Road Trip with the Lads

Road trips are a big part of climbing culture. I certainly did plenty with Fiona as I was lucky to have a climbing and life partner all in one. Lads trips fuelled by beer and bravado were also great fun. Most relatively straightforward. Drive, climb, beer, repeat. Some were mini epics even before the drive though. 

We were only about 3 years married. I had an old banger Ford Escort with no MOT or handbrake for taking firewood from the Forest above our house where I was clear felling. I had filled it with logs at the bottom of what we knew as "The Tarry Brae". Unusually it was a steep section of forest road that had tar laid on it. I filled the car up with logs, went over the top and the bugger just stopped and started slowly rolling back. I thought I had time to get the brick under a back wheel but it skewed out and I was left hanging off the open boot full of logs and slipped off the the side as the car went back stopping itself on a big butt at the side of the road. Pretty grazed up and shaken I got back in and after several try's got the car going again and gunned it over the top and back down a gentler but longer way back.  Arriving back I dumped the old car at the house and Fiona told me George Reid had been on the phone. Paul Rodgers and Paul Moores both Joint Services Mountain Training Instructors were going down to North Wales for three days did I want to come so we had two ropes of two. I ok'd it with Fiona, and they agreed to come down and collect me about 7 o'clock that night, but we needed to go down via an up to Fort George. 

Climbers Club Hut Llanberis

We arrived in Inverness about 9pm, found a bar and Paul went off to Fort George for something.  We got picked back up about 11pm and headed South at mach1 in Pauls RS Cosworth arriving late at a  railway bridge near Penrith where we could get under and sleep. I kept rolling off down into a fence where rail tracks were and every half an hour a goods train rumbled past. Not the best of sleeps. Early morning we head South with a visit to the  Great Orme Pen Trwyn and climbs left of Parisellas Cave where sport climbing had recently started. Short brutal hard climbs and a Jerry Moffat playground. Llandudno is a sort of Welsh Blackpool with not much to commend itself to climbers but plenty if your old. 

Wrecked fingers later and off to Llanberis and the Pass. It had been five years since my last visit to the pass, where darts with Mo, Joe and Whillans at the Padarn were the evening entertainment. Again we stayed at Ynys Ettws the climber Club hut where there was a meet on including some Fell & Rock folk we new such as Nick Escort. We manged to blag the last available bunks. I was on the top one of a three tier. Down to the "old Vic" for a beer with Mo and Joe which turned out to be several as folk we knew turned up like John Ellis Roberts whom I had met through mountain rescue a few years earlier. Many pints were had. I vaguely remember folk gathered around me in the middle of the night as I got up for a piss forgetting I was 15ft up and crashed onto the floor waking everyone up. I don't know how, but I didn't piss myself!  Anyway, breakfast at Pete's Eats then out to Gogarth for Quartz Icicles, Dreams of White Horses, abseils, drowning potential, sea and sunshine. "Dreams" was regarded as an exciting HVS 4c back then, which technically is about right. However, waves crash over the first pitch if you go low, and if you fall off the last pitch you better have prussiks or your not coming back up. The other option is down into the Zawn and drowning.

A good days climbing was had and we headed out to sunny Caernarfon for beer, fish and chips, and visit to a local climbers pub with rough men, pretty women and trouble brewing. I made the mistake of thinking I could just chat to a girl that came over to speak not realising green eyed monsters were watching. We escaped back to the Llanberis and the old Vic again. Next day was spent in the pass ticking of Brant Direct, Slape Direct and Ribs with Crackstones and Crackstones with Ribs, Eroded Grooves and me flying off a polished Unicorn Direct not knowing it was a sandbag. Many routes later and dehydration so George produces two cans of Macewans Export from his rucksack. We stash gear and put on our packs. He cracks a tinny and takes a good slurp puts the can down and I bend over to get it and a huge rock hits my back and knocks me over. A guy above the crag must have knocked the rock off. You kind of just shrug that shit off. I was more shaken from flying off the shiny polished second pitch of  Unicorn as my hand jams pulled.

Tremendous Book ***

Back down to the car and mach1 northwards through late Sunday night traffic, arriving back in Duror about 1am. A snuggle up to a warm cosy young wife, get up at 7am, collect the Husky chainsaw, fuel cans and stuff and up the wood to cut as many tons of trees as I could. Road trips were fun. Not sure where time has gone as back then we thought we had forever. Now only memories. 

Post Script. 

• John Ellis Roberts died in a climbing accident on Dinas Cromlech July 2014

• Paul Rodgers lost his life in the Cairngorms January 1984 

"Where the mountains touch the sky,

Where poets DREAM, where eagles fly,

A secret place above the crowd,

Just beneath a silver-lined cloud"

Spring, a notional concept

“Spring passes and one remembers one’s innocence.

Summer passes and one remembers one’s exuberance.
Autumn passes and one remembers one’s reverence.
Winter passes and one remembers one’s perseverance.”

Yoko Ono

The Scottish "Spring" has arrived early and as usual it is a very notional concept as we have some winter up high. Snow drops are popping up early, bulbs and daffys are growing and even Glencoe village has the sun threatening to appear after is long holiday below Am Meall.  Glencoe Massacre day on the 13th is when we at the lower end of the village get a blink. Ironic on a day of remembrance of a tragedy.

The best best time in the mountains is approaching with longer days, shorter nights, and you could say better weather (that's a very notional thing). Winter isn't over and has a few throws at us yet though. late Feb/March is a great time to get the touring ski's out, or the free ski's to get exploring. The spring snowpack is often a granular corn and much les avalanche prone too. But as we all know we can end up with big dumps, high winds and full winter conditions right up until May. Don't let you guard drop too early.

I am always banging on about avalanche risk as in a way it's my bread and butter as a Recco trainer and Ortovox retailer, also working with the great folk of Glencoe ski patrol on a mountain that has many interesting slopes. Being a three sided polygon the ski mountain always has an aspect that loads, and two of the aspects give great off piste itineries with the main one the best snow holding in Scotland. Spring snow days with good cover and folk are dropping off into the back and having fun or venturing over to Clachleathad and Creise.

Selling avalanche equipment and teaching avalanche rescue is very satisfying.  The courses I used to run were not really about rescue though, which is a misconception some seem to have. They are about awareness of the weather, causes of avalanches, how to avoid them through planning, thinking about group dynamics and communication, and terrain interpretation. In this context the rescue and recovery scenarios are very much about acknowledging that we get things wrong and bad things happen. If you have not succeeded in avoiding the risk then by practicing with the rescue tools (beacon, shovel, probe) in realistic scenarios you can reduce the consequences. No enough emphasis is given on risk exposure and risk acceptance. Basically off piste skiing you are tugging the tail of a dragon. The more often you tug the more likely that one day it will flame you out. You can dig pits, look at crystals and do all that stuff but keep dropping 32° slopes on new snow days and one day your burnt.

It's dead easy to slip a red ski patrol jacket on, or become an armchair expert and be risk averse. But, most of us have learned more about the subject by our own errors, and most often if you work or play hard in the mountains with risk exposure, sadly with time your number will come up. That's the mountains and specifically when off piste skiing where the line between the best day of your life and the last day can be ephemeral. Unless folk accept that as a basic premise they might as well take up knitting. Skiing the steeps and the deeps can never be made 100% safe by ski patrollers, bombs or fences. It's down to you the skier, ski patroller (or mountaineer) to get out, and get experience away from your familiar areas of recreation or work, so you that you are forced to learn to make plans, decisions and terrain choices in unfamiliar places.  That's where you learn quickest.  You have to do this to stay alive.

There are no shortcuts. Only time in the mountains (a lifetime), respect for them (humility) and learning to read them (terrain) will keep you alive.  Oh! and a defecit of hubris helps.

The Tribe from where the Mountains Weep

Its such a stoke to see all the great winter mountain and climbing pictures from the many folk who have made Lochaber and in particular North Argyll/South Lochaber their home. Summer and Winter weather is such a big part of our moods and positivity. Its undoubtedly a hard place to live, even as someone born and bred here I can attest to that suffering from the darkness of depression at times. But living here teaches patience and gratitude for when the good days come. And my goodness didn't they come in full over the last Month if your a winter mountaineer and ski tourer. So many folk out on the mountains having fun and enjoying the epic conditions. Fantastic hill walks, snowboard adventures, ski touring exploration and steep technical ice climbing.

The local mountain community has always had its dips and surges so its great to see it on the up and post Covid. In the past these good times were beset by tragedy which set back folks enthusiasm when key movers and shakers were lost from the climbing community.  As a young man the best climbers in the area were by default in the rescue team, it just came with living here. Or they worked for Hamish's Glencoe School of Winter mountaineering (GSWM), Ian Cloughs Glencoe climbing School or were doing some private guiding work. Qualifications back then were just being a good safe mountaineer as there were few formal qualifications and no NGB's with the exception of the BMC and SMC as guardians of the tradition and ethics of UK mountaineering

My own early days were touched by folk who had lost their best friends in the Italian Climb tragedy on Ben Nevis when 4 locally based climbers were avalanched and only one survived. That survival all alone above the avalanched party by Jon Greive was remarkable and required much fortitude. Events like that knock a climbing community back, as its heart is temporarily gone. 

Italian Climb Avalanche Aftermath

The turn of the 1960's to 70's were over shadowed by this, even before more loss occurred. Tom Patey although not a local was a frequent visitor and often in the village at "Tigh Dearg" Ian and Nicki Clough's house, or putting out tunes with my uncle Charlie Campbell up at Clachaig.  As a boy I saw  a slide show on the Old Man of Hoy by Patey in Tigh Dearg the Cloughs house. I was a pal of one of Nicki Cloughs nephews who came up in the summer holidays where we swam in the river most days or fished. Little did I know I was rubbing shoulders with mountaineering legends when in having tea and buns.  They certainly inspired me as that's what got me hooked into climbing. Patey's death through lack of attention to safety on the "Maiden" a sea stack took away a climbing legend and character.  Although a great mountaineer he could be reckless and perhaps a bit cavalier. The mountains don't forgive complacency especially in the form of an old carabiner used to hold your trousers up and no system back up such as is taught nowadays. 

Then Ian Clough was killed on Chris Bonington's 1970 Annapurna South Face expedition right at the end near camp one when it was all over bar the shouting after Dougal Haston and Don Whillans summited and were back down safe. More than any other sad loss this wiped out the heart of the local climbing community and was keenly felt in the village as he was liked by all. 

Local lad Ronnie Rodgers on the Slabs

Ian Clough

Mountaineers are nothing if not resilient and addicted to their passion and of course new blood came in. Notably active at that time were the various instructors both part and full time with the winter climbing school. Spence, Fyffe, Nicholson, Knowles and MacInnes himself, as well as Wull Thompson and John Hardy when not cutting tree's down for a living. Dave Knowles was killed on the Eiger, hit by a rock kicked off by a rigger on the film Eiger Sanction starring Clint Eastwood. Dougal Haston was the safety advisor on the film but after this incident left the film set and Hamish MacInnes took over. The most memorable scene had Clint Eastwood doing his own stunt work falling down the North Face on an assembly of ladders tied together by Hamish. Dave Knowles loss again affected the local climbing community. He and his partner lived at Invercoe.  So as you can see the 1970's when I started climbing the climbing community had a bit of a cloud over it. Haston died in an avalanche in Leysin where he lived and worked. A film was made of him "Haston - A life in the mountains"

Robin Campbells fine eulogy to Dougal Haston "Cumha Dughall"

I met Dave Knowles in the Clachaig bar one afternoon after climbing Clachaig Gully for the umpteenth time (it was handy and has a pub at its foot) and he gave me some very good advice after I mentioned how the psychological barrier for local hard routes was so high with folk either trying to psyche you out with route info on how hard things were, or implying only legends got up them. "youth", he said, don't climb in Scotland. Get yourself down South away from all that bullshit and climb there then come back. It was good advice as most (but not all!) the local routes I later climbed required no superhuman powers. However superhuman or not, some routes winter and summer stood out for sheer boldness. Like most things the bullshit barrier is the hardest bit and its pure psychology. When on the sharp end you just get on with it.

Northumberland Winter Soloing. 30 route days where VS was XS

Hamish MacInnes in Mary Poppins mode on a film set

The late 70's early 1980's were much better with another generation coming through, of which I suppose I was one, as was Fiona. Ed Grindley was very active on rock, and living in the village. Paul Moores  had his local guide business and a thriving shop "Glencoe Guides and Gear" which was run mostly by his wife Ros. A proper climbers shop. George Reid was living locally and going through the Guides scheme and hungry for routes, and some of the old hands such as John Hardy, Alan Thomson, Ian Nicholson and Wull Thompson as well as many others were back active.  Mid week evening climbing in high summer, including mountain routes, and at weekends a big gang would meet up in the Ferry Bar and hatch plans to be out and about, sometimes en masse at a mountain crag. Visiting climbers joined the fray with regulars like Joe Brown and Mo Antoine in among it. The end of the day would see a mass exodus to Kingshouse for a session and late night, sometimes all night if the next day was to be wet. The 80's for me were the best as I was pretty motivated and strong and the scene was good. Not only for local based climbers, but Cubby and others were thumping out the routes, Glen Nevis was getting its renaissance and folk were busy doing alpine seasons, expeditions or just out cragging.  And there was a lot of film work either on major films or local outside broadcasts.  Even the 80's had its setbacks as a local climber lost his life on central grooves and I sorted it out.

Ed Grindley in somewhat relaxed mode
belaying me on the F.A of "Sisyphus"

The 90's onwards were a bit doldrums to start as families were coming into the world, folk moved on and the scene around the main meeting point the pub was more serious as drink driving laws were enforced and folk just went home after climbing. But there was still an active local scene from rescue team members and joint services climbing instructors. The untimely death of local lad Allan Findlay in a car accident in the Glen put a cloud over things. Also another local climber Ray Darker from Ballachulish tragically fell to his death on Skye. Sadly I was involved in a couple of rescues for folk who I knew, finding them both dead. Dougie on the North Face Aonach Dubh and Bish Macarra under the Lost valley bridge. Even recently the mountains have taken as well as given, with the loss of our cycling buddy Chris Bell on Bidean and a young local climber in Deep Cut Chimney. I am not sure you should ever get over these things but somehow mountaineering communities develop a resilience to them and a personal firewall and you get through it. The Tibetan proverb "It is better to have lived one day as a Tiger than a thousand years as a sheep" has something in it. 

Davy Gunn on "Line Up" 1983

I took a total scunner a few years ago, and hated the mountains. Too much tragedy and loss looking back, and a feeling I had wasted my life on mountains and rescues. The superficial thrills of skiing and day shift of ski patrol were more social and a lot more fun. I hated climbing for a time, but through my sons enthusiasm keenness and ability I got back into rock climbing and now really enjoy it again, especially sport climbing, and I especially enjoy the craic with folks at the two local walls 3 Wise Monkeys and the Ice Factor. The staff there are all motivated and upbeat and get out as much as they can, and happy to chat with old has been's like myself. 

I have made many new friends in the climbing community. some new to the sport like Tim and Charlotte Parkin who's sheer joy at living in the mountains is infectious and who have taken to the sport like ducks to water. The ex ice factor team and great community of young and old who are happy for a ferociously over ambitious old git to climb with them is great.  And its great surprising the youngsters that old gits can still crush harder routes. Yesterday at 3wm I asked a group of teens to move from under the campus boards and one cheeky git snidely commented to his mate "he won't be on it long". They had no idea but soon twigged. I envy their lack of need for Ibuprofen though.

Yvon Chouinard. Glencoe and Ben Nevis have
always attracted folk from all over the world 

I mention these early times to folk as a bit of background history so folks to see what it was like here in the past.  With an expanding network of active folks in North Lorn and South Lochaber things are looking up. Many new folk have made the area their home specifically for the easy access to the outdoors. I call them new Scots. They are invested in living here, contribute to the community and love the mountains. Their enthusiasm be they beginner or expert is great to see, and I love seeing the social media pictures of folk having fun outdoors. More than anything its great to see a vibrant strong mountain community in the area again.  A day out at Arisaig or down at Oban sport crags is always sociable meeting folk, and Polldubh classics are appearing out of the bracken. Even the dusty old classics on E Buttress are giving folk fun again and in winter folk are doing that peculiar thing of "dry tooling" which we did back in the day with our Dachstein clad hands. Some are even climbing steep ice. Scary!

Skerry Champion 35m 6c+  "The Money Pit" Gallanach Oban. Moy on steroids!

Click the hyper links for more interesting background info. Click the pictures to enlarge

The future is so bright we need doggles!

Avalanche Victim Recovery Considerations Part 2

 Davy Gunn American Avalanche Association Pro Member, FIPS Avalanche Working Group and UK Recco Trainer

Learning to dig as a team
Students on an Avy Level 1 course at Glencoe Mountain

●      The definitive locating device is a transceiver. Carry one that's digital and has 3 antennas. And with charged batteries. New ones like the Diract Voice are good

●      The definitive location device is a probe. Carry one that's at least 240cm, preferably 270cm+ The Carbon 280+ pfa is a good one

●      The definitive airway device is a shovel. Carry one that's alu, has a good blade and can convert to a hoe if possible.  Ortovox Pro alu III is a good one

●      RECCO might not save your life but might save a rescuers as being searchable reduces time on scene and exposure to secondary avalanche. Given the longest Scottish survival is 27 hours it might also save your life. Be Searchable

●      Digging out a victim you should attempt to dig in toward the victims chest and head from the side, not above so as not to compress any air pocket. Dig in from below approximately the same distance down showing on your probe mark. If possible have more than one probe in place.

●      Take care when uncovering the mouth and nose and have an experienced avalanche rescuer assess Airway of the ABC's. If  your not experienced class it as open. Clear it of debris. Expose the chest and begin CPR as soon as is practicable. Data suggests starting CPR before complete extrication (if possible ) improves outcomes. Its also hard work so get other climbers and skiers on board to take turns if they offer help.

●      Avalanche Victims may have Trauma, they will also be Hypothermic. So all buried avalanche victims should have further heat loss prevented. Trauma and Hypothermia plus blood loss (contributing to Hypothermia) is a lethal triad.

●      Other victims in a multi burial may be very nearby, or under the first recovered victim. If many victims are buried some may survive for a very very long period due to air spaces among other bodies. A salad of transceiver distances can be confusing. Get as many probes in to make contacts as you can.

●      Multiple burials are resource hungry, messy, require leadership and discipline. Fail to practice these scenarios and its a shitstorm. Spread limited resources too wide and everyone might die. If limited person power get the first located victim out first and fast before moving on. You might at least save one.

Note: Pulse and Breathing may be very hard to detect. Not finding these vital signs does not mean that they are not present. You just may not be able to detect them. Many cases of survival are documented where CPR had been continuous for 5+ hours. Make it good CPR

If you start resuscitation, regardless of how long a victim had been under, you do not cease unless rescuers' lives are in danger or the decision is arrived at from a consensus of experienced avalanche rescuers and medical consensus that it's futile.

Chest compression's may be interrupted for a short time because of evacuation and rescue procedures but continuous unbroken CPR is the goal.

Do not swallow the myth that most Scottish avalanche victims die from trauma. Many undoubtedly do but we should focus on saving those that don't have catastrophic fatal injuries. There are no studies to prove the trauma myth, and plenty of stats from similar maritime snow packs where studies have been done to support that trauma isn't the only killer and only a smaller percentage. My own anecdotal experience is here: https://crankitupgear.blogspot.com/2016/12/triple-h-or-trauma-in-scottish.html

As a personal opinion this trauma fallacy could cost lives by giving the impression being searchable and companion rescue is a waste of time. Follow the international rescue commission guidance and you will not go wrong.

Important reading. Full Article:  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3080528/

Synopsis of Full article: https://earnyourturns.com/9079/avalanche-survival-time-reduced/

Prehospital core temperature measurement in a hostile environment will be unreliable. Unresponsive victims will often be about Swiss Staging HT3 level or more, and so Severely Hypothermic. Use the Swiss Staging scale to describe levels of hypothermia. Learn it. 

Final rescuer thoughts. Responsive survivors may not complain of injury as very cold, and unresponsive victims who maybe alive can be assumed to have occult trauma. Careful handling onto a vacuum matt immobilises the spine, closes the book of the pelvis, and prevents limb fractures from moving. A vac matt also provides good insulation. Better to use this as an SOP as its easy to miss an injury in an avalanche rescue and recovery

NO AVALANCHE OR HYPOTHERMIA VICTIM IS DEAD UNTIL THEY ARE WARM AND DEAD

Sport or Trad, its Rock

Pebble pulling on "Moy Bueno"

As an ageing "climber" it's really hard to improve. The only way is to look at your weaknesses and work hard on them and even then maybe you only hold off the decay not improve. Among these weaknesses are a reluctance to get injured - again.  My major injuries are mostly work related, overuse or similar.  Achilles tendon injury with a chainsaw, crushed lumbar vertebrae and pelvic injury from falling back and getting knocked out turning a huge log from the "cant-hook" breaking during the lumberjack years before using my brain to study and get out of the woods. Broken ankle on a rescue, collar bones from motor cycle and bike race crashing, concussion and neck injury from mountain biking, and a slipped disc (most painful of them all) from a shite core. None of these makes you want to take a ground fall and why I take a clip stick for some routes 

I had many good trad years ticking off many classics, almost all the hard rock routes, and a few of the extreme rock climbs. Many of the most memorable days were not on hard routes but good days with good people on classic routes. It's not good to be too hung up on grades although the old graded lists in SMC guidebooks and some routes reputations gave goals to train for, and an impetus to get better at it. Mostly trad was about a head game not always how physically strong you were. Many routes had an aura about them but very few deserved it.

Dunira "Georges Bush"

I came late to sport climbing. After years of being among other things, a paramedic, climbing instructor, ski instructor, ski patrol. I then took at job at Joint Services Mountain Training. A great place to work among enthusiastic mountaineers. Only I was burnt out, and for a long time climbing had a smaller place in my life. Eventually the lads at work got me back into it and with the opening of the ice factor I took an interest in training and getting back into climbing more seriously. Then came bike racing (again) and a bit of a swansong until 3 years ago when training on the local roads just became stupid. What to replace it with? I migrated into sport climbing and competitions. Mainly because Duncan my son was climbing very well and training hard and it rubbed off on me. I realised that with a modern approach and the "knowing how to train" from bike racing I could get right into it from an analytical point of view and see how an ageing and slightly worn body could adapt to training loads for climbing. Very quickly I realised that running and cycling took away from hard sport climbing if you wanted to improve.

Sanna Bay Bouldering

From just going to the wall to lead or top rope to get the endurance, I then found the single biggest  benefit was bouldering, and lots of it. Not the floppy bouldering of arsing around. Focused problem solving and identifying my physical weaknesses and working problems. Very quickly it was apparent that cycling had done me no favours and my hips were tight and my core weak. Sure, I could rock out 30 sit ups and plank a couple of minutes, but that's not the only core you need. Stretching, yoga. weights and a big variety of stuff was needed. And I continue to work on it. Also finger strength. I had always been told I had strong fingers. For trad maybe, for harder bouldering or sport not so. So a finger board and weights has sorted that out to some extent (and given a few chronic injuries!) "Lattice" testing and training gives the numbers to see how its going. Outside sport requires indoor training discipline. I often have "me" days where I go up to a wall specifically to do repeaters of easier routes with a weight belt for endurance, or nights where I target a few newly set hard routes and try and onsight them. I prefer onsighting 6c/7a to working 7b, but if a harder route inspires me, I am happy to work it. 

Lower Lednock "Black Magic"

Bouldering helps with the harder routes as it helps with seeing sequences and patterns and working out body positions. This helps when on the harder lead routes (IMHO). The wall in general also gives a carry over. We get such shite weather that the wall cushions the days or weeks between outdoor days as you are kept strong. I personally don't find it too bad going for a month with only indoors then going hard out. As long as you are pushing it hard leading indoors you retain the clipping technique, endurance, and can read the rock. Perhaps the only weakness is footwork but with conscious thought and quiet feet this can also be worked indoors.

So, sport climbing, bouldering and indoor climbing have been great for me. It provides a training purpose, goals, and a social with both young and old like minded folks. Many of us older climbers  struggle with illness as well. Mine relatively minor, but for others serious, and  the local wall or easily accessible sport crag keeps them climbing and involved with the tribe that is climbing. That's important for both physical and mental health and an additional benefit of sport crags. Black Rock, Dallens and Clach a Phrionnsa as three good local examples.

It could also be said that given the availability of local rock very few folks are putting the work into development and these venues mentioned would not be there without the graft of two or three locals. Black Rocks harder routes are still needing re bolted but I guess folks do not have the time or money to do this. Rannochan as well. Young Tom Ballard was ahead of the game. It would be good memorial to him to have all his local sport routes re equipped IMHO and I would happily put money into a bolt fund.

"Uncertain Emotions" Tunnel Wall Glencoe

Tom was ahead of his time in Lochaber, as was "Cubby" before him on the Tunnel Wall. Sport climbing was long shunned by the more traditional Scottish mountaineers. Bolt chopping and slagging was rife until relatively recently. I always found that both bizarre and hypocritical given climbing history. Many harder trad classics are only climbable at their grade and safe because pegs were banged in after technical ability wasn't up to it and only hammering the route into submission remained. Also, past legends were not averse to the odd rest, point of aid, or pre placed runner. Sport climbing is at least honest about being fun and about technical challenge. 

It's also a safer fun way to utilise areas where climbing most likely would not happen. It's also the entry point for many transitioning from inside to out. Many good sport climbers later go on to enjoy the adventure of trad routes, although most drop many grades until they get a feel for how to climb them safely. Sport climbing can't be ignored and is mainstream, and the old guard should embrace it and guide it in the right direction. There are acres of rock unsuitable for trad climbing in the honeypot areas such as Glencoe that could be developed, but folk are too scared to touch it in case the grey haired ghosts of climbing past come and revile them. The old masters need to embrace Sport and encourage appropriate development. Sporting a Kalymnos suntan and yet not supporting the same type of climbing in Scotland is just hypocrisy. Sport climbing is not apostasy, it's just another aspect of enjoying climbing rock. If folk need convincing, just look at how many youths and younger folk are having fun doing it. Scottish climbing is not all about the past, it's also about the future and Sport is part of it.

Yes we do still "trad" Ardnamurchan "Uisge"