes winter and summer stood out for sheer boldness. Like most things the bullshit barrier is the hardest bit and its pure psychology. When on the sharp end you just get on with it.</span></div><div style="text-align: start;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzSipYZhjJ7Z_Cn8dQE2EkcBDrcGaA9ynBRU69pXQfCmB5Ccr1mlxXoXqbr1h204TKi8CFjpbBFy3IIfYbvsRqQQ-a1VLBC3dUYcWs7D01LjEnsSH5iR3GKeaHMmvD2DajgLgPL0ZxpY_B6hFtXvgdpyXpfgHlLj_qnTgdYWUBARLEQg8wLkaon6y/s3746/Woolmans%20Wall.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2588" data-original-width="3746" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzSipYZhjJ7Z_Cn8dQE2EkcBDrcGaA9ynBRU69pXQfCmB5Ccr1mlxXoXqbr1h204TKi8CFjpbBFy3IIfYbvsRqQQ-a1VLBC3dUYcWs7D01LjEnsSH5iR3GKeaHMmvD2DajgLgPL0ZxpY_B6hFtXvgdpyXpfgHlLj_qnTgdYWUBARLEQg8wLkaon6y/w320-h221/Woolmans%20Wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Northumberland Winter Soloing. 30 route days where VS was XS</b></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilso7gj43LqGoHEgcP0eALltlcVEtOuHbTeT6uCrm-uFl8s0HZGF-0cIoOtMLWH7fLL74vQucBgOavYh9QKYJDTdotP1HhDp1ZoTSYcc_ajkIGCpy_JZIV0szaWQKz3IgNVja3rC0-5yA/s1619/Hamish+brolly.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1619" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilso7gj43LqGoHEgcP0eALltlcVEtOuHbTeT6uCrm-uFl8s0HZGF-0cIoOtMLWH7fLL74vQucBgOavYh9QKYJDTdotP1HhDp1ZoTSYcc_ajkIGCpy_JZIV0szaWQKz3IgNVja3rC0-5yA/w213-h320/Hamish+brolly.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hamish MacInnes in Mary Poppins mode on a film set</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;">The late 70's early 1980's were much better with another generation coming through, of which I suppose I was one, as was Fiona. Ed Grindley was very active on rock, and living in the village. Paul Moores had his local guide business and a thriving shop "Glencoe Guides and Gear" which was run mostly by his wife Ros. A proper climbers shop. George Reid was living locally and going through the Guides scheme and hungry for routes, and some of the old hands such as John Hardy, Alan Thomson, Ian Nicholson and Wull Thompson as well as many others were back active. Mid week evening climbing in high summer, including mountain routes, and at weekends a big gang would meet up in the Ferry Bar and hatch plans to be out and about, sometimes en masse at a mountain crag. Visiting climbers joined the fray with regulars like Joe Brown and Mo Antoine in among it. The end of the day would see a mass exodus to Kingshouse for a session and late night, sometimes all night if the next day was to be wet. The 80's for me were the best as I was pretty motivated and strong and the scene was good. Not only for local based climbers, but Cubby and others were thumping out the routes, Glen Nevis was getting its renaissance and folk were busy doing alpine seasons, expeditions or just out cragging. And there was a lot of film work either on major films or local outside broadcasts. Even the 80's had its setbacks as a local climber lost his life on <b><a href="http://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2017/03/top-to-bottom-on-central-grooves.html" target="_blank">central grooves</a> </b>and I sorted it out.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1HEh4bbvOQ4OSTwwD_JV-8uPATb2oDzj2suy5bSQs1_jS4xChQrzk-ClrKtNkvlPC6MEQAV_LR17c5mZDGVcA8e3H1wqUBKlSszrhug_glv-GUPfQ6ILHHsfjvql7vPGPrI3KthB3Z8/s2048/Ed+Belaying.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1373" data-original-width="2048" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1HEh4bbvOQ4OSTwwD_JV-8uPATb2oDzj2suy5bSQs1_jS4xChQrzk-ClrKtNkvlPC6MEQAV_LR17c5mZDGVcA8e3H1wqUBKlSszrhug_glv-GUPfQ6ILHHsfjvql7vPGPrI3KthB3Z8/w200-h134/Ed+Belaying.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ed Grindley in somewhat relaxed mode<br />belaying me on the F.A of "Sisyphus"</b></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">The 90's onwards were a bit doldrums to start as families were coming into the world, folk moved on and the scene around the main meeting point the pub was more serious as drink driving laws were enforced and folk just went home after climbing. But there was still an active local scene from rescue team members and joint services climbing instructors. The untimely death of local lad Allan Findlay in a car accident in the Glen put a cloud over things. Also another local climber Ray Darker from Ballachulish tragically fell to his death on Skye. Sadly I was involved in a couple of rescues for folk who I knew, finding them both dead. Dougie on the North Face Aonach Dubh and Bish Macarra under the Lost valley bridge. Even recently the mountains have taken as well as given, with the loss of our cycling buddy Chris Bell on Bidean and a young local climber in Deep Cut Chimney. I am not sure you should ever get over these things but somehow mountaineering communities develop a resilience to them and a personal firewall and you get through it. The Tibetan proverb "It is better to have lived one day as a Tiger than a thousand years as a sheep" has something in it. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyDyxxy9CgMsK1S5kaj_4dql9gFh3A1oziLoUmxJlk1_lPPbquupMV4lPV8yHw9kUQEJGuR7Pf-6mJa2DAlLx18uZI11ud_YrMdiGWMrTYssD7EOWs2A09_mcJ7X4R4htLd_c3J4Rf8E/s2048/Line+Up+1.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1427" data-original-width="2048" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyDyxxy9CgMsK1S5kaj_4dql9gFh3A1oziLoUmxJlk1_lPPbquupMV4lPV8yHw9kUQEJGuR7Pf-6mJa2DAlLx18uZI11ud_YrMdiGWMrTYssD7EOWs2A09_mcJ7X4R4htLd_c3J4Rf8E/w400-h279/Line+Up+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Davy Gunn on "Line Up" 1983</b></span></td></tr></tbody></table>I took a total scunner a few years ago, and hated the mountains. Too much tragedy and loss looking back, and a feeling I had wasted my life on mountains and rescues. The superficial thrills of skiing and day shift of ski patrol were more social and a lot more fun. I hated climbing for a time, but through my sons enthusiasm keenness and ability I got back into rock climbing and now really enjoy it again, especially sport climbing, and I especially enjoy the craic with folks at the two local walls 3 Wise Monkeys and the Ice Factor. The staff there are all motivated and upbeat and get out as much as they can, and happy to chat with old has been's like myself. </div><div>I have made many new friends in the climbing community. some new to the sport like Tim and Charlotte Parkin who's sheer joy at living in the mountains is infectious and who have taken to the sport like ducks to water. The ex ice factor team and great community of young and old who are happy for a ferociously over ambitious old git to climb with them is great. And its great surprising the youngsters that old gits can still crush harder routes. Yesterday at 3wm I asked a group of teens to move from under the campus boards and one cheeky git snidely commented to his mate "he won't be on it long". They had no idea but soon twigged. I envy their lack of need for Ibuprofen though.</div><div><br /><p></p><span style="text-align: justify;"><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgql-ZNZbeED_7diZRabKhQ5HlDGstwRCrGrqfe9_PSr_hUR2cTlg0Zxl-4lZ7hZ_QRtQ-PU8EezVWUEUuuohbd8P6-PXUaWPDrJqUL263DkDUZO-cmSGUqxNk36q2McyS5y10mNpoQ2dk/s500/Yvonne+Chouinard+Whiskey.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="362" data-original-width="500" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgql-ZNZbeED_7diZRabKhQ5HlDGstwRCrGrqfe9_PSr_hUR2cTlg0Zxl-4lZ7hZ_QRtQ-PU8EezVWUEUuuohbd8P6-PXUaWPDrJqUL263DkDUZO-cmSGUqxNk36q2McyS5y10mNpoQ2dk/w400-h290/Yvonne+Chouinard+Whiskey.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Yvon Chouinard. Glencoe and Ben Nevis have <br />always attracted folk from all over the world </b></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>I mention these early times to folk as a bit of background history so folks to see what it was like here in the past. With an expanding network of active folks in North Lorn and South Lochaber things are looking up. Many new folk have made the area their home specifically for the easy access to the outdoors. I call them new Scots. They are invested in living here, contribute to the community and love the mountains. Their enthusiasm be they beginner or expert is great to see, and I love seeing the social media pictures of folk having fun outdoors. More than anything its great to see a vibrant strong mountain community in the area again. A day out at Arisaig or down at Oban sport crags is always sociable meeting folk, and Polldubh classics are appearing out of the bracken. Even the dusty old classics on E Buttress are giving folk fun again and in winter folk are doing that peculiar thing of "dry tooling" which we did back in the day with our Dachstein clad hands. Some are even climbing steep ice. Scary!</span></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChFdIKBo69FjGQ-MUszUkhdsxbe5c1EL4gtz36HzOzgII1ebAaAdvLCvN3SoKAlEl1zL6rAFvH9-J1PuVRHM-Dyg7Si0GEkl_CbsSKD7znGcgFU2wt4t5gmyLFad3qi6zhbkxVOkhX1Z2hwuMOGh34Dayvwa1ajYRkkwVNTBV5P9ou_rM-Ir5Z2pE/s4032/Skerry%20Champion%206c+%20Gallanach.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChFdIKBo69FjGQ-MUszUkhdsxbe5c1EL4gtz36HzOzgII1ebAaAdvLCvN3SoKAlEl1zL6rAFvH9-J1PuVRHM-Dyg7Si0GEkl_CbsSKD7znGcgFU2wt4t5gmyLFad3qi6zhbkxVOkhX1Z2hwuMOGh34Dayvwa1ajYRkkwVNTBV5P9ou_rM-Ir5Z2pE/w225-h400/Skerry%20Champion%206c+%20Gallanach.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Skerry Champion 35m 6c+ "The Money Pit" Gallanach Oban. Moy on steroids!</b></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><b><i>Click the hyper links for more interesting background info. Click the pictures to enlarge</i></b></span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzOiTT1-CAteCrRLdRuTuqjvUpfubRfnxauN5F4KaWBU3y3AWjYYgQgy1bCVFlpCo6oRoEhysP8S9OMqR0oCIYAAVYFOBcklsRybAv0zOQrn_FloJfG-My6NTuhyi45nR5YzamCW-FvU/s1920/Doggles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1152" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzOiTT1-CAteCrRLdRuTuqjvUpfubRfnxauN5F4KaWBU3y3AWjYYgQgy1bCVFlpCo6oRoEhysP8S9OMqR0oCIYAAVYFOBcklsRybAv0zOQrn_FloJfG-My6NTuhyi45nR5YzamCW-FvU/w240-h400/Doggles.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">The future is so bright we need doggles!</span></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /><br /><br /></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0Glencoe, Ballachulish PH49, UK56.682559899999987 -5.102271328.372326063821141 -40.2585213 84.992793736178839 30.053978700000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-87987633931274239582022-12-20T14:10:00.001+00:002022-12-20T14:10:37.733+00:00Avalanche of FACETS Heuristics & 20:20 Hindsight?<p>Heuristics and the associated acronym. Interesting review of McCammons paper and discussion with the man himself. </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>"FACETS was never intended to be tool or educational point in and of itself"</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>"Numerous studies suggest that merely learning a taxonomy of persuasion tricks does not make people any less susceptible to them"</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>"Here we are 20 years later, and people are still dying from the same effects" </li></ul><p></p><p> Link> <a href="https://www.americanavalancheinstitute.com/alptruth-and-facets-two-acronyms-that-can-save-your-life/" target="_blank"><b>AlpTruth and FACETS Acronym</b></a></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3jK8DjAscgmXp6DMk2aGBcInGA714kVtjkfoKsZ99EYHKxW3DwBvbxeaIu3MVgW6VIGc4guL-oawOZR4Z_P-r7rZqCt0SpBwKKmdyKwBaoP1aWGNIhI_akEiyG-zThjEIveHBrS35z84vaXNPwItb3CL38G_FGeSmOE8HB-uYvyRB4Qhq2YKueQU/s2227/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2227" data-original-width="1721" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3jK8DjAscgmXp6DMk2aGBcInGA714kVtjkfoKsZ99EYHKxW3DwBvbxeaIu3MVgW6VIGc4guL-oawOZR4Z_P-r7rZqCt0SpBwKKmdyKwBaoP1aWGNIhI_akEiyG-zThjEIveHBrS35z84vaXNPwItb3CL38G_FGeSmOE8HB-uYvyRB4Qhq2YKueQU/w494-h640/1.jpg" width="494" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqYwUMCh3NeIKPpsj2cYvoVyh-x8jEWae7CDLXMchV9AJPCjIazkMAQqIzq5jG1C75AchUGwmQC1lQGMLr0kyUd5RHELy92In_Mwg8ShvmZV7YTRGveAtenljlmseKNfVxW_pPjR-NEm40O-DPuWwEdomQ01CSRorErCZFETYV2AC-jPhI8deonz2/s3231/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3231" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqYwUMCh3NeIKPpsj2cYvoVyh-x8jEWae7CDLXMchV9AJPCjIazkMAQqIzq5jG1C75AchUGwmQC1lQGMLr0kyUd5RHELy92In_Mwg8ShvmZV7YTRGveAtenljlmseKNfVxW_pPjR-NEm40O-DPuWwEdomQ01CSRorErCZFETYV2AC-jPhI8deonz2/w450-h640/2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6BwJa006Ai7d3vhpfJHKAZ2QnHBORSgmPTPlT9oUdLHFDnBJO9CzRTd2BvTptv92F2JiZ5pMcEBogusy5884ZWTfPwDUKzr9V5U31FHl2lkEtJnORxzNTkNyMhfqhwKYhR7zcQ4AvDJOS3CQNvBtA1q2T-dULhiqIst7e8UhdXYZC0VM_ZFXvbUm/s842/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="842" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6BwJa006Ai7d3vhpfJHKAZ2QnHBORSgmPTPlT9oUdLHFDnBJO9CzRTd2BvTptv92F2JiZ5pMcEBogusy5884ZWTfPwDUKzr9V5U31FHl2lkEtJnORxzNTkNyMhfqhwKYhR7zcQ4AvDJOS3CQNvBtA1q2T-dULhiqIst7e8UhdXYZC0VM_ZFXvbUm/w400-h251/Capture.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPtXlT3kf2js-d90pMUhAtXO0sDPTP8OKJ8yrwPhi4WCXOSIPJ_zjRJ57-zGNVNyKIaQmoiS-mdUdvpyFjM6-u6iIi1Z4MLFADMalYRipLSIagoYwo2fG9lg0gMZtsNi-9PtlGoyjpbX_dgngJDqrSWRlG_b3G-39p3HjK4uDXKsduVZgY2eSytzm/s371/Risk%20by%20Experience.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="371" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPtXlT3kf2js-d90pMUhAtXO0sDPTP8OKJ8yrwPhi4WCXOSIPJ_zjRJ57-zGNVNyKIaQmoiS-mdUdvpyFjM6-u6iIi1Z4MLFADMalYRipLSIagoYwo2fG9lg0gMZtsNi-9PtlGoyjpbX_dgngJDqrSWRlG_b3G-39p3HjK4uDXKsduVZgY2eSytzm/w400-h263/Risk%20by%20Experience.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p><br /></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-67402069842682442992022-12-15T13:00:00.001+00:002022-12-15T14:22:49.114+00:00Avalanche Victim Recovery Considerations Part 2<p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: x-small;"><i> Davy Gunn American Avalanche Association Pro Member, FIPS Avalanche Working Group and UK Recco Trainer</i></span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: x-small;"></span></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2WQvJNM1FdC3mdRtZeUYBG8MJ7lCz9LdFHpif9_amGDqJnNwIdtf66DqnKCSwpbyWd-E7FGzSSvp8XopKN4Aizz10STBMuvkvJBQzaTTmC9EI9QfJF7J_WHxIMXGs_auyEfD0rhxkkPu20RtaAjdlMbrXeAyFvPLLrtQQw9NKgZ6eVvYDq0Ku-Qn/s2048/20th%20Avy%20Course.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2WQvJNM1FdC3mdRtZeUYBG8MJ7lCz9LdFHpif9_amGDqJnNwIdtf66DqnKCSwpbyWd-E7FGzSSvp8XopKN4Aizz10STBMuvkvJBQzaTTmC9EI9QfJF7J_WHxIMXGs_auyEfD0rhxkkPu20RtaAjdlMbrXeAyFvPLLrtQQw9NKgZ6eVvYDq0Ku-Qn/w400-h300/20th%20Avy%20Course.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Learning to dig as a team<br />Students on an Avy Level 1 course at Glencoe Mountain</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjTRDKrFTT52BFOhzMXkunBwtg5R9N5-co7avjolpRZp0bRYsu0zw23GjyQaFCwIpWpc7q4FIvg3mb_JkYVxTxAYFLcRLZOdpmdlnMRd1qdUvXFDqqyDE9L1pt4Vje23sSZQlwW83hNlJs27UBYXx6v6L-JozXb-bI27ZEdzUTwO07zTI2zhdCP3bz/s940/BCA-AIARE-Group-Checklist-940x580%20(1).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="940" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjTRDKrFTT52BFOhzMXkunBwtg5R9N5-co7avjolpRZp0bRYsu0zw23GjyQaFCwIpWpc7q4FIvg3mb_JkYVxTxAYFLcRLZOdpmdlnMRd1qdUvXFDqqyDE9L1pt4Vje23sSZQlwW83hNlJs27UBYXx6v6L-JozXb-bI27ZEdzUTwO07zTI2zhdCP3bz/w400-h246/BCA-AIARE-Group-Checklist-940x580%20(1).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="color: black;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->The definitive
locating device is a transceiver. Carry one that's digital and has 3 antennas. And with charged batteries. New ones like the <a href="https://www.ortovox.com/int-en/shop/categories/p251699-avalanche-transceivers-ortovox-diract-voice" target="_blank"><b>Diract Voice</b></a> are good</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->The definitive
location device is a probe. Carry one that's at least 240cm, preferably 270cm+ <a href="https://www.ortovox.com/int-en/shop/categories/p50049-avalanche-probes-carbon-280-pfa" target="_blank"><b>The Carbon 280+ pfa is a good one</b></a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 54pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->The definitive
airway device is a shovel. Carry one that's alu, has a good blade and can convert to a hoe if possible. <a href="https://www.ortovox.com/int-en/shop/categories/p50691-avalanche-shovels-shovel-pro-alu-iii" target="_blank"> <b>Ortovox Pro alu III is a good one</b></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 54pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> RECCO might not save your life but might save a rescuers as being searchable reduces time on scene and exposure to secondary avalanche. Given the longest Scottish survival is 27 hours it might also save your life. <a href="https://www.alpine-rescue.org/system/production/article/documents/file/000/870/99c5c1a173824a82a7e4907b7ad7c7b4c812d8c7c68400adfb6d1c3884a129f1/20150124-AVA-REC0010%20Be%20searchable.pdf?1651605137" target="_blank"><b>Be Searchable</b></a></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black;">Digging
out a victim you should attempt to dig in toward
the victims chest and head from the side, not above so as not to compress any air pocket. Dig in from below approximately the same distance down showing on your probe mark. If possible have more than one probe in place.</span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black;">Take
care when uncovering the mouth and nose and have an experienced avalanche
rescuer assess</span> A<span style="color: black;">irway of the ABC's. </span>If your not experienced class it as open. Clear it of debris.
Expose the chest and begin CPR as soon as is practicable. Data suggests
starting CPR before complete extrication (if possible ) improves outcomes. Its also hard work so get other climbers and skiers on board to take turns if they offer help.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Avalanche Victims
may have Trauma, they will also be Hypothermic. So all buried avalanche victims should have further heat loss prevented. Trauma and Hypothermia plus blood loss (contributing to Hypothermia) is a lethal triad.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> O</span></span></span><span style="color: black;">ther victims in a multi burial may be very nearby, or under the
first recovered victim. If many victims are buried some may survive for a
very very long period due to air spaces among other bodies. A salad of transceiver distances can be confusing. Get as many probes in to make contacts as you can.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; margin-left: 54pt; mso-border-shadow: yes; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-padding-alt: 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt 31.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;">Multiple burials are resource hungry, messy, require leadership and discipline. Fail to practice these scenarios and its a shitstorm. Spread limited resources too wide and everyone might die. If limited person power get the first located victim out first and fast before moving on. You might at least save one.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Note:</b> Pulse and Breathing may be
very hard to detect. Not finding these vital signs does not mean that
they are not present. You just may not be able to detect them. Many cases of survival are documented where CPR had been continuous for 5+ hours. Make it good CPR</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">If you start resuscitation,
regardless of how long a victim had been under, you do not cease unless
rescuers' lives are in danger or the decision is arrived at from a consensus of experienced avalanche
rescuers and medical consensus that it's futile.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Chest compression's may be
interrupted for a short time because of evacuation and rescue procedures but continuous unbroken CPR is the goal.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Do not swallow the myth that most Scottish avalanche victims die from trauma. Many undoubtedly do but we should focus on saving those that don't have catastrophic fatal injuries. There are no studies to prove the trauma myth, and plenty of stats from similar maritime snow packs where studies have been done to support that trauma isn't the only killer and only a smaller percentage. My own anecdotal experience is here: <a href="https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2016/12/triple-h-or-trauma-in-scottish.html"><b>https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2016/12/triple-h-or-trauma-in-scottish.html</b></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">As a personal opinion this trauma fallacy could cost lives by giving the impression being searchable and companion rescue is a waste of time. Follow the<a href="https://www.alpine-rescue.org/articles/262--the-avalanche-victim-resuscitation-checklist" target="_blank"><b> international rescue commission guidance</b></a> and you will not go wrong.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Important reading. Full Article: <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3080528/" target="_blank"><b> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3080528/</b></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Synopsis of Full article:<a href="https://earnyourturns.com/9079/avalanche-survival-time-reduced/" target="_blank"> </a></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://earnyourturns.com/9079/avalanche-survival-time-reduced/" target="_blank"><b>https://earnyourturns.com/9079/avalanche-survival-time-reduced/</b></a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Prehospital core temperature
measurement in a hostile environment will be unreliable. Unresponsive victims
will often be about Swiss Staging HT3 level or more, and so Severely
Hypothermic. Use the <a href="file:///C:/Users/crank/OneDrive/Desktop/ICAR%20MED%20REC%2040%202021%20B%20Clinical%20Staging%20of%20Accidental%20Hypothermia%20-%20The%20Revised%20Swiss%20Sys.pdf" target="_blank"><b>Swiss Staging scale</b></a> to describe levels of hypothermia. Learn it. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9GMhbJSiox0RVTwmDx-0rugASzNrTnwKCdWqxSPaR-R9R7UxoN9VZGns5puf7tfy7IraTnK02Pd9iMGIQYhymKIIcPbEzdXdHclZproVyok1D40Ev6JPlfnT8xH950pi_zE9QXb0Rd7ten2plpOLhZ0EidpEVs6zGVMKCWZxhZOt_088EOFVtZCw/s857/Swiss%20Staging%20Graphic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="471" data-original-width="857" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9GMhbJSiox0RVTwmDx-0rugASzNrTnwKCdWqxSPaR-R9R7UxoN9VZGns5puf7tfy7IraTnK02Pd9iMGIQYhymKIIcPbEzdXdHclZproVyok1D40Ev6JPlfnT8xH950pi_zE9QXb0Rd7ten2plpOLhZ0EidpEVs6zGVMKCWZxhZOt_088EOFVtZCw/w400-h220/Swiss%20Staging%20Graphic.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Final rescuer thoughts.</b> Responsive survivors may not complain of injury as very
cold, and unresponsive victims who maybe alive can be assumed to have occult trauma. Careful
handling onto a vacuum matt immobilises the spine, closes the book of the
pelvis, and prevents limb fractures from moving. A vac matt also provides good
insulation. Better to use this as an SOP as its easy to miss an injury in an avalanche rescue and recovery</div></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: red; font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><b>NO AVALANCHE OR HYPOTHERMIA VICTIM IS DEAD UNTIL THEY ARE WARM AND DEAD</b></span></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-35129598299441851682022-11-24T12:36:00.011+00:002023-02-04T10:20:26.258+00:00An Adventure in "The Gully" with the Fox<p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></i></p><blockquote><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></i></p></blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">Twas in the Clachaig gully that young Murray rose to fame<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">On the slabs of the Great Cave Pitch<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">Where other men had failed his experience
prevailed<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">And he crossed that fateful ditch -</span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">On the Wall of Jericho, they shouted "Will
it go"?<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">As he hung on hair trigger hold<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><p style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 150%;">He answered not a word and rose like a bird</span></i></p><p style="margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;">Through the mud and the slime and the cold</span></i></p></blockquote><p style="margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;"></span></i></p><p style="margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b> Tom
Patey "The Ballad of Bill Murray"</b></span></span></i></p></blockquote><p style="margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b></b></span></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Clachaig
Gully with the Fox<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">I
got some new boots from the rescue team. My old ones were left in the porch at
the front entrance of Kingshouse after helping out on a winter rescue from
Ravens Gully where sadly a young lad died. The victim was 17 and so was I. Someone left one of my size eights and one of
theirs size ten. Despite asking Jim Lees the owner and manager to ask around
and waiting a few months the boot never turned up so Hamish had a pair of new
ones sent up from George Fishers in Keswick. In between times I was on old worn
out “Super Pros” that were bald and leaky and had toe caps stuck on with evo
stick to cover the holes. The new boots that arrived were Lionel Terray
“Fitzroy” which like the Galibier “SuperPro” were the winter climbers and
alpinists boot of choice at that time. Heavy full leather, metal shank they
took a bit of breaking in so off I went up the Pap of Glencoe in them one
Saturday. The Pap wasn’t a popular hike back then. It was a rite of passage for
local teens getting to the top, just to say they had done it but other than
that you rarely saw anyone going up. The Pap has been a good training route for
me over the years, both hiking it and running it many times once as a bet to
the top and back to the church in Glencoe in under an hour. Even winter climbing
it once up its North side on rock hard neve and ice up and over rock steps at
about grade II/III with a stunning outlook for a smaller hill surrounded by
giants.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">The
day of the new boots was a bit overcast but dry, and the up and down went
quickly meeting no one else on the way. You would be hard pushed to find it
that way now as it’s so popular. I was walking back down the road to the
village and see Sandy Whellans a local police sergeant coming toward me in his
van. He stops and suggests I jump in as there is someone injured in the Gully. Clachaig
Gully was more simply known as “the Gully” to us. Not because there are no
other gullies as there are plenty around Glencoe and Glen Etive such as the
Buachaille Chasm, Dalness Chasm, and others but it was by far the most popular.
“The Gully” has a lost world feel to it. Deep, gloomy, wet sometimes, although
a heat trap in direct sun, and above the climber the walls hang with vegetation
and loose tree lined rock, on vertical or overhanging deep side walls. The Gully
is about 37 pitches in all with only 4 of real note. The Great Cave, The Ramp,
Jericho Wall, and the Red Chimney. Jericho Wall and the Red Chimney are above
the tree line. Jericho Wall so named as the walls of the gully are only 5
meters apart at this point and the pitch goes up the right (East) wall. W.H
Murray likened Clachaig Gully to a “Monstrous beauty like the hindquarters of
an Elephant” quoting Elroy Flecker. His first ascent with Marskell, MacAlpine
and Dunn made famous in his classic book Mountaineering in Scotland. I grant
you I was young, but I already had notched up a few harder climbs, had epics,
been on a few rescues and been rescued myself. I could handle myself and was
strong.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">The
lower gully pitches are short and escape easier but have nippy little bits for
the unwary or those not used to climbing in boots. One pitch of note had
disappeared after rock fall. Before this it was a bridge up using the gully
sides below a short waterfall which could be dammed up and then burst to soak
the second as a bit of fun. It’s a short
hard bouldery move to get over now. I did it just after the rock fall and
reaching over the top felt a latex glove which was mine from a fatal accident
two months earlier. The casualty on that occasion was climbing second on the
rope several pitches past the Great Cave when his friend knocked off a large
rock. This struck the casualty on the rucksack and hit an aluminium water
bottle that broke ribs and punctured his lung causing a condition called a
pneumothorax. Even though we were very quick to get there, by the time we had
been called out, run up and abseiled in it had gone into tension, a serious and
immediately life-threatening condition. Despite resuscitation efforts and
advanced life support he did not survive. Those that deal with these medical
emergencies know that a lot of kit gets left around, and even though you try
and tidy up on the rocky bed of a gully stuff gets missed especially in the
dark so that’s the gloves litter explained.</span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7EcQ9zPFk5FlozPbxPcG7jJj6HrskddwrB0q4HYdzs5wxzT8IXXZT5ahS1l-X3Bqg7Ha7bSw34XuTqm1tkRmXjR3D-N2sWuYd37ozyEc-DQJbh48XHDdEbN7p3yza7snk9rwiooWq6UDvZJIDSXF0Nr3OiaEuHveCTZAM7yqfgRtwExTcMVYGMSw7/s640/Clachaig%20Gully%205.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7EcQ9zPFk5FlozPbxPcG7jJj6HrskddwrB0q4HYdzs5wxzT8IXXZT5ahS1l-X3Bqg7Ha7bSw34XuTqm1tkRmXjR3D-N2sWuYd37ozyEc-DQJbh48XHDdEbN7p3yza7snk9rwiooWq6UDvZJIDSXF0Nr3OiaEuHveCTZAM7yqfgRtwExTcMVYGMSw7/w240-h320/Clachaig%20Gully%205.JPG" width="240"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>A Rescue in Lower Clachaig Gully<br><br></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Several
parties would climb the gully of a weekend back then. As a result it was well
visited by the rescue team. An average roped time for the entire gully would be
about 5 hours although one ascent for a party of four took two days. Hauling stuck
folk out was a common event, but also sadly some nasty accidents and
fatalities. Back then the gully was graded Hard Severe. It’s been soloed by many
including my late wife Fiona with Cynthia Grindley, but back then when this
story took place I had not met her.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">I
jump in the van with Sandy, and we park up at Clachaig where Hamish is waiting
for the old green ex-army rescue truck to arrive. Huan Findlay is bringing it from
the Elliots. Sandy mentions that someone has called the police worried as they
have friends doing the Aonach Eagach and should have come back but have not. We
meet up with the fellow who reported the gully accident. He had abseiled “The
Great Cave” pitch leaving a fixed rope, then come out an escape route path on
the West side and down to the hotel to phone for help. His friend had fallen
off “The Ramp” pitch (crux), the technical crux of the gully (4b/c) and with no
runners had fallen about 50ft onto the rocks at the top of the Great Cave.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Hamish
and I set off up the path to the exit point of the escape path then scramble
down into the gully. Hamish has some technical gear, a radio and first aid and
I have nothing. We climb the Great Cave pitch solo. It’s not a hard pitch and
goes up to a tree, then a step down, and a move across to a short corner then
up to the ledge where the casualty is lying. The poor fellow is struggling when
we arrive. He has a broken jaw, wrist and chest injury and scalp wounds but is
conscious. And in pain.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Opiates
for chest injuries can be controversial as they can depress the respiratory
drive. However, if the casualty is in so much pain they can’t breathe and there
is no sign of a lung injury like a pneumothorax then it’s a good thing to
alleviate the pain. Hamish rummages about in his wee red stuff sack with the
first aid kit and hands me a syrette of “Omnopom” which is an opiate like
morphine. I inject it into the back of the casualties’ hand and then we bandage
him up the best we can.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Sandy
radios Hamish to say he is organising a helicopter to look for the folk on the
Aonach Eagach and to help us out, and also
a new report has come in that shouts are being heard coming from around Ossians
Cave. The helicopter was coming from 202 squadron then based at Lossiemouth and
getting one was much less easy than now.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">The
rescue truck arrived as a base station and folks are asked to bring up a stretcher,
casualty bag and a long static rope. Eventually this arrives in the gully below
us and we use the rope left in place to get the static line attached to pull up
to us with a big sling to make me a harness and a fig 8 descender for me.
Hamish spies a good strong Rowan tree 15ft above us and takes the static line
up and ties it to the spindly but apparently well rooted tree. We pull up the
stretcher and casualty bag having also asked for another rope to be tied onto
the foot end of the stretcher. The stretcher is hauled up and between us we get
the casualty onto the stretcher after a lot of humping groaning and pain.
Challenging work for just two of us and painful despite the analgesic for the
casualty. Hamish gets out two swing cheek pulleys he’s made in his workshop.
Rustic but functional pre Petzl he also had his own design rope jammers. We rig
the stretcher with tape slings as the Mk 3/4 didn’t have wire strops pre
fitted, we then put the pulleys on the static line and clip them to the top and
bottom stretcher tapes and connect up our climbing rope as a back rope to the
stretcher on a belay. Then get the bottom end of the static line taken up and
out onto the path to the West side of the gully, where there is a group of
rescuers. We ask them to tug of war the static rope tight and lock it off on a
belay. The static rope is angled down so the end is much lower than us. This
rope tension lifts the stretcher airborne above us and clear of all obstacles
and we then lower it with our rope. Someone below grabs the rope at the feet
end of the stretcher which hangs to below the pitch and walks it out of the
gully, joins another rope on and pulling it as required to coax the stretcher
out onto the West side. It goes well sky lining across the width of the gully
airborne until our rope runs out, but the stretcher is almost there and has a
good landing at the side. Its then carried over the short distance to the path
and a flatter spot. A couple of hours have passed but timing was perfect as the
helicopter arrived and flew up to where the stretcher was waiting. The
“Whirlwind” only had a 60ft winch wire so not a lot of capability and certainly
would not be able to winch from the gully. The “Wessex” from 137 Leuchars which
replaced it a couple of years later had a 300ft winch and twin free gas turbine
jet engines and could at a push take up to sixteen people although not in its
SAR role where 7 plus crew was a load. The Wessex changed mountain rescue completely
and RAF Leuchars SAR crews and MRT were all good friends.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhbAT2XQ-MNxes2rzZygYGswxhrps9q6CB3sWHbwVo9_SHiVR4BEyAf9PffFH_LB3fnTW3ZbVaKNrA0hNuwQifb0gt-IxzPun_UjxsRgAaKchfXpX1RxGmkEiWjcSoFSVKvzgXGJ7ldRqtMu9vgb8vVfjY4BtXIrgVZZA40nyReA0z83RUXur9_fs/s705/Clachaig%20Gully%201979.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="566" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhbAT2XQ-MNxes2rzZygYGswxhrps9q6CB3sWHbwVo9_SHiVR4BEyAf9PffFH_LB3fnTW3ZbVaKNrA0hNuwQifb0gt-IxzPun_UjxsRgAaKchfXpX1RxGmkEiWjcSoFSVKvzgXGJ7ldRqtMu9vgb8vVfjY4BtXIrgVZZA40nyReA0z83RUXur9_fs/w257-h320/Clachaig%20Gully%201979.jpg" width="257"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Fiona Gunn in Clachaig Gully</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">The
casualty is picked up and flown away to hospital. Hamish and I have to abseil
off on the abandoned rope doubled and placed over a rock spike pulled down
after us then get out onto the path and head down. 25 minutes later we are at
the base vehicle to be told Sandy is up on the ridge on his own and has found
the missing folk and guiding them down. We go up with the binoculars to see if
anything is visible at Ossian's Cave. Sure enough there is a group of about 7
people, and they are waving an orange bivi bag. We ask for the helicopter to
return, and it does so lifting up a couple of team members and winching them
down near Ossian's Cave. One casualty with a broken leg is winched up quickly,
and then the rest of the group guided back down to the bottom. There is a
particularly good picture of the Pilot John Stirling landing on the A82 to pick
up team members. A busy day. As we were near an excellent pub we made the most
of what was left of the day and quite a lot of the night refreshing ourselves.</span></p><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzwph0ELW-UwspdGhB3c-Rukx-O5HX0cDWTlNwUC8gyboevb4TCIbstolF_R6Edt5VA4WvBWNmxkyyM8mD6QykQFk_5nsNu9pxU8lttL11vw7v6kwOh5GI1gDuKsryLzoHFaBabBB5cBTJWJ7kTmLxyGJ2kkTuqFE_Rje-GsBwhFRvlMvoHoWCjHcH/s1152/LG%20Wessex.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="1152" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzwph0ELW-UwspdGhB3c-Rukx-O5HX0cDWTlNwUC8gyboevb4TCIbstolF_R6Edt5VA4WvBWNmxkyyM8mD6QykQFk_5nsNu9pxU8lttL11vw7v6kwOh5GI1gDuKsryLzoHFaBabBB5cBTJWJ7kTmLxyGJ2kkTuqFE_Rje-GsBwhFRvlMvoHoWCjHcH/w400-h260/LG%20Wessex.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The Wessex last job before being replaced with the "Sea King" April 1993</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com2Glencoe, Ballachulish PH49, UK56.682559899999987 -5.102271328.372326063821141 -40.2585213 84.992793736178839 30.053978700000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-77965963690936610062022-11-11T17:06:00.008+00:002022-12-21T11:10:36.316+00:00Life No 6 of the 9<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>W</b></span>inter 1986 was a good one if you liked traditional Scottish
winter climbing pre torquey scratchings. February that year No 6 gully, normally
a fun grade 4 water ice climb if lean, was well banked out and grade 3 with a
short easy angled entry pitch, a couple of smaller steps and then final steep
pitch which was normal height and good thick snow ice. Paul Mills a local
climber was living in a little cottage just up the road and suggested we do it
old fashioned style by step cutting and take a single rope. It’s an easy access
route that you can do in the morning, pop down to Clachaig for a beer and pie, and then go up and do the Screen grade 4 for afters. I had done it many times but not In the style of its first ascentionists cutting steps.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We were in no great hurry so with crampons, a walking axe
each and a 9mm x 45m rope we got a lift up from Fiona and set off up to do it. The
initial pitches were easy enough to crampon up, a bit of post holing between
pitches and a fair bit of spindrift, quite quickly we were below the almost final pitch. There is a more
direct finish above or you can just exit up a short chimney right to get off
and down the old fence, or go around into the Corrie and add another longer
climb on Stob Coire nam Beith.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I led up the pitch and instead of keeping left and
being near a corner that used to have old piton in it I headed up right as it
was easier to stay in balance and not need to cut so may holds. Then a bit
moving back left towards the normal route. I was trying to follow the ices
natural features and easiest angle. I had one sling around an ice column at the
midpoint and the climbing was not very steep and I was always in balance with enough
features to hold onto instead of chopping although some cutting was required.
<o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdb_T0X3_r-CLMlYG1aiSSMI_HbiiCs1E5gtyUjjcj_aj1d42EBbsdSRsfV2jyV8ml5L6_0ChFbnKSMgtt9vsYtnRkUyQKbNLtEKVnIm3eqYW4lXP4gRrSvdilTtJeonCTILO-erhXELfVpEEoiLrVUUTjqMH4MWOCetpzxrnG6kGqTp8CRDWoui6s/s1415/No%206.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1415" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdb_T0X3_r-CLMlYG1aiSSMI_HbiiCs1E5gtyUjjcj_aj1d42EBbsdSRsfV2jyV8ml5L6_0ChFbnKSMgtt9vsYtnRkUyQKbNLtEKVnIm3eqYW4lXP4gRrSvdilTtJeonCTILO-erhXELfVpEEoiLrVUUTjqMH4MWOCetpzxrnG6kGqTp8CRDWoui6s/w400-h338/No%206.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The Last Main Pitch No 6 Gully Aonach Dubh</b></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal">On reaching the top just below where there used to be a nest
of pitons on the Left for a belay I felt very uneasy looking at the slope just above and
around the exit fan, where you can go easily up to the terrace left and along a
bit and into No 4 gully, or take the direct finish which I did in 1982 or the short chimney up right. Just a
gut feeling of unease. That final slope was loaded with blown windslab and was
continuing to load from above. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I shouted down to Paul that I wasn’t happy and climbing
down. I left a “Snarg” ice peg and then just back climbed down to an unhappy
Paul. I persuaded him that the
top slope wasn’t right, and it didn’t feel right. So we reverse climbed down the
gully to its foot. There we met a group of four other climbers one of whom at
that time was the boyfriend of a rescue team members daughter. They had come
down from Kingshouse. They asked about the conditions to which I said ok ish.
Paul commented that “the old boy here wimped out on the last bit.” I felt I had, as it was only short plod if I had pulled over and gone up to the rocks.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We went down, met Willie Elliot and he called Fiona who came
and collected us. Later that evening I find out that all four topped out onto
that slope, unroped moving up it had avalanched taking them all over that
pitch and down the gully onto the thankfully filled in lower slope (sometimes
there is a deep hole there). Very battered and bruised they were all
surprisingly ok. The girlfriend dad asked why I didn’t warn them. I didn’t feel
that saying it was my gut instinct was enough justification for saying
something. That gut instinct is really no more than precognition or an
unconscious taking in and analysis of subtle alerts to your senses. It’s worth
listening to that inner voice. Its not infallible but most of the time its on
mark. The mountains will be there another day. You need to be too.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">That area of the West Face Aonach
Dubh, like most of the lower altitude winter climbs has suffered from the
recent winters being relatively frost free at valley level and higher winter
temperatures. Such a shame as there are many very good winter climbs on the face.
“Chaos Chimney” a short easy climb with one pitch can be a bit spicier if just
water ice, like its neighbour No 6 Gully. No 5 gully right of “F” Buttress and “The
Needle's Eye” rarely sees a visit, or if it does it’s via the direct entry via “Elliots
Downfall”. No 4 gully in it lower reaches is rarely if ever climbable but after
doing No 6 its possible to follow a ledge East down off “F” Buttress into the
icefall start of “Christmas Couloir”. This goes up past “The Amphitheatre.” It loads
up with blowing snow before exiting the final slope and can pose a considerable
avalanche risk. Going further East comes “E” Buttress with its soaring classics
in summer. Big Top, Trapeze and HeeHaw. Then comes “Amphitheatre Scoop” with
its ice column tucked away in a chimney which if you’re lucky to find the
condition has a long steep ice direct start saving climbing up and along the
ledge above. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The gully between “C” and “D”
or “CD Scoop” starts from the middle ledge and can be quite a good ice climb. No
3 is a shallow indefinite gully but has a good short ice route called “The
Smear” which forms on the wall of “C” Buttress. Next comes the obvious ice smear
of “The Screen” one of Glencoe’s classic ice routes. It’s a sort of direct start
to CD Scoop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>January 1979, we splinted
the broken leg of author Joe Simpson and stretchered him down. Later Joe had
the epic of “Touching the Void”. Then comes the gulch of No2 with some modern
mixed routes up its Buttress, and “Dinner time Buttress” named by early Scottish
Mountaineering club pioneers who used it as a quick way down for the club
dinner at Glencoe Hotel on meets there. No 1 Gully is on its East side and of
no significance as a winter climb. However the final chimney of Dinner Time can
be a bit of fun when snowed up. The final fan of No 2 is used to exit for going
into Coire nan Lochan and can load up so some care required in certain conditions.
The descent of Dinner Time is a bit of a knee wrecker but certainly for the
competent a good way down if you pick your way.<o:p></o:p></p><br><p></p>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-10248419987808890482022-10-26T12:02:00.007+01:002022-10-26T16:38:04.279+01:00Sport or Trad, its Rock<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ApAUzfTK0NuXEGF93ITicVxTKU1fu4HtMYq52NZo_Kmv7x30RZdWs08aFuGlfUDOck0qUojR9b8TcOsTPuZ3-JEiZpfk7IFXiQ0xYel02XI1-hahW33IBek1lr1ImLn3VF-pUAvNowc/s1600/IMG_1918.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ApAUzfTK0NuXEGF93ITicVxTKU1fu4HtMYq52NZo_Kmv7x30RZdWs08aFuGlfUDOck0qUojR9b8TcOsTPuZ3-JEiZpfk7IFXiQ0xYel02XI1-hahW33IBek1lr1ImLn3VF-pUAvNowc/s320/IMG_1918.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Pebble pulling on "Moy Bueno"</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
As an ageing "climber" it's really hard to improve. The only way is to look at your weaknesses and work hard on them and even then maybe you only hold off the decay not improve. Among these weaknesses are a reluctance to get injured - again. My major injuries are mostly work related, overuse or similar. Achilles tendon injury with a chainsaw, crushed lumbar vertebrae and pelvic injury from falling back and getting knocked out turning a huge log from the "cant-hook" breaking during the lumberjack years before using my brain to study and get out of the woods. Broken ankle on a rescue, collar bones from motor cycle and bike race crashing, concussion and neck injury from mountain biking, and a slipped disc (most painful of them all) from a shite core. None of these makes you want to take a ground fall and why I take a clip stick for some routes </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I had many good trad years ticking off many classics, almost all the hard rock routes, and a few of the extreme rock climbs. Many of the most memorable days were not on hard routes but good days with good people on classic routes. It's not good to be too hung up on grades although the old graded lists in SMC guidebooks and some routes reputations gave goals to train for, and an impetus to get better at it. Mostly trad was about a head game not always how physically strong you were. Many routes had an aura about them but very few deserved it.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xlcWiVk-gn5ZJmPC17QfeApkG07_3iEICnubV1fATiLuMASiv6S6uW3XsRGs9ThkZRiSimOuKHr9KgF3DyGJtcWQ_RPc_beSwpwbO61s-Sq37P2cUEUz1ibPvL_vGUGe5T6Ge-YUHM8/s1600/Georges+Bush+6a.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xlcWiVk-gn5ZJmPC17QfeApkG07_3iEICnubV1fATiLuMASiv6S6uW3XsRGs9ThkZRiSimOuKHr9KgF3DyGJtcWQ_RPc_beSwpwbO61s-Sq37P2cUEUz1ibPvL_vGUGe5T6Ge-YUHM8/s320/Georges+Bush+6a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Dunira "Georges Bush"</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
I came late to sport climbing. After years of being among other things, a paramedic, climbing instructor, ski instructor, ski patrol. I then took at job at Joint Services Mountain Training. A great place to work among enthusiastic mountaineers. Only I was burnt out, and for a long time climbing had a smaller place in my life. Eventually the lads at work got me back into it and with the opening of the ice factor I took an interest in training and getting back into climbing more seriously. Then came bike racing (again) and a bit of a swansong until 3 years ago when training on the local roads just became stupid. What to replace it with? I migrated into sport climbing and competitions. Mainly because Duncan my son was climbing very well and training hard and it rubbed off on me. I realised that with a modern approach and the "knowing how to train" from bike racing I could get right into it from an analytical point of view and see how an ageing and slightly worn body could adapt to training loads for climbing. Very quickly I realised that running and cycling took away from hard sport climbing if you wanted to improve.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRACCyexgbVPWDjICniX5KKN6N-ymC6DH5ZP9u2TZdVGD_-Db4znh4C38XQsDgAkEvphSQ31nSstodYBnvANoJo3piCSH1VZR9tNg8IvBOP4r0DJ3nMgpX0BZGHDwk9vXDsd0ekNgicjw/s1600/IMG_4271.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRACCyexgbVPWDjICniX5KKN6N-ymC6DH5ZP9u2TZdVGD_-Db4znh4C38XQsDgAkEvphSQ31nSstodYBnvANoJo3piCSH1VZR9tNg8IvBOP4r0DJ3nMgpX0BZGHDwk9vXDsd0ekNgicjw/s320/IMG_4271.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sanna Bay Bouldering</b></td></tr>
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From just going to the wall to lead or top rope to get the endurance, I then found the single biggest benefit was bouldering, and lots of it. Not the floppy bouldering of arsing around. Focused problem solving and identifying my physical weaknesses and working problems. Very quickly it was apparent that cycling had done me no favours and my hips were tight and my core weak. Sure, I could rock out 30 sit ups and plank a couple of minutes, but that's not the only core you need. Stretching, yoga. weights and a big variety of stuff was needed. And I continue to work on it. Also finger strength. I had always been told I had strong fingers. For trad maybe, for harder bouldering or sport not so. So a finger board and weights has sorted that out to some extent (and given a few chronic injuries!) <a href="https://latticetraining.com/">"Lattice"</a> testing and training gives the numbers to see how its going. Outside sport requires indoor training discipline. I often have "me" days where I go up to a wall specifically to do repeaters of easier routes with a weight belt for endurance, or nights where I target a few newly set hard routes and try and onsight them. I prefer onsighting 6c/7a to working 7b, but if a harder route inspires me, I am happy to work it. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxJFKKUxe82XPlg99lDwEiRwn55v5z6O4lsVPu6NYFAVnoa9PPer4Ysi51Rhb1l9vK6EGVLtDt-ulvDArU2ZU0vw_9PwBMnEsRxWYc-tSZPH_Hg5gFJ1wQ71hjp89sdbncbEjHN48IhU/s1600/Duncan+3.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1065" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxJFKKUxe82XPlg99lDwEiRwn55v5z6O4lsVPu6NYFAVnoa9PPer4Ysi51Rhb1l9vK6EGVLtDt-ulvDArU2ZU0vw_9PwBMnEsRxWYc-tSZPH_Hg5gFJ1wQ71hjp89sdbncbEjHN48IhU/s320/Duncan+3.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Lower Lednock "Black Magic"</b></td></tr>
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Bouldering helps with the harder routes as it helps with seeing sequences and patterns and working out body positions. This helps when on the harder lead routes (IMHO). The wall in general also gives a carry over. We get such shite weather that the wall cushions the days or weeks between outdoor days as you are kept strong. I personally don't find it too bad going for a month with only indoors then going hard out. As long as you are pushing it hard leading indoors you retain the clipping technique, endurance, and can read the rock. Perhaps the only weakness is footwork but with conscious thought and quiet feet this can also be worked indoors.</div>
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So, sport climbing, bouldering and indoor climbing have been great for me. It provides a training purpose, goals, and a social with both young and old like minded folks. Many of us older climbers struggle with illness as well. Mine relatively minor, but for others serious, and the local wall or easily accessible sport crag keeps them climbing and involved with the tribe that is climbing. That's important for both physical and mental health and an additional benefit of sport crags. Black Rock, Dallens and Clach a Phrionnsa as three good local examples.<br />
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It could also be said that given the availability of local rock very few folks are putting the work into development and these venues mentioned would not be there without the graft of two or three locals. Black Rocks harder routes are still needing re bolted but I guess folks do not have the time or money to do this. Rannochan as well. Young Tom Ballard was ahead of the game. It would be good memorial to him to have all his local sport routes re equipped IMHO and I would happily put money into a bolt fund.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHVThVV7lmxc3-7Wp9nMoRTSxjGNyHtMxGR9oEqq3pQHki8M0htnt4gUKKskeDpmbWRGqtEB_r_bBE0R9q-SeawjXTyJr87unzKbsx1C9y5-vwDsAvPv7-feYWRcVe_4hcT2yxTOt0_Y/s1600/20180626_165140.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHVThVV7lmxc3-7Wp9nMoRTSxjGNyHtMxGR9oEqq3pQHki8M0htnt4gUKKskeDpmbWRGqtEB_r_bBE0R9q-SeawjXTyJr87unzKbsx1C9y5-vwDsAvPv7-feYWRcVe_4hcT2yxTOt0_Y/s320/20180626_165140.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>"Uncertain Emotions" Tunnel Wall Glencoe</b></td></tr>
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Tom was ahead of his time in Lochaber, as was "Cubby" before him on the Tunnel Wall. Sport climbing was long shunned by the more traditional Scottish mountaineers. Bolt chopping and slagging was rife until relatively recently. I always found that both bizarre and hypocritical given climbing history. Many harder trad classics are only climbable at their grade and safe because pegs were banged in after technical ability wasn't up to it and only hammering the route into submission remained. Also, past legends were not averse to the odd rest, point of aid, or pre placed runner. Sport climbing is at least honest about being fun and about technical challenge. </div>
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It's also a safer fun way to utilise areas where climbing most likely would not happen. It's also the entry point for many transitioning from inside to out. Many good sport climbers later go on to enjoy the adventure of trad routes, although most drop many grades until they get a feel for how to climb them safely. Sport climbing can't be ignored and is mainstream, and the old guard should embrace it and guide it in the right direction. There are acres of rock unsuitable for trad climbing in the honeypot areas such as Glencoe that could be developed, but folk are too scared to touch it in case the grey haired ghosts of climbing past come and revile them. The old masters need to embrace Sport and encourage appropriate development. Sporting a Kalymnos suntan and yet not supporting the same type of climbing in Scotland is just hypocrisy. Sport climbing is not apostasy, it's just another aspect of enjoying climbing rock. If folk need convincing, just look at how many youths and younger folk are having fun doing it. Scottish climbing is not all about the past, it's also about the future and Sport is part of it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LSPEQitTbm84QzHkQ0ubOYHqXCIeSoh5HjcaZLKIkrhp7v7DwMGudVIemPRSNAt7CqgjMhu98BL2bGCiGOvfkp_uMVc-8XgjFj2SVonHSQmZZIkWj6WXVmxA9SVclFIUMTi8rNjpnLY/s1600/20180626_165140.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LSPEQitTbm84QzHkQ0ubOYHqXCIeSoh5HjcaZLKIkrhp7v7DwMGudVIemPRSNAt7CqgjMhu98BL2bGCiGOvfkp_uMVc-8XgjFj2SVonHSQmZZIkWj6WXVmxA9SVclFIUMTi8rNjpnLY/s400/20180626_165140.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Yes we do still "trad" Ardnamurchan "Uisge"</b></td></tr>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-68670237708318120622022-10-13T09:20:00.001+01:002022-10-13T14:58:40.977+01:00Avalanches, Beacons and Being Searchable<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: small; line-height: 18px;"><b>1. Learn How to Interpret the Avalanche Forecast. Don't get avalanched ......</b></span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7khJtjq5iUMcz0GmdlL73c5_JE9v2JOKcutRqTemkPtTQqIYycQLfHQl7RCMd8l6UDxo9bFiJKQP_j2k0mdXCwBK37YGQR5_8U9_jrojlworJjXM_Lmprihv8X9K2quxlWwfWW7BvSOk/s1600/untitled.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7khJtjq5iUMcz0GmdlL73c5_JE9v2JOKcutRqTemkPtTQqIYycQLfHQl7RCMd8l6UDxo9bFiJKQP_j2k0mdXCwBK37YGQR5_8U9_jrojlworJjXM_Lmprihv8X9K2quxlWwfWW7BvSOk/s400/untitled.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><span class="drop_cap">T</span>he Avalanche Danger Scale uses five progressively increasing danger levels: Low, Moderate, Considerable, High and Extreme. It indicates the likelihood of avalanches, how they might be triggered and recommended actions in the back country. </i></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.1px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>However, the wording is very brief and does not include a meaningful indication of risk. Below is an explanation of each danger level, including the transitions between levels, signs of instability at each level and the implications of slope angle, aspect and elevation.</i></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" id="more-1385" style="font-size: x-small;"></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">Understanding the SAIS forecast as acting on it could save your life</span></b></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Travel is generally safe. The snow pack is well bonded and natural avalanches will not be seen except for small sluffs on extremely steep slopes. Human-triggered avalanches are unlikely except in isolated locations in extreme terrain. The danger will usually be from wind-driven snow in gullies and chutes or deposited across very steep open slopes near ridge lines. Ski or board one by one as smoothly as possible without falling if you suspect the formation of wind slab. Be aware of shaded, north to east aspects where the danger may be transitioning to Moderate. There are few fatalities at this danger level.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: #444444; color: yellow; font-size: large;"><b>Moderate</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This is the most difficult danger level for back country skiers and boarders to assess snow stability. Many of the usual indicators such as cracks, settling, whumpfing and signs of recent avalanche are absent, especially at the lower end of the moderate level. Key indicators are any recent snowfall, and wind deposition. Snow pack tests may help assess stability.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br />Conditions are generally favourable for travel providing routes are chosen carefully. The snow pack is only moderately bonded on some steep slopes. Areas of danger are usually restricted to certain types of terrain such as bowls and gullies. The altitude, aspect and type of terrain where danger can be expected are usually detailed in the Avalanche Forecast. Remote triggering is unlikely, so you only need to be concerned about the steepness of nearby terrain features.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Human-triggered avalanches are possible. Ski or board carefully, one by one, in suspect terrain and avoid high loading of the snow pack by spreading people out on the uphill track. Carefully evaluate the stability of very steep slopes (steeper than 35°) and aspects identified as potentially dangerous in the<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1130980465"> </a><b><a href="http://www.sais.gov.uk/latest-forecasts.asp" target="_blank" title="Avalanche Forecast">Avalanche Forecast</a>.</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Be especially careful if the higher elevation band in the forecast, or the danger on other aspects, is Considerable. There is a significant difference in instability between Moderate and Considerable. Don’t get sucked onto higher, steeper and more dangerous slopes. Although naturally triggered avalanches are not expected, ice climbers should watch out for the sun warming steep collection zones above their climbs. </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If deep-slab instability due to a </span><a href="http://kananaskisblog.com/persistent-weak-layers/2009/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><b>persistent weak layer</b></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> is mentioned in the Avalanche Forecast, you need to pay careful attention to the terrain. Avalanches from such a layer are not only likely to be large and extensive, they are completely unpredictable. Unless you have specific local knowledge, keep off large open slopes at this danger level if the forecast warns of a persistent weak layer.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKDn5CQ8PVWeoQzqYjkqEmZo8ejjH7iVNn6JskpfP6rqc-XhRnnEiKAAIdEg8i-n24KYHiLEaiQMThCedsqKEmrvdcS_CU4v8PajeJ4_f3xM5bY0gJpTBAsP7Jtqv58HZYIgFkxiWDtk/s1600/29th+March+2013.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKDn5CQ8PVWeoQzqYjkqEmZo8ejjH7iVNn6JskpfP6rqc-XhRnnEiKAAIdEg8i-n24KYHiLEaiQMThCedsqKEmrvdcS_CU4v8PajeJ4_f3xM5bY0gJpTBAsP7Jtqv58HZYIgFkxiWDtk/s200/29th+March+2013.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>29th March 2013 using the older SAIS Graphic for localised considerable hazard</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Persistent Weak Layer March 2013</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdgWkC4EGS4-scZJVNHIklDXt8QMzu9C7Y1tzv7GC7pephhubc1F6En-_p_SY7UPMZIoDBGgNkhCA9zgXqiUxiPmqL-TeDZ876TDqrdYITpA6CG3Dd7FnoO1q6eJmP9qnFxOIA6ZMZdwg/s1600/DSC_0117.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdgWkC4EGS4-scZJVNHIklDXt8QMzu9C7Y1tzv7GC7pephhubc1F6En-_p_SY7UPMZIoDBGgNkhCA9zgXqiUxiPmqL-TeDZ876TDqrdYITpA6CG3Dd7FnoO1q6eJmP9qnFxOIA6ZMZdwg/s320/DSC_0117.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Large Slab Triggered off persistent weak layer 30th March 2013</b><br />
<b>Fatal Avlx x 1 Skier Glencoe</b></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: #444444; color: orange; font-size: large;"><b>Considerable</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Conditions have become much less favourable. The snow pack is only moderately or poorly bonded over a much larger area of the terrain. Human triggering is possible by a single skier on steep slopes and aspects mentioned in the Avalanche Forecast. Remote triggering of avalanches is possible, so the maximum steepness of the slope above you should be used when deciding if you want to continue.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Instability indicators mentioned in Moderate danger above will likely be present. Back country touring at this danger level requires good route finding skills, and experience in recognising dangerous terrain and evaluating slope stability. </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Keep to slopes of less than 35°, especially slopes at the altitude and aspect indicated in the Avalanche Forecast. Remember that remote triggering is possible. Typically the scree fans at the bottom of gullies start out at around 30° and the slope steepens as it gets higher. Keep off such slopes at this hazard level. The remarks about persistent weak layers in the previous section on Moderate danger level also apply to this danger level.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwktg5q_tG39Dmw-Pxo2gXjOqODp7Q_3MDZ2TcD6N8ah79YriPSnoBTfGar05NzzzXvnEhtdwRiFV9XY0nT_-k9spb4w13-MUE5f-tWjM_B_wQRX1E6KYxiqszTFNk4X89eDKHj-S5RXI/s1600/Picture2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="313" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwktg5q_tG39Dmw-Pxo2gXjOqODp7Q_3MDZ2TcD6N8ah79YriPSnoBTfGar05NzzzXvnEhtdwRiFV9XY0nT_-k9spb4w13-MUE5f-tWjM_B_wQRX1E6KYxiqszTFNk4X89eDKHj-S5RXI/s200/Picture2.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New SAIS graphic as stripes for localised "considerable"</td></tr>
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<span class="text_exposed_show" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; display: inline; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 18px;"><i><br />Reports such as the above showing stripes as areas of localised "considerable" risk to North and South within a moderate NW to SW aspect and considerable risk NE to SE. This is the sort of thing that it's easy to become complacent about as its a common feature of the Scottish winter. You might very obviously if you have any sense, stay well clear of the NE to SE aspects but wander into a high risk situation on descent on the N to S aspects. The majority of avalanche incidents in Europe occur in these moderate to considerable forecast days as they occur most frequently in the season and folk become complacent (the familiarity heuristic) and that's why route choice approaching a climb and thinking about descent options prior to leaving and during a trip as wind and weather change should become part of your thinking.</i></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: #444444; color: red; font-size: large;"><b>High</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Conditions have become dangerous, most often as a result of significant amounts of new snow, snowfall accompanied by wind or the snow pack becoming isothermal and threatening wet-snow avalanches. The snow pack is poorly bonded over large areas and human triggering is likely on steep slopes (steeper than 30°). Remote triggering is likely and large natural avalanches are to be expected.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Stay on slopes that are flatter than 30° for any part of the slope and be aware of the potential for avalanches from slopes above. If you do decide to walk ski or board on less steep slopes, be very aware of the surrounding terrain to avoid inadvertently crossing the bottom of steeper slopes or cutting down a steep convex rollover.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Usually this level of hazard is only present for a few days at a time. The smart back country traveller will stay in simple terrain until conditions improve. If you are caught out on a multi-day trip you may have to dig in and wait for travel conditions to improve and the avalanche danger to lessen.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>These stripes in the avalanche forecast. My take is to think of them as landmine strips blown by the wind, lurking in eddies from cross loading when the wind blows across as well as down or over a slope, the colour of them is the sensitivity of the pressure plate to you the trigger. If there are enough of them the explosion will propagate setting of others, or if the surrounding slope is weak enough then it will slide with it. As you can see there are areas of High on slopes with a localised "considerable" and a"considerable" risk to the South. A lethal combo of narrow safe travel options making for events that will take lives if you don't tread warily and navigate with extreme care.</i></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Extreme danger levels are rare in Scotland as usually this level is associated with buildings and roads or alpine villages under threat, and usually the result of unusually large amounts of new snow. The snow pack is weakly bonded and unstable. Numerous large avalanches are likely. The weight of the new snow can trigger avalanches on layers buried deep in the snow pack. Natural avalanches can release on slopes of less than 30° Back country touring is not recommended and often impossible. Avoid all avalanche terrain and keep well away from avalanche path run outs.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In psychology<b> <a href="http://psychology.wikia.com/wiki/Groupthink" target="_blank">"Groupthink" </a></b>or <b><a href="http://changingminds.org/explanations/theories/risky_shift.htm" target="_blank">"Risky Shift"</a> </b>behaviour is well known in groups and most of us will be aware that we have given in to it or even encouraged it. I strongly believe that in avalanche incidents in Scotland this groupthink or risky shift has become the biggest education issue and maybe why we see large group incidents or group events as occurred in the Cairngorms when two separate groups were avalanched last winter. Much has been made of the quick response from folk training in the corrie who helped. And good on them. What I am about to say is not a reflection on these helper folks choices, as I am sure they stayed in safe terrain. The "however" bit though is that just by being there and numbers increase with lots of MRT's training, and groups under instruction, then a larger "Groupthink" takes place. Groups less experienced or not under instruction maybe feel safe, what McCammon labels as Social Facilitation. I would call this a "risky shift". It's often this way in the climbing and skiing honey pots such as the Northern Corries where folk gather. Aonach Mor or ScRL in Glencoe are other places. Even if the waggon wheel of death shows Red on these slope aspects, they are still the places to be seen by the instructor masses who are now at the height of their annual gatherings with paying students. These are the places instructors are familiar with, and therefore where less experienced folk feel safer with an apparent safety in numbers. They maybe went there when they were on a course. Group thinking on a large scale perhaps.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Better minds than mine have already written about risky shift and here's an excellent article on it <a href="http://changingminds.org/explanations/theories/risky_shift.htm" target="_blank"><b>The Risky Shift Phenomenon and Avalanches.</b></a> This kind of stuff has been getting applied to avalanche instructor training for a while by AAA. Do current winter mountain training schemes include enough if anything on this sort of thing? I put this as a question, as I am certainly not in a position to know, and maybe it is already covered. What I do know is that there is nothing that can change the pretty piss poor odds if buried and that pretty universally all of us involved in avalanche education are trying to jump forward and get to "no rescue".</span><br />
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No matter what we do, mountains and people are unpredictable. As a keen off the piste skier I have to accept that luck is also in there as well, as on good snow days I am first in the que and having gone through the forecasts, stability tests you are only left with how the snow feels under you ski's and gut instincts. Sometimes it's a very subtle thing where in the morning it feels wrong, and by afternoon the snow "feels" safe. I don't know how the feck that would stand up in court! I also know its taken 40 years and I still can't always be sure it all won't go tits up one day. I also know that it pays to voice your opinion when in a group, and make your own choice, not getting swept along by the group and it's most vocal leader. Beware Risky Shift!</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-small;"><i>"Destiny is a good thing to accept when it's going your way. When it isn't, don't call it destiny; call it injustice, treachery, or simple bad luck"<b> </b></i> <span style="background-color: white;"><b>Catch 22</b> by Joseph Heller</span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="color: red;"><b>For backcountry travel, side stash/off piste, or indeed anything out of ski area and uncontrolled, always carry the three essentials of transceiver, shovel and probe and do a pre depart group beacon test and practise.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">2. Get a Beacon, Shovel and Probe. Some Transceiver Observations:</span></b></span></h2>These 3 antenna beacons are all good purchases, but like all technology when used for scenarios that are not simple then their effectiveness is challenged and quirks come out. Only realistic practise with the beacon you own will make you the user aware of what these are, and work arounds. What this means is practise and realistic scenarios to challenge you the searcher. That's what Beacon training parks are there to help you with. I have attempted to be non biased but declare a conflict of interest as I am an Ortovox retailer.<br />
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Auto revert or random transmit from rubber-neckers is the curse of the avalanche search. Be aware of it when on a long search, and be aware if its pre set on or you have to activate it as part of the pre trip beacon check.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I do a special offer of the pro level "Diract" and "Diract Voice" to <span style="background-color: white; text-align: start;"><span style="color: #1d2129;">SMR and Ski Patrol. For professionals I recommend folk wanting an upgrade to consider this very advanced Beacon. It takes you straight to the victim, has a very reliable "mark" feature and a host of other built in pro features such as actually displaying visually where each victim is with distance, a longer range (55m) than other digital beacons (most are 25m) and of course the smart antenna that gets you found faster</span></span><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1d2129;">. Also incorporated is a Recco reflector inside as back up and the smart antenna to get you found.</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1d2129;"><br /></span></span></span></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAc5GICXdDWFwpUmoFAtdrEvANFgUdu-FvM95Rit1bSU4mRIQl-n978lyUsAXa3sHqnDT5NTxIBMbBwypH-XCph024MUNWM9VWyv2J0r3MceLC5OpRgsAGsCB7uGF9oN2z-qHsfKf_RnJkTf3sZQx1nVTqzAavKnyEYkJFptf06LQANYvopx7Gotce/s1054/Capture%20diract.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="1054" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAc5GICXdDWFwpUmoFAtdrEvANFgUdu-FvM95Rit1bSU4mRIQl-n978lyUsAXa3sHqnDT5NTxIBMbBwypH-XCph024MUNWM9VWyv2J0r3MceLC5OpRgsAGsCB7uGF9oN2z-qHsfKf_RnJkTf3sZQx1nVTqzAavKnyEYkJFptf06LQANYvopx7Gotce/w640-h440/Capture%20diract.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>click over image to read</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDYHCWw57_Tw-aNdu9A7qeIfl1qqE5PYDlzKWricsntmWrD905mEwDJPF1e_6wBX4QOVXaclxaZg0LMijpk7bW2WspEV9jr0Q5bkqtOutwgzhKU0Ph4y4V1HF4zSKLsIEm72hlw_IORUpKypaXGlkc1ec4ViXACyipGl8sMxm7iVFJHjyXyKARq1K/s2500/11410-DIRACT_VOICE-D-01.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2500" data-original-width="2500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDYHCWw57_Tw-aNdu9A7qeIfl1qqE5PYDlzKWricsntmWrD905mEwDJPF1e_6wBX4QOVXaclxaZg0LMijpk7bW2WspEV9jr0Q5bkqtOutwgzhKU0Ph4y4V1HF4zSKLsIEm72hlw_IORUpKypaXGlkc1ec4ViXACyipGl8sMxm7iVFJHjyXyKARq1K/w400-h400/11410-DIRACT_VOICE-D-01.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Ortovox Diract Transceiver/Beacon</i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">3. Get some Training and Practice Digging</span></h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;"><b>Learn how to interpret the days SAIS forecast and some basic snowcraft</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;"><b>Learn how to use your transceiver effectively</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;"><b>Learn how to find, digout and take care of an avalanche victim</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Learn how to dig effectively as time is oxygen and your shovel is the key to living or dying. Can you resuscitate your friend or provide first aid if they are injured ?</b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br />4. Recco. Mountaineers are not Searchable - most of the time ...............</span></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzb30KN30lsyBpldxkWb96oUoDY9-BR95GZQsZTRB6wt5nxRKaCHYxc8EIVWH1XfOoC2vtu5i6nccODUtMxtaw4l5hjWW_lCkCEjlVxs6qDdbLdLILjh7SwHUs2rVEwiAvTW4xjdkYzE/s1600/Picture1.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #ff9900; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzb30KN30lsyBpldxkWb96oUoDY9-BR95GZQsZTRB6wt5nxRKaCHYxc8EIVWH1XfOoC2vtu5i6nccODUtMxtaw4l5hjWW_lCkCEjlVxs6qDdbLdLILjh7SwHUs2rVEwiAvTW4xjdkYzE/s320/Picture1.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Don't get buried! But if you do you want to be searchable </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">and found FAST!</span></b></div>
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<a href="http://www.recco.com/the-recco-system" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none;">Recco</a> is another important part of the organised rescue strategy. Education and avalanche avoidance is primary, being found early by companions if it goes wrong is vital and prior practise makes this work. Organised rescue requires a triple response: Dogs, Recco and Probe Lines. Until now <st1:country-region w:st="on">Scotland</st1:country-region> has only been able to apply two of the three unlike alpine rescue avalanche search where for years all three have been used. Survival is time critical. Much has been made of trauma being the main factor in poor survival in Scottish avalanches. Largely based on recent tragic avalanche incidents where trauma has clearly been the dominant factor.<br />
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<span style="color: #222222;">These anecdotal observations and opinions make easy it to forget the victims where</span><b><span style="color: cyan;"> <a href="http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0300957203001138">triple "H" syndrome</a></span></b><span style="color: #222222;"> has been the killer of which there have been many over the last decades. Anecdote though is not enough, and there is no recent data set from necropsy studies in </span><st1:place style="color: #222222;" w:st="on">Scotland</st1:place><span style="color: #222222;">, (if there is its not readily available). One thing is sure, being searchable and getting found quickly increases survival. Some Scottish MR teams already have Recco as part of their search strategy (Tayside, Glencoe, Cairngorm MRT's) and Cairngorm, Glencoe and Nevis Range Ski Patrol. A good thing. I can imagine nothing worse than a victim recovery delayed because a search team did not have a detector and the victim is found to have either a Recco reflector or a harmonic on them. Recco is of course for "organised rescue". Everyone including Recco and the clothing manufacturers endorse the view that not getting avalanched through education and training is better than needing any search devices which may be too late. However, in the real world shit still happens and unless someone is "searchable" a rescuer cannot find them readily even if the poor victim has bottomed out of the survival curve. We should not forget Robert Burnett's remarkable 22 hour survival in the Southern Cairngorm's. All victims surely deserve the benefit of the doubt and rescuers throwing all resources at an attempt for a live recovery.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBF1CVKvkkA5vLKnReykvaRE1MY2IM-2LitXIui0Vm-jW7Hbph6ZP-ckb1KdHFyg9YLMcvI2pIeFNwmi6RyPDerHK_otf2586OKaLKLuY-hQr0_PTuwNimWlrzwWIKKHWrmzD9OL30KQ/s1600/recco+systeme.JPG" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBF1CVKvkkA5vLKnReykvaRE1MY2IM-2LitXIui0Vm-jW7Hbph6ZP-ckb1KdHFyg9YLMcvI2pIeFNwmi6RyPDerHK_otf2586OKaLKLuY-hQr0_PTuwNimWlrzwWIKKHWrmzD9OL30KQ/s320/recco+systeme.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Small sticky reflectors that can be attached to boots or helmets</span></b></td></tr>
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As "off piste" and "Backcountry" skiing grows in popularity there is every reason to imagine that being more searchable can save lives. <b><span style="color: red;">Nothing can replace education and prevention, or fast effective companion rescue with beacon, shovel and probe</span></b>, but as ski patrols and MR teams take up Recco and the reflectors can be bought and carried then the chance of getting found alive by organised rescue if on scene quickly increases. I would recommend two reflectors to mountaineers, One front top and one back bottom.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlMRkn89QP_4lmVQz2KNPSZBMLgsbPiPii0-EWrDIBJdNB08W9QygZw7Yg9H1Cx2Io2Y3m8mEdTnK6Zm19ygeA1QzYw92PuEIc-ceCd8PVlsTIXoZvd_EUHiH-VifT20cDpdRiXIZdwg/s1600/Speed_RECCO.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #888888; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlMRkn89QP_4lmVQz2KNPSZBMLgsbPiPii0-EWrDIBJdNB08W9QygZw7Yg9H1Cx2Io2Y3m8mEdTnK6Zm19ygeA1QzYw92PuEIc-ceCd8PVlsTIXoZvd_EUHiH-VifT20cDpdRiXIZdwg/s320/Speed_RECCO.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sewn in reflector</span></b></td></tr>
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So Recco is here in <st1:place w:st="on">Scotland</st1:place> and its great to see the take up by enlightened Scottish rescuers adopting alpine best practise. Who knows when Recco will save a life, but if it does it's job then its been donation money well spent.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGy6zkD2QjKyJPQtnHFWJxYDRQr4I3KU3i8D032-sBl_FHz8_NZ1B6Stq9RnB1dzdo8tRyiQL3PsJqLjr0o0F1_eh3R_km4wL5QTvbPxra_qv3BHGhz7w-WR-di7be7VtOKPPKvO4YqYg/s1600/1.5m+alive.JPG" style="clear: left; color: #888888; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGy6zkD2QjKyJPQtnHFWJxYDRQr4I3KU3i8D032-sBl_FHz8_NZ1B6Stq9RnB1dzdo8tRyiQL3PsJqLjr0o0F1_eh3R_km4wL5QTvbPxra_qv3BHGhz7w-WR-di7be7VtOKPPKvO4YqYg/s400/1.5m+alive.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px; text-align: center;">Live recovery of a victim located by her Recco reflector from 3m burial</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8CIyh4JuTyxbotYTO-mlp5iZT7-7N-JUI5NQlkbdnTw44Xs7eDv9ge-8Jv29J-AX0IVkBO6CJbSSLHbH_ABL5Q5oOJ9-uaqjROj-T8K9ibPc50Sujtwo3jbXYIUyDkG9h1Hd9eBidYWo/s1600/Recco+Glencoe.JPG" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8CIyh4JuTyxbotYTO-mlp5iZT7-7N-JUI5NQlkbdnTw44Xs7eDv9ge-8Jv29J-AX0IVkBO6CJbSSLHbH_ABL5Q5oOJ9-uaqjROj-T8K9ibPc50Sujtwo3jbXYIUyDkG9h1Hd9eBidYWo/s400/Recco+Glencoe.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px; text-align: justify;">Glencoe Ski Patrol doing a precautionary combined 457mhz transceiver search and Recco harmonic search. The R9 detector searches both, and at close range can find many other harmonic devices such as mobile phones.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiqyf58f2NAEFRyHXiNHCuyXv4wrKbJs9bCaRYs_n555tiy8e92bYd7RWEnViLxA_6aLKCUTCdlEQcw8cyHmkiszYbxtTmfxPzhyTjPR-YmuzE-7yhY_47xYfMZOcUg7-4g6huiiXXh8/s1600/img_4783.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #888888; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiqyf58f2NAEFRyHXiNHCuyXv4wrKbJs9bCaRYs_n555tiy8e92bYd7RWEnViLxA_6aLKCUTCdlEQcw8cyHmkiszYbxtTmfxPzhyTjPR-YmuzE-7yhY_47xYfMZOcUg7-4g6huiiXXh8/s320/img_4783.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The reflector for Harmonic Radar or RECCO</span></b><br />
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<br />Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-71144464414364280672022-09-16T20:50:00.016+01:002023-08-21T17:21:35.564+01:00Fiona Gunn, née Ducker - A life<p style="text-align: justify;"><i> <span face="usual, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #515554; font-size: 18px;"><b>For what is it to die?</b></span></i></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>But to stand naked in the wind</i></div><i><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>and to melt into the sun.</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>And what is it to cease breathing?</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>But to free the breath from its restless tides,</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>that it may rise and expand and seek God, unencumbered.</i></div></i><p></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>Only when you drink from the river of silence</i></div><i><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>shall you indeed sing.</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>And when you have reached the mountain top,</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>then you shall begin to climb.</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>And the earth shall claim your limbs.</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>Then shall you truly dance</i></div></i><p></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><i>Kahlil Gibran "The Prophet"</i></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">How do justice to a remarkable woman, and share a life full of love family and adventure. Not an easy task but here is a eulogy to that remarkable person much of which was hidden under a self effacing manner and selfless character. She was a quiet Christian preferring to live her faith in acts of kindness rather than talking. Here's an insight into that person with some text and photos. The images will enlarge with a click over them if you wish.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5Sj3v7XnFvVSdpXhYyfR9PKQJroadttyQQTsPf6uT2T4CRFIMfPXvHEAMS4Ops7F-vH182ghrsr68TR3uCOKe7iY98JQDZKqO2slRngxeyKAHvJN0UoCe7ABFkRcXW33pWyQqo7eQxiCQrYGi8SjMmCqyGoRbfHPHPXYqTWPk_TcI6wtz2kFyn6v/s440/Fiona%20frock%20Bath.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="304" data-original-width="440" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5Sj3v7XnFvVSdpXhYyfR9PKQJroadttyQQTsPf6uT2T4CRFIMfPXvHEAMS4Ops7F-vH182ghrsr68TR3uCOKe7iY98JQDZKqO2slRngxeyKAHvJN0UoCe7ABFkRcXW33pWyQqo7eQxiCQrYGi8SjMmCqyGoRbfHPHPXYqTWPk_TcI6wtz2kFyn6v/w400-h276/Fiona%20frock%20Bath.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Young Fiona already with flowers</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Fiona was born in Bath 28/02/1960. A child full of character and with a mind of her own from an early age. She spent formative early years with her parents John and Mary in Africa where they were called for mission work, John flying a Cessna to various remote corners of Africa delivering doctors, medical supplies and doing important work. Mary manning the radio and bringing up Fiona and her siblings Chris, Pandy and Julia who arrived later. Fiona remembered the float plane and swimming in Lake Victoria after a Hippo check flypast, and memorable dirt track journeys to and from School in Jos Nigeria. Kenya, Sudan, Chad and Tanzania were countries they worked in over the years and John thinking nothing of a quick nip into the Ngorongoro crater to see the wildlife with family or friends. Africa left an indelible impression, some good some not so. A common thing with Mission children. Sadly we never got back to some of these places. North Africa was as far as we got and the edge of the Sahara where we were turned back because their was a war.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjms0ffkcBvwapEIehXlqZalWp6dbvEiSS3v-QZ2zFhkJ-yhJihTFTdcp5uK9EuTylQAoSO00uGOhgE33P4fiKAJgNpoQ-3SIu5xmvedAL62vv9fkCRd66yAFEwF4IrlMHIamzj_yL1V6sAXXv6IPw-rrzqs7Kftt58EWN7ZmA85sPp710SIK-WqSTb/s1663/Duckers%20Nile.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1145" data-original-width="1663" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjms0ffkcBvwapEIehXlqZalWp6dbvEiSS3v-QZ2zFhkJ-yhJihTFTdcp5uK9EuTylQAoSO00uGOhgE33P4fiKAJgNpoQ-3SIu5xmvedAL62vv9fkCRd66yAFEwF4IrlMHIamzj_yL1V6sAXXv6IPw-rrzqs7Kftt58EWN7ZmA85sPp710SIK-WqSTb/w472-h325/Duckers%20Nile.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>John, Mary Fiona, Chris and Angela (Pandy)</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrtnYK9UGGs67EdB3lemJbFkkWrhUT3e92ira5USbxRDNRVPNdaLI2uExAcw3fDQXWbxekm5M0BZmyK9SgkD7fBnz307DJCr7mjWcommO5ar8QKNSJXmXAB6H3nA00AQpixYItuYERHY5-CS71tXU0M0EZvh5lYC9ZSf3Mlt-bx87Ea6DF_U5-N2w/s2440/Fiona%20and%20Dolly.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1692" data-original-width="2440" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrtnYK9UGGs67EdB3lemJbFkkWrhUT3e92ira5USbxRDNRVPNdaLI2uExAcw3fDQXWbxekm5M0BZmyK9SgkD7fBnz307DJCr7mjWcommO5ar8QKNSJXmXAB6H3nA00AQpixYItuYERHY5-CS71tXU0M0EZvh5lYC9ZSf3Mlt-bx87Ea6DF_U5-N2w/w400-h278/Fiona%20and%20Dolly.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fiona defending dolly from curious locals</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZuO63Q7xM4TiqrguCqiPYgBH7ySLlRljQNAkOjyoAb89PVBPt9Se_hdsGbH7i55gIbkprMqqPpx6xnbisPApib_bvBk1TXZ4-N1QcJ1y8t3LXLCkdYcD05bbKQAvPld0LLJ09KCdzMHu4gtHH0Oc55Lirpo7ZYJ7JIxANU9UWXYy-_Gbof3FmQdm/s4849/Fiona%20at%20White%20Blue%20Nile%20Junctions.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4849" data-original-width="3299" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZuO63Q7xM4TiqrguCqiPYgBH7ySLlRljQNAkOjyoAb89PVBPt9Se_hdsGbH7i55gIbkprMqqPpx6xnbisPApib_bvBk1TXZ4-N1QcJ1y8t3LXLCkdYcD05bbKQAvPld0LLJ09KCdzMHu4gtHH0Oc55Lirpo7ZYJ7JIxANU9UWXYy-_Gbof3FmQdm/w273-h400/Fiona%20at%20White%20Blue%20Nile%20Junctions.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fiona at the Blue and White Nile junction</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">When a pre teen she came back to Wadhurst School in Sussex where she stayed until the family decided to come back to the UK and set up the Christian Adventure Trust on Tanera Mor just off Achiltibuie North of Ullapool. At 16 she was a boarder at Dingwall academy. Tanera was formative, it was here that a young girl evolved into a woman with a taste for adventure that could run rampant among the mountains and in the sea. Kayaking, Sailing and Mountaineering, sun bleached blond hair and brown as a berry from a life outdoors. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXerffoWp-x7RT6qQjPjfIQiorEWB2bpsj7l0k4eIJ1HnibZnCm9vgMGCmqJlLJjOVK9THNmOtDaub7Xe_8TGxeFThamKtYJVs5l7G0spU3GnKUtZFD_z2Zy4-ur28FYdInGGHEQg3xDjRfPrsPKA3ar5SiwZExF06-MS2D_gz-4JgvSmH62jp__rF/s916/Fiona%20Tanera.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="811" data-original-width="916" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXerffoWp-x7RT6qQjPjfIQiorEWB2bpsj7l0k4eIJ1HnibZnCm9vgMGCmqJlLJjOVK9THNmOtDaub7Xe_8TGxeFThamKtYJVs5l7G0spU3GnKUtZFD_z2Zy4-ur28FYdInGGHEQg3xDjRfPrsPKA3ar5SiwZExF06-MS2D_gz-4JgvSmH62jp__rF/w400-h354/Fiona%20Tanera.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Wild Child Fiona on her summer holidays at Tanera Mor</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTSRh40GBZVlzKt5EZan7kfGK29XQ5YwJNaIyjdHeRQFUgL1oOVq3A69j4lGbk21t-j1bke2sfR42IdSxqc98zUKTTWEh5ZV_0s7pcdpmNbSb861IHOIhUG1dC5qbd0MrFJA0F4Hrtai7OyImUlL3Hxgei4ilnN8lQUkb4LuAzrnnwJS9JoydOkkC/s400/Pony's.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="271" data-original-width="400" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTSRh40GBZVlzKt5EZan7kfGK29XQ5YwJNaIyjdHeRQFUgL1oOVq3A69j4lGbk21t-j1bke2sfR42IdSxqc98zUKTTWEh5ZV_0s7pcdpmNbSb861IHOIhUG1dC5qbd0MrFJA0F4Hrtai7OyImUlL3Hxgei4ilnN8lQUkb4LuAzrnnwJS9JoydOkkC/w640-h434/Pony's.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fiona right with one of the ponies on Tanera</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">The family moved from Tanera lock stock and barrel with staff in 1975 when the lease ran out on the Island. They moved to "Carnoch House" home of the late Hugh Grant, and re started as Carnoch Outdoor Centre. This ran from 1975 until 1988 before being bought and run by the Williams family as Glencoe Outdoor Centre which it is to the present day.</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">I first saw Fiona on her Icelandic pony riding bareback through the village with her sister Angela (known as Pandy by the family). Venga and Meshoni were the horses names. I was struck by this blond attractive girl looking a bit wild and interesting so meeting her at the Tidal pool one day didn't hesitate to ask her on a date. The date consisting of a walk to Clachaig and a pint of Cider for her and beer for me. The rest, well lets just say I had a girl/woman who didn't want to be tamed, was up for anything and always had a huge laugh and big smile not far from her face, even when half way up a deluge in Clachaig gully. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkM0RWl4B8QHV7ggd9ZWpb9BLvXapWa6uYfu0udyQuZvnb7nG9r9JZ9MFQ0j4TcNqAATep9SB7T6YFawZvkC-NbROZ-KeNFxF26qvj5VYuBcQc-_23QswjKgBHt1LTQ-mqBnJoOEJ6-BTjD5Nr9mbM6TVfVkSHyii9BOZUTXv65MKoBqM4GgWnVYVH/s705/Clachaig%20Gully%201979.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="566" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkM0RWl4B8QHV7ggd9ZWpb9BLvXapWa6uYfu0udyQuZvnb7nG9r9JZ9MFQ0j4TcNqAATep9SB7T6YFawZvkC-NbROZ-KeNFxF26qvj5VYuBcQc-_23QswjKgBHt1LTQ-mqBnJoOEJ6-BTjD5Nr9mbM6TVfVkSHyii9BOZUTXv65MKoBqM4GgWnVYVH/w514-h640/Clachaig%20Gully%201979.jpg" width="514" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Fiona in Clachaig gully retro style. Cynthia and her both soloed it one summer evening 1hr 50m bottom to top and back in the pub </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyYF5p_F7YF9TXU3Qvx-azp-JV-AZNwDYZkVDs4nyITWXRCibKzS5swe-IjEGWlaLH67vYpC5m5SXoLMdnljKR5s8llHzuwByTn_pV2n9IsROR9_CY6Lr6MC9Pmy3CJ-Z5Y2NsBZ3unzdwIivKzoRxFLTLmgvutOUq33lTIWLN_asENHv2yqKZ406/s2034/FG%20Carnivore%2077.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2034" data-original-width="1363" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyYF5p_F7YF9TXU3Qvx-azp-JV-AZNwDYZkVDs4nyITWXRCibKzS5swe-IjEGWlaLH67vYpC5m5SXoLMdnljKR5s8llHzuwByTn_pV2n9IsROR9_CY6Lr6MC9Pmy3CJ-Z5Y2NsBZ3unzdwIivKzoRxFLTLmgvutOUq33lTIWLN_asENHv2yqKZ406/w429-h640/FG%20Carnivore%2077.jpg" width="429" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The 17 year old bombshell mucking about on Carnivore which she later did in proper shoes. EB's</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9li3eMbN8KAQSruFFdY1sa-_VB3iU2qCPN3CqSBqqd3tdPCV1kNn8AIUqxly-l24jgmgpnwbwr7xOATmidy8voKxvxp6jsdttXhVuy2hfOT7TNZGosQVogY02A8hzUuFseQf_y0fUS7dZNv31x8vYI-HNJS7SuBsHtFfNn80wREtz1X-l92qG5Avw/s904/Fiona%20Dingwall.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="904" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9li3eMbN8KAQSruFFdY1sa-_VB3iU2qCPN3CqSBqqd3tdPCV1kNn8AIUqxly-l24jgmgpnwbwr7xOATmidy8voKxvxp6jsdttXhVuy2hfOT7TNZGosQVogY02A8hzUuFseQf_y0fUS7dZNv31x8vYI-HNJS7SuBsHtFfNn80wREtz1X-l92qG5Avw/w640-h640/Fiona%20Dingwall.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>17 years old at Dingwall Academy. A bit colder than Tanzania</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlem0iKWzR383A5_Y8hNc7WxT-8hzA1V4tIO52Msz6UX6q-j7jjKo9JYik9ooH8SBnhWUpvtY6Qn6TpzD3W55UUhyNxkrqZgXqkd22TxofHqWoFabX7TggMIKINmnmDRAxoS3kuCeWdCvopzH8mv6wt_lCGmTrQSRzDCJ9Q3VaoEPWK1DyPKzZ5T8m/s1421/WHW%20Ranger.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1421" data-original-width="995" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlem0iKWzR383A5_Y8hNc7WxT-8hzA1V4tIO52Msz6UX6q-j7jjKo9JYik9ooH8SBnhWUpvtY6Qn6TpzD3W55UUhyNxkrqZgXqkd22TxofHqWoFabX7TggMIKINmnmDRAxoS3kuCeWdCvopzH8mv6wt_lCGmTrQSRzDCJ9Q3VaoEPWK1DyPKzZ5T8m/w448-h640/WHW%20Ranger.jpg" width="448" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>At 21 Fiona was the first West Highland Way Ranger, a job she did for 3 years</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">She was just seventeen. Six months later we got engaged and Nov 1978 we got married in St Mary's Glencoe then moved into a tied house at Achindarroch Duror where I was working with a Forestry winch and Felling team clear cutting hundreds of thousand's of tons of old Growth forest. Some huge tree's and tragically some accidents including a fatal one to a friend. Fiona was involved as she was at home and the nearest phone for the emergency services. I was very much involved during our courtship and after with the mountain rescue team. Fiona came and helped on many rescues although not made to feel very welcome by some old hands, one of whom told her he came on rescues to get away from his wife and its no place for a woman! That she had climbed some of Glencoe's hardest routes and the complainant was no climbing star it was particularly ironic, and although it hurt it didn't bother her for long. She became a highly competent mountaineer summer and winter and shared a rope most often with me, but also climbed with many of the folks who went on to be IFMGA Guides or already had the carnet. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4xvIMMiKKo7EfffuI1Bd69nmVuoNup39s3TBsjEapnZHkng1SAshBFcQZsPrHA4VqMKYWiNlirabzNbMH2IWUqo0eCn3GHAnRtku17NUhQOgJcMERkaSukZFmsYKHVxSdK8fZH7bCAqxoQOFYpN9BdCITKZo-ap_VPGi8-L0r5mYA-XlpYuJc4Fdb/s800/IMG_7199.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="546" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4xvIMMiKKo7EfffuI1Bd69nmVuoNup39s3TBsjEapnZHkng1SAshBFcQZsPrHA4VqMKYWiNlirabzNbMH2IWUqo0eCn3GHAnRtku17NUhQOgJcMERkaSukZFmsYKHVxSdK8fZH7bCAqxoQOFYpN9BdCITKZo-ap_VPGi8-L0r5mYA-XlpYuJc4Fdb/w437-h640/IMG_7199.JPG" width="437" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fiona and I about to do "White Wall Crack"</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1K-YkIRrX2ejF6-nc5pyaww84UjyvlFM2Hni0k2fme3ZJCUk9KoEY_kRxrNGEVFj75TtOjhWv20eeh0gqhnNqmTWVVeBQlNc2Via2irmrWWLRvaTPNgUeRMZvAl34d5PGYw6gn6RJkAqMqbi79giX6JwI-nN_vokGIueG-hbttM5eU3lYZdScSMni/s1171/Highland%20X.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1171" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1K-YkIRrX2ejF6-nc5pyaww84UjyvlFM2Hni0k2fme3ZJCUk9KoEY_kRxrNGEVFj75TtOjhWv20eeh0gqhnNqmTWVVeBQlNc2Via2irmrWWLRvaTPNgUeRMZvAl34d5PGYw6gn6RJkAqMqbi79giX6JwI-nN_vokGIueG-hbttM5eU3lYZdScSMni/w640-h488/Highland%20X.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Fiona back right 3rd in next to Cathel MacLeod. Front runners Paul Moores, Jim Morning. The first Highland Cross event to raise funds for a CT Scanner for Raigmore. CT scans were to become a big part of life in the future. </i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Fiona was also a very good skier doing her BASI 3 when in her early twenties and helping run the ski school at what is now Glencoe Mountain but back in the late 70'a and 80's was "White Corries". The outdoor centre took over the ski school and ski hire from Ronnie Weir, running it for 10 years. When Philip Rankin did some midweek opening the ski school did the ski rescue as the weekend volly's were not up. Fiona often took the lead in first aid and rescue using the MacInnes stretchers up the hill getting folk down the old chair lift to the bottom. Fiona skied with a neatness and economy of effort even on steep terrain. We messed up once in Verbier ducking some ropes on Mont Gele into a couloir, and its was rock hard ice. It was very scary near death experience in this 1,500 gully, but she held it together even managing a kick step above an ice pitch. I couldn't make the kick turn and dropped the pitch nearly loosing it totally. The cable car had stopped above us to watch and when we got to the bottom the pisteurs just shook their heads. Not sure if it was admiration or or bewilderment!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-JvK_8jKurTDZwufWcUfu9KatildKvFM2bm_jzN80JHkBkFtySqosmrKdOD1aeHITQBsvWE5x4KuD1BSpafqtzrHCzTfHDa8xedEfplu0vT49xd2YQZLsWHsIC8M5b71E829ko2OvKtesvYzBEw-GwHQ4eBfc01TbOmBfz7e4251jPAp-kmyFrI96/s4032/Back%20corries.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-JvK_8jKurTDZwufWcUfu9KatildKvFM2bm_jzN80JHkBkFtySqosmrKdOD1aeHITQBsvWE5x4KuD1BSpafqtzrHCzTfHDa8xedEfplu0vT49xd2YQZLsWHsIC8M5b71E829ko2OvKtesvYzBEw-GwHQ4eBfc01TbOmBfz7e4251jPAp-kmyFrI96/w640-h480/Back%20corries.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Below Easy Gully Nevis Range</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Fiona was also a good sailor with an RYA senior instructors ticket which she gained at Cumbrae National Training centre on the Clyde, being assessed on the day of the famous 1986 Hurricane. We also did our windsurfing instructors awards there. Windsurfing was big part of our lives through the 80's. Any big wind day would see us loading up the boards or heading down to the Ballachulish sailing site to rip across the loch on our short boards or out to loch Linnhe for a bit of wind against tide wave action at Corran. Fiona also windsurfed the entire 26 mile length of Loch Ness on a Mistral short board, broad reaching miles more than the lochs length. She was a powerful and strong athlete, the term used these days would be ripped. With her bleached blond long hair she was bonny lass indeed. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNWS3gKXrznNiHBiA1WPL3s-JLDD4ufkKpwE8NnCqImL7JjhNAeqKW10MKSZy5KDkPaQ6kqJuWMAlUhdrcETg6qLqvsqtSYsAuLSDEPnAVO7e9ioyJMzjU9Og0quxlkNQmPmweD5SSzsKZF16Caui_fIY6tQm8dfZFBa4d67nHEUPnMtrl-uoGNz4/s798/Fiona%20and%20I.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="798" data-original-width="523" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNWS3gKXrznNiHBiA1WPL3s-JLDD4ufkKpwE8NnCqImL7JjhNAeqKW10MKSZy5KDkPaQ6kqJuWMAlUhdrcETg6qLqvsqtSYsAuLSDEPnAVO7e9ioyJMzjU9Og0quxlkNQmPmweD5SSzsKZF16Caui_fIY6tQm8dfZFBa4d67nHEUPnMtrl-uoGNz4/w420-h640/Fiona%20and%20I.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring 1979 seven months married</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZim3vqmDjK9dkiIW8HFeQW63YNmEMDGK3we0_YIbAzJTTyuqPcwXArCK0IvPEJRPsK0ebRjnCZHgAHmWIMgBlPJzxYEUXdo0xs_YCx_eC_Izv1yTcBEbjOGuBxgf265G41APqEcn61G2HWxkBaka74szhsl_TZC0BIDysYBUrLBQghQYpyMiPGg1A/s2048/Arisaig%20tiga.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZim3vqmDjK9dkiIW8HFeQW63YNmEMDGK3we0_YIbAzJTTyuqPcwXArCK0IvPEJRPsK0ebRjnCZHgAHmWIMgBlPJzxYEUXdo0xs_YCx_eC_Izv1yTcBEbjOGuBxgf265G41APqEcn61G2HWxkBaka74szhsl_TZC0BIDysYBUrLBQghQYpyMiPGg1A/w640-h480/Arisaig%20tiga.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>A foray off Arisaig on the long board during a family camping trip of which there were very many</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKgi-IxUDfAeSrEP7-bdDIFaoXMSeak-ai_EGKfNlP1Htsre3Nl5qw6XBZR3iX-80TtEG2uAdCatRujLreFLAOas7bpKkkMAJwl3rfHzWzFl9c6EOTGo6tDObYADZN95We7ckYqYen8OhKMHjBWfZ9S3x8sMG92KNU3WO_zufcgKdeHvDW0Gnshnbx/s4032/Arisaig%20Beach%20Family.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKgi-IxUDfAeSrEP7-bdDIFaoXMSeak-ai_EGKfNlP1Htsre3Nl5qw6XBZR3iX-80TtEG2uAdCatRujLreFLAOas7bpKkkMAJwl3rfHzWzFl9c6EOTGo6tDObYADZN95We7ckYqYen8OhKMHjBWfZ9S3x8sMG92KNU3WO_zufcgKdeHvDW0Gnshnbx/w640-h360/Arisaig%20Beach%20Family.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gunn Clan at the beach</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">We had married young. Fiona 18 and me 21. We had a lot of fun in our twenties, but settled after 12 years married and decided to have a family. One last adventure being us both working a full ski season in the French alps working at various resorts such as La Clusaz, Valloire, Vars, Les Orres and finally in Pra Lou until late April. From March we new Fiona was expecting as we had planned to start a family. It was hard work running the ski school, liaising with the ESF instructors and dealing with morning sickness, as well as odd days above 2,300m. Fiona didn't adapt well to altitude above 2,300m, I was fine, but I was not expecting.</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">On our return in May I met up with Dr Bob one of the British Association of Ski Patrollers' <a href="https://www.basp.org.uk/" target="_blank">(BASP) </a>founders. I had met up with Bob and fellow patrollers over the previous two years during and after the associations founding. He mentioned that the current association secretary was standing down and the position vacant. So Fiona's name was put forward and at the 1990 agm at Kingshouse she became secretary. Part time working from home it was ideal when Esther came along. She continued with BASP for the next 23 years developing both the association and first aid training programme. BASP became the leading provider of First aid and medical training for outdoor pursuits instructors and NGB's as well as many mountain rescue teams. Organising courses all over the alps and UK, and also international meets such as <a href="https://www.fips-skipatrol.org/#:~:text=F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration%20Internationale%20des%20Patrouilles%20de%20Ski%20(FIPS)%20is%20the%20international,membership%20from%20throughout%20the%20world." target="_blank">FIPS</a>. During this time we were blessed with Duncan my son and later with Rebekah. Juggling family and work long before Covid. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2AQZQvqmwiEV-Z0ps2OLRP4KQG7_r1HkKdy3dg7eqHV-V_F_9ZGfjJ2-5Qw1Nj1sqIthV8SS3B5gTVAcXt2GjiFMrM26wZ06J8PBpW_nmZqU7hRWwwpXGCVrPBBOQ2qxbg1VrpN4bDxnCe9NKY5cosUN3iK7PHYSJVa2TC2p_YhASMoQwolh_NQD/s960/64177_593683710642076_1013285918_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2AQZQvqmwiEV-Z0ps2OLRP4KQG7_r1HkKdy3dg7eqHV-V_F_9ZGfjJ2-5Qw1Nj1sqIthV8SS3B5gTVAcXt2GjiFMrM26wZ06J8PBpW_nmZqU7hRWwwpXGCVrPBBOQ2qxbg1VrpN4bDxnCe9NKY5cosUN3iK7PHYSJVa2TC2p_YhASMoQwolh_NQD/w640-h480/64177_593683710642076_1013285918_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Scottish Ski Patrollers training with the PHGM Modane crew at Tignes FIPS 2005. Fiona 2nd left</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiqnT5op79lrGRPLb6vFPb-C_d7oW1FQPlCAkpc4-xIyv_hrikkys5QqFNMCvYw5RR0VhKbddTfPsaLLsomBNIdZm9jzDbIS4s8IlL1JTrzc-tDStFMtWiChcP_eElxtsTZGpBmWRnboq9kNIgLNEr6roxLz-ejhtqIZv0s0Xw37PHiRzqfcixd4A3/s1600/Family.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiqnT5op79lrGRPLb6vFPb-C_d7oW1FQPlCAkpc4-xIyv_hrikkys5QqFNMCvYw5RR0VhKbddTfPsaLLsomBNIdZm9jzDbIS4s8IlL1JTrzc-tDStFMtWiChcP_eElxtsTZGpBmWRnboq9kNIgLNEr6roxLz-ejhtqIZv0s0Xw37PHiRzqfcixd4A3/w640-h480/Family.jpg" width="640" /></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The family meant everything to her. "I love you to the moon and stars" her favourite saying</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">She used her instructional skills to help all our family become competent skiers and rock climbers as well as she herself taking to mountain biking like a duck to water, and our 3 children enjoyed it. Many family holidays were to the 7 Stanes, weekends at trail centres, or constructing our own tracks around Glencoe. She and I also road biked, entering Sportive rides or weekly road racing or time trailing with West Highland Wheelers or North Argyll cycle club. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIPAWWL-h3sybFU1RVd3Y_R37yEl5dUR1URYSCm7kcIR_yvLqqRnf9ep7RM0fSAXNZuWHq1wgR3FUdkXhf41Eorp5ZKLdMU_RWT7m2Clf3gb54G3s9EKaSK5l4Le-2ndlZbiIJm5sERGoAlaM0voIoOTmpoRX-yGa-_xiWGYFnv6BdAZJpGABvtuQc/s2048/Fiona%20Glen%20Feshie.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIPAWWL-h3sybFU1RVd3Y_R37yEl5dUR1URYSCm7kcIR_yvLqqRnf9ep7RM0fSAXNZuWHq1wgR3FUdkXhf41Eorp5ZKLdMU_RWT7m2Clf3gb54G3s9EKaSK5l4Le-2ndlZbiIJm5sERGoAlaM0voIoOTmpoRX-yGa-_xiWGYFnv6BdAZJpGABvtuQc/w640-h480/Fiona%20Glen%20Feshie.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MTB Glen Feshie</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsJFUPU2lR1bqsNF9y6sQwxb4vtfn_wiZy4NGlPGXGk4MmQRAWN7ETeP2stbADuknpODMbYwSt4au_iWfiItl1Sh3ytij57_THAYwF81_7rbR6cOTiU381OaYpMw5RpkzkHR5ogHiM0YBy5oog4Weie3UlFYCdB-JS76rfEKjp-QJvTEZtOU6Syec/s1600/23370_ETC10_WJC_007632_QTY_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1065" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsJFUPU2lR1bqsNF9y6sQwxb4vtfn_wiZy4NGlPGXGk4MmQRAWN7ETeP2stbADuknpODMbYwSt4au_iWfiItl1Sh3ytij57_THAYwF81_7rbR6cOTiU381OaYpMw5RpkzkHR5ogHiM0YBy5oog4Weie3UlFYCdB-JS76rfEKjp-QJvTEZtOU6Syec/w426-h640/23370_ETC10_WJC_007632_QTY_1.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Etape Caledonia</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEeZbCxNza-_vcoDoeBKI6zCSV5XkfuFiwMKppEuyLovfHjtDH5InxSz-p3pioQ3UbWZzHwC9OGLzkIyv1eYPbaPOe9hc_wjDxJoQWMYfK-0pfGyCTY15M-ieREtimpDsLoBnrZQjULyEp_eHO6qJvE8_oHGxpuXZfzRMaNNR7ailfQGzsAk5T6Wzt/s2048/Fiona%20after%2048%20miles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEeZbCxNza-_vcoDoeBKI6zCSV5XkfuFiwMKppEuyLovfHjtDH5InxSz-p3pioQ3UbWZzHwC9OGLzkIyv1eYPbaPOe9hc_wjDxJoQWMYfK-0pfGyCTY15M-ieREtimpDsLoBnrZQjULyEp_eHO6qJvE8_oHGxpuXZfzRMaNNR7ailfQGzsAk5T6Wzt/w640-h480/Fiona%20after%2048%20miles.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>After 48 off road miles in the 3G's cycle race. We also won a pairs at a 10 under the Ben</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">After Cancer struck first in 2011 she raced less but did a lot of time keeping for the clubs. Always a good club volunteer. Until 2018 we biked a lot but that year the Cancer returned and major surgery on her skull between her eyes and then radio therapy set her back. Very few folk realised she had this as it wasn't visible. She basically had her forehead removed and put back but such was the surgical skill the big scars were under the hairline and not seen after the staples were out. She referred to the staples as her Tiara. She was back on the bike in a couple of weeks. I had by then got back into outdoor rock climbing as had my son Duncan, and the girls inside climbing.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZiwynH4mnIhGmSeKS6WpvxIyUB4hLR0TXP_A4oFAUA3N0Yo6W4zvemAKGW2KUjSxPSdTsQqn1z8zW8xlxYQoBaAVhNYnq7CVpLpz8n34EYt8ixsdf6hpTrg9QkK-r6dk5ftZH6Z8EpJVAmt4wmov7uq8Y4HWJFHji5I6dYtSnnSiQnwhiBDelUylh/s3264/IMG_0025.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZiwynH4mnIhGmSeKS6WpvxIyUB4hLR0TXP_A4oFAUA3N0Yo6W4zvemAKGW2KUjSxPSdTsQqn1z8zW8xlxYQoBaAVhNYnq7CVpLpz8n34EYt8ixsdf6hpTrg9QkK-r6dk5ftZH6Z8EpJVAmt4wmov7uq8Y4HWJFHji5I6dYtSnnSiQnwhiBDelUylh/w480-h640/IMG_0025.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>During Chemo her project was clearing "The Secret Garden"</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3vji_5E8RgbZSNNBAQLITn8_GsYGN3_2D4ve38_WQ51HsjVAvc8ARJIwPXQe0em4BEb7Mpb_S4GJ8ClAPYLB2RRbQ4mDFupPD3MaOUMRhFauQ2yBDPm9AIwvNDVP5QZDz71Hbo1A0d1AgKhf0xD28tVc_WKeuzrOzyZIXgKrEcICaaYK5uesxYma/s4032/Secret%20Garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3vji_5E8RgbZSNNBAQLITn8_GsYGN3_2D4ve38_WQ51HsjVAvc8ARJIwPXQe0em4BEb7Mpb_S4GJ8ClAPYLB2RRbQ4mDFupPD3MaOUMRhFauQ2yBDPm9AIwvNDVP5QZDz71Hbo1A0d1AgKhf0xD28tVc_WKeuzrOzyZIXgKrEcICaaYK5uesxYma/w640-h480/Secret%20Garden.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>The secret garden was and is a work in progress which was her therapy as much as any treatment. Its now in the good hands of a group of community volunteers who all loved Fiona.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVvlcP6mxtPCEwci97-edDara34Mqr4aTMCgdJbrS5tVz7IzVQEcIk709rAjl_ZrfKxzLC5hB6fRUuDe30ik0P_7j_438O_4tPXOZ2ioUrou_CpvZUhRA8q_bp80JCOa53d-0WOIcG0GDEEZZhorZKT_8ylEhZpbo0Aq62uZ4C6IgZWHmv9dNrXzd/s4032/20220813_104032.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVvlcP6mxtPCEwci97-edDara34Mqr4aTMCgdJbrS5tVz7IzVQEcIk709rAjl_ZrfKxzLC5hB6fRUuDe30ik0P_7j_438O_4tPXOZ2ioUrou_CpvZUhRA8q_bp80JCOa53d-0WOIcG0GDEEZZhorZKT_8ylEhZpbo0Aq62uZ4C6IgZWHmv9dNrXzd/w360-h640/20220813_104032.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>A woman who liked her hands in the soil and had very green fingers even the week before passing. She often used the language of flowers to express how she felt in giving plants to folks that had some meaning to how they were.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Fiona's mastectomy and surgical implant and rebuild of her chest wall meant she couldn't climb but she did belay us all, and in particular held my ropes from below on some hard sport climbs. She probably shouldn't have mountain biked but loved the thrill of a gnarly trail. She biked up until 3 months before she passed away. Despite an electric bike which she reluctantly bought, it was getting too much. </p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">After leaving BASP in 2012 she worked at West Highland College UHI until she passed away, enjoying 10 years with some great folk who became friends for life. She was a remarkable woman. Her grandmother who was a formidable lady aptly described her when she said "Ducker women are full of vim and vigour". </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZ2KjYJEk8scKOYeFq5e-fG0eBqXhMUrch0slgoG2jIZXuQpoiQuWYkSyv4XpcTEJx9ypvxy2C7Cm-OUVgjYWIO3bJ-YBRfTpJUhQSZ19E1dUxrnPdVdFw3c2siplklwoGDK6Hx7HcsgHHr3mZUHpXoo6R06YwUlYDTVV9XJGVqd0bKOOfMEkzMna/s2048/Julie%20Pandy%20Granny%20Fiona.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZ2KjYJEk8scKOYeFq5e-fG0eBqXhMUrch0slgoG2jIZXuQpoiQuWYkSyv4XpcTEJx9ypvxy2C7Cm-OUVgjYWIO3bJ-YBRfTpJUhQSZ19E1dUxrnPdVdFw3c2siplklwoGDK6Hx7HcsgHHr3mZUHpXoo6R06YwUlYDTVV9XJGVqd0bKOOfMEkzMna/w640-h480/Julie%20Pandy%20Granny%20Fiona.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Julia, Granny at 100, Angela (Pandy) and Fiona remarking that Ducker women had "Vim and Vigour"</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuk1rS-Vha4vZpjj2dPeDeTv2lZShUF_ogaVCKlVNrXWhF2BrWh8_xJByhqjuEdE24DF-_srBiZkge6Y53IuwImR3viO7teYheLtYbDJcruZCpychUqbAOTqRNJEfw8eg_Uko1wYRJ9jDe1nPzW3p4HQ-SS-oI8AXXGAJfocfRxo5ErOZ9zTgRF6c3/s4032/Fixing%20Dyson.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuk1rS-Vha4vZpjj2dPeDeTv2lZShUF_ogaVCKlVNrXWhF2BrWh8_xJByhqjuEdE24DF-_srBiZkge6Y53IuwImR3viO7teYheLtYbDJcruZCpychUqbAOTqRNJEfw8eg_Uko1wYRJ9jDe1nPzW3p4HQ-SS-oI8AXXGAJfocfRxo5ErOZ9zTgRF6c3/w480-h640/Fixing%20Dyson.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Motor replacement in a Dyson. She loved cars and between us we stripped an engine and re bored it and replaced it and the gearbox ourselves when just married, and she serviced the carburettor and was really good at setting engine timing.<br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVj2CYPAI_9TRaHuiqDOsOoOqicahryftCFdA1PhK51I3qkPOzkvf7xWY-NCN0ArjqRhfwa6i3wPysbxnWc1hkN0dZ6Rm-ryp5ECbXt3G9A5-x9_eJhOz2s9hoHa34f-2W0XBM-6bSKTPY9Y-nb_ayC1Pl0Q0MXsdQOniStnB_dBJWWQggMlPiHT_6/s3264/IMG_7738.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVj2CYPAI_9TRaHuiqDOsOoOqicahryftCFdA1PhK51I3qkPOzkvf7xWY-NCN0ArjqRhfwa6i3wPysbxnWc1hkN0dZ6Rm-ryp5ECbXt3G9A5-x9_eJhOz2s9hoHa34f-2W0XBM-6bSKTPY9Y-nb_ayC1Pl0Q0MXsdQOniStnB_dBJWWQggMlPiHT_6/w640-h480/IMG_7738.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Fiona doing a bit of Yoga at 10,000ft above Durango the Colorado bouldering mecca</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;">"Vim and Vigour". Very true, I count myself lucky to have married one with it in spades as she kicked me up the backside and made me whatever it is I became never ceasing to encourage, cajole and support. She supported me in mountain rescue, climbing, and all aspects of my life. It was she who recognised I had a good brain and should go into adult education and University. When I received my MBE I always thought it was hers and the family's more than mine. Behind every man is a good woman. That woman was Fiona to me and she was a stunning woman in every aspect. That she was in my life for 45 years is something I will always thank God for. We always felt we were the best for each other, and that glue kept us together until death parted us.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTkt3qwW5CnbhCOg2C4V8Eguyqnc4WnlUJt53l5oCMWAuESwAVBL2T0EoOeSsaY70hAXe_AUK3xqZCCYK3UWssC-CTCtF4rRDcfNl5v9Fn_EwqjYgaL6RYyeKYe8t-0uD98R7TxM9xrwTVqJp9hoj_Kwc2iV68W7pi2iSEqgisUNU8ll16Y14xzY7E/s1280/DSCF0027.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTkt3qwW5CnbhCOg2C4V8Eguyqnc4WnlUJt53l5oCMWAuESwAVBL2T0EoOeSsaY70hAXe_AUK3xqZCCYK3UWssC-CTCtF4rRDcfNl5v9Fn_EwqjYgaL6RYyeKYe8t-0uD98R7TxM9xrwTVqJp9hoj_Kwc2iV68W7pi2iSEqgisUNU8ll16Y14xzY7E/w480-h640/DSCF0027.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>MBE day with the Queen at Holyrood. She was so proud and yet it is she and the others worrying at home while we are out on the mountains that deserve the medals</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQpgLAM01eYCXof-86pg95ccc3WmNvlZoMl28DUy14jZJh2GcZwtpxUtjyEVQvuVFje01SDr5X5R2DrNrWJZg7H7AyVVbfsqQV-o3nc-Z_DjyfyeKpcEiB_J_mXPO42Qlx4Fj6CT28Z4MwYiz3M3HoYmDwvsg3E3Pj_3EQnOhYD1i3GLQieZQxbQGw/s5312/40th%20anniversary%20(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQpgLAM01eYCXof-86pg95ccc3WmNvlZoMl28DUy14jZJh2GcZwtpxUtjyEVQvuVFje01SDr5X5R2DrNrWJZg7H7AyVVbfsqQV-o3nc-Z_DjyfyeKpcEiB_J_mXPO42Qlx4Fj6CT28Z4MwYiz3M3HoYmDwvsg3E3Pj_3EQnOhYD1i3GLQieZQxbQGw/w360-h640/40th%20anniversary%20(2).jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>40th Wedding Anniversary</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4HOHM1-kjwjeQ07m-GsSNTjMHpTlhSdaYMzRbFh6Rr7Z_HbcZxAm_rnrG9EnzW7G3FvK8b_7ZF81ZUTfM8D0PNjzysrhkI5iTkuR_F21t_CSf6FzsXGRNWkQgI9zSbYgTPlt8xSk8FmLdjT92z548XAOFlQ_syRRbp9Iis37BR1BqYwWigI-s5MG/s4608/That%20look.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="4608" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4HOHM1-kjwjeQ07m-GsSNTjMHpTlhSdaYMzRbFh6Rr7Z_HbcZxAm_rnrG9EnzW7G3FvK8b_7ZF81ZUTfM8D0PNjzysrhkI5iTkuR_F21t_CSf6FzsXGRNWkQgI9zSbYgTPlt8xSk8FmLdjT92z548XAOFlQ_syRRbp9Iis37BR1BqYwWigI-s5MG/w640-h360/That%20look.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two oldies<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBGZspN2OfO1-moaag8H3Dymhn8OTM4gNrPWq9NEI63Ws0ckdW4YvwZgKgcZ3KlAFDXdpDWHvmgDSAIFFE6iP8nRRbKpMxYUqGVKrgkDUMTVv3UWTECU-l17-_vH4KpvPDHPcuJ6l-Yr8IHchGI0AB83QCNIGBPfWabmN2aoBw3dsWEGHenK5dn2Z/s2193/With%20Daisy%20and%20Etty%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1807" data-original-width="2193" height="528" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBGZspN2OfO1-moaag8H3Dymhn8OTM4gNrPWq9NEI63Ws0ckdW4YvwZgKgcZ3KlAFDXdpDWHvmgDSAIFFE6iP8nRRbKpMxYUqGVKrgkDUMTVv3UWTECU-l17-_vH4KpvPDHPcuJ6l-Yr8IHchGI0AB83QCNIGBPfWabmN2aoBw3dsWEGHenK5dn2Z/w640-h528/With%20Daisy%20and%20Etty%20garden.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i> She lived to see Daisy our Grand daughter. A delight to us both</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h2 style="background-color: white; font-family: ltc-bodoni-175; line-height: 1.6em; margin: 0px 0px 0.67em; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the Death of the Beloved by John O’Donohue</span></h2><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #515554; font-family: usual, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.58em; margin: 0px 0px 1.58em; max-width: 800px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Though we need to weep your loss,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">You dwell in that safe place in our hearts,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Where no storm or night or pain can reach you.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Your love was like the dawn</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Brightening over our lives</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Awakening beneath the dark</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">A further adventure of colour.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">The sound of your voice</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Found for us</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">A new music</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">That brightened everything.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Whatever you enfolded in your gaze</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Quickened in the joy of its being;</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">You placed smiles like flowers</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">On the altar of the heart.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Your mind always sparkled</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">With wonder at things.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Though your days here were brief,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Your spirit was live, awake, complete.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">We look towards each other no longer</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the old distance of our names;</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now you dwell inside the rhythm of breath,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">As close to us as we are to ourselves.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Though we cannot see you with outward eyes,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">We know our soul's gaze is upon your face,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Smiling back at us from within everything</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">To which we bring our best refinement.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Let us not look for you only in memory,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Where we would grow lonely without you.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">You would want us to find you in presence,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beside us when beauty brightens,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">When kindness glows</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">And music echoes eternal tones.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">When orchids brighten the earth,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Darkest winter has turned to spring;</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">May this dark grief flower with hope</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">In every heart that loves you.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">May you continue to inspire us:</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">To enter each day with a generous heart.</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">To serve the call of courage and love</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Until we see your beautiful face again</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">In that land where there is no more separation,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Where all tears will be wiped from our mind,</span><br style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;" /><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, "serif"; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">And where we will never lose you again. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLkBBxOnKjSdCNcyhy0Mv_TQAQk_sPdKicnvlFZlIz4d3K0xr1i9kk3JgtaKeH7I9jpMeqF5AJjEUtqfqidj6J3Q_5tEllTbtKVDVtOFqEOK24DLIsTUebr9iqi5z_cJ63ESTjKCDKbZR1ERSdxDZZdhjYnNhs9EH7i6nukxMO74VFHXEF1HtlCX4/s478/Fiona%20ski.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="427" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLkBBxOnKjSdCNcyhy0Mv_TQAQk_sPdKicnvlFZlIz4d3K0xr1i9kk3JgtaKeH7I9jpMeqF5AJjEUtqfqidj6J3Q_5tEllTbtKVDVtOFqEOK24DLIsTUebr9iqi5z_cJ63ESTjKCDKbZR1ERSdxDZZdhjYnNhs9EH7i6nukxMO74VFHXEF1HtlCX4/w572-h640/Fiona%20ski.jpg" width="572" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Fiona Gunn 28.02.1960 - 25.08.2022</b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-20908701856965463412022-04-22T07:59:00.000+01:002022-04-22T07:59:33.764+01:00Glencoe's Low Level Cragging<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Stunning Spring weather so I took a run up Glencoe to visit some of the roadside crags. "The Bendy" has many routes. I did routes at either end and one in the middle with Gary Latter back in the 1980's and Gary and Stork did some other ones. The Bendy is a great Spring and Summer morning venue and has a tremendous big swimming pool below it. Midge hell at night though. Sad to see the old Rannoch Club Doss debris after the fire. As a rescuer we were there a few times taking club members out who had broken legs on the wooden ladder climbing down into the gorge to get to the hut. Often on return from Clachaig.</div>
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Below this is the really good little "Dry Gorge Crag" an excellent evening crag which catches the sun and has easier less bold routes than the Bendy. Up the dry gorge is "The Squirrels Crack" and opposite a nice but short crack route that I did with Mark Tennant which about HVS 5a/b. Further up is the bold blank crag that Garry Latter did a few routes on. I think these routes are in the new outcrops guide and some are certainly in Garys selected climbs guide Scottish Rock Vol. 1 South. If you want to study the images closer just click on them and open up a bigger size.</div>
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I<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSyUuNxdROHxnM7EVJySh5dFCFXiccCVaACJOPxCV1zEeenkuqMQshuW2jfl5RCH6hqlFvd1BnZXGCtjLv8sk7-hY-0Cvzv_CQPr1gobqCVa8OwFEbaJz13VXVytWpm0mb3mtD3HhM2GM/s1600/Rannoch+Doss+Remains.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSyUuNxdROHxnM7EVJySh5dFCFXiccCVaACJOPxCV1zEeenkuqMQshuW2jfl5RCH6hqlFvd1BnZXGCtjLv8sk7-hY-0Cvzv_CQPr1gobqCVa8OwFEbaJz13VXVytWpm0mb3mtD3HhM2GM/s400/Rannoch+Doss+Remains.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All that remains of "The Rannoch Doss" a once well used and secretive hut below Allt na Reigh</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXmhSGC-w23qrauUQ0UoihVMistD1WCAXi_4vP7i3Bn7xzJBgzu2p110vQ88tQ-2fOl4_Dz0GPoUpnXAuBDwoNSY1umSam-aI4N4xoSOmREzoVjqXii-cdNUy1aA-U_rWWlvNxy1FI4U/s1600/The+Bendy+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXmhSGC-w23qrauUQ0UoihVMistD1WCAXi_4vP7i3Bn7xzJBgzu2p110vQ88tQ-2fOl4_Dz0GPoUpnXAuBDwoNSY1umSam-aI4N4xoSOmREzoVjqXii-cdNUy1aA-U_rWWlvNxy1FI4U/s400/The+Bendy+1.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Bang in the pic centre at the top of the wall is the final groove (with a peg runner) of "Simmering Psycho" E3 6a Davy Gunn lead and Chris Ducker (Fionas Brother) 1998</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVL2Ncx8JJlzRa5uoo9YKcSLYQWGlnPXomUdoz3ALFqMnTYrtPo7oxwdY4suSgT94AlF1sOybOvwqz29niMAyDScbGxbwZYyjm4fTrWX9Fkh1KUBj6KE1WVyuRVrJMmhdnxnBjWJxnow0/s1600/The+Bendy+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVL2Ncx8JJlzRa5uoo9YKcSLYQWGlnPXomUdoz3ALFqMnTYrtPo7oxwdY4suSgT94AlF1sOybOvwqz29niMAyDScbGxbwZYyjm4fTrWX9Fkh1KUBj6KE1WVyuRVrJMmhdnxnBjWJxnow0/s400/The+Bendy+2.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">The left side has a cracking E2 5b that I did with Mark Waugh as second. In the middle wall are the E4 6a's that need RP's and have exploding crimps! I did a FA of one with Gary and the others I think he did with Stork. There is a dry platform below so no need for wet feet. Quite a pool and roaring waterfall across from you.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1b5pQT1ir1AiXcdwo9QvAJJHXx5a0N7hOoo9i0CbFyGhqy0GNi_AUEEGCRu5lI6kvxid5m8PJ6TNgqnJTsZSaJ6ySyyiMhM3D8tuVkVqEOs7O69R1Al51SwJ0xmqy98fSfllpelWveA/s1600/The+Dry+Gorge+Crag.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1b5pQT1ir1AiXcdwo9QvAJJHXx5a0N7hOoo9i0CbFyGhqy0GNi_AUEEGCRu5lI6kvxid5m8PJ6TNgqnJTsZSaJ6ySyyiMhM3D8tuVkVqEOs7O69R1Al51SwJ0xmqy98fSfllpelWveA/s400/The+Dry+Gorge+Crag.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">The Dry Gorge Crag. A great little micro crag. Maybe 10m in height. Right to left. The grey wall on the right with a very thin crack is "Crimp" needing a couple of RP's is E2 6a and crimpy. Left again is the very well protected "Sin Nombre" E1 5b a bomber crack for cams and mid sized stoppers. Left again across the black streak is "Ascolatre" E1 5c again good pro but a bit thuggy. Then left is an alternative direct start to the same finish which is maybe 5b/c. FA's Davy Gunn with Chris Ducker and others.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AMN7pEFshboqraF9mtqAcPbqhEOTMqJABYIg6NzUS-GL10abjJF-BwZfWkcm9YMQTqIl-3mc1-LoSnRdAJdwoqAdFezsOM5gZo_A2GSf6lV9s3LfEKNCQakYfwQKy8H8QKzmvNAnUtM/s1600/Crack+Route.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AMN7pEFshboqraF9mtqAcPbqhEOTMqJABYIg6NzUS-GL10abjJF-BwZfWkcm9YMQTqIl-3mc1-LoSnRdAJdwoqAdFezsOM5gZo_A2GSf6lV9s3LfEKNCQakYfwQKy8H8QKzmvNAnUtM/s400/Crack+Route.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Slightly further up on the same side as the dry gorge crag is"Crack Route" HVS 5b FA Davy Gunn and Mark Tennant. A damp little number but well protected with cams and nuts.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumIBjIePuR4lrfbc6jmg-xQljtzyFxNa7N8cTp2ciaPP6GrCDCchwB3GbQ3ncHeWKnPojF5Kzjlnnv76MPj3L0wEqgCi7HFFo5gvMyzym40W-iA8hdq87wq-shp8sIUzk7l8-CFxLQug/s1600/Squirels+Crack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumIBjIePuR4lrfbc6jmg-xQljtzyFxNa7N8cTp2ciaPP6GrCDCchwB3GbQ3ncHeWKnPojF5Kzjlnnv76MPj3L0wEqgCi7HFFo5gvMyzym40W-iA8hdq87wq-shp8sIUzk7l8-CFxLQug/s400/Squirels+Crack.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Even further up on the left side is "The Squirrels Crack" by - you guessed it, the Edinburgh Squirrel climbing club. No give away at HVS 5a/b it used to have a peg runner at the overhang and is fairly well protected but no belay at the top so its a sit and squat job or leave a rope far back. You can get to this route from the top of the dry gorge by scrambling in from the high point.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-73cC1U09DJKdWhGr4_BpPpocZXOT-_4lZG1njSb2mD6AqB_SyHqDqc_gV_ZWkMwWRimUczPX1Lr1dvTXSdl6mlfFC-8OYHN81GIeRMJmplbSs4LvFrHwGkgJNy9anUO1nkaYjjwntnU/s1600/Garys+Crag.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-73cC1U09DJKdWhGr4_BpPpocZXOT-_4lZG1njSb2mD6AqB_SyHqDqc_gV_ZWkMwWRimUczPX1Lr1dvTXSdl6mlfFC-8OYHN81GIeRMJmplbSs4LvFrHwGkgJNy9anUO1nkaYjjwntnU/s400/Garys+Crag.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garys Crag has a few hard routes but no gear. Multiple bouldering matts might suffice as they are "highballs"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAIPXY9rrubnDIyuOqx8SAjsM9apUKLyOROObgtlQg0BPSYrZBzrwghFeERuOptl-7xS-UuiW7-jTO88qu-48zfvosubNHx3Y32wJg5E-RD9SKuu2N6_f4YVcLYix6w_k5Kg_sMOTDTA/s1600/Carlsberg+Pillar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAIPXY9rrubnDIyuOqx8SAjsM9apUKLyOROObgtlQg0BPSYrZBzrwghFeERuOptl-7xS-UuiW7-jTO88qu-48zfvosubNHx3Y32wJg5E-RD9SKuu2N6_f4YVcLYix6w_k5Kg_sMOTDTA/s400/Carlsberg+Pillar.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Looking up into the bowels of Beinn Fhada in the middle is a slot. The right side has a detached pillar with a route called "Triple C Special" HVS 5a. You can take it that it's pretty much ungradable much like KAK it's V-Diff neighbour lower down which in the old english would be XS. Both would be nice for those liking a JH Bell style such as Chimney Route - Severe Aonach Dubh "where the last 20 feet are on rock"!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcnw8gRpIqAKOuoxUgFHi91VrF5vFpVhLG2-V6p-0lq2zGFj_EWNmiQ41hJjGKYrkIXyCtT4tWIFPn6pMSnS88dBRN7jWWA78o0D5nhZcZP8faDt03BZS_ujLg-mWu3cbTCpiYxzoZI8/s1600/The+Road+Bridge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcnw8gRpIqAKOuoxUgFHi91VrF5vFpVhLG2-V6p-0lq2zGFj_EWNmiQ41hJjGKYrkIXyCtT4tWIFPn6pMSnS88dBRN7jWWA78o0D5nhZcZP8faDt03BZS_ujLg-mWu3cbTCpiYxzoZI8/s400/The+Road+Bridge.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Looking across from the top of "The Squirrles Crack" to Allt na Reigh home of Downie's Barn (on the right of the cottage) which is often mentioned in Alastair Borthwicks book "Always a Little Further". This later became Hamish MacInnes's workshop when he started making ice axes and stretchers so is a bit of Glencoe's history. Under the old road bridge (this is a new one) used to be another doss which in my day the donkey jacket clad "Black Frank" lived in. He was a dirtbag climber who lived rough and climbed hard in the 1970's and who's favourite ice tool was shortened wooden grivel axe with a bent pick he had shaped over a gas stove.</td></tr>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-81189248413979954172022-03-02T20:16:00.005+00:002023-07-16T15:09:43.167+01:00À la recherche du temps perdu - or getting an MOT?<p><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";">When to the sessions of sweet silent thought</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";">I summon up remembrance of things past,</span></p><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";">I sigh the lack of many a thing I sought,</span><div><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";">And with old woes new wail my dear time’s waste …</span><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro";"><i>Shakespeare Sonnet 30</i></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #252324; font-family: "Source Sans Pro"; font-size: 23px;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">Today has started as a stunning cold sunny March morning so I decided to walk back after dropping my car for its MOT. An enjoyable wander where I bumped into an old climbing and rescue colleague and we chatted about all things mountain. In conversation he said, by the way I must thank you again for saving our lives, me and my belayer 27 years ago. Not quite what I expected! Among the many boxes of memories some locked away, it took me back to the night in question and especially the guys who I was with. Great guys and sadly one, Millsy, no longer with us.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPb0U_CYp1TkljtAqZiM2aqfA22lsf9SFfhnivtvLH7e-eOLARZGXj8siXAmCu-c4mAvxSG3FikuIfnhu0aPEPBd4rzBnpfSH-KBBrNNvvrRnqqa6oc5HXiUokUolQ3-tFLPfQqiDZHQfa6RwfPeqotgOVYJSHjKQ1fFnPFgPTo6H0hEuZy7WtpDmA=s750" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="750" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPb0U_CYp1TkljtAqZiM2aqfA22lsf9SFfhnivtvLH7e-eOLARZGXj8siXAmCu-c4mAvxSG3FikuIfnhu0aPEPBd4rzBnpfSH-KBBrNNvvrRnqqa6oc5HXiUokUolQ3-tFLPfQqiDZHQfa6RwfPeqotgOVYJSHjKQ1fFnPFgPTo6H0hEuZy7WtpDmA=w400-h259" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Paul Mills "Millsy" and Rescue 137 Sea King</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">The night in question was late February, bitterly cold and moonlit to the point of making a head torch largely redundant. Al, a very experienced local climber had set off earlier that day with a local lad learning the winter ropes. Their route was North West Gully Stob Coire Nam Beith. NW Gully is a modest 450m grade II/III winding its narrow way up past "the Pyramid" and "Sphinx" and if taken direct can be a bit harder on steeper ice. The rock architecture is fantastic and although the route is 450m in the guides, its actually a lot longer than that to the summit and feels quite alpine in scale. That day it was bullet proof neve and in great condition. No mobile phones back then and no great shakes to be a little late back so Al's wife was not too concerned when he wasn't home by five o'clock, although like myself we often started early and expect to be back 4 o'clock-ish. However, when they had not come back by Eight she phoned Hamish. He wasn't at all concerned as Al was experienced and no point in calling the team out when they were probably just finishing late. She however felt something wasn't right so called him back again at Nine to get the same response. Meantime, as one of Al's friends she called me and asked what she should do, so I said I would get a couple of the lads next door and we would go have a look. I radioed the team and said three or four of us were going up for a nosey to put her mind at rest. My neighbours at that time were Peter (Chalky) White on one side, and Paul Mills on the other. Chalky was a forecaster with the SAIS, ex RAF MR, and a damn good mountaineer and rescuer. Paul "Millsy" was working as an independent MIC after leaving Glenmore Lodge and at that time was staying in a wee damp hovel of a cottage next to Tigh Dearg which has since been knocked down. Gary Latter was in it before him. Someone else came out as well but I cannot for the life of me remember who!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQrkpIXQc_633VMepzoNyK9bTzavR5wtM9S5uv9e1V_SrxSz8M5r3DI-aQ2yMhypuE3u6og6420jTyDkfIZCkMTkHE6b7HJ9o-BDDT4MvDYa5R-1Na4p4B0GjddDjeqf1TMDGiXMZmav7s2J1qEJQCHMylsAx2xyFZwAZb4vIH5SIF52_Kk6wkIQ2r=s604" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="604" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQrkpIXQc_633VMepzoNyK9bTzavR5wtM9S5uv9e1V_SrxSz8M5r3DI-aQ2yMhypuE3u6og6420jTyDkfIZCkMTkHE6b7HJ9o-BDDT4MvDYa5R-1Na4p4B0GjddDjeqf1TMDGiXMZmav7s2J1qEJQCHMylsAx2xyFZwAZb4vIH5SIF52_Kk6wkIQ2r=w400-h395" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pete "Chalky" White. <br />Wearing the safety gear of the day building Glencoe Mountains new chairlift 1990</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">We set off up into the corrie moving pretty fast as it was now about ten pm at night, and made our way around the right of the corrie to near the "Rognon" a raised feature on the West side up towards Hidden Gully, and started shouting. Faintly we heard shouts back and could just about make out that one was injured. This changed things a lot and we moved into rescue mode, called up the team and asked for a SAR helo. Millsy and I headed down towards "the Gate" and around as we were a bit lower and started soloing up NW Gully. By this time its getting on for eleven. We climbed up until we reached the right fork of NW and a variation finish, and Chalky was able to direct our lights to the shouts and a faint beam of light he was able to see. The right fork goes up the Sphynx to the Mummy where there is a hard pitch up to the shoulder. This is probably old fashioned grade IV, short and steep and a bit of a sting in the tail after a long climb. We got to just below their belay at about midnight when SAR 137 a sea king, the first we had seen as the Wessex had just been retired, arrived in the hover above us. It was horrendous from downdraught and blowing snow and bitter cold. We could tell Al's leg was very badly broken, Tibial plateau in pieces, and tibia open # out the knee after a fall and crampon catch. And the young belayer hypothermic and in a poor state, going down fast. The helo stayed in the hover above us for about 40 interminable minutes for a highly technical winching operation from difficult ground. John Greive could be seen in the door and was ready to be winched down if needed to help. The winchman did a fantastic snatch rescue courtesy of a knife and balls of steel. We never again doubted the Sea King after as previously we thought it wouldn't be up to the job like the Wessex. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">That left us in the gully smothered by spindrift and frozen with a back climb of 350m+. Bugger the abseiling as too cold. The gully we found had loaded up with slab to a depth of about 50cm or more from the hover and a funnel effect from the summit slopes so we had to be careful. Its a complicated area but we knew it as well as anyone so headed down, but wanted to avoid the steeper section of NW Gully above Isis Buttress. I knew a shortcut down a narrow corridor left of Isis. I remember going first into the gully facing forward both axes placed and a whump and roar as it went off below my feet, I had to climb over the crown wall with Millsy following. We didn't give it much thought as shit happens. Down into the corrie where we met Chalky and whoever, and in the wee small hours as the light was coming up we descended back down the path to the Elliot's. The Elliot's were all in bed, the team had gone home so it felt a bit of a let down, but nothing for it but home for a brief sleep and for me at that time back up a hill to Ski Patrol at Glencoe where Pete Weir was manager.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">Al's tough, and a long rehab after reconstruction at Raigmore followed. The young belayer survived but only just and would certainly have died that night if out any longer, as might Al. It's a dilemma often occurring in mountain rescue where experienced folk are late and no one wants to embarrass them by calling out a rescue team too hastily, and when is the right time to worry and take action? There are no right answers and I have put my own wife in that position when late back from a new route and she was calling John and he rightly said we would be fine as I was with Arthur and Andy and surely we couldn't all be dead! He was right. And of course John had good keen instincts and saved many lives by taking no chances and getting the team out early on many future occasions when leader. Hamish made a call that night, and we as our brothers keepers made one too. There is no right and wrong and such are the heavy burdens of a rescue team leaders role. The public are probably unaware just what a big responsibility that is in teams like Glencoe and Lochaber, and in my own time as both deputy leader and team leader I also had to make them on </span></span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">occasion.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><b>Post Script:</b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;">I felt I need to get this tale down. Surviving 10 hours hanging on a rope with a shattered leg with a relatively novice young climber freezing to death while also cajoling the novice to stay with it and encourage them to survive took a lot of courage from Al. Not all survival stories are on the telly, and courageous men walk among us, and even on days your car is in for its MOT you might meet one.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><i>PPS: Since publishing this I have discovered the 4th person was Al's son Malcolm who was a second generation rescuer and good climber who has recently retired from MR.</i></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgKf1rHzkbFTj3Qx6bbytlNftg-ambsEkqDmvTf4p0fuxqCrxvKMVSMulelrvmVnmkPHa6PbLv8YJcYZQr0x9yoW_wX38Q602-ZGBB4uhP3YcyqVLu0cOGmIl5YEHtPzJ1BrZQ1c2jrZ4TsSEN-j6Un8bdtxSir9SilU_VmkyNjdVwEkJfA8fWcPeI_=s1600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1082" data-original-width="1600" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgKf1rHzkbFTj3Qx6bbytlNftg-ambsEkqDmvTf4p0fuxqCrxvKMVSMulelrvmVnmkPHa6PbLv8YJcYZQr0x9yoW_wX38Q602-ZGBB4uhP3YcyqVLu0cOGmIl5YEHtPzJ1BrZQ1c2jrZ4TsSEN-j6Un8bdtxSir9SilU_VmkyNjdVwEkJfA8fWcPeI_=w400-h270" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1987 A sad outcome for two climbers killed by an Avalanche in NW Gully. <br />MR can be brutally pragmatic</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="color: #252324; font-family: Source Sans Pro;"><br /></span></span></div></div>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0Ballachulish PH49, UK56.6739269 -5.133719999999999441.420781415747996 -22.711844999999993 71.927072384252 12.444404999999993tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-71511246780435967252022-02-22T12:24:00.015+00:002023-02-07T22:42:36.408+00:00Reflections on Rescue Medical Care<div style="text-align: justify;"><i>All of us had an interest in first aid. Some more than others. I was an early school leaver with no qualifications other than cutting down trees and hard work. Then I was persuaded by Fiona that I was clever and bored at school so should do some adult learning and get some qualifications, so I decided I wanted to become a doctor. Along the way I collected qualifications in human physiology, pharmacology and eventually became one of the first UK paramedics. I never got to be a doctor but I did get invited into the Royal College of surgeons Faculty of Pre Hospital Care as a founder member and BASICS full member. Life is journey and I would never swap these early years in the woods and the people I met for any degree, or the adventures life brought later. Some of the best of which was my time with Joint Services Mountain Training and the folk I met and had fun with.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Reflections</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Way back in through the mist of
time as a young mountaineer and volunteer rescuer I remember after yet another harrowing
mountain rescue wondering what more I could do for the broken often quite young
folk we evacuated. Frequently they were in acute pain and circling the drain hole of
life, where survival was at best 50/50 and some sadly not making it home.
Mountain Rescuers whether medical/clinically minded or technical have to make
two immediate choices on scene. Is it better and safer for the patient (and
rescuer) to first rescue the patient from the scene before medical
interventions, or is it a critical situation for the patient where immediate
medical intervention must take place before rescue from the scene in order to
save the patient’s life.<o:p></o:p><br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyiUJrvOxr9nuYiMgu6-UUAISp5bFo42o8mA-njYBpSy5jqUg4AVFsIPJ0bxUagKhbAFNPwvkPUm-4xMrQuyr_24B7MgyPJT-NenCjXJht61BHMqN7n38iJwGH3wgs-FGx1ZzaCLAHR6o/s1600/Picture2.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="475" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyiUJrvOxr9nuYiMgu6-UUAISp5bFo42o8mA-njYBpSy5jqUg4AVFsIPJ0bxUagKhbAFNPwvkPUm-4xMrQuyr_24B7MgyPJT-NenCjXJht61BHMqN7n38iJwGH3wgs-FGx1ZzaCLAHR6o/s400/Picture2.png" width="263"></span></b></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">3 Avalanche Victims injured Twisting gully. Hamish overseeing and me doing the splinting. 1977</span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Let’s be clear, rescue from the
scene with good basic first aid is the default position and one which mountain
rescuers in Scotland are very adept. But back in the early 1980’s nothing much
had changed in the application of basic first aid in the UK for decades.
Ambulance service staff were a transport service with limited interventions and
the same was true for search and rescue. Pre Hospital care was in its infancy.
Changes in the UK were on the way, often reluctantly by the establishment, and those adopetd based on taking the better aspects of the American
DOT Emergency Medical Technician and Paramedic programmes for pre hospital care (think <b><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://www.vitalsource.com/products/nancy-caroline-s-emergency-care-in-the-streets-american-academy-of-v9781284114836?gclid=Cj0KCQiA4aXiBRCRARIsAMBZGz_BTHETH3uZrtcTMwb-h-2tZEWElgd2AJXg3V4OI5GsjgAIbrKvjrkaAg5SEALw_wcB">Emergency Care on the Streets</a> </span></b>by Nancy Caroline) and ATLS the <b><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://www.rcsed.ac.uk/events-courses/course-details-advanced-trauma-life-support-atls">American“Advanced Trauma Life Support”</a></span></b><span style="color: #002060;"> </span>course
for accident and emergency doctors coming across the pond.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Late 1980’s I was already as far
up the ladder as I could go for “First Aid” and was lucky to be invited onto
the first Scottish and only the second UK ATLS course. ATLS is a structured
approach to managing trauma. I had also done some college courses and gained
qualifications in human physiology and pharmacology to help with background
knowledge as a Paramedic and for my next stage which was Advanced Cardiac Care including
paediatric care and a course with BASICS the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://basics-scotland.org.uk/">British Association of Immediate Care Specialists</a></span></b>.
After some clinical placements at that time requiring 40 intubations and at least 40 emergency cannulations this allowed me to become a state
registered paramedic of which there were probably only half a dozen in the UK
by 1991. I was maybe first in Scotland? I know of a couple of SAR aircrew who also came on board but I am not sure if they were before me. Later came the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://www.hcpc-uk.org/check-the-register/">Health Professions Council</a></span></b><span style="color: #002060;"> </span>(HPC) which I successfully registered with as a
Paramedic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The public randomly
attribute being a Paramedic to all providers of emergency care, but in fact it
is a protected title and those that use it are trained beyond the level of most,
and it's not easy to get registered. Its illegal to call yourself a
Paramedic if not registered.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Taking this structured and
algorithmic ATLS approach to treating immediate life threats (AcBCDE) reducing
pain and reducing complications from hidden injuries unseen using a proactive approach to managing and immobilising a patient (a form of packaging)
then perhaps we also could reduce both mortality (deaths) and morbidity (long
term consequences) in the mountains as well? It was worth trying. The challenge was applying this in
a hostile mountain environment safely, with benefits to the patient, and no
delay in rescue or rescue safety compromise beyond that already acceptable to a
group of skilled mountaineers. This also
required other rescuers coming on board and acting much like the core group of
practitioners you will see at any major trauma in a UK A/E dept with folk
working simultaneously on various aspects of care. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition for mountain rescue, also aspects
of physical rescue from the scene such as belays, ropes etc need taken care, so it's an integrated approach.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The rescue team leader takes
overall control of the rescue including the evacuation, this leaves the
medical folks to treat the patient, often led in much the same manner as an A/E trauma but without the monitors and scanners. I
have to pay tribute to Hamish MacInnes for supporting this, and to John Greive
who took over after Hamish retired and at a time when, and for almost a decade after, there was a big increase in rescues overall and in particular victims with life
threatening trauma. Patient centred care with John leading from the front and
co ordinating some very difficult rescues leaving me to treat the patients
worked well. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">While this article is about the medical aspects it should never be
forgotten that mountain rescue is a team business and strong leadership
medically and of the rescue in general gets things done safely and timely. There
were times when objective dangers nearly changed the outcome, such as <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;">avalanches</span></span>
but these are best talked about over a dram not an article. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I like to think this team approach might just
have made the difference for a few poor souls.<o:p></o:p><br>
<br></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEui8i9nDZqKSPiP1BW3tE6sf6TG1sNcpgJ0ZccM1NN7exsZdVEI8RZcbzRnjtAGeGtxSYXTtcI3cLuW_ewXA1tJvkYGx1DGEoX-RAA83CpamFyPUeKHjPWppdRtzE6zqlaAKI_T9duw/s1600/Central+Buttress.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEui8i9nDZqKSPiP1BW3tE6sf6TG1sNcpgJ0ZccM1NN7exsZdVEI8RZcbzRnjtAGeGtxSYXTtcI3cLuW_ewXA1tJvkYGx1DGEoX-RAA83CpamFyPUeKHjPWppdRtzE6zqlaAKI_T9duw/s400/Central+Buttress.JPG" width="300"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me patching up on Central Buttress with Andy Nelson who is now GMRT Leader asking is it Henna or Blood</span><br><br></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Many of the team's first aiders
became BASP EMT’s and were very adept at managing a patient well with my
advanced skills not always required or appropriate. One skill I had which
I used more frequently than any other was to give intravenous pain relief with
strong opiates or similar medications. Sticking a needle or “Cannulation” into
a cold frightened and distressed patient was a skill I was strangely very good
at and gladly so for many folks who went from high pain scores to comfortable
while enduring long tortuous evacuations over rough ground or down long
climbing routes such as North Buttress hanging beneath my legs for 500 feet in
bad weather when no helicopter could fly.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
As a paramedic I had a range of
resuscitation equipment and analgesia to bring to the patients. While I could
and did intubate, these poor souls were often too far gone, but close attention
to maintaining the patient’s airway and delivering oxygen were crucial.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had the first ever defibrillator in MR
delivered in 1990 from Marquette via RL Dolby. Some ridicule from many in MR
circles ensued with comments of “all you will give them is a curly
hairdo” from the legendary Mick Tigh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, within a year the
defib was in action several times and on one occasion the Laerdal
FR 1 delivered 27 shocks to a patient before her heart re started.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6J293xR7creVpEVbjYhJbZhT5ypyo4CfX_XD6gu1IRGyb2zMx9cyFuOm9IYRQWEWEYfb2gntN-tmo1CEUjMOQ2MB_pwRL4S89uYQ6chBGW-R-cNPQp81NWWPoZ7-HuPrF9ylr6cqDDHQ/s1600/Picture1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="606" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6J293xR7creVpEVbjYhJbZhT5ypyo4CfX_XD6gu1IRGyb2zMx9cyFuOm9IYRQWEWEYfb2gntN-tmo1CEUjMOQ2MB_pwRL4S89uYQ6chBGW-R-cNPQp81NWWPoZ7-HuPrF9ylr6cqDDHQ/s400/Picture1.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rod MacIntosh now course director BASP EMT on his EMT course 1999 doing treatment on steep ground. After being delivered by a sea king I managed to get for the scenarios</span></i><br><br></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Around 1991 Tony Cardwell and I,
through BASP <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="http://www.basp.org.uk/">British Association of Ski Patrollers</a></span></b> started the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="http://www.basp.org.uk/basp_course/EMT/">BASP Emergency Medical Technician Course</a></span></b>. For some 14 years we took turns
as course directors. We had the course endorsed by the Royal College of
Surgeons (Ed) to give it a bit of clout and for many years pre “Cas Care” it
was the go to course for advanced medical care for mountain rescuers and ski
patrol. It still runs to this day which Tony and I are very chuffed about.
These EMT’s were/are the backbone of medical provision in Scottish MR and none
of my advanced training could mean anything without these fellow team players.
Often my role was medical team leader keeping a close eye and only stepping in
if I had some intervention they could not give such as (rarely) a chest
decompression, or when things were going a bit South (a very rare requirement)
and my having slightly more experience and diagnostic skills might change the
treatment. I take my hat off to them as a very skilled bunch capable of making
a difference if I was there or not. Apart from the obvious medical skills one obvious advantage I often had was being very fit and a strong climber so could always get to the patient needing care be it Clachaig Gully or 5 pitches up Swastika or <b><a href="https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2017/03/top-to-bottom-on-central-grooves.html">Central Grooves</a></b> the tale of which I have also hyperlinked.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The other aspect of taking
advanced medical techniques to the mountains is medical equipment that’s up to
the job. The kit for immobilising fractures had not changed much for decades. Some teams still had Thomas splints but with pre hospital care there was a rethink and re design of some kit. Quite a lot of pre hospital
medicine was influenced by dated military practise and some of the
equipment. For example, MAST or “Military Anti Shock Trousers” squeezed blood into the
patients core like a G suit but then they bled out more (letting the tap run with the plug
out) or fluids used to replace lost blood volume increased blood pressure but
were not the only true colloid which is blood carrying oxygen, and so morbidity
was increased as they bled out. The pre hospital treatment of shock we took and applied was to plug all the
holes you can see by looking at the patients back, front, left and right, maybe apply a tourniquet or coagulation dressing, and a helicopter as fast as possible
to a surgeon at the local hospital constantly being updated directly or via the
Police so that their A/E and surgical team were ready.<br>
<br>
Geoff Lachlan, Dave
Sedgwick, Brian Tregaskis and Belford staff were great support on and off
the hill and Dr David Syme then medical doctor to the mountain rescue committee was tremendous support in supporting trials of new kit to me with a view to making them standard MR issues if worthy. Also no article would be complete without acknowledging the tremendous support from within BASP from Dr Ian MacLaren consultant in A/E Monklands and the late Dr John Scott London HEMS both who encouraged and trained me over the years. In particular "the doc" Ian Maclaren who was huge support and always there at the end of the phone for a debrief after a difficult resuscitation. Later players coming into the mountain pre hospital trauma side from the clinical/medical were such as Ian Macconnel then resuscitation officer at Wishaw General who crossed to the light after helping out on EMT courses and being rescued (it's ok Ian so was I!). Ian later joined GMRT and took over as medical officer from me when I left. My last ALS course was by invite from him down to Crosshouse hospital to see how I compared to the hospital pro's. I think I did ok as I passed, despite a hangover. It's well worth asking him to describe running a defib refresher for the teams EMT's at the old Glencoe Police station while a local worthy was locked up in the cells. The noise from the Laerdal Heartstart 2000 put the offender of his head, it's a very good tale.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
One vital bit of kit I was pleased
to introduce first to mountain rescue was the American <b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycKEHPZGOLQ">“Hartwell" Vacuum Mattress</a></b>. Spinal injuries are not uncommon in fallen mountaineers. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before the vacuum matt we had no way of
immobilising these life changing injuries. We were also the first to routinely
apply extrication collars which when used appropriately are life and limb
savers. I am absolutely sure GMRT saved many people from devastating life
changing injury by the careful handling and immobilisation of their spinal or
neck injury. I also had LOTS or “Level One Trauma Splints” sent across from the
USA and some of these excellent splints are still in use. Other notable imports
were the Colorado <b><a href="https://www.wiggys.com/sleeping-bags/victims-casualty-hypothermia-bag/">“Wiggies”</a></b> casualty bags to keep the patient a bit warmer and
the first <b><a href="https://windward.hawaii.edu/facstaff/miliefsky-m/zool%20142l/aboutpulseoximetry.pdf">Pulse Oximeters </a></b>to monitor SpO2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzKoXJWXgCpVt34we7D8IVP0Wt0uf_AGMIJF-QOwwPvg7Xu9PLK1L4qiIO9w8yDjExEBdPpI35QwuFFyoZtnrZhBga5jyLrQ6zMjI3CL2CKhNJOo_Nc89Q0lruZodgfeo9yPXTGtyQfVE/s1600/Stretcher+packaging+1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="338" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzKoXJWXgCpVt34we7D8IVP0Wt0uf_AGMIJF-QOwwPvg7Xu9PLK1L4qiIO9w8yDjExEBdPpI35QwuFFyoZtnrZhBga5jyLrQ6zMjI3CL2CKhNJOo_Nc89Q0lruZodgfeo9yPXTGtyQfVE/s400/Stretcher+packaging+1.jpg" width="247"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Trussed up like a Turkey and going no where. Packaged!</span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhloXoNsiM2kjXY0Re2VgZFk_wv99DuHv1XyCWXrwnC5NGU3op0IyzLTNlt4fGPvj4vy9lA1DG5XozDpkJwTmKhf8cX1Jqykrf6kDzU2uzvYoU0UzEqHFqly67K6YMzAYlH90wOBJKeJbg/s1600/Picture2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="511" data-original-width="681" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhloXoNsiM2kjXY0Re2VgZFk_wv99DuHv1XyCWXrwnC5NGU3op0IyzLTNlt4fGPvj4vy9lA1DG5XozDpkJwTmKhf8cX1Jqykrf6kDzU2uzvYoU0UzEqHFqly67K6YMzAYlH90wOBJKeJbg/s400/Picture2.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">LOTS splints in action</span><br><br></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
SpO2 is not so reliable in mountain injuries due to cold and the oxygen
dissociation curve moving left, but it looks also gives a pulsatile flow rate (HR
equivalent) and a wave form to monitor how strongly the blood is flowing and
the heart is beating. This also proved useful when reducing fractures into
alignment to ensure blood flow. A useful tool in the context of other checks. I am very pleased that maybe my
skills and the equipment brought to bare made a difference. What I hope you
take out of this is that at the time of my training, pre hospital care was in
its infancy and up a mountain advanced medical care thought impossible. Speaking purely about the rescue team I was
involved with I can with some pride say they bought into the concept whole heartily
and along with the teams leaders and enthusiastic first aiders/EMT’s we
achieved a quality of medical care and patient centred decisions which was
ahead of its time. Chapeau to all those folks, some of whom are still rescuing
the day and night shift.<br>
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyhv71RStG7aIT3COo7_sxGZ256Y9gpFmu4Kr0pZH2RVQIr7hxyfzaWjV4TPcaiT-SOWR_FH5bPggw2hlqR7X4aW-1IhC5BVlrYeXSMEZe6eMXJhezrpbFiekdhszpWPVNUYizE9dHxYg/s1600/Picture1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyhv71RStG7aIT3COo7_sxGZ256Y9gpFmu4Kr0pZH2RVQIr7hxyfzaWjV4TPcaiT-SOWR_FH5bPggw2hlqR7X4aW-1IhC5BVlrYeXSMEZe6eMXJhezrpbFiekdhszpWPVNUYizE9dHxYg/s400/Picture1.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Morphine and Cyclizine on board then package. Hartwell Vacuum Matt in use below Ossians cave</span><br></b> </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
One of my first mountain rescues
was an avalanche when about 16 so in 1972 when I was a team apprentice and mad on
climbing. I wasn’t allowed to be full member until I was 18 and could be
insured. The climbing I did as a youth gave my parents many sleepless nights
not least of when rescued hanging at the end of a rope November 1972 on the
North Face of Aonach Dubh with Euan Grant and two others, all stuck when the
rope ran out in an icy gully. It was kind of fitting that my last Glencoe
mountain rescue was also an avalanche where 3 folks had lost their lives and I
probed and found the last victim. As a
medic and climber I was oblivious to background issues and driven by sticking
to the guidelines that have proven to save lives such as <b><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://www.resuscitationjournal.com/article/S0300-9572(17)30020-5/pdf">ICAR’s for avalanche victims</a></span></b>.
When seeing these ignored by another agency, I would speak my mind. This often
brought me into conflict with them and sometimes other rescuers. In the heat of battle/rescue things happen, and its
important to talk about them and learn for the next time. Fiona
was struggling to continue to support me. 30 years married 3 kids and wondering if her husband would come back
and if she was to be a single mother takes its toll. Families need 100%
confidence that their partners rescue colleagues are their “brothers keeper” and she began to doubt this. I knew I could look after myself up a mountain having soloed some big routes and survived some epics and lost friends, but it was just plain not fair on the family if they were scared of loosing their dad. <o:p></o:p>I still
miss it though, that sense of tribe and sense of purpose. Ski rescue certainly has it moments and digging an avalanche victim out still alive was a bonus rarely enjoyed in mountain rescue.</div>
<br>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVpjXeQKtykmnPK8RyH0ym6FeZEy0XHABx0cBS0_04MALeHmOzLWHmjsd5TavFlS3SKXW1CUpSMbcYaKoz40XCUW_aFEyhTklbCsf3Pf9uW016ub36YcxjCLZI2Zf7-98St8Ia3pcLh5E/s1600/LGB+Corrie+Jan+2009.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1366" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVpjXeQKtykmnPK8RyH0ym6FeZEy0XHABx0cBS0_04MALeHmOzLWHmjsd5TavFlS3SKXW1CUpSMbcYaKoz40XCUW_aFEyhTklbCsf3Pf9uW016ub36YcxjCLZI2Zf7-98St8Ia3pcLh5E/s400/LGB+Corrie+Jan+2009.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">A probe find by the author. Yet another sad tale of mountaineers not <a href="http://www.recco.com/howto_NL/">"being searchable"</a></span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The unsung heroes of MR are those
back home. Seldom acknowledged, they get no fancy gear allowance, free dinners
or the kudos of membership of an exclusive tribe. And it is exclusive. Don’t
imagine it's easy getting out of a warm bed on a bad night to wander over the
Aonach Eagach looking for someone. Rescue team members need exceptionally good
hill and mountain skills and not everyone has them, or is a good fit to an often
very close knit group. I was fortunate
that my rescue colleagues were often my climbing partners and so working
together on a rescue was easy. I would say it’s still mostly the same and I see
a very dynamic and young rescue team in action now and doing a great job. It’s good to know there are folk willing to bust a gut to go out in
all weathers and make a difference. Also these folks now have access to <b><a href="http://www.marchonstress.com/page/p/trim">TRIM</a> </b>something not available to my generation. Stress did take its toll at times. <b><a href="https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2016/11/avalanches-ptsd-and-talking.html">PTSD and Talking</a></b><br>
<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVlLo_t44lpE-CEwcjFvEg6D_p4EGg2a17vSYymEFa4dTLGPqx3m9hpeUdQBTg4HH5sY-fy_3guLBVguAYprfaBvZDqg4p7XSYtl8fKpSCXvnXOZS7ewzlvkN78sfUItPZLtAGKx7rn0/s1600/DSCN0035.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVlLo_t44lpE-CEwcjFvEg6D_p4EGg2a17vSYymEFa4dTLGPqx3m9hpeUdQBTg4HH5sY-fy_3guLBVguAYprfaBvZDqg4p7XSYtl8fKpSCXvnXOZS7ewzlvkN78sfUItPZLtAGKx7rn0/s400/DSCN0035.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Day shift work, no head torch required</span></i><br><br></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
These days I still rescue from
the mountains on day shift with <span style="color: #002060;">Glencoe Ski Patrol</span>. That as mentioned also has had it’s moments,
but that’s another story. I have let my Paramedic registration lapse as at 62 I
don’t feel my clinical skills are sharp enough and the yearly CPD is a toil. I
do complete the ski patrol training requirements and annual refreshers so not
all my skills are lost, and new ones are found as things change. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the last 10 years I have run avalanche
rescue courses and become a trainer for <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="http://www.recco.com/the-recco-system">Recco</a></span></b>. I am also a pro member of the <a href="https://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/"><b>American Avalanche Association</b> </a>and an <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #002060;"><a href="https://www.ortovox.com/uk/">Ortovox</a></span></b>
avalanche safety partner. I train MR teams in Recco and advise on other aspects
of avalanche equipment and rescue. Oddly to just about every other team than
the one I was in for 38 years! Joking aside, they have a plethora of
knowledgeable folk of their own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Climbing is still a big part of my life and I still bike and ski.
Goals for 2022 is to still send onsight a 7a sport route in better style. I had an epic on
the Tunnel Wall route “Uncertain Emotions” but still doing ok sending the odd 6c/7a
and V6 so life in the old dog yet.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8nEmgOecmyAEjjMx9advmVnXrnDCzPVaNzEJ_6ECE8H33-vks_a4qE2KVa92UjXXGO5ehAJGnI8RFE3Gw2yUMjlG00oGvSFY6oi_8QFcGX1HMF9wTZ9OQ0B1GB74x5a6BX4YZ0UI-So/s1600/Me+5.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1065" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8nEmgOecmyAEjjMx9advmVnXrnDCzPVaNzEJ_6ECE8H33-vks_a4qE2KVa92UjXXGO5ehAJGnI8RFE3Gw2yUMjlG00oGvSFY6oi_8QFcGX1HMF9wTZ9OQ0B1GB74x5a6BX4YZ0UI-So/s400/Me+5.JPG" width="265"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me contemplating getting my leg over the "Snotter" 6b+ last year</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Thanks to all my colleagues past
and present and most especially my family. And safe rescuing to all those on the 24 hour shift that is mountain rescue and of course the hard working ski patrol pro's on hard dayshifts </span><br>
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Here's a selection of pictures from a collection of many. All survived!</b></div></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjom7JkorpPwzqojwhBh6KrnwNj_78aWM3RX-NEWjoCcw_KrT0QJiGsZYfmHScZuyLI8WNXZ7w7VIEFV4kOTW1lCbOkD6tS7-q22TH9IW2ZTL1_xa41mWPF0OR8LMCSwbVklyD09IMH0zM/s1600/Picture3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><b><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjom7JkorpPwzqojwhBh6KrnwNj_78aWM3RX-NEWjoCcw_KrT0QJiGsZYfmHScZuyLI8WNXZ7w7VIEFV4kOTW1lCbOkD6tS7-q22TH9IW2ZTL1_xa41mWPF0OR8LMCSwbVklyD09IMH0zM/s400/Picture3.jpg" width="400"></b></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Sean, Malcolm, Ian, Frazer and Paul waiting on the yellow taxi. Rock climber both lower legs #</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvj_MvQoWFj5wQRbB4im07WRjZPAuc5Fq0C5qTtzVj69paRHj9k9Org4P2CHX6YyXjS25mj9ot3vhEMw2a7DHlk1deZ5gg1EQuB4sdpJVC1P9FyCMirHHY7IVTA2TxaGTVA96hjho4CY/s1600/Picture4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><b><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="395" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvj_MvQoWFj5wQRbB4im07WRjZPAuc5Fq0C5qTtzVj69paRHj9k9Org4P2CHX6YyXjS25mj9ot3vhEMw2a7DHlk1deZ5gg1EQuB4sdpJVC1P9FyCMirHHY7IVTA2TxaGTVA96hjho4CY/s400/Picture4.jpg" width="292"></b></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Pneumothorax see the air around the eyes, surgical emphysema and frostbite</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhljsiD1BERkyegX8uJH3MuiZjtjw-W8L7PuDLoe0oSPFthzJ1VKbHRCGupJ0ATymRYaCozNlB-cY1cBQL9niamo-VFdnfV_5bGkZy_uZMnT8GfWfy9KDLrltA9EEnVFJuLiMDgXTsIzUA/s1600/Picture5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="741" data-original-width="1139" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhljsiD1BERkyegX8uJH3MuiZjtjw-W8L7PuDLoe0oSPFthzJ1VKbHRCGupJ0ATymRYaCozNlB-cY1cBQL9niamo-VFdnfV_5bGkZy_uZMnT8GfWfy9KDLrltA9EEnVFJuLiMDgXTsIzUA/s400/Picture5.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i><b>North Buttress in winter. Direct spinal injury and lowered by Andy Nelson on ropes for 500ft between my legs this wasn't comfortable for the patient or me! Rescue from the scene due to bad weather.</b><br></i><br></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dR0j3TmmhlFuDHNv8ubiCuKi6LVjusANc6gMnQEcnQ3yJm2Zp0gVWD12DujTnR_OolipMJziIXttHMFmt_szYyCSmBJnU_dTpT2NYpbB028T3kdcK1h-qiCqJ5hS1m9-WZz_qs6w8wA/s1600/Picture6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="739" data-original-width="1130" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dR0j3TmmhlFuDHNv8ubiCuKi6LVjusANc6gMnQEcnQ3yJm2Zp0gVWD12DujTnR_OolipMJziIXttHMFmt_szYyCSmBJnU_dTpT2NYpbB028T3kdcK1h-qiCqJ5hS1m9-WZz_qs6w8wA/s400/Picture6.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>As above with bony injury obvious. Good recovery though</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_HdqGQF2nb7CAqUO300v6hE_XaE8f4swzH3i6VbCmBET0ia35v9rWfR1O9huNvYDargEn3qruYnNDg5o8kyOTESLr1f9JOXbUiKWtw0_CphzrJpO2vMgbtift39Hrtwx0Kv2Pieou18/s1600/Picture7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="742" data-original-width="990" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_HdqGQF2nb7CAqUO300v6hE_XaE8f4swzH3i6VbCmBET0ia35v9rWfR1O9huNvYDargEn3qruYnNDg5o8kyOTESLr1f9JOXbUiKWtw0_CphzrJpO2vMgbtift39Hrtwx0Kv2Pieou18/s400/Picture7.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Keep your ice axe in your hand while self arresting</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BCo3IV3GKlEfS9cNi6XEBA-KvToaw5M6EqkS9F6IwsV8Ih_nskWS7yl4lM900BgUKUYvucdCllvewGxvF7DtrYnm44Uq2p83aXtXiZvIGn4I-tYMVx3-nIaZbqLod0t_UwsjYHTxU80/s1600/Picture8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BCo3IV3GKlEfS9cNi6XEBA-KvToaw5M6EqkS9F6IwsV8Ih_nskWS7yl4lM900BgUKUYvucdCllvewGxvF7DtrYnm44Uq2p83aXtXiZvIGn4I-tYMVx3-nIaZbqLod0t_UwsjYHTxU80/s400/Picture8.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Warthogs go into the ice not your palm</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVPqYaC68cY-WUmI5NCFq9S6RAFt_t6C2R4GgYrw_carDnk1XJ-4oCvno55uUi6cmKFt4R7RQLFA0hEem_139VjJY_0t0ankqokm4luJLg6iT5kUqW1KGOY2pUmJqR_mOldsEyhdrtUM/s1600/Picture1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="920" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVPqYaC68cY-WUmI5NCFq9S6RAFt_t6C2R4GgYrw_carDnk1XJ-4oCvno55uUi6cmKFt4R7RQLFA0hEem_139VjJY_0t0ankqokm4luJLg6iT5kUqW1KGOY2pUmJqR_mOldsEyhdrtUM/s400/Picture1.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Wearing a ring rock climbing<br></i></b><br></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCl5i2A0fbPcwXoOVde5nFoshpOzJPE_ua_kUxHq-TFW6i1zHoxK4KqE2eZzfEc6xU0yVv6jUAz-mOI3T1fB-egHXXpMTmadD4s12k8qdJM5VEoPDmk2RbCJQhh2OFdQDKMVkWvuVwBSs/s1600/Picture2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="588" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCl5i2A0fbPcwXoOVde5nFoshpOzJPE_ua_kUxHq-TFW6i1zHoxK4KqE2eZzfEc6xU0yVv6jUAz-mOI3T1fB-egHXXpMTmadD4s12k8qdJM5VEoPDmk2RbCJQhh2OFdQDKMVkWvuVwBSs/s400/Picture2.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Pattern Bruising - what lies beneath?</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk5GiPGRTceBu9HgHunZQ2EKOwJCR2LY9SvOAGH8-BwS-qhEMcaV9wEtGEz4ADpYpUXVV8wQd68_5JmGAri75t_uzVQhBZe1okAbOVwE6WjDn_goEyg0pSj-AM10Cbh8SECfz6kwXAXM/s1600/WaffleArseBurn.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="494" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk5GiPGRTceBu9HgHunZQ2EKOwJCR2LY9SvOAGH8-BwS-qhEMcaV9wEtGEz4ADpYpUXVV8wQd68_5JmGAri75t_uzVQhBZe1okAbOVwE6WjDn_goEyg0pSj-AM10Cbh8SECfz6kwXAXM/s400/WaffleArseBurn.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The stranger side of MR</i></b></div>
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<br>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-14774817695253769162022-01-26T11:00:00.000+00:002022-01-26T11:34:38.067+00:00Avalanches, PTSD and Talking<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span><b>First Published winter 2014</b> </span></span><br /><span><b><br /></b></span>
<span><i>Forgive me if the dates are out for the events below. 36 years of this shit melds one event into another a bit, and I didn't keep a diary. However my memory is imprinted with the thoughts and things that happened, and what's below is a snippet of bad things and perhaps the only ones that could be written about, as others are too messy. I hope it helps those who are struggling and makes them realise they are going to be ok as they are normal. Take care, your families need you whole.</i></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><br /></i></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlfSPkWs83zqgg-LxnIiVHGtNxbIod0n7W5zU9AFGl10Vi7Wx_YosPXQ5XSChtOjNLmlvwHpEhGC1GDzLgnqlf-2NpDPppU6Ll1bFy9V0hT-stKJwcaw0a4KvJLZhdYvr0WhKh0rVzMk/s1600/Picture2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlfSPkWs83zqgg-LxnIiVHGtNxbIod0n7W5zU9AFGl10Vi7Wx_YosPXQ5XSChtOjNLmlvwHpEhGC1GDzLgnqlf-2NpDPppU6Ll1bFy9V0hT-stKJwcaw0a4KvJLZhdYvr0WhKh0rVzMk/s1600/Picture2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Incidence of PTSD after being avalanched</span></i></td></tr>
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I have been reading a book on trauma. Not physical trauma but the trauma of stress and anxiety from a normal person being exposed to an abnormal event and having major psychological issues often years later. Dealing with disasters such as Lockerbie the RAF has an excellent and pro active approach, and the struggle to come to that point after generations had refused to acknowledge this form of trauma is at the heart of the book. The common term these days is PTSD.</div>
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Reading the book evokes many memories for me, and in particular some not very good ones. While I no way would say that I saw or dealt with anything like a big air crash, I had my moments finding friends dead, watching friends get killed at work and removing pieces of what used to be someone from debris of one type or another, including helicopters. These moments were overcome with the support of friends, family and mainly my stoical and loving wife and immediate family. We the rescuers get some acknowledgement, but I don't know how the partners our immediate confidantes put up with it as there is nothing there for them but hassle. Family are the real heroines and hero's of medicine and rescue.</div>
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In the 1990's the UK medical profession was still burying its head in the sand about PTSD and certainly in civilian MR to have acknowledged a problem was not the done thing. At that time I was very much the main medical provider in our local MRT and on my first year as deputy leader. This had been the worst period I could ever recall for a series of fatal accidents and very serious injuries. I had become a full BASICS member and done their pre hospital courses, and with doctors advanced trauma/medical courses, and had already done the first pilot Scottish ATLS course under Ian Anderson at the Victoria Infirmary. With A/E electives, and done ambulance service placements on the first Paramedic response units in Dundee and Motherwell via the Scottish Ambulance Service. I already had 20+ years of attending accidents under my belt. But the winter of 93 onwards were a succession of putting into practise many new skills for the first time, including the first use by an MRT of a defib. Pain was treated by IV opiates, and that winter I decompressed my first tension pneumothorax and also got a Royal Marine resuscitated who went on to live a meaningful life. His name was Simon. You remember the names of the success's. It's easy, as there aren't very many!<br />
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Winter 93/94 was a difficult year coming through with a new start Hamish having retired and new leadership, but the stress's of that process had taken a tole and there was a cost to good folk who didn't deserve to be hurt. That summer was as busy as the winter, and as autumn came early at the end of September the mountains already had heavy snow. October we were at a helicopter crash involving aircrew from PGM, folk that we all new well having worked with them on films for Glencoe Productions. It had a rotor strike on the hill above Ballachulish. I will not forget finding a pair of legs sticking out of the peat in torchlight. When the snow came in storm depth two folk were buried in an avalanche and dead in Summit Gully. Two weeks later after four day search we find a young man dead in an icy gully after a bizarre series of events involving a "medium". She turned out to be correct on the location! Then the traditional Xmas and New year "come up and get me" flashing lights, followed by severe winter blizzards leading to extended road closures. At this time I was working as the solo ski rescuer/patroller at Glencoe Mountain on weekdays, so was often rescuing skiers by day and climbers by night and night were often broken as we had Esther my daughter newly born.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6liVD-Zulih2ypsOeu_P5emt-Jli4A0RuSL48BGLhL3d6GRjC-YT7hg2qL3IBsxJsPpsOyZNCZVeZ4dP53UJwaTAavs9ZbDHCllgNMUSn6A0UPD7ApZVgWTWz2jAw2OptEAyqBbc2zD4/s1600/Picture5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6liVD-Zulih2ypsOeu_P5emt-Jli4A0RuSL48BGLhL3d6GRjC-YT7hg2qL3IBsxJsPpsOyZNCZVeZ4dP53UJwaTAavs9ZbDHCllgNMUSn6A0UPD7ApZVgWTWz2jAw2OptEAyqBbc2zD4/s1600/Picture5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Doing this stuff and going home to your family as if nothing has happened is not "normal"</i></span></b></td></tr>
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John Greive was the leader of the team from 1993. A very good mountaineer with an intimate knowledge of Glencoe, John had strong instincts and quickly these gut instincts would ring alarm bells if things don't feel right. A lot of lives have been saved because he has run with these. John and I made an unlikely pair as the new leadership. I can honestly say that he was an exemplary leader. Often last off the hill or last onto the SAR helo to get off the mountain until sure his troops were safe, and willing to fight any "jobs worth" who interfered with patient care or caused delay in someone getting help. Victims sometimes need that kind of advocacy in mountain rescue. Cut through the bullshit and bureaucracy and get them help, then deal with any fall out later.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eV5Xtk6LN5btEBh0KQxefVUHNSlM4O7AdmhHgWGOz_tdq2h3Tbgjho9gX2vhzjxrxsez2_aqGILLuD-Yjn4ovtyLygdUR8ZsOablf5_MDr_7lSC4PwzL-0p1wniryBoJ0QGdZcZ9aRg/s1600/BEM+ResQ+2002+ish.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eV5Xtk6LN5btEBh0KQxefVUHNSlM4O7AdmhHgWGOz_tdq2h3Tbgjho9gX2vhzjxrxsez2_aqGILLuD-Yjn4ovtyLygdUR8ZsOablf5_MDr_7lSC4PwzL-0p1wniryBoJ0QGdZcZ9aRg/s1600/BEM+ResQ+2002+ish.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>GMRT in action at an avalanche BEM. John Greive Team Leader</i></span></b></td></tr>
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So, when in February 1994 John is on the radio saying a group (who were not climbers) had walked up into the entrance of the access corrie to the Buachaille and not returned, the wife of the missing walkers is at the Kingshouse and things don't feel right to him - then believe me you stop eating your tea and take notice. A father, son and friend had gone for a look up into the Corrie and not returned. The preceding days the head wall had been loading, but climbers had come down it and as its a couple of thousand feet to the entrance then we thought and hoped the missing folks were just stuck in the dark.<br />
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A group of us including Steve Kennedy, Pete Harrop and Malcolm Thomson were in the lead with Hughie, Wull and Kenny Lindsay and others team members strung out behind. We went into the entrance gully and were in among broken wind slab avalanche debris, we then worked our way up to the little re-entrant that comes down from the "Dwindle Wall" side. I was all for getting stuck in and starting a spot probe search. Steve stopped and said he wasn't happy and I remember saying "come on lads lets just get stuck in" when Steve said "listen" and then shouted "avalanche!" I hadn't heard or seen anything, but folk were scrabbling up the rocks out of the gully and I followed suite although at first it seemed surreal, the rumble and huge blocks from a monster of a big wet slide flowing past and up the sides like the tide lapping our feet as we scrambled up soon made it seem pretty damn real. Steve's instincts saved the lives off about seven Glencoe MRT that night. We jogged off the hill high on adrenaline and retired to Clachaig for a dram. We were shaken badly by how close a call it had been. A lot of wives and kids nearly lost their partners and dads and as deputy leader I should have been less complacent. It was that close to tragedy its hard to believe we got away with it and one of those things we thought best kept quiet as it was so nearly a further big tragedy to what now apparently lay beneath the snow. Next day we were up the hill again, and the slab debris had about 40ft of hard wet frozen snow debris on top. Hard to probe, hard to dig. The RAF MRT came and helped and put in a huge amount of work digging and trenching. Due to being fairly near the road the TV crews could access the scene so we were under their watchful eye. Four days of hard work and we had to give up as it was too deep. The 3 walkers remained buried.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Adrian "Hands" lands an anti sub heavyweight CAB on the A82 to take us to an avalanche BEM 1992. </i></span></div>
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A few days later truly a massive blizzard strikes, roads are closed and we get a call that three climbers are missing from Curved Ridge. We parked the yellow rescue trucks bang in the middle of the A82 at the Kingshouse junction and SAR 177 with Adrian "Hands" as pilot land on. I was first on as observer up front, with Ronnie Rodger in back, we fly around the mountain on what is a blue sky morning with feet deep snow covering everything. John suggests we fly the East face "Ladys Gully" Central Buttress side but we see nothing at first. I get "Hands" to overfly the Chasm which you could have skied down. The Devils Cauldron was filled level. Snow depth for that about 180ft (that spring it was fun to climb up the 180ft snow chimney and the back wall of the Devils Cauldron). We got winched out below Central Buttress at about "Pontoon" the rock climb, and start to zig zag the slope when Ronnie finds a glove then a few feet further down a crampon. We know we are on the right track and call up the team who included Mick Tigh who offered his climbing clients as spot probers. After a couple of hours Tony Sykes who was then in his first year in the team shouted he had found something. He was right under the rocks of Central Buttress. Blue sky had gone and we were now in a blizzard, but in about an hour we had dug out the three victims all on top of each other in a tangled mess of trauma and equipment. The following day early morning I am back up to the ski rescue and passing the Buachaille and looking across at where three other folk are still buried and it clicks that at any point in the next weeks/months John or I will get a call to look at something nasty in or poking out of the snow. Something happened at that moment and I still remember it. Like my happiness switch clicked off and a knot in my stomach.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Living next to the vehicles gave me the task of keeping them clear. </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Often 3 or 4 rescues each weekend in the 90's. Pre mobile phone.</i></span></div>
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The wife of the missing father and son came to stay in a Bed and Breakfast just around the corner from me, and was waiting for us do do something when the thaw came. It was to be a very long wait. The local vicar was very good with her, and "chapeu" to the local Police in particular Sgt Kenny Lindsay who acted as her link to what was happening. Knowing she was waiting on resolution was a constant burden for her and for us. Meanwhile climbers fall off and get killed, injured and skiers break bones including the UK head of marketing for Sainsbury's who breaks his back on the Fly Paper and who I have to deal with. Thankfully he made a good recovery, but not many folk get a private ambulance to the airport for transfer to a spinal unit. It was a fantastic ski season with sun and 6 weeks of skiing back to the car at Glencoe</div>
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The RAF teams have an odd probe of the big tip over the coming weeks, but nothing is found. Then one day early April a walker phones the Police as he says he smells something. John calls us out and though there is no smell (maybe we are used to it) we have a probe around as the level of debris has reduced by about 20 feet. We find victim one at a depth of 2 meters. An hour later and a bit away we find number two. Number two's recovery - something happened inside me. I didn't get upset by physical trauma having seen plenty (and suffered some myself) and had by this time been on the recovery of well over a hundred fatal victims just in the mountains never mind the other stuff. I stayed digging for the next hour until we found number three at the very spot we had been standing the night we all nearly got buried. This wasn't a troubling scene visually, yet somehow it broke something in me as there was a big pocket or space around the victim. I dropped my probe, didn't speak to anyone and just walked off the hill. I crossed the bridge at Lagangarbh and the local undertaker had three grey fibreglass coffins open with the lids off leaning against the stock fence at the side of the path. I glibly remarked that trade had been good this winter. Three weeks later I got a donation of £350 for the team in the post from him.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBwncpnFcp3dKemAsV9_hzHrk1-hEiu-YvZkzXn8pgEvhKJErvONEdJE7tTWeZ4db2CLJKZJb_sSCmvfK4iFNfzEAzxwqr4GGRdUW4yghxqwp7S3TAu1dnNiTIKBP5BF8HxlhuYtN_mA/s1600/Picture1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBwncpnFcp3dKemAsV9_hzHrk1-hEiu-YvZkzXn8pgEvhKJErvONEdJE7tTWeZ4db2CLJKZJb_sSCmvfK4iFNfzEAzxwqr4GGRdUW4yghxqwp7S3TAu1dnNiTIKBP5BF8HxlhuYtN_mA/s1600/Picture1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>GMRT Stalwart Walter Elliot and the late Alan Findlay digging deep</i></span></td></tr>
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I walked past the coffins, up onto the road and thumbed a lift to Clachaig where I got pissed on Scrumpy Jack and had to be taken home. What Fiona, Esther and Duncan made of this slobbering drunk I have no idea, but I can just recollect Fiona laying me on the couch and taking off my boots and covering me with a blanket. At some point in the night I tried to get up to bed and fell down the stairs breaking all the pictures on the way down. What patience and tolerance my family must have.</div>
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I moved on from the above (I thought) and until five years ago was still involved in MR and dealt with many more horrific events including people burning in helicopters and finding another two climbing friends (Dougie and Bish Macara) dead. It all diminishes you, but by that time I had a better coping mechanism and new about debriefing, and the pub!<br />
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I was fortunate that from 1994 I had many good friends in the team who were not frightened to call me an arse if I got decisions wrong, and also support me as I supported them when some events became overwhelming. You know who you are - so thanks guys. It wasn't until I left the rescue team which was in Jan 2009 after yet another triple fatal avalanche (where I found the last victim by probe) that I realised that since 1994 my happiness button had faulty wiring. In the intervening years folk would say of me at times that I was a driven man. I would drive myself into the ground physically running and racing my bike and seemed to cope with the extreme stress of life and death decisions yet I would get random anxiety attacks over very minor things. My local GP sent me to speak to someone who over a few months talked me back over things until a light went on what my head was telling me, that I had been feeling like undertaker in winter, not a medic. With rethinking and knowledge of this faulty thought imprint I was sorted, the light back bright, and I was released from a thinking trap that winter equals death and loss. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>When it all works and a life is saved then it's worth it</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dealing with nasty things has a cost. It's all very well being in a rescue service, but you are also volunteering your family for it, and they are the foundations for you at the sharp end. Don't take that for granted, and make sure they get recognition and be sure to be aware of colleagues who might struggle. It's not a weakness. It's simply not normal to deal with abnormal disturbing events and not have a normal reaction. When your head's sorted you can still deal with tough shit and know you are ok.<br />
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Why am I sharing this now? Winter 2013 was a nasty one for avalanches. The emotional toll on some of the rescuers dealing with the avalanche that took our cycling buddy Chris has hit some folk hard and I had my own involvement with that. Even as a ski patroller there was no avoiding the toll with the loss of Danny in an avalanche off the West of Glencoe Mountain and the events both leading to this, and the toll on friends and ski patrollers after. I had my own complacent re visit of the white room and an injured hip and spine to deal with, but had the time to be an ear to listen to folks and easily conclude that 2013 would fuck up some folks.<br />
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2014 was the shittest winter weather I can recall in a while, although paradoxically the sheer volume of snow made everyone wary, so despite the most recorded avalanches at least no one died. The baggage of 2013 like a rollover lottery carried over though, and I think its time we all recognised that it's human and normal to suffer after abnormal events. Help is out there and books like the one mentioned de mystify what happens to us. Maybe if folk like me are more open about it then the subject gets an airing and folks who are struggling can get the support they need.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trauma-Lockerbie-trauma-affects-minds-ebook/dp/B008BSRTFC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400832152&sr=8-1&keywords=trauma" target="_blank"><b>Trauma. From Lockerbie to 7/7</b></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>A newer local MR rescuer said to me this winter "all you do is run around looking for beepers - what do you know about digging up avalanche victims". Not a lot I said, other than it requires no brains. Avalanche education and prevention gives me more satisfaction.</i></span><br />
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<i>Post Script.</i><br />
I realise this blog post makes uncomfortable reading. It certainly wasn't comfortable to write. It has been a work in progress from 2013 when a member of a local MRT came to see me very troubled by some events. Then another had a tough time with depression, and in the meantime a few folk couldn't put some events behind them and every conversation was dominated by a specific avalanche event.<br /><br />My purpose in this blog post is to show there is nothing wrong. That asking for help is not a weakness and that your family can only take so much and give so much. Help is available but has to be sought. If not for your sake then the families. To <b>not</b> be troubled by the pain of misfortune from the loss of young lives - now that would be abnormal!</td></tr>
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Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6262241061441269838.post-17391427895934970062021-10-19T11:04:00.000+01:002021-10-19T12:59:55.269+01:00Winter is Coming. Are you Prepared?<p><span style="font-size: small;"><b>I have been selling avalanche safety gear for ten years now. Discounts to professionals and rescue teams/ski patrol, and local free skiers/tourers and mountaineers. I also provide Recco training as UK trainer for Recco and I sell Recco reflectors. If you buy a beacon off me I am quite happy to give you some free tuition up at Glencoe Mountains Beacon training park, a bonus you will not get online. Give me a call or email/PM me for a quote if you need any avalanche safety equipment.</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdlba-pc1OZJ6p43om5IhAN-MKiTPrVzpmtEAG_9vCtyfcWJj8zIuGKJXaPBR7LqcUPRA2yrf6xWJQTxTpONZkn7YnwOJNp85JL7rYreIoyewbqp364zKSGApIPRMso29Ter7kJKV1PlU/s741/GameOfThrones1.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="406" data-original-width="741" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdlba-pc1OZJ6p43om5IhAN-MKiTPrVzpmtEAG_9vCtyfcWJj8zIuGKJXaPBR7LqcUPRA2yrf6xWJQTxTpONZkn7YnwOJNp85JL7rYreIoyewbqp364zKSGApIPRMso29Ter7kJKV1PlU/w400-h219/GameOfThrones1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;">A few thoughts on slope assessment, avalanches and safety gear. First thing to mention is try not to get avalanched by pre depart planning and weather and avy forecast research and ongoing dynamic risk assessment during your day. We live in an uncertain world never more so than now with Covid. The only certainty is that we live with uncertainty and those of us who have spent our lives in the mountains accept this is just how it is on winter mountains. Sadly this uncertainty means we have all been caught out, despite making what we thought were good decisions. Me included. I count myself very fortunate having seen so many folk who didn't survive. The gear I sell is all very high quality Austrian manufactured "Ortovox" which have a long history of developing reliable technology that will not let you down. As a bonus all their transceivers also have a Recco reflector built in. We live with uncertainty, but our objective is to reduce that as much as possible. Look ahead, consult the avalanche forecast and plan ahead making decisions to avoid avalanche terrain. The mountains will be there another day so allow them to tell you to go home as well.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7S2WGm6YOiw1PJ0jaIksp3MwgQ9KAnHwSjFlTanCFO3610MGaexYpuByDWF_79sJhdXiMmKJlt5O0TpjNE3Q9wqnxGP8EcNq8DZIQZnM6_BKILN1O8TQAuJI9AhBZvSrKnOHUuFi_hQ/s1920/April.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7S2WGm6YOiw1PJ0jaIksp3MwgQ9KAnHwSjFlTanCFO3610MGaexYpuByDWF_79sJhdXiMmKJlt5O0TpjNE3Q9wqnxGP8EcNq8DZIQZnM6_BKILN1O8TQAuJI9AhBZvSrKnOHUuFi_hQ/w400-h266/April.jpg" width="400" /></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><i>Winter 21/22 is predicted to be growth year in Free Touring and at time when getting safety kit is problematic due to supply chain issues and price hikes. New folk will be entering terrain with avalanche risk. They need the knowledge and gear to do this safely<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">During travel look around you and observe what's happening under your feet and listen to the snow. Look for red flags such as avalanche activity, wind drifted snow, recent snowfall, whumping and cracking and also be wary during rapid rises in temperature as wet snow slides and cornice collapse can trigger huge slides such as occur in Observatory Gully and Lagangarbh Corrie to name but two. Based on the avy forecast (it's an area forecast and not cast in stone that its right!) and importantly what you observe, stop and do snow stability tests. ECT or shovel shear and compression. This is only to confirm what you should spatially be aware of. Stopping and doing these tests is also an opportunity to talk and air views (and concerns) and make the critical decisions of whether your about to bet with your life or that of others. Its a fact that groups that are not hierarchical and communicate well perform better and have less catastrophic events than ones who allow experts to lead without question, or suffer peer pressure and are not equal in allowing a voice to raise concerns. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2e3PajD9KgjpMaPV5EGePK7Sc3UhlvL2_AoQhngkf7nB3rqz2OU9fVyxkpU4Y6bfwMq3ZO8rrYCFKaJ4jGBac0Bw6jNwAPaU8FWkU53MPIdr05-jQlRS5zGT8nk51UE1g2pF9o0XihQ/s1170/BEM+1994.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1170" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2e3PajD9KgjpMaPV5EGePK7Sc3UhlvL2_AoQhngkf7nB3rqz2OU9fVyxkpU4Y6bfwMq3ZO8rrYCFKaJ4jGBac0Bw6jNwAPaU8FWkU53MPIdr05-jQlRS5zGT8nk51UE1g2pF9o0XihQ/w400-h256/BEM+1994.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>1994. Looking up Coire na Tulaich and the main ascent descent route from the Buachaille. Three walkers under 10m+ of snow triggered from a party above.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Before making a drop in or committing to a slope up or down or across also consider these factors:</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">A</span>ngle.</b> Most avalanches are triggered on slopes roughly between 32 and 45 degrees. Below 32 degrees victim triggered slab avalanches are less common and above this angle slopes purge more frequently. The "Sweet Spot" where most avalanches are triggered is about 40ish degrees with over 90% of victim triggered slides occurring in a 7 degree range bracketing that sweet spot. You can conclude from this that angle is a really important part of slope assessment and subtle changes of angle on a given slope can have major consequences, therefore route choice and awareness of slope angle is really important. Modern phone apps make judging the angle much easier. Rule of thumb for me personally is that as the avalanche forecast risk for a given altitude and aspect goes up - then the angle and altitude of what you ski comes down. More recent research has shown convexity/concavity to be less important than angle.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">A</span>nchors.</b> What is the snowpack connected to. Have you been following the weather and SAIS forecast. Are there weak layers within the snowpack. Tree's and rocks can hold a slope as your friend or can be weak spots as your enemy where sun heat or hoar frost has gathered. Subtle angle changes create trigger points at these places. Tree's are also natures cheese grater if you get taken into them. Also ask yourself what the slope you are on is linked into from the underlying snowpack. Unstable snowpack can often propagate a collapse into nearby slopes and draw an avalanche into lower angled terrain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">A</span>spect</b>. Which compass direction does the slope you want to ski or travel face. Like angle, subtle changes in aspect can take you from a safe slope onto a loaded one. Carry a compass and learn about "slope aspect" as both a navigation and safe travel tool. The SAIS forecast gives you the necessary hazard warning for compass direction but you need to apply it on the ground accurately. Again some phone apps can help with this, and even give you the area forecast. The new SAIS app is a must for Scotland.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">A</span>ltitude.</b> You can see by looking at the SAIS forecast that the hazard risk is most often greater with altitude, even in Scotland. The rate of snow deposition is higher with height, and the wind is also stronger increasing side loading of slopes. On dodgy days stay lower as well as skiing lower angled slopes.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwsxX22ycnyDO1L2hashAx6gm9Aaur8HPhp67xMJLs748s1OZxMm46XiyyD8c6E4p0p8Pp1M2XRO30JTF0YmacSmEIxrsp0O00ASZSPsVwWKic8j2aXE-Y4rhgBO6XhxKKW_u7BYRp1I/s1600/Glencoe+Avy.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwsxX22ycnyDO1L2hashAx6gm9Aaur8HPhp67xMJLs748s1OZxMm46XiyyD8c6E4p0p8Pp1M2XRO30JTF0YmacSmEIxrsp0O00ASZSPsVwWKic8j2aXE-Y4rhgBO6XhxKKW_u7BYRp1I/s1600/Glencoe+Avy.JPG" width="475" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><i><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;">Folk need to know how to apply the forecast to trip planning by learning to understand it</span></b></i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Apply safe travel methods when skinning up and keep spaced and avoid terrain traps when choosing your skin line. A slide coming from above will have the full width, breadth and depth bearing down on you. Unless its a clear runout your pretty well fecked as any stream bed or features will trap you and allow the snow to build up deeply over you. Choose your line well and with some thought.<br /><br /></div><div style="mso-char-wrap: 1; mso-kinsoku-overflow: 1;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">C</span>omplexity.</b><span style="text-align: justify;"> As mentioned above. Be aware of subtle changes in angle and aspect and that localised instabilities are hidden and like a landmine can link one triggered mine to a chain reaction and a small slide gathering surrounding instabilities into a major avalanche event. Learn to read mapping for subtleties of terrain features and how snow may be affected, and think safety by pre imagining what could go wrong. If it's a complex route then its often unsafe as there are too many unknowns. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">C</span>ommitment.</b> Always have a plan "B" so that if conditions change or are not what you expected you have another safer option. Commitment to a slope can mean no bale out options, i.e having no where to go. If you look at the pro's on youtube they choose their line so they can bale out onto a spine and have good runouts and that's where the next "C" comes into play - consequences.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: red;">C</span>onsequences. </b>If an amber light's on in your head so your in a go/no go process, then add consequence into the thought mix. Are there crags, hollows, stream beds, tree's or any other terrain features that could shred you or trap you if there is an avalanche. Transceiver, shovel, probe and/or airbag will not stop you getting your limbs ripped apart from tree's, your head humped like mince, or with an inflated airbag under a few hundred tons of snow. Airbags are good with a save rate of between 10 and 13 more people per hundred victims - but only if the runout is good.<br /><br />More up to date North American stats also show that many more people die from two of the triple "H" than was thought. Hypoxia and Hypercapnia kill quickly, even folk dug out very fast getting advanced life support don't often survive.<br /><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><b>Triple "H" syndrome</b> is <b>H</b>ypoxia, <b>H</b>ypercapnia (i.e re breathing your own carbon dioxide) and <b>H</b>ypothermia. </i></span><br /><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Hypothermia can have a protective effect in rapid cold water immersion, but in an avalanche cooling is slow, especially as modern clothing retains heat so well. In fact its not so much the lack of oxygen as the hypercapnia that makes survival so poor in a an avalanche, and this with hypoxia is also related to snow density<span style="color: #4c1130;">)</span></i></span>. 15 minutes as often shown in survival graphs is quite optimistic. You need to search fast and dig faster (which means practise these skills more) as time is not on the victims side.<br /><br />When dropping in stay next to each others tracks, go one at a time well spaced and from a safe area to safe area. What's a safe area? Good question as sometimes there are none, but basically its somewhere out of any slide path that you can identify. Consider that if its a big slide it could encroach on your safety island so pick your spot with care.<br /><br />Be prepared to carry out a rescue. You are on your own as organised rescue will be too late. Talk this over before dropping in. You should all have done an avy course and so will have the gear, done the pre checks and discussed a plan - won't you? If you have not done an an avy course then consider why the feck are you even doing this!</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVbG7dv0plrPd5k5ajLn254bIviUSDGhWFyxnzK-ZaCJvghcX_O8yc_d66N9m2nUTv2ucsHqv3zZVSogx6hD_VPlxc6bxM9H27HSvhjmErO6LaHfp-3E_Y6PlOi7c5nMOwQr9lzTw4pM/s2048/11410-DIRACT_VOICE-D-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1591" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVbG7dv0plrPd5k5ajLn254bIviUSDGhWFyxnzK-ZaCJvghcX_O8yc_d66N9m2nUTv2ucsHqv3zZVSogx6hD_VPlxc6bxM9H27HSvhjmErO6LaHfp-3E_Y6PlOi7c5nMOwQr9lzTw4pM/w311-h400/11410-DIRACT_VOICE-D-01.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><i>Ortovox "Diract". Voice guides to help you through the search, 3 antenna & smart antenna tech (analyzes the device’s location in the avalanche and automatically switches to the best transmitting antenna. This means you get up to double the range and will be found more quickly!) flag feature, Recco inside. Lithium Ion rechargeable, blue tooth to phone (Apple and IOS) for any software upgrades and checks. </i></b><span style="text-align: center;"><b><i><a href="https://youtu.be/O3Y4x2uPA_8">https://youtu.be/O3Y4x2uPA_8</a></i></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></span></div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1bL-cC5vcZyOzy1N6Nf6AnWjwEEuvFE4pwfhq3AW7-KrzQyaAGVuM37Pp-53_CC_M7RRAxRTMrTgLPrh63XWk0KGZXqd7Mzbn6V3XZjn13QU4w0RqDN23KXMaKV9IpAv26uZakSdQBK8/s2000/Diract-Tragesystem.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1bL-cC5vcZyOzy1N6Nf6AnWjwEEuvFE4pwfhq3AW7-KrzQyaAGVuM37Pp-53_CC_M7RRAxRTMrTgLPrh63XWk0KGZXqd7Mzbn6V3XZjn13QU4w0RqDN23KXMaKV9IpAv26uZakSdQBK8/w400-h400/Diract-Tragesystem.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><br /><p><b><br /></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVnU495_O0lT2pS5_sMAeTgXKm3WH2e37Ms5dRN5w51WEd84Fq5NCkDvcDx-OyZvDRyBZGlptn8i1aCbOKmywy1mDu573wEaZO321iClp2faGPHukgKvCZd3ftosspUPxrhbIXohuk8E/s1600/1.5m+Deep.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVnU495_O0lT2pS5_sMAeTgXKm3WH2e37Ms5dRN5w51WEd84Fq5NCkDvcDx-OyZvDRyBZGlptn8i1aCbOKmywy1mDu573wEaZO321iClp2faGPHukgKvCZd3ftosspUPxrhbIXohuk8E/w400-h300/1.5m+Deep.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>The average depth of a buried skier is 1.5 meters. You need a good shovel and a structured method to remove the snow fast and get the victim's airway cleared. Time to dig is "Triple H" the killer triad of Hypoxia, Hypercapnia (re breathing your own Co2) and Hypothermia.</i></div><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBObuQLHKg3uALz6W3ZkhQIwI2yJX-Ayi0wq6rIWe4Q8qY_l-RxFnmdHNc6i4naxKVDurhtYletTRNGVH-0UaZqNCKIj1-6y8Qr8AS6CJBNdu2TFLyxwpSsdy0K09oZ2sIH7OUOQM3ReE/s1600/SHOVEL-PRO-ALU-III-21203-blue-MidRes.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="503" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBObuQLHKg3uALz6W3ZkhQIwI2yJX-Ayi0wq6rIWe4Q8qY_l-RxFnmdHNc6i4naxKVDurhtYletTRNGVH-0UaZqNCKIj1-6y8Qr8AS6CJBNdu2TFLyxwpSsdy0K09oZ2sIH7OUOQM3ReE/w124-h400/SHOVEL-PRO-ALU-III-21203-blue-MidRes.jpg" width="124" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>Pro Alu III shovel. This also converts to a hoe which is really important when using the conveyor method to dig a victim out quickly as it speeds things up clearing behind the diggers on point conveyor shoveling. </i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.ortovox.com/uk-en/emergency-equipment/advisor/avalanche-shovel-guide" style="text-align: left;">https://www.ortovox.com/uk-en/emergency-equipment/advisor/avalanche-shovel-guide</a></div><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AQt3r7qsK8sWFUy9xiqlsUHMbZmZuh1C2vg_QpLL27t0mMPTmAxOXaM3fJ-Ew9y2j9FkkY0xN2DkCZLZuLHlQtAtr2f221BFhIAdYJW8S58cYL8nRUhPpb_PtIjCXj2lPQC0pULuSEE/s1600/alu-320-pfa.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1200" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AQt3r7qsK8sWFUy9xiqlsUHMbZmZuh1C2vg_QpLL27t0mMPTmAxOXaM3fJ-Ew9y2j9FkkY0xN2DkCZLZuLHlQtAtr2f221BFhIAdYJW8S58cYL8nRUhPpb_PtIjCXj2lPQC0pULuSEE/s320/alu-320-pfa.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>320 PFA Probe. As a pro user perhaps also working with Winter ML groups you need a longer probe for picking snow hole sites and also a longer one for the deep burials common to buried mountaineers in terrain traps</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.ortovox.com/uk-en/emergency-equipment/advisor/avalanche-probes-guide" style="text-align: left;">https://www.ortovox.com/uk-en/emergency-equipment/advisor/avalanche-probes-guide</a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCHxSdrGcmVoyv7ETgEkBlXsmobQPq4L5RYuI9TrWtayC-uA7FcpjB6ABXxNZopm_bjhmZ8BkURuGlgoaLGlGHkeaFsl-BNIweNg-gVe-pnajDNcBpZq5q0-KzoCntpfndz-JWR6HTISc/s1200/LVS-Set_3%252B_MidRes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1200" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCHxSdrGcmVoyv7ETgEkBlXsmobQPq4L5RYuI9TrWtayC-uA7FcpjB6ABXxNZopm_bjhmZ8BkURuGlgoaLGlGHkeaFsl-BNIweNg-gVe-pnajDNcBpZq5q0-KzoCntpfndz-JWR6HTISc/w400-h396/LVS-Set_3%252B_MidRes.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>Ortovox 3+ Safety Set includes Beacon, Badger Shovel and 240 alu Probe. This set saves a few £ over buying each item individually and a good option for free skiers. For those on a tight budget the "Zoom" beacon and safety set is adequate.</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYz0cXi6sN9_bKBtaFKoLjVVlMmBKZ2YjTxTpqSFi0Gkd6XKZC7xVgJB2c-62ZTGDKN1jC0gtQkXwhCH-utQaDo_tOOzxFTUeUZHNm66lzzU8UxVCztlr_Jrp6x2nijxVc3R7NI205g4/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="241" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYz0cXi6sN9_bKBtaFKoLjVVlMmBKZ2YjTxTpqSFi0Gkd6XKZC7xVgJB2c-62ZTGDKN1jC0gtQkXwhCH-utQaDo_tOOzxFTUeUZHNm66lzzU8UxVCztlr_Jrp6x2nijxVc3R7NI205g4/" width="319" /></a></div></i><h3><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">Mountaineers
might also want to consider carrying Recco reflectors either as sewn in by the
manufacturer or aftermarket. £50 gets your searchable with two reflectors.
While this is not companion rescue it at least helps organised rescue such as
MR find you as several MR teams and Scottish ski patrol have the Recco detector.</span></span></h3></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><br /><p><br /></p><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Crankitup Bikes & Gearhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10067430013849216148noreply@blogger.com0