Another find from the old PC to share. I can't remember what magazine this was written for could be "Cas Bag". Maybe it was just my pride at being a member from a very young age and at a time when I was not only a good athlete but pretty nails in bad situations. It was also a bit like a climbing club to some of us and I rubbed shoulders with many legends. Team members climbed all over the World from alpine grand courses to 8,000m peaks often together so previous to the mid 90's it was pretty unique but it made good climbers good rescuers. So forgive my rather prosaic writing and inflated view. Certainly a great bunch of folks and a great core of mountaineers who socialised and climbed together and I am sure its the same today. When I wrote this it was the transition from Hamish retiring and John taking over with me as deputy. John did a sterling job as leader for the next 20 years.
GLENCOE MOUNTAIN RESCUE TEAM
"Who has the hills for
friend
Has god speed to the end
- His path of lonely life
And wings of golden memory"
- Geoffrey Winthrop Young
Mountains are dangerous, and the
hills of the highlands especially so for those who do not respect the fickle
ways of the weather and hostile nature of the terrain. Mountains are dangerous - so are people -
many misfortunes have occurred due to nature executing a terrible revenge on a
momentary negligence or naiveté. Why do
people live work and play in the mountains?
Like love and hate, pleasure from the mountains is hard to define. A first climb is like first love, never
forgotten, a bench mark for all other recreations and relations. A
winter ascent, breaking out of the icy confines of a gully into the
gloaming of a sunset, snow on far away hills pink and blushing, is like an
incurable venereal affliction, the itch
never leaves and relief only comes from another impassioned assault.
"As with sweethearts, so
with places. No lover can say that he
knows the one or the other until he has been so often that he has lost count of
his visits".
T. Ratcliffe Barnett (Scotsman
1929. Describing the hills of the Blackmount)
People have accidents on the
mountains and always will. Attempts to
regulate our culture and recreation has left mountaineering as a last bastion
of freedom, where genuine adventure and misadventure can be sought without
rules and regulations. Rescuers are mountaineers and all mountaineers potential
rescuers. We in the Glencoe team offer
no overt criticism of the victims of misfortune as there is no adventure
without risk and team members are adventurers who accept fully the implications
of the choices others make.
Early days
Looking back to before the team
was formed we can only admire the courage of the early rescuers going to the
hill to search or evacuate those in trouble.
In the early part of this century mountaineering was a largely middle
class pastime. It is a testament to the
early rescuers that despite probably seeing the early climbers as a somewhat
eccentric bunch, it never deterred, nor I doubt would it ever have crossed
their mind, not to help someone in trouble.
Often ill equipped and with only paraffin lamps to guide the way, they
accomplished some amazing feats. No
helicopters then. Aitcheson the
keeper from Leac na Muidhe or one of the
other farmers in the area, be it Achtriochtan or Achnambeithach, Dan Mackay at
Altnafeadh or Downie from Allt na Reigh, would cycle round to gather together a
search party, perhaps including the local bobby if available. If it was an overly technical rescue perhaps
additional manpower would be sought from any climbers in the area, or a
telegram sent to the SMC clubrooms for assistance.
Later as mountaineering grew in
popularity a new class of mountaineer appeared from clubs such as the Lomonds
and the Creag Dubh. With little money
and poor equipment they relied on the hospitality of Dan Mackay or Downie for a
good doss in the barn. A weekend trip to
Glencoe for this pre W.W.II generation was a true test of determination. Finish work on Saturday afternoon, hitch or
scrounge a lift on a passing lorry to the Glen, doss the night, climb next day
then try and get back for work on Monday morning. For the true taste of
adventure at this time the book "Always a Little Further" by Alastair
Borthwick captures this enthusiasm. Even in this little gem of a book there is a rescue. A second could not follow his leader exiting
from the Devils Cauldron of the Buachaille Chasm. The leader descended to the Glen Etive road
where he stopped the local butcher who was delivering meat. The two went to the
top and pulled the stranded second to safety!
After the war mountaineering took
off on a big way and there was a tremendous proliferation of climbing clubs,
mainly from the universities. This
popularity of course resulted in an increase in the accident rate, but due to
the clubs coming to the Glen as bus parties climbing in one area, there were
often sufficient available for self rescue.
This ability to help themselves, and the increasing number of incidents
prompted the provision of first aid and stretchers at rescue posts in the Glen
by the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotland.
Groups could then get access to equipment and effect a rescue with a
proper stretcher. Previous to this it
was not unknown for someone to be carried off on a masons wheelbarrow or some
similar improvised transport.
As the post war years progressed
accidents became more common due to the increasing numbers taking to the
hills. The RAF mountain rescue which was
primarily for the rescue of downed aircrew, sought a new peacetime role, and
required training. Many weekends would
see personnel, also volunteers like their later civilian counterparts, from RAF
Kinloss or more commonly Leuchars MRT in the area for training. These RAF teams carried out many rescues in
the Glen and when the civilian team was formed, provided additional support on
protracted searches or busy weekends.
This close working relationship, in particular between RAF Leuchars MRT
and later when the SAR Wessex helicopters were based there, continues to this
day, although the SAR helicopter flight has now been closed, much to the
chagrin of all involved with mountain rescue.
Several figures deserve special
mention in the history of rescue in the Glen. Donald Duff of whom more later, and of course Hamish MacInnes. Also, a history no matter how brief, would
not be complete without mention of the Elliot family who without doubt set the
foundations of the team and who continue to take part in rescues. Walter Elliot senior and his sons William and
Walter received a certificate for distinguished services to mountain rescue in
1976. Another potent figure from the
early days of pre and post formation of the team, was Sandy Whillans, first as
a constable, and later as a sergeant in the Argyll constabulary. A strong personality and a commanding voice,
often heard before seen, Sandy took part in many difficult rescues and was a
dedicated rescuer. John Arthur - Dennis Barclay - The Knowles brothers and a
great stalwart, Eric Moss who came to the team after leaving the Army (Argyll
& Sutherland Highlanders) in which he had retired as a major. Also Huan Findlay from Achtriochtan who was a
powerhouse on a long stretcher carry and who's son is now a valued team member. Alan, Huan's son, Malcolm son of team member
Alan Thompson and Jamie, the son of another long standing team member Will
Thompson are second generation rescuers.
Also many bar staff of the Clachaig Hotel took part in rescues through
the years, some going on to become full members after taking residence in the
area.
Formation of the team
The Glencoe Mountain Rescue
Committee (later reformed to team) was formed in 1961 at a meeting convened at
the Clachaig Hotel Glencoe. This meeting was called by Hamish MacInnes then a
resident climber and climbing instructor in the Glen, for the purpose of
forming a local mountain rescue committee. The committee consisted of Dr. Duff
then resident general surgeon at the Belford Hospital Fort William as
president, Hamish MacInnes secretary, Brigader Martin Hon. President and N.
McLaughlin treasurer. The Elliot family of Achnambeith of whom the father,
William senior had been active for some 30 years or more in rescue, and who's
two sons, Walter were also key figures and elected onto the committee, although
absent at the inaugural meeting. The
Elliot family have been a keystone in rescue in Glencoe. The small cottage in which they dwell has
been the focal point of many rescue operations, and it would be true to say
that literally hundreds of mountaineers have received succour from the family
while awaiting news of injured or lost
friends. Also elected in their absence
were Dennis Barclay and J.W Simpson. In
addition to the office bearers elected at the meeting, other founder members
present were Hector Beaton of Achtriochtan farm (Now Findlays), J. Feeny, E.
Blackhall and J. Robertson.
Insurance in the early formative
days of the team proved difficult. The
only solution at that time was for team members to become special
constables. This is now no longer the case
which is just as well as it proved a contentious issue.
Dr. Duff was also instrumental in
forming the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team, and personally took part in many
rescues on the Ben and Glencoe. Dr. Duff
could certainly be regarded as the father figure of mountain rescue in this
area, as it was his motivation that formalised the formation of the two teams,
bringing together local shepherds, mountaineers and forestry workers on a more
organised basis. Up till this point
rescuers were a hotch potch of whoever could be got hold of at the time of an
incident, with a telegram sent to the Scottish Mountaineering Club in Glasgow
for assistance, or assistance requested from the Lochaber branch of the Junior Mountaineering
Club of Scotland if technical climbers were required.
As an insight to Dr. Duff I have
reprinted this extract from the SMC Journal 1969:
Donald G. Duff, M.C - M.B.E -
FRCS
In 1945 the EUMC had a winter
meet at Achintee farm and it was there that I first heard of Donald duff. Gordon Parish took me to meet him and we
found him battling his way to the Belford Hospital in filthy weather on an old
bicycle. This typified the man -
independent, scorning hardship and always keeping himself fit. Even in the coldest weather he never wore an
overcoat or sweater to work. His love of
mountains was great and the Belford Hospital was always known as an emergency
bothy for stray mountaineers. The
hospital saw many other facets of his interests and it was not unusual to find
him coming up from the boiler house where he had been carrying out experiments
on rock fusion in furtherance of his interest in vitrified forts.
Perhaps he is most widely known
for the Duff stretcher which he developed for Mountain Rescue work - and it was
always a source of pride to him that one was taken on the 1953 Everest
ascent. He formed and led the Lochaber
Mountain Rescue Team and a call out on Ben Nevis always benefited from his
boundless energy, and it is all too often forgotten that when the team staggered
wearily to bed after a hard night Mr. Duff had to then begin his work as a
surgeon on the casualty. Because of this
devotion he was awarded the M.B.E and made an Honorary Member of the Club,
which he joined in 1946.
I knew him best as a medical
colleague from working in Fort William.
He was always approachable by his patients - a somewhat rare trait in
many N.H.S hospitals - and his medical skill was diverse. In these days of specialisation one rarely
finds a man who is a surgeon (and known for a specialised instrument for
neurosurgery) a good General Practitioner and also skilled in Obstetrics. In his medical work he gave vent to his
inventive leanings in a variety of instruments that might have looked strange
but nevertheless were highly effective in his hands.
J.S.B
Hamish MacInnes, who for the next
33 years was the Glencoe team leader.
From an engineering background, and for many years at the forefront of mountaineering
both here and abroad. Hamish is one of
the great technical innovators of rescue. His textbook "The International
Mountain Rescue Handbook" can be regarded as a definitive text on the
subject {being revised 1995/96}. Hamish
was instrumental in the formation of the team and like Dr Duff before him,
designed a stretcher for mountain rescue work.
The "MacInnes" stretcher is now the workhorse of Scottish
Mountain rescue.
The Glen & The Team
Glencoe has a rugged geography
and unique geology. It has the greatest
number of Chasms and gully systems in the UK, and the longest narrow serrated
ridge on the mainland {Aonach Eagach}, unbroken for 3.5 miles and all above 3,
000ft. Glencoe's main peaks radiate from
the central massif of the Bidean range, and many are mountaineering expeditions
due to limited access up through river gorges or through cliffs.
As a rescue team, the Glencoe MRT
covers from Loch Etive & Blackmount round to the Duror of Appin hills
{which also have Scotland's deepest pothole from which we also carry out
rescues}, North to the Kinlochleven Mamores, over Corran Ferry to Ardnamurchan and off course Glencoe itself. This is an area of some 600 square miles with
35 peaks of over 3,000ft and 100 of 2,000ft or more. The team is also currently taking back the Ardgour area which as part of Argyll was in its area and included in Glencoe guide books. With the new Corran ferry boats, links are much better and access from here quicker by day, It is a sobering business getting dropped off
by helicopter at an approximate location somewhere in Lochaber or Argyll the dark and in bad weather. A fair
degree of luck in assessing just quite where you are is required!
The Scottish Mountain Safety
report on mountain accidents highlighted that Glencoe was a dangerous place for
the inexperienced mountaineer. 23% of rescues in this area are for fatalities.
The team operates a two tiered response
system. All team members are called by
radio, with a telephone backup by three designated team members wives. Coverage is achieved via a relay station on a
hill above the village, and talk through repeaters at crucial points. If a report of a serious injury is received a
Priority Call out takes place, a helicopter, immediately requested, and within
5 minutes one of three 4WD rescue vehicles leaves for a designated rendezvous
point.
On arrival some team members
leave immediately carrying, resuscitation equipment - spare O2 - vacuum mat and
technical equipment as required.
Additional equipment is taken up as required or when information
trickles back to those from further away who arrive at the rendezvous site
later. Regardless of other equipment
required, the First Aider with resuscitation equipment is always away fast even
if he leaves on his own. This
"Priority" call gets someone to the injured mountaineer as quickly as
possible. Due to now being called
occasionally by mobile phones, team members can on occasion be with an injured
person in the Glen within 1 hour from an accident occurring. This speed of response, followed by prompt
transfer by helicopter, has proved beneficial to the critically injured. We are fortunate in having a good working
relationship with the RAF and Navy SAR helicopters which proves invaluable. Likewise
the staff of the Belford hospital are extremely supportive of our efforts and
provide excellent feedback to us.
Other, less immediate call outs
require a less hurried departure. Less
immediately important calls would be for those who are cragfast {stuck} or for
a simple lower leg fracture, {a common injury for hill walkers}, or when a
large scale search needs organised. It
should be borne in mind that off the 60 or so rescues that we do each year,
some will require 6 to 8 hours in execution due to technical hazards or bad
weather, and large scale searches can take from one to three days {and in some
cases months}!
During a probationary year a team member must display the
ability to move over difficult ground, summer or winter in the dark,
and be willing to work unaccompanied. A
team approach is of course mandatory, but we do not regard mountain rescue as a
training ground for those who are not already sound mountaineers.
Equipment Notes: x 2
for each 4WD Vehicle
Laerdal Heartstart 911
Nellcor N20 Pulse Oximeter
Pneupack Pulse Oximeter
Sabre 240 Aluminium O2 Sets
SOS Aluminium "D" O2
Sets
Nitronox/Entonox
Ambu Spur BVMs
Oro/Naso Airways/Laryngeal Masks
Combitube airways
3 x Sets adult Stifneck collars
Intubation Kit
Hartwell Medical Aeromedical
Vacuum Matts
Cannulas
Asherman chest seals
Analgesia: Nubain - Cyclomorph & Narcan
Technical
2 MacInnes Mk 5/6Stretchers
3 x Casualty Bags - Flectalon
6 x Body Bags
8 x 160- 300 - 500 Ropes
Rope pully's - Descenduers etc.
5 x Handheld 1 million candle power searchlights
3 Million candle power parachute flares
Transport
1 x Landrover TDI
2 x 4WD Customised Turbo Charged
Transits. Each Have:
3 Base Radio sets & Scanners
Roof mounted 2 million candle
power searchlight
Roof mounted 8,000 watt Tannoy
system
Large night vision sight from
Conqueror battle tank
Perimeter floodlight system
Radios
Motorola GP 300 series + Scanners
{each team member has a personal set}
2 private frequencies + National Rescue Frequency
David Gunn
1995
